Audio upgrade project - complete (2022 Bronco non B&O)

[jgauthier]

Hello everyone,

It took a while to get to it, and it also took a while to post. But I finally completed my audio upgrade project and I wanted to share the results.
Really appreciate the help from people on these forums. The videos, and just so many helpful resources out there.

This is a 2022 Bronco, non-B&O.

I decided to install this hardware:

Main components
Subwoofer: Kicker 48CWRT82
Kick panel speakers: Kicker 46CSC674
Pod and dash speakers: Kicker KSC40
T-Harness: PAC LPHFD31 LocPro Advanced T-Harness
Line out converter: Audio Control LC7i
Amplifier: Stinger SPX1000X5 5-channel 1000W

Other items used
Ford Bronco (2021+) Under Seat Amplifier Mounting Bracket
Fuse Taps
8 AWG Power wire
Inline fuse holders
FS OBD2 USB ForScan Adapter
Ferrules
80Amp fuse
Battery Lugs
14 & 16 AWG speaker wire
Butt connectors
Fiberglass electrical wire rod fish-kit


There are lots of "steps" missing because these are covered in so many videos (trim removal, etc). These are just the things I did specific to me.

I started in the back and removed all the rear panels to expose the area where the subwoofer will go.

Then I removed the doors

Followed by the seats

I removed all of the trim, handles, gloves box, followed by the center console

Photo from above

Not shown: I ran 8AWG power wires to the battery with an 80A fuse. This was to power the amplifier.
Likewise, I used a fusetap with a 1A fuse under the dash box to power the LOC.
The LOC turns on first, and then triggers the remote on input on the amplifier. There is also a 1A fuse on that line.



I'm wiring up the LOC here. Power through the panel, and then speakers under the mat through the center console.

Amplifier is in place, under the passenger seat.

LOC fully wired and mounted with the under seat bracket from Stinger. This one goes under the driver side.

This is kind of a "noisy" photo. But I am showing the speaker wires come up through to the dash. The are the light brown bundle.
These are the output of the T-harness, and is intercepted by the LOC/Amplifier.

Shot from the other side. The white bundle is to the "input" side of the T harness, which ultimately goes to the speakers.

Top view of both pieces wired up.

I built a custom made subwoofer box. Is it amazing? No. Does it work? Yes.

And then finally, I filled the hole with a 3D printed speaker mesh. Not sure how this will hold up with temperature fluctuations but so far so good.

I then followed multiple guides for tuning.
Since I have the LOC, I followed it's specific instructions for tuning the speaker gains. the amplifier itself, is at maybe 25% on its amplifier dials.

I also followed Audio Controls guide for bass restoration using their guides. This wasn't as cut and dry, and it took a bit of finess to get the sound where I wanted it.
There are 4 different ways to deal with bass settings and amplification. (the LOC has a level, threshold, and output dial, and the amp has it's own gain dial)


Then I got out FORscan and I set the following. I landed on these settings because this is what sounded the best to me. But willing to tweak more if people have other recommendations.



EQ Settings - ACM 727-01-02

xx00-xxxx-xxxx
Turns the EQ off (so no high pass filter on rear pods)


Speaker Configuration Settings - ACM 727-01-01
xx03-00xx-xxxx

This sets all the speakers to "Speaker"
There are a lot of options here and I did not try them all.

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[jqgil]

you did not consider sound deadening?

 

[jgauthier]

you did not consider sound deadening?

With regards to changing out the stock audio? No.

 

[jqgil]

Was thinking Dynamat or similar while you had the panels off.

 

[jgauthier]

Was thinking Dynamat or similar while you had the panels off.

I am going to fashion something to cut down road noise on long trips (like a padding or something) but I drive short trips mostly and it doesn't bother me much.

 

[jqgil]

thanks for your post!

 

[Squatch]

Thanks for all the pics!

If you printed it with PLA, it may be a problem right now depending on where you live. I think ASA would be the best option. Either way, the sound quality(coming through) is inversely proportional to the mass of a speaker grille.

Hello everyone,

It took a while to get to it, and it also took a while to post. But I finally completed my audio upgrade project and I wanted to share the results.
Really appreciate the help from people on these forums. The videos, and just so many helpful resources out there.

This is a 2022 Bronco, non-B&O.

I decided to install this hardware:

Main components
Subwoofer: Kicker 48CWRT82
Kick panel speakers: Kicker 46CSC674
Pod and dash speakers: Kicker KSC40
T-Harness: PAC LPHFD31 LocPro Advanced T-Harness
Line out converter: Audio Control LC7i
Amplifier: Stinger SPX1000X5 5-channel 1000W

Other items used
Ford Bronco (2021+) Under Seat Amplifier Mounting Bracket
Fuse Taps
8 AWG Power wire
Inline fuse holders
FS OBD2 USB ForScan Adapter
Ferrules
80Amp fuse
Battery Lugs
14 & 16 AWG speaker wire
Butt connectors
Fiberglass electrical wire rod fish-kit


There are lots of "steps" missing because these are covered in so many videos (trim removal, etc). These are just the things I did specific to me.

I started in the back and removed all the rear panels to expose the area where the subwoofer will go.

Then I removed the doors

Followed by the seats

I removed all of the trim, handles, gloves box, followed by the center console

Photo from above

Not shown: I ran 8AWG power wires to the battery with an 80A fuse. This was to power the amplifier.
Likewise, I used a fusetap with a 1A fuse under the dash box to power the LOC.
The LOC turns on first, and then triggers the remote on input on the amplifier. There is also a 1A fuse on that line.



I'm wiring up the LOC here. Power through the panel, and then speakers under the mat through the center console.

Amplifier is in place, under the passenger seat.

LOC fully wired and mounted with the under seat bracket from Stinger. This one goes under the driver side.

This is kind of a "noisy" photo. But I am showing the speaker wires come up through to the dash. The are the light brown bundle.
These are the output of the T-harness, and is intercepted by the LOC/Amplifier.

Shot from the other side. The white bundle is to the "input" side of the T harness, which ultimately goes to the speakers.

Top view of both pieces wired up.

I built a custom made subwoofer box. Is it amazing? No. Does it work? Yes.

And then finally, I filled the hole with a 3D printed speaker mesh. Not sure how this will hold up with temperature fluctuations but so far so good.

I then followed multiple guides for tuning.
Since I have the LOC, I followed it's specific instructions for tuning the speaker gains. the amplifier itself, is at maybe 25% on its amplifier dials.

I also followed Audio Controls guide for bass restoration using their guides. This wasn't as cut and dry, and it took a bit of finess to get the sound where I wanted it.
There are 4 different ways to deal with bass settings and amplification. (the LOC has a level, threshold, and output dial, and the amp has it's own gain dial)


Then I got out FORscan and I set the following. I landed on these settings because this is what sounded the best to me. But willing to tweak more if people have other recommendations.



EQ Settings - ACM 727-01-02

xx00-xxxx-xxxx
Turns the EQ off (so no high pass filter on rear pods)


Speaker Configuration Settings - ACM 727-01-01
xx03-00xx-xxxx

This sets all the speakers to "Speaker"
There are a lot of options here and I did not try them all.

 

[jgauthier]

Thanks for all the pics!

If you printed it with PLA, it may be a problem right now depending on where you live. I think ASA would be the best option. Either way, the sound quality(coming through) is inversely proportional to the mass of a speaker grille.

Yup, exactly. I did print it with ABS. Not shown (on the back of it) is a frame that holds it into place and gives it extra stability. It's very hot here on and off right now.

If it ends up warping, I will reprint with a material that is more durable for that type of thing. This was definitely a proof of concept print so I am not upset if it doesn't work out. (except for taking out the panel again which is time consuming)

 

[SROC3]

If those are still off.....the seats and stuff.....I would 100% do sound deadening. Its legit.

I did my doors and rear cargo area. That alone made a noticeable difference for me. I would highly recommend it. Cost me all of $34 (cause I only used half-ish the box). https://a.co/d/dSdV2on

 

[jgauthier]

@SROC3
Taking the panels off isn't really too hard. Did you cut this to shape and put it on the inside of the panels? (cutting around the clips, etc) ?

 

[PghBronco]

Hello everyone,

It took a while to get to it, and it also took a while to post. But I finally completed my audio upgrade project and I wanted to share the results.
Really appreciate the help from people on these forums. The videos, and just so many helpful resources out there.

This is a 2022 Bronco, non-B&O.

I decided to install this hardware:

Main components
Subwoofer: Kicker 48CWRT82
Kick panel speakers: Kicker 46CSC674
Pod and dash speakers: Kicker KSC40
T-Harness: PAC LPHFD31 LocPro Advanced T-Harness
Line out converter: Audio Control LC7i
Amplifier: Stinger SPX1000X5 5-channel 1000W

Other items used
Ford Bronco (2021+) Under Seat Amplifier Mounting Bracket
Fuse Taps
8 AWG Power wire
Inline fuse holders
FS OBD2 USB ForScan Adapter
Ferrules
80Amp fuse
Battery Lugs
14 & 16 AWG speaker wire
Butt connectors
Fiberglass electrical wire rod fish-kit


There are lots of "steps" missing because these are covered in so many videos (trim removal, etc). These are just the things I did specific to me.

I started in the back and removed all the rear panels to expose the area where the subwoofer will go.

Then I removed the doors

Followed by the seats

I removed all of the trim, handles, gloves box, followed by the center console

Photo from above

Not shown: I ran 8AWG power wires to the battery with an 80A fuse. This was to power the amplifier.
Likewise, I used a fusetap with a 1A fuse under the dash box to power the LOC.
The LOC turns on first, and then triggers the remote on input on the amplifier. There is also a 1A fuse on that line.



I'm wiring up the LOC here. Power through the panel, and then speakers under the mat through the center console.

Amplifier is in place, under the passenger seat.

LOC fully wired and mounted with the under seat bracket from Stinger. This one goes under the driver side.

This is kind of a "noisy" photo. But I am showing the speaker wires come up through to the dash. The are the light brown bundle.
These are the output of the T-harness, and is intercepted by the LOC/Amplifier.

Shot from the other side. The white bundle is to the "input" side of the T harness, which ultimately goes to the speakers.

Top view of both pieces wired up.

I built a custom made subwoofer box. Is it amazing? No. Does it work? Yes.

And then finally, I filled the hole with a 3D printed speaker mesh. Not sure how this will hold up with temperature fluctuations but so far so good.

I then followed multiple guides for tuning.
Since I have the LOC, I followed it's specific instructions for tuning the speaker gains. the amplifier itself, is at maybe 25% on its amplifier dials.

I also followed Audio Controls guide for bass restoration using their guides. This wasn't as cut and dry, and it took a bit of finess to get the sound where I wanted it.
There are 4 different ways to deal with bass settings and amplification. (the LOC has a level, threshold, and output dial, and the amp has it's own gain dial)


Then I got out FORscan and I set the following. I landed on these settings because this is what sounded the best to me. But willing to tweak more if people have other recommendations.



EQ Settings - ACM 727-01-02

xx00-xxxx-xxxx
Turns the EQ off (so no high pass filter on rear pods)


Speaker Configuration Settings - ACM 727-01-01
xx03-00xx-xxxx

This sets all the speakers to "Speaker"
There are a lot of options here and I did not try them all.

Looking at your box compared to my custom box, one issue i had was Cu-ft for the sub that i chose. The size are the same. Looking at yours, the box seems too small.

(1) I made a thing! Custom sub box build complete! | Bronco6G - 2021+ Ford Bronco & Bronco Raptor Forum, News, Blog & Owners Community

maybe after a little time when you do the killmat dig into it with a new box for more improved sound?

 

[jgauthier]

That is very impressive. I know when I made mine it wasn't optimal. But I had the scrap wood, and didn't have to buy anything. The bass coming from the back is good to my untrained years, and I am happy with it!

 

[nc-hiker]

Hello everyone,

It took a while to get to it, and it also took a while to post. But I finally completed my audio upgrade project and I wanted to share the results.
Really appreciate the help from people on these forums. The videos, and just so many helpful resources out there.

This is a 2022 Bronco, non-B&O.

I decided to install this hardware:

Main components
Subwoofer: Kicker 48CWRT82
Kick panel speakers: Kicker 46CSC674
Pod and dash speakers: Kicker KSC40
T-Harness: PAC LPHFD31 LocPro Advanced T-Harness
Line out converter: Audio Control LC7i
Amplifier: Stinger SPX1000X5 5-channel 1000W

Other items used
Ford Bronco (2021+) Under Seat Amplifier Mounting Bracket
Fuse Taps
8 AWG Power wire
Inline fuse holders
FS OBD2 USB ForScan Adapter
Ferrules
80Amp fuse
Battery Lugs
14 & 16 AWG speaker wire
Butt connectors
Fiberglass electrical wire rod fish-kit


There are lots of "steps" missing because these are covered in so many videos (trim removal, etc). These are just the things I did specific to me.

I started in the back and removed all the rear panels to expose the area where the subwoofer will go.

Then I removed the doors

Followed by the seats

I removed all of the trim, handles, gloves box, followed by the center console

Photo from above

Not shown: I ran 8AWG power wires to the battery with an 80A fuse. This was to power the amplifier.
Likewise, I used a fusetap with a 1A fuse under the dash box to power the LOC.
The LOC turns on first, and then triggers the remote on input on the amplifier. There is also a 1A fuse on that line.



I'm wiring up the LOC here. Power through the panel, and then speakers under the mat through the center console.

Amplifier is in place, under the passenger seat.

LOC fully wired and mounted with the under seat bracket from Stinger. This one goes under the driver side.

This is kind of a "noisy" photo. But I am showing the speaker wires come up through to the dash. The are the light brown bundle.
These are the output of the T-harness, and is intercepted by the LOC/Amplifier.

Shot from the other side. The white bundle is to the "input" side of the T harness, which ultimately goes to the speakers.

Top view of both pieces wired up.

I built a custom made subwoofer box. Is it amazing? No. Does it work? Yes.

And then finally, I filled the hole with a 3D printed speaker mesh. Not sure how this will hold up with temperature fluctuations but so far so good.

I then followed multiple guides for tuning.
Since I have the LOC, I followed it's specific instructions for tuning the speaker gains. the amplifier itself, is at maybe 25% on its amplifier dials.

I also followed Audio Controls guide for bass restoration using their guides. This wasn't as cut and dry, and it took a bit of finess to get the sound where I wanted it.
There are 4 different ways to deal with bass settings and amplification. (the LOC has a level, threshold, and output dial, and the amp has it's own gain dial)


Then I got out FORscan and I set the following. I landed on these settings because this is what sounded the best to me. But willing to tweak more if people have other recommendations.



EQ Settings - ACM 727-01-02

xx00-xxxx-xxxx
Turns the EQ off (so no high pass filter on rear pods)


Speaker Configuration Settings - ACM 727-01-01
xx03-00xx-xxxx

This sets all the speakers to "Speaker"
There are a lot of options here and I did not try them all.

How does it sound??

 

[jgauthier]

It sounds pretty great to me!

 

[mblur05]

I was wondering when someone was going to use one of the Stinger SPX Amps in the Bronco! They're so small and powerful they would fit perfectly!

The Stinger SPX 1000.5- 5 Channel Amp with the Stinger underseat mount is what I have been considering of upgrading to leaving the KickerKey200. I'm still on the fence of going with a DSP Amp instead or adding a separete DSP along with the Stinger SPX 5 channel amp like you did.

How do you like the Stinger SPX1000X5 5-channel so far?

Curious why you went with the LOCi7 instead of getting a DSP?

Did you add the LGD load generators from the speaker line input going to the LOCi7? The Bronco has the signal protection so those are something usually added unless the Amp or LOCi7 has that built into them like the KickerKey 200 does.

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