B&O sound system complete upgrade - Done ✅

[T Copp]

There’s a sale going on right now for the JL Audio speakers on Crutchfield. $20 off. Picked them up to start this project.

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[Panzer948]

Got it. A little harder than I would like to pull but it came off. Now just waiting for the speakers to replace the center and rear pods to get here.

Also, I had to cut the zip tie on the driver side dash speaker (sits below the speaker) to get the new speaker to seat properly. I saw this in one of the install videos but haven't seen many other people mention it.

Thinking if I add a sub in a new enclosure in the trunk, replacing the kick panel speakers will be a waste to replace since those seem to be the least impactful speaker to change out.

I am still stuck trying to figure out how to remove the center channel cover without damaging it. I also dont have the right tools with me to remove the accessory bolt. Do I really need to remove the accessory bolt area with the torx screws to just replace the speaker or can I attempt to pop this center channel cover out without removing it. Also, if there is a newer DIY on removing the center channel somwhere, that would be great. Trying to do it now while on vacation.

 

[Razorbak86]

I am still stuck trying to figure out how to remove the center channel cover without damaging it. I also dont have the right tools with me to remove the accessory bolt. Do I really need to remove the accessory bolt area with the torx screws to just replace the speaker or can I attempt to pop this center channel cover out without removing it. Also, if there is a newer DIY on removing the center channel somwhere, that would be great. Trying to do it now while on vacation.

How to Remove Center Speaker Trim Panel [DIY & Official Workshop Manual Instructions]

 

[Panzer948]

How to Remove Center Speaker Trim Panel [DIY & Official Workshop Manual Instructions]

Thanks guys, believe it or not, I was able to replace the speaker by only pulling it back from the windshield end and leaving it still attached to the accessory bolt. I used a flexible screwdriver head to remove the 2 bolts holding down the factory speaker. The only negative is I was pressed for time (wife and kid wanted to go to dinner) and didn't figure out a way to bolt in the new speaker. It simiply sits in the opening. I am hopoing as long as I dont drive upside down it will be okay...

 

[SolarWizard]

Is it possible to take a base system and make it work as good as this one does?

 

[Ksjrb03]

Thanks guys, believe it or not, I was able to replace the speaker by only pulling it back from the windshield end and leaving it still attached to the accessory bolt. I used a flexible screwdriver head to remove the 2 bolts holding down the factory speaker. The only negative is I was pressed for time (wife and kid wanted to go to dinner) and didn't figure out a way to bolt in the new speaker. It simiply sits in the opening. I am hopoing as long as I dont drive upside down it will be okay...

Why in the world would you do that? The accessory panel is two screws.

 

[Panzer948]

Why in the world would you do that? The accessory panel is two screws.

Cause i am at the beach on vacation without most of my tools is why.... what I did have wouldn't match the screws and I never found a DIY that said for sure it had to be removed until after I was done. I also literally did the entire swap, including the time to prep and read what I could while my wife was in the shower, as she expected we would be on our way when she was ready. After pulling back on the back end I noticed the gap you create would be just wide enough to slide speakers in and out so this became a non issue.

Not sure you know this (I see we have both been around since July 2020) but when I initially replaced all my speakers several months ago there was very little info on how to remove the center channel and many skipped it because they gave up. I know this through various PMs I received from my own DIY I did on my other speaker replacements. So take it easy on some of us that helped make it easier on these newer owners with the vast info that is now at our disposal.

My own DIY from last year: https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...nt-w-emphasis-on-6-kick-panel-speakers.35774/

 

[5DayBronco]

This is inspiring! As an audiophile I'm blown away with how bad the B & O system is, everything about it is bad especially at high volumes which is extremely disappointing.

 

[JeebusCripes]

I just listened to the upgraded B&O setup for the first time and wow is it garbage. Glad I found this thread.

 

[mdk77]

I started my overhaul of the B&O system a couple months ago, and finished buttoning it up this weekend. It’s been a long journey of trial and error, and parts returned or wasted, but I’m thrilled with the final results. I have contributed to many threads along the way, but wanted to consolidate it all into a completed build thread as I get many questions about what I’ve done.

I’ll start out with why I got started on this project. To put it bluntly, I think the B&O system is pretty bad for a “premium“ system. It’s pretty much lacking in every way, low power, muddy highs, boomy rattly bass, and really bad soundstage with most all of the sound coming from the windshield. The speakers are cheap, paper, and half of them are the same speakers used in the base system.

I would rate the system 4/10 stock, and 15/10 after upgrades. This rating is based solely on my expectations/experiences of a factory “premium” system with cost as a factor. From the factory it severely missed expectations, after upgrades it blows away my expectations, as it should. The sub kicks. I haven't had a system that can rattle the mirrors since high school. I won’t be rattling mirrors, but I could if I want

I will list the parts ”I” used. Wiring diagrams and shop manuals for removal/install are attached.

Parts

JL C1 4” - $99 pair x2
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699040/JL-Audio-C1-400x.html

JL C1 6.5” - $149 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699042/JL-Audio-C1-650x.html

Focal ACX 4” - $109 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX100/Focal-ACX-100.html

Kicker Comp R 8” 4ohm DVC sub - $89
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFHJZNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker Key 500.1 amp - $270
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084HLH77B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker wired remote bass control - $39
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D3TVFBX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

right angle extension wire for bass control knob - $11
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793KZYXD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

25’ 8guage copper amp wire - $25
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079RZF94M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8 gauge amp fuse/battery connector - $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZZZK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

8 gauge ring terminal for ground - $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747M3SYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4“ speaker wire harness adapter - x3 - $12.99 each pair
search Amazon

Kilmat sound deadening sheets - $35
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082Q2J2T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total - $979.97

Dash Speakers

There are three 4” speakers in the dash. I used JL C1 for all three. I originally tried Focal ACX, but found them very “bright”. I ended up using the Focals in the rear pods and the JLs in the dash. This combination works great, as the bright Focal pods allow more rear fill, that was canceled out having Focals in the dash as well. This combination makes huge improvements to the overall soundstage, actually having some rear fill is an amazing improvement. Don’t skip the center channel! It’s is the workhorse up front, especially if you use surround mode.

Replacing these speakers is pretty straightforward, remove trim panel, unbolt speaker, attach harness adapter, reinstall. Shop manual attached if you need it. I highly suggest a nice set of panel removal tools so you don’t scratch up the plastic. I tossed some kilmat underneath each speaker, trying to make the hollow space underneath more of a pocket.

The center channel is a little tricky, you need to remove a screw on each side of the “accessory ready” bolt, remove that, then you can remove the speaker cover panel.

Kick Panel

I used JL C1s here as well. Honestly a 2 way speaker is not needed here in the kick panels. The DSP/amp filters out highs, this is a place you could cheap out a bit If you want. The C1s came with a trim ring mounting adapter that worked great. Crutchfield also sent a Metra adapter that I did not use, and also sent a wiring harness adapter that I did use, both free. I used Kilmat behind these speakers as well. Removing the panels is easy enough, but it’s kind of an awkward spot to work in. There is a foam section below the speaker housing you will need to make a slit in and feed the wiring through. Button everything up with zip ties. Shop manual attached.

Rear Pod Speakers

As mentioned before I used Focal ACX back here. They work great to provide some much needed rear fill. These are the easiest speakers to replace. Pop the cover off by squeezing both sides and it will pop right off. Unscrew speaker, install wiring harness, reinstall. I filled the entire cavity with kilmat again. Shop manual attached.

Sub/Amp

This is where things got interesting. I first tried to just swap the sub speaker, and long story short that was a huge fail. I tried two different subs. A $300 Rockford P3 that popped and clicked, underpowered to say the least. A $19 Pyle sub worked, but wasn’t much if any improvement over the stock sub. I took a pause here as life got busy. Then got re-interested by @cmcbronco and his great thread on installing the B&O sub enclosure on a base system. Lots of great info here.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/

I ended up going with a Kicker Comp R 4 ohm DVC sub and Kicker key 500.1 amp. I wired the sub parallel to get 2 ohm at the amp. The beauty of this amp is you can use the speaker wires going to the factory sub as high level inputs. This will also work for the power on, so no need to find a trigger on circuit. I called Kicker and confirmed the sub wires coming from the factory amp will work for high level inputs, no line output converter needed. They said this is exactly what this amp was designed for.

The Comp R sub fits the factory enclosure great, but you need to pry the plastic trim ring off with a screwdriver. No modification needed to the enclosure with this sub. Shout out to @SCTWNB for the great mounting location for the amp, I wouldn’t of thought of this location myself. It’s mounted to the roll bar, snugged in there next to sub enclosure. It is a bit tricky, but take your time, mark your holes, drill some pilot holes. Use double sided mounting tape to hold it up for install and cushion it from the body. If you plan to use this location pay close attention to where i have it, any higher and the PATS antenna mounted on the quarter panel will interfere. A right angle adapter is needed for the remote volume wire, which I installed under the HVAC controls. Wire runs down the passenger side wire channel, up kick panel, behind glovebox.

I ran 8 gauge power wire across the cargo area behind rear seats, down floor wiring panels under door, up front kick panels, and through grommet in the firewall. Fused at battery, and connected to one of the spare spots Ford gave us. Need an M5 or M6 nut here, depending which you use. Ground is wired To the factory ground found right above sub. I cut the factory sub wires that are sealed in the grommet in sub enclosure, and connected them to the high level inputs on the amp. Cut off the RCA ends, and connected them with butt connectors, make sure you get polarity correct! Wiring drawing below. I drilled holes in the same grommet to run 14g speaker wire to the sub. Apologies for the lack of installation pics on most of this, I will grab some and update later if needed.

I ended up stuffing the enclosure with PolyFil. This really helped, the bass is less boomy, hits harder and tighter if that makes sense. I had to re-adjust my preferred settings afterwards, it makes a difference. Someone that doesn’t want to bother with a sub/amp should try adding polyfil to the oem sub. I bet it helps alot.

Rattle Battle

Anyone with the B&O system knows the sub is a rattle machine at higher volumes. I had the rear panels off no less than 5 times prior to upgrade finding and fixing rattles. I had my doubts if it could ever be rattle free with an aftermarket sub and amp. I am declaring 98% victory on rattles. For my everyday listening music and volumes it’s 100% victory.

I did so much fighting rattles it’s impossible to remember and list it all. My method was simple, play certain 90s gangsta rap songs with repeated bass frequencies on loop that generate rattle everytime. Loud. When neighbors were out that turned to bass frequency sweeps and loops I found online. Play loud and go around using your ears to pinpoint and your hands to feel and absorb. What I ended up with is Kilmat in the entire cargo area, 3 rolls of cloth tape wrapping wires, connectors, insulating behind pins, wiring under rear seats, etc. Used Kilmat to insulate behind most things touching the body. Suspect panel clips were replaced (and several broken). Be diligent in your battle and you can win!

Panel clips and part #s

Wiring drawing

Shop Manuals for removing trim

This is awesome. So I am using a Hoel wiring harness and ran power direct to the battery. I screwed down tight to terminals and the power wire provided has a fuse "in line". I have no power to the amp or sub. Any ideas as to why? Do I also need a fuse in the hood fuse box?

 

[Ksjrb03]

This is awesome. So I am using a Hoel wiring harness and ran power direct to the battery. I screwed down tight to terminals and the power wire provided has a fuse "in line". I have no power to the amp or sub. Any ideas as to why? Do I also need a fuse in the hood fuse box?

Where and how are you grounded?

 

[mdk77]

Where and how are you grounded?

Grounded to metal bar under passenger dash. Keep me honest though, does it have to be grounded for power to get to the amp?

 

[Ksjrb03]

Grounded to metal bar under passenger dash. Keep me honest though, does it have to be grounded for power to get to the amp?

Yes absolutely. Probably not a good ground point. Where is your amp installed?

 

[mdk77]

Yes absolutely. Probably not a good ground point. Where is your amp installed?

Under the dash using a a mount for the kicker key 200.4

 

[mdk77]

Yes absolutely. Probably not a good ground point. Where is your amp installed?

I moved the ground to another place behind the center console and the amp powered on! Thanks for the suggestion.

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