Another GMRS radio install post? Sure!

[evgenyvasenev]

From the original post:
I decided to use slot 35 instead of slot 2 since it was listed as a spare. I tested the port with a volt meter to confirm the tap-a-fuse was in the correct orientation, that the port had power, and that power was turned on with a single push of the ignition and cut off when you turn off the vehicle. Note the MXT 275 wiring ships with a 5A fuse. I didn't use their wiring or fuses, but mimicked the 5A fuse in my install.

Thank you, missed it.

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[LSU Jonno]

Thank you, missed it.

Different fuses are powered via position 1 or when the engine is turned on. So you can choose how you want this to work based on which fuse port you choose to tap.

 

[evgenyvasenev]

Thanks! And I just read about not running the antenna coaxial cable along with the power cable. Is it true? Does it add a lot of interference?

 

[evgenyvasenev]

Different fuses are powered via position 1 or when the engine is turned on. So you can choose how you want this to work based on which fuse port you choose to tap.

Do you know where to get that info which fuse is powered via position 1? Both boxes?

 

[LSU Jonno]

Do you know where to get that info which fuse is powered via position 1? Both boxes?

I don't. You can kind of guess by looking up which equipment the fuses connect to. Ultimately you are going to want to buy a cheap multimeter to confirm. You'll want one to confirm how to put the tap-a-fuse in anyway. Those are directional.

Thanks! And I just read about not running the antenna coaxial cable along with the power cable. Is it true? Does it add a lot of interference?

Might as well not route them together if you can help it, but I wouldn't really worry about it. DC power can't really couple into a coax cable and mess with an RF signal, it would have to be really dirty power (which it might be). Crosstalk between wires is also a function of how long of a parallel run you have. 2-3 feet of parallel cable run is nothing.

 

[evgenyvasenev]

I don't. You can kind of guess by looking up which equipment the fuses connect to. Ultimately you are going to want to buy a cheap multimeter to confirm. You'll want one to confirm how to put the tap-a-fuse in anyway. Those are directional.



Might as well not route them together if you can help it, but I wouldn't really worry about it. DC power can't really couple into a coax cable and mess with an RF signal, it would have to be really dirty power (which it might be). Crosstalk between wires is also a function of how long of a parallel run you have. 2-3 feet of parallel cable run is nothing.

I am asking as I run them all together from the passenger side to the driver and through the firewall. It looks clean but today I read some people do the same, some people don't suggest to do it. So I am not sure keep it as is or figure out another way. I could't find another way through the firewall except that one.

 

[LSU Jonno]

I am asking as I run them all together from the passenger side to the driver and through the firewall. It looks clean but today I read some people do the same, some people don't suggest to do it. So I am not sure keep it as is or figure out another way. I could't find another way through the firewall except that one.

If you've already routed it together, I wouldn't redo it until you think you have a problem. Like I said, i'd be pretty surprised if you notice anything. Just curious why you chose to route your power through the firewall (to the battery?) instead of picking off in the fuse box inside the cabin. You can find power that's always active from there as well. Doesn't matter, it's all the same I guess.

 

[evgenyvasenev]

If you've already routed it together, I wouldn't redo it until you think you have a problem. Like I said, i'd be pretty surprised if you notice anything. Just curious why you chose to route your power through the firewall (to the battery?) instead of picking off in the fuse box inside the cabin. You can find power that's always active from there as well. Doesn't matter, it's all the same I guess.

I was thinking about wiring it directly to a battery, but now I am not sure anymore. So for now I have all my cables together and the power is outside and I am trying to find the best way to wire it.

Speaking of any interference I would prefer not to redo it, but it will be a problem, I would prefer to redo it now

 

[privateer35]

Hey guys,

This is my install process for the Midland MXT275. I went with the 275 over the 575 for a couple reasons:

1. Price - There's just too much gear to buy and not enough cash to go around
2. Power - I don't need it for my application. I've run 5W handheld units with crappy antennas inside my vehicle for years with no problems.
3. Heat - I was concerned about heat build up with my planned install location.

Hat tip to @Bo-Ronco and @SPITmadFIRE for their tutorials:
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/super-clean-gmrs-radio-install.42659/
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-interior-fuse-box-with-add-a-fuse-tap.32486/

I'm going to focus on where I deviated from their installs, or where I ran into problems. I knew I wanted to tap into "switched" (ignition position 1) power so that I wouldn't drain my battery if I forgot to power off my radio, ESPECIALLY if I forgot to power it off before disconnecting my mic. For those wondering the 275 draws 3 Watts when on but not transmitting. I also knew that I didn't want to tie up an Aux switch (only 1 in use currently, but plans for all 6). So that led me to @SPITmadFIRE's write up of tapping into the in-cabin fusebox.

I decided to use slot 35 instead of slot 2 since it was listed as a spare. I tested the port with a volt meter to confirm the tap-a-fuse was in the correct orientation, that the port had power, and that power was turned on with a single push of the ignition and cut off when you turn off the vehicle. Note the MXT 275 wiring ships with a 5A fuse. I didn't use their wiring or fuses, but mimicked the 5A fuse in my install.

For the antenna I went with the upgraded Midland Ghost antenna over the basic antenna. Again, I didn't feel like I needed the extra gain of the 6dB antenna, the Ghost is cheaper, and looks better than the basic antenna and 6dB antenna. (Had the basic antenna been "mountable" I'd probably have just rolled with it)

I mounted it on the driver's side @JcrOffroad Cowl bracket.

Once, the antenna and power were run, it was time to tackle the center console removal. I'll give another internet high five to @Bo-Ronco for not only finding this location but for apparantly getting the center console in a position to work in the area without removing the shifter handle. I'm not sure what kind of wizardry he possess to do this, but after 60 seconds of trying to manipulate the console around to put it in a workable area, I gave up and removed the handle.

If you want to do this yourself during your install there is one small harness to disconnect in the front of the handle, and then two small philips screws in the back (towards the engine bay).

One other note, I actually did use a panel popper to get the center console pull up started. I inserted between the armrest and cup holders.

With that out of the way, the install went pretty similar to @Bo-Ronco. I drilled out the center hole in the midland bracket and placed the radio in the same location as him. I used the same ethernet panel mount extender etc.

Finished product:

I knew I wanted a magnetic mounting solution, and the 67 Designs magmount G3 works great for this. I was worried that it wouldn't be strong enough to hold the heavy handset, but it's fine. I've got it attached to the 67 Designs bronco rail, but this is only temporary until Archtype Racing get's their act together and ships me my "D". Once that arrives I'll be relocating the G3 magmount to the D and my install will finally be complete!

Thanks for the nice write-up!

Question for you about the JCR bracket. Did you connect the ghost antenna with the wiring from the Midland radio kit? I have the kit that came with a ghost antenna. I'm looking at getting the JCR brackets. I'm unsure how the two connect when the bracket is used. Are you taking the gold metal end of the wire and pushing it through the bracket so it lays on top of the bracket? Hard to tell from the pics on the JCR website too.

 

[LSU Jonno]

Thanks for the nice write-up!

Question for you about the JCR bracket. Did you connect the ghost antenna with the wiring from the Midland radio kit? I have the kit that came with a ghost antenna. I'm looking at getting the JCR brackets. I'm unsure how the two connect when the bracket is used. Are you taking the gold metal end of the wire and pushing it through the bracket so it lays on top of the bracket? Hard to tell from the pics on the JCR website too.

frankly I don’t remember but I don’t think I had to purchase any extrahardware for that part. I’m out of town and can check for you on Friday. You might want to send me a DM to remind me tho

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