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rdass623

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As someone who is strongly considering upgrading the standard audio package, could Aux1 or even Aux2 be used to power an amplifier for a subwoofer (considering a 1000W sub would use about 11 amps)?
are you talking about a 1000 watt amp running on 110vac... because 1000 amps at 12vdc is going to use a lot than 11 amps...
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Wattage = Voltage * Amperage

To get 1000W of power from 11A of current you’d need at least a 91V circuit. If you’re powering a 1000W amp off of a 12V circuit you’ll draw over 83A. I say “at least” and “over” because this doesn’t account for efficiency or loss.
 

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As someone who is strongly considering upgrading the standard audio package, could Aux1 or even Aux2 be used to power an amplifier for a subwoofer (considering a 1000W sub would use about 11 amps)?
Run a separate relay
 

BadBroncoJ

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As someone who is strongly considering upgrading the standard audio package, could Aux1 or even Aux2 be used to power an amplifier for a subwoofer (considering a 1000W sub would use about 11 amps)?
You will definitely want to run the power (fused under the hood) directly to the amp and not through the switch. If the amp is only going to power the sub and you want to be able to turn it off, then run the remote wire through the switch.
 

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I was going through my digital manual and caught that the Aux switch ratings were different than what Bronco Nation had released previously. My apologizes if this has been covered already but I did not see it posted anywhere as I was looking for confirmation.

Previous info released by Bronco Nation:
switch guide.png



What the Manual shows (and I did confirm the fuse size matches):

revised aux ratings.PNG
As an electrician, I find it very odd that the wire sizes are given in mm², rather than in American Wire Gauge (AWG). That's not a specification you can find wire sold in anywhere in America, as far as I know. For any wire you'd buy anywhere here, it would be sold by AWG, or, for larger sizes (much larger than I expect you'd ever see in automotive applications), kcmils (thousands of circular mils).

1.5mm² would be between 15 and 16 AWG. 30 amps is about the capacity of 14 gauge copper, so the specifications given here are plausible.

.75mm² would be between 18 and 19 AWG, and .35mm² would be between 21 and 22 AWG.

My references don't give ampacities for wire smaller than 14 gauge.
 
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You will definitely want to run the power (fused under the hood) directly to the amp and not through the switch. If the amp is only going to power the sub and you want to be able to turn it off, then run the remote wire through the switch.
There was someone here recently that added a sub and amp to the B&O system, and used an AUX switch as the remote for the new amp, so they could turn the extra amp/sub on and off for extra bass on demand.
 

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Audio watts are not the same as power watts. The 1000 watt subwoofer rating is for how much the speaker can handle, not how much it draws.
 

Markkelly1965

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Do NOT wire a winch to any of these!!!
Wire a winch directly to the battery with 00 battery cables!
The Warn 12Klb winch on my F250 pulls 780 amps at Full Hoot.
wouldn’t the switch run to a solenoid that in turns powers the winch. Would not want the winch powered all the time.
 

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The Warn 12Klb winch on my F250 pulls 780 amps at Full Hoot.
As an electrician, I'm skeptical.

780 amps is a lot of current.

I very much doubt that there are any wires anywhere in your vehicle that are big enough to safely carry that much current. We're talking 600 kcmil wire, at least, probably bigger, depending on various conditions. We're talking wires bigger than an inch in diameter, to safely carry that much current.
 
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As someone who is strongly considering upgrading the standard audio package, could Aux1 or even Aux2 be used to power an amplifier for a subwoofer (considering a 1000W sub would use about 11 amps)?
Hi, I did a little quick electrical math - 1000 watts / 13.8 volts is about 78 amps. An amplifier is not a constant draw, but if you push it hard you could easily exceed 30 amps. (and - why would you go with a 1000 watt amp if you weren't going to push it once in a while?) Use switch 4, 5, or 6 to fire a relay to power the amp if you want to turn it on manually.
 

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A lot more amps than the raptor. Grrrr
 

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Good find.
Anyone know if the Aux switches can be installed by the dealer or a DIY?
Good luck you can remove the entire exterior then run new wires good for you.
 

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As an electrician, I'm skeptical.

780 amps is a lot of current.

I very much doubt that there are any wires anywhere in your vehicle that are big enough to safely carry that much current. We're talking 750 kcmil wire, at least, probably bigger, depending on various conditions. We're talking wires bigger than an inch in diameter, to safely carry that much current.
Usually you need to run a new #8 wire to power up a winch
 

_finack

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What's the deal with the non-powered circuits at the end of the OP?

Also, where is a good place to learn about this? I hear people recommending to not use the switches and wore directly to the battery with a separately added switch in some cases. For high power items like a winch I get it, but for other cases, why? What does it mean to use or not use a relay?

Clearly I am not an automotive electrician, but I don't want to have to pay someone else each time I want to add something.
 

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As an electrician, I'm skeptical.

780 amps is a lot of current.

I very much doubt that there are any wires anywhere in your vehicle that are big enough to safely carry that much current. We're talking 750 kcmil wire, at least, probably bigger, depending on various conditions. We're talking wires bigger than an inch in diameter, to safely carry that much current.
Usually you need to run a new #8 wire to power up a winch
Under the most ideal conditions, 8 AWG wire is good for up to 80 amps at most.

I wonder if @Sparkherd slipped a decimal point somewhere in claiming that his winch drew 780 amps. If he meant 78 amps, then it's plausible.
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