Could a small neodymium magnet be glued near the steel ball? Not so close that it affects operation. Enough to stop the rattle. Just an idea.
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LMAO i'm seeing it too but trying really hard to ignore it...I'm like....are yall not reading or something???This. This this and this.
It's like reading a broken record of people who just won't take the time but want to participate. I get it to a degree if its been a long while in a reply but half of the time its on the same bloody page that the same thing has been covered.
Drive a person nutty.
So I actually thought about adding some of the black material from the Killmat to that ball, where it contacts the plastic cup. In my head I imagine that ball moves forward with hard stoppin which locks the belt (engages the teeth) but if I restrict that movement it'll either cause it too lock too much or not when it should, still not worth the risk.Could a small neodymium magnet be glued near the steel ball? Not so close that it affects operation. Enough to stop the rattle. Just an idea.
My eyes twitching over here reading a couple threads man.LMAO i'm seeing it too but trying really hard to ignore it...I'm like....are yall not reading or something???
I didn’t at first. But when I started working on the seatbelt I figured what the hell might as well pull it out and add as much as I can behind it. I think I added about two sheets worth of Killmat back there.Killmat is the way to go. I think i used 2.5 boxes in my JKU. I bought a box for the bronco when i made my sub enclosure. Speaking of, Id pull that B&O sub box out and mat behind it? if you havent already. I also would kill mat under the rear storage (middle plastic in middle.) and maybe contact points where the jack is. That may help.
Thanks I appreciate it! It wasn't hard at all, just time consuming really but just take your time and save all the scraps you cut, those will come in handy when you go to fill in small spots. After all this I still have one sheet left from the first box. I'll use the second box for the tailgate if it starts to rattle, not really wanting to do under the second row seats or doors, not really hearing much from them anyway.My eyes twitching over here reading a couple threads man.
Also... That kilmat job is spot on and beautiful. You're going to be my inspiration when I rip out my braptor interior when it arrives.
It was the exact opposite, the sound deadening did work on the seatbelt housing. I'm going to put one more sheet on the panel that covers the seatbelt housing and that'll be enough for me.Sounds like your stereo may not be turned up loud enough to cover the sound of the rattle.
Looks like you have already found the issue and put sound insulation on it with no luck. Can you get any closed cell foam in the plastic trim surrounding the seat belt mount?
You could swap to a non-retracting seat belt (old school style) or a racing harness.
Glad to know I'm not alone in my obsession with fixing rattles. Amazing story!great thread, thanks for sharing
I special ordered a loaded XLT Bronco in 1992. It had a rattle at speeds over 50mph that drove me insane. Dealer was zero help.
I had the entire interior stripped out except the driver’s seat and drove around with an extended length stethoscope attached to a 3’ rod. Friends and family thought I had lost it.
Took me months to figure out where the rattle was coming from.
a piece of hard plastic was loose inside the passenger side side-view mirror. Once the wind speed was high enough, that piece of plastic would fly around inside the mirror housing making enough noise to be heard inside the cabin.
The mirror housing could not be opened, replacing the electric mirror assembly solved the problem.
Not covered under the warranty, but at that point, I didn’t care anymore.
Did you try isolating or de-coupling the subwoofer enclosure from the metal body? I recently had to do that in a 4Runner. I replaced an old stock sub, the new sub sounded fine but there was a rattle coming from somewhere. I found the rattle to be the actual plastic sub woofer/amp enclosure was vibrating against the metal of the interior of the rear cargo area where it mounts. So I unbolted the housing and put Hushmat Quiet Tape under the tabs where the housing bolts to the body. Problem solved.It was the exact opposite, the sound deadening did work on the seatbelt housing. I'm going to put one more sheet on the panel that covers the seatbelt housing and that'll be enough for me.
I'll be installing a 12" on the tailgate eventually and from what others have said once they moved it to the rear the rattle went away, I'm assuming because the sub being mounted on the same panel as the seatbelt transfers a LOT of vibration to the internals.
I'm out of the loop on this, so not sure if you all have figured out this rattle source, but this is my biggest source of rattle, which I just fixed with some weather strip foam tape:So I knocked out the rear cargo area today, first time ever doing this but I think it came out pretty good. I’m only hearing two rattles now. One sounds like it’s behind the sub enclosure so I think I’m going to take the enclosure off tomorrow and add Killmat behind that, but the second one is the stupid passenger side seatbelt. I know a lot of other people were having the same problem, did anyone figure out how to fix it or are we just SOL?
That would definitely help, increasing the mass of those plastic panels will reduce the vibration. Its also a game of resonance regarding noise from the sub.@los7883 I haven’t had the interior panels off yet, wondering if you could apply Killmat to the inside surfaces of the plastic panels for an even higher resistance to buzzing and plastic noise?