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NORCALGXP

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Thanks. I'm really happy with the SVC perch collars & how it rides / works. If Bilstein doesn't come out with the 8112's for our trucks , I don't think all do anything else to the suspension. I don't want to go any higher, most kits will net just about another 1" of travel. It doesn't rub on the trails. The 8112's are 60mm with external reservoirs vice the 43mm bodies with piggybacks but have the same end stop valving tech. I don't do high speed stuff & it just works as is. :cool:
Same here do not want go higher unless a achieve ground clearance Clarence.
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Bronkers

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Well I finished upgrading my axles, steering & installed SVC perch collars and learned a few things while doing so.

First the front axles are stubborn to get out. Never had a problem pounding axles out with a hand sledge & punch before but after a good 30 minutes of that I called up the local AutoZone & got a hub puller & 3-jaw puller. Hub puller didn't fit, but needed it anyway as it had the driver for the 3-jaw puller in that kit. Next I found that the axles are really soft. While the 3-jaw puller made short work of pulling the axles, the driver chewed into the axle centers pretty good. from the pictures below. Not a big issue but you can see why you do not want to use an impact wrench when removing or installing the hub nuts. Really should not shock hub bearing like that anyway ;).

Passenger side nut was messed up a little when removing and took extra effort to remove (Don't reuse axle nuts). If you carry spare axles on the trail, make sure to have a good 3-jaw puller with a hardened steel driver, not Harbor Freight pot metal jaw puller in your tool kit, it will strip out in no time. Those axles are stubborn.

IMG_0252.jpg


RJOBX's experience from a shop using an impact wrench
And I use to not like orange :unsure:. RCV's are nice :cool:
IMG_0248.jpg


Second, I installed the Bronco Buster Bushing & Stage 3 housing. Bushing went in easily enough. The stage 3 housing a bit more effort was needed. While the passenger side came off easy, the driver side did not seem like it was budging. Man getting that driver side bolt lose was nuts. It had me doubting my Dewalt DCF891B that is rated at 800 lbs. removal strength 😲. Out came the 24" breaker bar with a fat guy on the end of it. Well the Dewalt must have weakened it (Dewalt proved itself on the rear shock bolts) as I was able to break it fairly quickly & finish it with the impact gun. Next challenge was fighting with the just big enough" hose clamp that was in the kit. I must have spent 40 minutes fighting trying to get that to connect when it dawned on me I have a drawer full of those things :sneaky:. I was a little gassed & jug-headed at that time of the install so, if I tried again today it might have gone on there.
IMG_0249.jpg


I also added the Bronc Buster shock mount skids. The Dewalt pulled the bolts with out breaking a sweat & redeemed itself from the driver side steering rack bolt 🙏

IMG_0253.jpg


The perch collars were a straight forward install with little drama other than the last one in the rear was so fun I did it twice :sneaky: . Jug-headedness strikes again & I realized that I forgot to put the boot back on once it was installed in the truck
dunce.gif


Still waiting for the suspension to settle & my tires to come in, then it will be off to the alignment shop. Once home I will install the BroncBuster Tie rod braces.

IMG_0247.jpg
IMG_0250.jpg
Well done! Missed this first post...kind of stuff we need more of on b6g...

I didn't realize RCV had a kit yet...and don't see it on quick check of their website(?)
 

Docindahouze

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I like to look. Big tires on factory wheels always looks the best to me. I would have done the same. -Yeah-
 
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craq5

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Well I finished upgrading my axles, steering & installed SVC perch collars and learned a few things while doing so.

First the front axles are stubborn to get out. Never had a problem pounding axles out with a hand sledge & punch before but after a good 30 minutes of that I called up the local AutoZone & got a hub puller & 3-jaw puller. Hub puller didn't fit, but needed it anyway as it had the driver for the 3-jaw puller in that kit. Next I found that the axles are really soft. While the 3-jaw puller made short work of pulling the axles, the driver chewed into the axle centers pretty good. from the pictures below. Not a big issue but you can see why you do not want to use an impact wrench when removing or installing the hub nuts. Really should not shock hub bearing like that anyway ;).

Passenger side nut was messed up a little when removing and took extra effort to remove (Don't reuse axle nuts). If you carry spare axles on the trail, make sure to have a good 3-jaw puller with a hardened steel driver, not Harbor Freight pot metal jaw puller in your tool kit, it will strip out in no time. Those axles are stubborn.

IMG_0252.jpg


RJOBX's experience from a shop using an impact wrench
And I use to not like orange :unsure:. RCV's are nice :cool:
IMG_0248.jpg


Second, I installed the Bronco Buster Bushing & Stage 3 housing. Bushing went in easily enough. The stage 3 housing a bit more effort was needed. While the passenger side came off easy, the driver side did not seem like it was budging. Man getting that driver side bolt lose was nuts. It had me doubting my Dewalt DCF891B that is rated at 800 lbs. removal strength 😲. Out came the 24" breaker bar with a fat guy on the end of it. Well the Dewalt must have weakened it (Dewalt proved itself on the rear shock bolts) as I was able to break it fairly quickly & finish it with the impact gun. Next challenge was fighting with the just big enough" hose clamp that was in the kit. I must have spent 40 minutes fighting trying to get that to connect when it dawned on me I have a drawer full of those things :sneaky:. I was a little gassed & jug-headed at that time of the install so, if I tried again today it might have gone on there.
IMG_0249.jpg


I also added the Bronc Buster shock mount skids. The Dewalt pulled the bolts with out breaking a sweat & redeemed itself from the driver side steering rack bolt 🙏

IMG_0253.jpg


The perch collars were a straight forward install with little drama other than the last one in the rear was so fun I did it twice :sneaky: . Jug-headedness strikes again & I realized that I forgot to put the boot back on once it was installed in the truck
dunce.gif


Still waiting for the suspension to settle & my tires to come in, then it will be off to the alignment shop. Once home I will install the BroncBuster Tie rod braces.

IMG_0247.jpg
IMG_0250.jpg
Hi nice work. Any thoughts on the RCV axles? Does it seem like a worthwhile
upgrade from stock? Still looks like a pretty steep angle. Any clicks, cracks or noises in general from the axles when turning?
 
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Felix808

Felix808

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Well done! Missed this first post...kind of stuff we need more of on b6g...

I didn't realize RCV had a kit yet...and don't see it on quick check of their website(?)
Thanks.
Can't remember where I originally posted this, (probably suspension) but the Mods recently moved it & now it's getting a lot of reactions. I see it on the opening page now even though this was 3 months ago.

RCV had some clicking issues they were looking into & have apparently taken them down from the site last time I checked.
Mine are fine.

Hi nice work. Any thoughts on the RCV axles? Does it seem like a worthwhile
upgrade from stock? Still looks like a pretty steep angle. Any clicks, cracks or noises in general from the axles when turning?
Thanks.
Had a few straight line clicks in 4x4 at first but it's all gone away. I think it was just the snap ring settling.
I'm glad I went this route & they ended up being cheaper than any price I've seen on the Dana axles. YMMV :cool:
 

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Felix808

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For the price of the dana axles we could get custom non- Plunging 934s with 300m axles....what a better way to go.
Hmm not familiar. Do you have an educational link? I know the RVC's are 300M & friction free plunge.
 

BigMeatsBronco

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Hmm not familiar. Do you have an educational link? I know the RVC's are 300M & friction free plunge.
934s are stronger CVs that are widely available in both plunging and non plunging. They are superior because they are easily replaced (bolt on) and handle up to 40°. Standard race equiptment on MANY vehicles. They will require new outter micro stubs and a flanged center axle, but these points need to be addressed as well. For example, with any new HD CV axles, the new weak link is at the wheel end stub. The splines there are small, and need improvment too.

Anybody got a spline count on the outer CV ends???
 
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Felix808

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934s are stronger CVs that are widely available in both plunging and non plunging. They are superior because they are easily replaced (bolt on) and handle up to 40°. Standard race equiptment on MANY vehicles. They will require new outter micro stubs and a flanged center axle, but these points need to be addressed as well. For example, with any new HD CV axles, the new weak link is at the wheel end stub. The splines there are small, and need improvment too.

Anybody got a spline count on the outer CV ends???
Thanks for the info. Sounds a good bit further down the rabbit hole than I want/need to go. The RCV CV's are 300m as well & am sure will suit my needs.

I'll get the outer spline count this weekend.
 

xusarmy

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Felix808

Felix808

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Clubs
 
You should check this jack out:

https://www.autoliftproduction.com/en-us/

I have the UP&Down 3000, works like a champ, no hydraulics screw driven.
That looks like it would be a fun time pulling a transmission or anything else driveline related. And picking a 37" tire 3 feet off the ground just to check the brakes doesn't look like much fun either. :unsure: YMMV.
 
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