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Anyone planning on 2” factory lift kit from Ford Performance Parts for their Bronco?

kodiakisland

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I thing I havent seen much conversation on here about is true tire size. The 37 inch BFG's measure in around 35.5 inches. you start putting a true 37 on there like a Nitto Trail Grappler or a Toyo and a 2" lift might not be enough. I myself want to run a 37 inch trail grappler on a 4 door and see what it can do but we need some quality lift companies to make products for these vehicles and not just that Rough Country garbage.

The MOPAR factory 2" lift lifts the Rubicon around 2.75 inches when all is said and done. Like others have said though lifting IFS is completely different then lifting SFA. I can't wait to see what FORD and the aftermarket produces for these things...

PS we should band together and get rock slide engineering to makesome of their kick ass steps for Broncos haha.

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It's been mentioned quite a bit. The worst are the "32"s on the BD.
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Comadivine11

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I moved to 4.56 gears and the RPMs are higher than stock and the truck cruises up hills without shifting with 37s. Fuel economy is up to 13.5 which is higher than stock.RPMs on the 6.0L at 80MPH is 2,450RPM.

On a small 4 cylinder you may need 2,600-2,800 RPM to cruise at 80 with 37s.
How much did the re-gear cost you, if you don't mind me asking?
 

NCOBX

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How much did the re-gear cost you, if you don't mind me asking?
Combined with completely rebuilding both axles all seals and bearings in both and installing much harder bushings into the front axle I was at just under $2,500.

But I’ll add that’s for an H2 with a 14 bolt rear and 9.25in front ring gear those gears are bigger than the Broncos and certainly cost more to buy.

I imagine if you brought a fairly new Bronco in to have it regeared you would be closer to $1,800 or so. Possibly less.
 

Tdunn033169

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I was thinking of the 2" factory lift and going with the 17 x 8.5 35 option (non sasquatch) on the base. Which I assume you need the wider fender flares for but they don't list that as an option for the base. Need to compare the cost to the squatch pkg though.
 

1lostCDN

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Combined with completely rebuilding both axles all seals and bearings in both and installing much harder bushings into the front axle I was at just under $2,500.

But I’ll add that’s for an H2 with a 14 bolt rear and 9.25in front ring gear those gears are bigger than the Broncos and certainly cost more to buy.

I imagine if you brought a fairly new Bronco in to have it regeared you would be closer to $1,800 or so. Possibly less.

Regear kits for rubicons are around $1200. You would then add labor from there. And also due to this being ifs I'm pretty sure you have to completely remove the front axle center section to regear.
 

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NCOBX

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Regear kits for rubicons are around $1200. You would then add labor from there. And also due to this being ifs I'm pretty sure you have to completely remove the front axle center section to regear.
That is correct, the IFS adds time not seen on the solid front axles.

It is what it is.

I have my invoice out in my truck, I would need to check it to see the breakdown of parts/labor.
 

NCOBX

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Regear kits for rubicons are around $1200. You would then add labor from there. And also due to this being ifs I'm pretty sure you have to completely remove the front axle center section to regear.
Also iirc if you have essentially new axles they will not need a rebuild kit just the gears correct?

That’s big savings in itself.
 

NCOBX

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I was thinking of the 2" factory lift and going with the 17 x 8.5 35 option (non sasquatch) on the base. Which I assume you need the wider fender flares for but they don't list that as an option for the base. Need to compare the cost to the squatch pkg though.
If you go that route (particularly on the auto) I would highly recommend regearing to save your truck a lot of stress and not completely kill your performance and economy. The 3.73s are no friend going to 35s.
The 4.46 on the base manual would be better apt to handle the tires but you would still be wanting more.
 

1lostCDN

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Also iirc if you have essentially new axles they will not need a rebuild kit just the gears correct?

That’s big savings in itself.

Very true. I just know what the kits run cause I've looked before. I do know that some jeep guys are content running 37s with the factory 4.10s. We will have to wait and see if the broncos will even need to be regeared.
 

NCOBX

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Very true. I just know what the kits run cause I've looked before. I do know that some jeep guys are content running 37s with the factory 4.10s. We will have to wait and see if the broncos will even need to be regeared.
Yea I noticed that on the Jeep forums, most of the issue just seems to be losing higher gears. I suppose the issue isn’t as noticeable on 8 and 10 speeds as it is on older 4 and 6 speeds but regardless your still adding unnecessary drivetrain strain by remaining under geared. By nature of straining the system your hurting your fuel economy, long term reliability and crawl ratios.

I suppose it’s up to the individual but once you’ve regeared a vehicle and felt what a miracle the difference is, it’s hard to imagine going back to driving a vehicle that is under geared.
 

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Hkak45

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I ain’t no midget, side steps are for wusses.
Lol people tell me all the time I need steps on my F150... I do have 35’s and a 6 inch lift but still get in just fine. Just need a little hop up lol
 

Tdunn033169

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If you go that route (particularly on the auto) I would highly recommend regearing to save your truck a lot of stress and not completely kill your performance and economy. The 3.73s are no friend going to 35s.
The 4.46 on the base manual would be better apt to handle the tires but you would still be wanting more.
Good call- I hadn't thought of that. Planning in the stick but still might not want to go that big
 

Dads_bronze_bronco

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The nice thing about coilovers is they are usually fairly easy to replace yourself and for a small lift are usually all you need to do. At some point new control arms will be needed. I expect Bilstein to have their 6112s on the market for the Bronco as soon as it hits dealers lots.
The interesting thing about those 6112s is the snap ring ride height adjustment. I wonder if this is how Squatch gets the additional .6” in suspension height over the Bandlands—since the Bilsteins are the same—but loses .5” in articulation.

(Which would mean that snap ring is in there and non-Squatch Badlands can go up .6”.)
 

Phil_68w10

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I'm not 100% sure yet if I'll go with the squatch or not. Now knowing that there will be a 2in kit from Ford I may look into that, still kinda want to see what the aftermarket will look like though.
 

North7

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For anyone experienced in lifting other IFS trucks, should we expect Ford to publish guidelines for what is allowable on the axle angle so there is not undo stress put on the CV Joints, Camber Angle, etc? I assume we would want this information to know any aftermarket kit under consideration would not void our warranty?
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