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Aux switches wiring

Natai

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This device requires a momentary contact input, so at a quick glance the auxiliary switches can’t be used directly to trigger it, otherwise it may continually activate if the auxiliary switch is left set on. You’d have to flick the switch on and then off (a manual momentary switch function) for this device to work properly.
Dammit. I misread that. Somehow read it to produce a momentary output from a continuous input. (Don't know how.)

Been searching for a simple plug & play module that would produce a momentary output from these aux switches.
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Used2jeep

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"That's a rhetorical question, one for Ford to mull."



It's a question to ponder, one to promote deep and meaningful thought; not so much be answered, but to make a point.
Deep Thought - "42"
 

BrentC

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Dammit. I misread that. Somehow read it to produce a momentary output from a continuous input. (Don't know how.)

Been searching for a simple plug & play module that would produce a momentary output from these aux switches.
There are very cheap micro PLCs out there now that could be used. You can configure any input/output combination with them. Might not make sense for just one requirement, though.
 

Natai

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Raptor911

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switchpro 9100



Okay I am wildly out of practice when it comes to wiring (and have virtually no experience adding that into the automotive realm). It occurs to me that some of the things people have thought about hooking up use some sort of momentary switch (horn, garage door opener), but that these aux switches are latching (and powered).

Could something like this be used to enable an aux switch to function as a momentary switch for these kinds of devices?
https://www.uhs-hardware.com/produc...module-w-relay-output?variant=31395707060291/
SLM-SA-026Q_2048x2048.jpg
 

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Natai

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@Raptor911 I've seen those, and they're cool and all. Just seems like serious overkill when all you want is to have a couple of factory aux switches to function as momentary switches.
 

Raptor911

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The link you posted earlier will work except that you really really have to know what you are doing.

Mess it up and you will do damage to your switches and all the associated and non-associated wiring.

Here's an example. There are some guys on the Raptor forum that need a 20amp switch BUT Ford only provided 15amps on switch 1 and 2. Instead of using a proper relay, they just swap out the 15am for a 20amp fuse.

So if 20amps is flowing through wires only rated for 15amps, the wires will melt and catch fire and destroy the whole bundle. So now you have to replace the entire wiring harness and the switch panel. Damage is well over 1k.

So the switchpro may be overkill but it is exactly that ... over built to protect your vehicle in extreme conditions.

@Raptor911 I've seen those, and they're cool and all. Just seems like serious overkill when all you want is to have a couple of factory aux switches to function as momentary switches.
 

WuNgUn

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Wait... I thought all the switches were sent to a set of relays? I wouldn't run ANY power thru those switches directly!
Hell, HID headlights are on relays and they only draw 35X2 watts (35 ÷ 12 is less than 3 amps)
 

Natai

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Wait... I thought all the switches were sent to a set of relays? I wouldn't run ANY power thru those switches directly!
Hell, HID headlights are on relays and they only draw 35X2 watts (35 ÷ 12 is less than 3 amps)
You are correct that there is no power flowing through the switches themselves. However, there will be power flowing through the wires in the engine bay (when the switches are On).
 

AcesandEights

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That's kind of the point though, that the wiring through the firewall is all small gauge and not consistent with the switches; therefore relay.
 

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Raptor911

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I ran all my lights through the switches with no relays on my 2013 Raptor with no issues. You just have to be very AWARE how many amps you need. In the pic below, I have a 20" led light bar (under the light cannons) that was no issue on switch 1 which was rated at 15amps on the gen1 Raptor.

Ford Bronco Aux switches wiring 1612318633844


Wait... I thought all the switches were sent to a set of relays? I wouldn't run ANY power thru those switches directly!
Hell, HID headlights are on relays and they only draw 35X2 watts (35 ÷ 12 is less than 3 amps)
 

rlynch356

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Thanks for the wiring diagrams.. I see what they did, and it makes sense. So the relays are pretty low power which would still need a another really to power any high consumption add ons - say a 40" Baja Designs Onyx 6+ light bar at 26.8 Amps,
 

Used2jeep

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