Any shortcuts for installing lift and levelling kits?

[Jhuff]

So I've installed my fair share of suspension components and know that the instructions usually contain steps that can be skipped or worked around, and I had a couple of questions for those who have done the installs:

1) Would auto-disconnecting the sway bar before shutdown prevent the need to unbolt the sway bar when dropping the strut a few inches? Or would this increase the jacking height too much for standard floor jacks (20" of lift)?

2) I've seen mixed opinions/instructions on whether the LCA needs to be unbolted when lowering the strut.

I'm assuming the idea is that leaving the LCA bolted runs the risk of slightly pulling the axle out when tilting the LCA further than designed... but a careful re-install should be able to reinsert it if so, I would think?

3) Any other shortcuts or issues I'm not seeing?

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[Jdyount]

I installed the RC leveling kit on my Bronco. I tried without un-bolting the sway bar first but the issue is you can't get the lower control arm low enough to get the coil-over out. It was kind of a pain anyway as the rubber bushings on the LCA kinda act like a spring. I had to hold it down and have my dad push the coil-over in.

Over all it wasn't a bad install though. The worst part was driving the bottom studs out for longer bolts.

 

[BroncoAZ]

I postulated in another thread about using a strut spring compressor to keep the coil compressed, allowing the spacers to be slipped in without completely removing the strut assembly. If it worked the spacer installation would be significantly faster. I haven’t tried this yet and could be completely wrong. I will make the disclaimer that it could be dangerous if the compressor tool slipped. The bottom studs look long enough that they may still need to be removed to get the spacer in, but it seems like hammering them out from below works based on an install video I saw.

 

[Jdyount]

I postulated in another thread about using a strut spring compressor to keep the coil compressed, allowing the spacers to be slipped in without completely removing the strut assembly. If it worked the spacer installation would be significantly faster. I haven’t tried this yet and could be completely wrong. I will make the disclaimer that it could be dangerous if the compressor tool slipped. The bottom studs look long enough that they may still need to be removed to get the spacer in, but it seems like hammering them out from below works based on an install video I saw.

Saving a few minutes isn't worth losing fingers.....

 

[Jhuff]

I postulated in another thread about using a strut spring compressor to keep the coil compressed, allowing the spacers to be slipped in without completely removing the strut assembly. If it worked the spacer installation would be significantly faster. I haven’t tried this yet and could be completely wrong. I will make the disclaimer that it could be dangerous if the compressor tool slipped. The bottom studs look long enough that they may still need to be removed to get the spacer in, but it seems like hammering them out from below works based on an install video I saw.

Interesting. The fabtech 1.5“ kit wants me to compress the springs already, just enough (60 degrees) to align the adaptor's holes. I have a nice set of compressors and will go as far as I feel comfortable, if a little space is all I need.

Saving a few minutes isn't worth losing fingers.....

I definitely agree on safety, and will make the judgement depending on what I see.

I think it will end up depending on the quality/type of compressor v clearance needed for the kit used. Might be safe for me and dangerous for some one else (or vice versa).

 

[ctandc]

Check out Stage 3's video



Dropping the lower arm looks a lot easier all the way around.

 

[Jdyount]

I definitely agree on safety, and will make the judgement depending on what I see.

I think it will end up depending on the quality/type of compressor v clearance needed for the kit used. Might be safe for me and dangerous for some one else (or vice versa).

Ya I see why they did that with the 1.5" kit, had to re-clock because the top studs weren't long enough. Sure is nice that they show you that step with their nice heavy duty spring compressor that costs 3 times what the spacer lift did...

With the RC 1" kit you can still use the factory top studs without having to re-clock so you don't have to compress the springs. On my F150 they just have you rotate the coil-over 180 degrees but with a reservoir shock you can't do that.

 

[dgorsett]

Interesting. The fabtech 1.5“ kit wants me to compress the springs already, just enough (60 degrees) to align the adaptor's holes. I have a nice set of compressors and will go as far as I feel comfortable, if a little space is all I need.



I definitely agree on safety, and will make the judgement depending on what I see.

I think it will end up depending on the quality/type of compressor v clearance needed for the kit used. Might be safe for me and dangerous for some one else (or vice versa).

"I definitely agree on safety, and will make the judgement depending on what I see" Thinking the same, can always bail and do a standard install. Keep me posted....

 

[BroncoAZ]

Seems like the newer strut compressor tools have pins to prevent it slipping off the coils. Much better than my old autozone ones from the 1990’s.

 

[Jhuff]

Seems like the newer strut compressor tools have pins to prevent it slipping off the coils. Much better than my old autozone ones from the 1990’s.

These are similar to what I have. Definitely a large step-up from those little threaded "claws" that used to be sold at the parts stores.

 

[M Redwood]

The spring compressors won't fit on when removing due to all the brackets. I tryed unsuccessfully to do this using the ones shown on this thread. It was also difficult but not impossible just by removing upper control arm and we did not take axle nuts off . If you do it that way try and remove lower coilover bolts as they really make it hard to get coilover out but they are very hard to remove. In my opinion. After doing a lift this way the video showing the removal of the lower control arm seems much easier. Also the rear lower coilover bolt is a mutha... 2 of us with a long handled pry bar struggled to get it off.. try and get it off with tires on as you will really put some force on the stability of jacks.. my 2 cents.

 

[iamcris]

 

[IwannaGOfast]

Seems like the newer strut compressor tools have pins to prevent it slipping off the coils. Much better than my old autozone ones from the 1990’s.

This is the style that I had rented for free from AutoZone many times. One time I happened to get a brand new set and decided to just keep them and forgo my deposit.

 

[BroncoAZ]

The spring compressors won't fit on when removing due to all the brackets. I tryed unsuccessfully to do this using the ones shown on this thread. It was also difficult but not impossible just by removing upper control arm and we did not take axle nuts off . If you do it that way try and remove lower coilover bolts as they really make it hard to get coilover out but they are very hard to remove. In my opinion. After doing a lift this way the video showing the removal of the lower control arm seems much easier. Also the rear lower coilover bolt is a mutha... 2 of us with a long handled pry bar struggled to get it off.. try and get it off with tires on as you will really put some force on the stability of jacks.. my 2 cents.

I wasn’t planning on removing the strut assembly, just getting enough room on top to slip the spacer in on top of the mounting studs. Do you think there would be enough room to do that if the strut were held at ride height and the suspension fully drooped? If the bottom studs were hammered out and replaced with bolts one should only need 3/4” or so to slip the bottom spacer in.

 

[ctandc]

That’s the issue though, getting those studs out. If you drop the lower control arm, you don’t need to remove the studs. How are you going to have room to get the studs out with the strut on the truck?

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