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Richterman

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@Ksjrb03 thank you for this thread. i just upgraded to the same speakers (minus the footwells) sounds great
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Very good read. I will look at upgrading after i take care of a few more other necessities.
 

Vigor

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This is such a great post. Thank You.

Did you have to make changes in forscann? I have the 7 speaker system with sub, the package just below the BnO package. I am not as technical as you when it comes to vehicles. The idea of taking something apart and not being able to put it back and/or breaking it terrifies me and im in IT, but software. Is it possible to get a better sounding system (that is worth it) by only changing the two front dash and two pods in the rear (these seem easy to get to and switch out) without forscan updates? The bottom kicker panels and the sub seem to hard to get to and work on. And it seems like the sub requires allot of additional wiring and a new amp. Every time I read through something like this I think, "that seems amazing but I can never get the kickers and sub done myself".
I feel the EXACT same way you do. But this thread has inspired confidence. Let us know how you make out
 

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I started my overhaul of the B&O system a couple months ago, and finished buttoning it up this weekend. It’s been a long journey of trial and error, and parts returned or wasted, but I’m thrilled with the final results. I have contributed to many threads along the way, but wanted to consolidate it all into a completed build thread as I get many questions about what I’ve done.

I’ll start out with why I got started on this project. To put it bluntly, I think the B&O system is pretty bad for a “premium“ system. It’s pretty much lacking in every way, low power, muddy highs, boomy rattly bass, and really bad soundstage with most all of the sound coming from the windshield. The speakers are cheap, paper, and half of them are the same speakers used in the base system.

FCB1F91B-B208-4A7F-8420-8109E06454D9.jpeg


I would rate the system 4/10 stock, and 15/10 after upgrades. This rating is based solely on my expectations/experiences of a factory “premium” system with cost as a factor. From the factory it severely missed expectations, after upgrades it blows away my expectations, as it should. The sub kicks. I haven't had a system that can rattle the mirrors since high school. I won’t be rattling mirrors, but I could if I want :cool:

I will list the parts ”I” used. Wiring diagrams and shop manuals for removal/install are attached.

Parts

JL C1 4” - $99 pair x2
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699040/JL-Audio-C1-400x.html

JL C1 6.5” - $149 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699042/JL-Audio-C1-650x.html

Focal ACX 4” - $109 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX100/Focal-ACX-100.html

Kicker Comp R 8” 4ohm DVC sub - $89
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFHJZNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker Key 500.1 amp - $270
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084HLH77B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker wired remote bass control - $39
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D3TVFBX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

right angle extension wire for bass control knob - $11
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793KZYXD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

25’ 8guage copper amp wire - $25
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079RZF94M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8 gauge amp fuse/battery connector - $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZZZK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

8 gauge ring terminal for ground - $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747M3SYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4“ speaker wire harness adapter - x3 - $12.99 each pair
search Amazon
1670B520-8B2E-4CF1-B261-B8D85BB9B963.jpeg



Kilmat sound deadening sheets - $35
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082Q2J2T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total - $979.97

Dash Speakers

There are three 4” speakers in the dash. I used JL C1 for all three. I originally tried Focal ACX, but found them very “bright”. I ended up using the Focals in the rear pods and the JLs in the dash. This combination works great, as the bright Focal pods allow more rear fill, that was canceled out having Focals in the dash as well. This combination makes huge improvements to the overall soundstage, actually having some rear fill is an amazing improvement. Don’t skip the center channel! It’s is the workhorse up front, especially if you use surround mode.

Replacing these speakers is pretty straightforward, remove trim panel, unbolt speaker, attach harness adapter, reinstall. Shop manual attached if you need it. I highly suggest a nice set of panel removal tools so you don’t scratch up the plastic. I tossed some kilmat underneath each speaker, trying to make the hollow space underneath more of a pocket.

6EB6069E-35F0-4188-8D19-D82628C69730.jpeg

3DB65EFD-E4B9-4443-9146-17359F8DE049.jpeg

789CC5B0-4F40-4FB0-B0D6-218BCF082B1A.jpeg



The center channel is a little tricky, you need to remove a screw on each side of the “accessory ready” bolt, remove that, then you can remove the speaker cover panel.

788548E7-EB84-4450-A00B-152CEE30B4B4.jpeg

73B6177C-30D6-44BC-9CCA-3F98B356B95C.jpeg


Kick Panel

I used JL C1s here as well. Honestly a 2 way speaker is not needed here in the kick panels. The DSP/amp filters out highs, this is a place you could cheap out a bit If you want. The C1s came with a trim ring mounting adapter that worked great. Crutchfield also sent a Metra adapter that I did not use, and also sent a wiring harness adapter that I did use, both free. I used Kilmat behind these speakers as well. Removing the panels is easy enough, but it’s kind of an awkward spot to work in. There is a foam section below the speaker housing you will need to make a slit in and feed the wiring through. Button everything up with zip ties. Shop manual attached.

2CF2282C-4AC8-41BB-827E-18F6963B2D83.jpeg

A2B60198-7BA9-4D82-8A8B-96121BB69AC5.jpeg

9C3C4F7B-BC22-4932-BAF9-80B868011766.jpeg


Rear Pod Speakers

As mentioned before I used Focal ACX back here. They work great to provide some much needed rear fill. These are the easiest speakers to replace. Pop the cover off by squeezing both sides and it will pop right off. Unscrew speaker, install wiring harness, reinstall. I filled the entire cavity with kilmat again. Shop manual attached.

453A1B23-4B0B-4BEA-8A61-1FC13CA1F04D.jpeg

CB2457E0-2E45-471C-B9C4-774F92A9A933.jpeg



Sub/Amp

This is where things got interesting. I first tried to just swap the sub speaker, and long story short that was a huge fail. I tried two different subs. A $300 Rockford P3 that popped and clicked, underpowered to say the least. A $19 Pyle sub worked, but wasn’t much if any improvement over the stock sub. I took a pause here as life got busy. Then got re-interested by @cmcbronco and his great thread on installing the B&O sub enclosure on a base system. Lots of great info here.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/

I ended up going with a Kicker Comp R 4 ohm DVC sub and Kicker key 500.1 amp. I wired the sub parallel to get 2 ohm at the amp. The beauty of this amp is you can use the speaker wires going to the factory sub as high level inputs. This will also work for the power on, so no need to find a trigger on circuit. I called Kicker and confirmed the sub wires coming from the factory amp will work for high level inputs, no line output converter needed. They said this is exactly what this amp was designed for.

The Comp R sub fits the factory enclosure great, but you need to pry the plastic trim ring off with a screwdriver. No modification needed to the enclosure with this sub. Shout out to @SCTWNB for the great mounting location for the amp, I wouldn’t of thought of this location myself. It’s mounted to the roll bar, snugged in there next to sub enclosure. It is a bit tricky, but take your time, mark your holes, drill some pilot holes. Use double sided mounting tape to hold it up for install and cushion it from the body. If you plan to use this location pay close attention to where i have it, any higher and the PATS antenna mounted on the quarter panel will interfere. A right angle adapter is needed for the remote volume wire, which I installed under the HVAC controls. Wire runs down the passenger side wire channel, up kick panel, behind glovebox.

2F409D2A-206D-4699-A809-D31E0E9E3B52.jpeg


I ran 8 gauge power wire across the cargo area behind rear seats, down floor wiring panels under door, up front kick panels, and through grommet in the firewall. Fused at battery, and connected to one of the spare spots Ford gave us. Need an M5 or M6 nut here, depending which you use. Ground is wired To the factory ground found right above sub. I cut the factory sub wires that are sealed in the grommet in sub enclosure, and connected them to the high level inputs on the amp. Cut off the RCA ends, and connected them with butt connectors, make sure you get polarity correct! Wiring drawing below. I drilled holes in the same grommet to run 14g speaker wire to the sub. Apologies for the lack of installation pics on most of this, I will grab some and update later if needed.

E1C1CC7A-D8AE-41C6-94BC-BF4CFABD6A9E.jpeg

341AC928-BA0A-4304-8E60-61A8DCC211F1.jpeg

B2A8257F-9DB3-49AC-9635-150D01E60BE2.jpeg

C5C95A97-5B46-45F5-B8CC-7EEAD7E4B019.jpeg


I ended up stuffing the enclosure with PolyFil. This really helped, the bass is less boomy, hits harder and tighter if that makes sense. I had to re-adjust my preferred settings afterwards, it makes a difference. Someone that doesn’t want to bother with a sub/amp should try adding polyfil to the oem sub. I bet it helps alot.

2233DC51-8D2C-454B-8549-E8955117920B.jpeg




Rattle Battle

Anyone with the B&O system knows the sub is a rattle machine at higher volumes. I had the rear panels off no less than 5 times prior to upgrade finding and fixing rattles. I had my doubts if it could ever be rattle free with an aftermarket sub and amp. I am declaring 98% victory on rattles. For my everyday listening music and volumes it’s 100% victory.

I did so much fighting rattles it’s impossible to remember and list it all. My method was simple, play certain 90s gangsta rap songs with repeated bass frequencies on loop that generate rattle everytime. Loud. When neighbors were out that turned to bass frequency sweeps and loops I found online. Play loud and go around using your ears to pinpoint and your hands to feel and absorb. What I ended up with is Kilmat in the entire cargo area, 3 rolls of cloth tape wrapping wires, connectors, insulating behind pins, wiring under rear seats, etc. Used Kilmat to insulate behind most things touching the body. Suspect panel clips were replaced (and several broken). Be diligent in your battle and you can win!

8E21CFC7-1C70-4899-9843-AFFA71995826.jpeg

CB3928B8-4A62-48ED-B19B-808ACE461E28.jpeg


Panel clips and part #s

B222F1AF-3BEF-41C5-ABDD-7C42038DC7D9.jpeg

26699692-752A-48A1-A836-B1476371555A.jpeg

F630E772-595D-4407-BF06-00B96DA70D51.jpeg

8F029899-9CD6-4E90-841B-07CDAD8F9E2F.jpeg



Wiring drawing

9FECE6C4-3926-46C0-ABAD-983AC0E79792.jpeg

06D39505-54BC-45BB-B31F-617775D85F52.jpeg

11/14/22 Edit to add modified drawing, showing wire changes color after the green connector
1668443137898.jpeg


Shop Manuals for removing trim
Having a bit of trouble with the center speaker. I can see it's a 6 sided screw. I thought one of the Ford provided tools would fit but 1) it's in such an awkward angle that I can't even verify if it fits or not and 2) it doesn't seem to fit!

Would you happen to know the size of the screw? I guess I can just buy a hex tool off Amazon as long as I know the size
The shop manual wasn't any help in that area
 

Richterman

Badlands
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Clubs
 
Having a bit of trouble with the center speaker. I can see it's a 6 sided screw. I thought one of the Ford provided tools would fit but 1) it's in such an awkward angle that I can't even verify if it fits or not and 2) it doesn't seem to fit!

Would you happen to know the size of the screw? I guess I can just buy a hex tool off Amazon as long as I know the size
The shop manual wasn't any help in that area
T20 I believe torx bit not a allen
 

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Ksjrb03

Ksjrb03

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Having a bit of trouble with the center speaker. I can see it's a 6 sided screw. I thought one of the Ford provided tools would fit but 1) it's in such an awkward angle that I can't even verify if it fits or not and 2) it doesn't seem to fit!

Would you happen to know the size of the screw? I guess I can just buy a hex tool off Amazon as long as I know the size
The shop manual wasn't any help in that area
Yes i believe T20 also. Definitely Torx. Needs to be at a bit of an angle to get it gripped.
 

DD214

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Yes i believe T20 also. Definitely Torx. Needs to be at a bit of an angle to get it gripped.
This, and a mirror will help to see the screw head. The ratchet or driver cannot be straight up but is closer to the windshield than the t20 so angled forward.
 

smonroe11

Badlands
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Clubs
 
I started my overhaul of the B&O system a couple months ago, and finished buttoning it up this weekend. It’s been a long journey of trial and error, and parts returned or wasted, but I’m thrilled with the final results. I have contributed to many threads along the way, but wanted to consolidate it all into a completed build thread as I get many questions about what I’ve done.

I’ll start out with why I got started on this project. To put it bluntly, I think the B&O system is pretty bad for a “premium“ system. It’s pretty much lacking in every way, low power, muddy highs, boomy rattly bass, and really bad soundstage with most all of the sound coming from the windshield. The speakers are cheap, paper, and half of them are the same speakers used in the base system.

FCB1F91B-B208-4A7F-8420-8109E06454D9.jpeg


I would rate the system 4/10 stock, and 15/10 after upgrades. This rating is based solely on my expectations/experiences of a factory “premium” system with cost as a factor. From the factory it severely missed expectations, after upgrades it blows away my expectations, as it should. The sub kicks. I haven't had a system that can rattle the mirrors since high school. I won’t be rattling mirrors, but I could if I want :cool:

I will list the parts ”I” used. Wiring diagrams and shop manuals for removal/install are attached.

Parts

JL C1 4” - $99 pair x2
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699040/JL-Audio-C1-400x.html

JL C1 6.5” - $149 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699042/JL-Audio-C1-650x.html

Focal ACX 4” - $109 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX100/Focal-ACX-100.html

Kicker Comp R 8” 4ohm DVC sub - $89
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFHJZNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker Key 500.1 amp - $270
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084HLH77B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker wired remote bass control - $39
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D3TVFBX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

right angle extension wire for bass control knob - $11
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793KZYXD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

25’ 8guage copper amp wire - $25
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079RZF94M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8 gauge amp fuse/battery connector - $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZZZK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

8 gauge ring terminal for ground - $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747M3SYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4“ speaker wire harness adapter - x3 - $12.99 each pair
search Amazon
1670B520-8B2E-4CF1-B261-B8D85BB9B963.jpeg



Kilmat sound deadening sheets - $35
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082Q2J2T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total - $979.97

Dash Speakers

There are three 4” speakers in the dash. I used JL C1 for all three. I originally tried Focal ACX, but found them very “bright”. I ended up using the Focals in the rear pods and the JLs in the dash. This combination works great, as the bright Focal pods allow more rear fill, that was canceled out having Focals in the dash as well. This combination makes huge improvements to the overall soundstage, actually having some rear fill is an amazing improvement. Don’t skip the center channel! It’s is the workhorse up front, especially if you use surround mode.

Replacing these speakers is pretty straightforward, remove trim panel, unbolt speaker, attach harness adapter, reinstall. Shop manual attached if you need it. I highly suggest a nice set of panel removal tools so you don’t scratch up the plastic. I tossed some kilmat underneath each speaker, trying to make the hollow space underneath more of a pocket.

6EB6069E-35F0-4188-8D19-D82628C69730.jpeg

3DB65EFD-E4B9-4443-9146-17359F8DE049.jpeg

789CC5B0-4F40-4FB0-B0D6-218BCF082B1A.jpeg



The center channel is a little tricky, you need to remove a screw on each side of the “accessory ready” bolt, remove that, then you can remove the speaker cover panel.

788548E7-EB84-4450-A00B-152CEE30B4B4.jpeg

73B6177C-30D6-44BC-9CCA-3F98B356B95C.jpeg


Kick Panel

I used JL C1s here as well. Honestly a 2 way speaker is not needed here in the kick panels. The DSP/amp filters out highs, this is a place you could cheap out a bit If you want. The C1s came with a trim ring mounting adapter that worked great. Crutchfield also sent a Metra adapter that I did not use, and also sent a wiring harness adapter that I did use, both free. I used Kilmat behind these speakers as well. Removing the panels is easy enough, but it’s kind of an awkward spot to work in. There is a foam section below the speaker housing you will need to make a slit in and feed the wiring through. Button everything up with zip ties. Shop manual attached.

2CF2282C-4AC8-41BB-827E-18F6963B2D83.jpeg

A2B60198-7BA9-4D82-8A8B-96121BB69AC5.jpeg

9C3C4F7B-BC22-4932-BAF9-80B868011766.jpeg


Rear Pod Speakers

As mentioned before I used Focal ACX back here. They work great to provide some much needed rear fill. These are the easiest speakers to replace. Pop the cover off by squeezing both sides and it will pop right off. Unscrew speaker, install wiring harness, reinstall. I filled the entire cavity with kilmat again. Shop manual attached.

453A1B23-4B0B-4BEA-8A61-1FC13CA1F04D.jpeg

CB2457E0-2E45-471C-B9C4-774F92A9A933.jpeg



Sub/Amp

This is where things got interesting. I first tried to just swap the sub speaker, and long story short that was a huge fail. I tried two different subs. A $300 Rockford P3 that popped and clicked, underpowered to say the least. A $19 Pyle sub worked, but wasn’t much if any improvement over the stock sub. I took a pause here as life got busy. Then got re-interested by @cmcbronco and his great thread on installing the B&O sub enclosure on a base system. Lots of great info here.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/

I ended up going with a Kicker Comp R 4 ohm DVC sub and Kicker key 500.1 amp. I wired the sub parallel to get 2 ohm at the amp. The beauty of this amp is you can use the speaker wires going to the factory sub as high level inputs. This will also work for the power on, so no need to find a trigger on circuit. I called Kicker and confirmed the sub wires coming from the factory amp will work for high level inputs, no line output converter needed. They said this is exactly what this amp was designed for.

The Comp R sub fits the factory enclosure great, but you need to pry the plastic trim ring off with a screwdriver. No modification needed to the enclosure with this sub. Shout out to @SCTWNB for the great mounting location for the amp, I wouldn’t of thought of this location myself. It’s mounted to the roll bar, snugged in there next to sub enclosure. It is a bit tricky, but take your time, mark your holes, drill some pilot holes. Use double sided mounting tape to hold it up for install and cushion it from the body. If you plan to use this location pay close attention to where i have it, any higher and the PATS antenna mounted on the quarter panel will interfere. A right angle adapter is needed for the remote volume wire, which I installed under the HVAC controls. Wire runs down the passenger side wire channel, up kick panel, behind glovebox.

2F409D2A-206D-4699-A809-D31E0E9E3B52.jpeg


I ran 8 gauge power wire across the cargo area behind rear seats, down floor wiring panels under door, up front kick panels, and through grommet in the firewall. Fused at battery, and connected to one of the spare spots Ford gave us. Need an M5 or M6 nut here, depending which you use. Ground is wired To the factory ground found right above sub. I cut the factory sub wires that are sealed in the grommet in sub enclosure, and connected them to the high level inputs on the amp. Cut off the RCA ends, and connected them with butt connectors, make sure you get polarity correct! Wiring drawing below. I drilled holes in the same grommet to run 14g speaker wire to the sub. Apologies for the lack of installation pics on most of this, I will grab some and update later if needed.

E1C1CC7A-D8AE-41C6-94BC-BF4CFABD6A9E.jpeg

341AC928-BA0A-4304-8E60-61A8DCC211F1.jpeg

B2A8257F-9DB3-49AC-9635-150D01E60BE2.jpeg

C5C95A97-5B46-45F5-B8CC-7EEAD7E4B019.jpeg


I ended up stuffing the enclosure with PolyFil. This really helped, the bass is less boomy, hits harder and tighter if that makes sense. I had to re-adjust my preferred settings afterwards, it makes a difference. Someone that doesn’t want to bother with a sub/amp should try adding polyfil to the oem sub. I bet it helps alot.

2233DC51-8D2C-454B-8549-E8955117920B.jpeg




Rattle Battle

Anyone with the B&O system knows the sub is a rattle machine at higher volumes. I had the rear panels off no less than 5 times prior to upgrade finding and fixing rattles. I had my doubts if it could ever be rattle free with an aftermarket sub and amp. I am declaring 98% victory on rattles. For my everyday listening music and volumes it’s 100% victory.

I did so much fighting rattles it’s impossible to remember and list it all. My method was simple, play certain 90s gangsta rap songs with repeated bass frequencies on loop that generate rattle everytime. Loud. When neighbors were out that turned to bass frequency sweeps and loops I found online. Play loud and go around using your ears to pinpoint and your hands to feel and absorb. What I ended up with is Kilmat in the entire cargo area, 3 rolls of cloth tape wrapping wires, connectors, insulating behind pins, wiring under rear seats, etc. Used Kilmat to insulate behind most things touching the body. Suspect panel clips were replaced (and several broken). Be diligent in your battle and you can win!

8E21CFC7-1C70-4899-9843-AFFA71995826.jpeg

CB3928B8-4A62-48ED-B19B-808ACE461E28.jpeg


Panel clips and part #s

B222F1AF-3BEF-41C5-ABDD-7C42038DC7D9.jpeg

26699692-752A-48A1-A836-B1476371555A.jpeg

F630E772-595D-4407-BF06-00B96DA70D51.jpeg

8F029899-9CD6-4E90-841B-07CDAD8F9E2F.jpeg



Wiring drawing

9FECE6C4-3926-46C0-ABAD-983AC0E79792.jpeg

06D39505-54BC-45BB-B31F-617775D85F52.jpeg

11/14/22 Edit to add modified drawing, showing wire changes color after the green connector
1668443137898.jpeg


Shop Manuals for removing trim
Is the kicker key amp 200.4 and kicker key amp 500.1 ok to use with the B&O system? Are 4 channels enough for all the speakers minus the sub? I have the plug-n-play harnesses for both from plugnplaykits.com.

I put Kicker 46CS44 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CC44/Kicker-46CSC44.html 4” in the front 3 speakers and back pods and Rockford Fosgate R165-S https://www.crutchfield.com/product/item/default.aspx?i=20646CC44 in the kick panels.

I’ve looked and can’t find this question asked…apologies if it has been.

TIA
 
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Ksjrb03

Ksjrb03

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Is the kicker key amp 200.4 and kicker key amp 500.1 ok to use with the B&O system? Are 4 channels enough for all the speakers minus the sub? I have the plug-n-play harnesses for both from plugnplaykits.com.

I put Kicker 46CS44 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646CC44/Kicker-46CSC44.html 4” in the front 3 speakers and back pods and Rockford Fosgate R165-S https://www.crutchfield.com/product/item/default.aspx?i=20646CC44 in the kick panels.

I’ve looked and can’t find this question asked…apologies if it has been.

TIA
Sorry I’m not familiar with the plug and play kits. I would reach out to them for support. I only used an additional 500.1 for the sub, and the factory amp is still in place.
 

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@Ksjrb03 the c1’s are on back order do you think the c2’s would fit? The website says neither the c1 or c2 would fit the bronco. Also if you had to do it over again would you do the JL all around instead of the focal?
 

splytsecond

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Thank you both
Hardware store here I come
I put my cellphone camera hovered above the screw and was able to get the visual I needed to line up the bit.

didn’t have a mirror handy so that’s what I used
 
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Ksjrb03

Ksjrb03

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@Ksjrb03 the c1’s are on back order do you think the c2’s would fit? The website says neither the c1 or c2 would fit the bronco. Also if you had to do it over again would you do the JL all around instead of the focal?
Sorry Im not sure on the C2s. I can say the C1 fits fine even though Crutchfield says they don't. Pics look similar.

As I talked about in the first post, I put the Focals in the back after testing different combinations, including C1s all around. I would not change a thing personally. But everyones ear is different.
 

Munshaw

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Hey guys, I just ordered most of the parts listed in the guide on the first post here, but I'm in Canada so I had to use different suppliers for a lot of it.

I just wanted to confirm that I don't need the shallow-mount kicker 8" sub for this? The regular depth sub fits fine? It doesn't appear the shallow one is spec.ed in the first post.

I have a 2021 Wildtrack with the B&O system.

Also, I see someone else posted yesterday in another thread that the B&O factory sub box needs heavy trimming to fit the 8" kicker sub? The first post in this thread talks about only popping off a trim ring and doesn't 'talk about trimming at all... Are there different B&O sub boxes depending on model year??

I have an order placed yesterday with Crutchfield Canada, so its probably not too late to change anything out at this point....

I'm second guessing.
 

Larsf

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@Ksjrb03 the c1’s are on back order do you think the c2’s would fit? The website says neither the c1 or c2 would fit the bronco. Also if you had to do it over again would you do the JL all around instead of the focal?
The C2s fit in the front. I have been very happy with C2s in that location. For the rears, I went with the Focal ICU 100 which has a switch to select the highs (flat or boosted). Those were a tight fit with the covers. The rear is a black hole for sound. Ksjrb03’s recommendation to use something bright back there is right on. The boosted highs were much better with those Focals. You probably could get away with infinities back there as a cheaper option.
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