B&O sound system complete upgrade - Done ✅

[TABadlands]

@Ksjrb03 Do you know if tweeters can be installed in the A-Pillars to replace the 6 1/2" kick panel speakers with component speakers? I don't have my Bronco yet, so I don't know if the A-Pillar trim is easily removed and how much room there is behind the trim? Seems like some JL C2650's would be a worthwhile upgrade. Thank you for all the great info you provided.

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[Ksjrb03]

@Ksjrb03 Do you know if tweeters can be installed in the A-Pillars to replace the 6 1/2" kick panel speakers with component speakers? I don't have my Bronco yet, so I don't know if the A-Pillar trim is easily removed and how much room there is behind the trim? Seems like some JL C2650's would be a worthwhile upgrade. Thank you for all the great info you provided.

No, for the same reason there isn’t handles on the A pillars. Airbags.

 

[TABadlands]

No, for the same reason there isn’t handles on the A pillars. Airbags.

Thanks! That sucks! Would be great to have tweezers in the A-Pillars.

 

[roofone2]

Wanted to thank the OP and all contributors for the helpful info in this thread and forum. In case it's useful info to anyone else, I wanted to share the upgraded setup I ended up going with in my B&O system:

• Dash: AudioFrog GS42s for all three speakers. I tried the JL C1-400s, but those sounded a little too harsh/bright (I guess) to me. I wanted to replace them with speakers that had fabric tweeters. (Note, they have a weird form-factor, so I did have to modify them to fit.) I also added 300Hz bass blockers to all three speakers. Were they absolutely necessary? No, but I thought they sounded better that way when paired with my new kick speakers....
• Kicks: Memphis MJP6 mids. These are loud enough with the factory amp due to (I think) their extra high 100 dB sensitivity. They are just as loud as the factory speakers and are clearer, but obviously don't output as full a range.
• Rears: Again with the AudioFrog GS42s with the 300 Hz bass blockers. I could have gone with cheaper here I'm sure, but I have a bit of OCD when it comes to things like that not matching.
• Sub: The ubiquitous Kicker CompRT 8" in the factory sub enclosure powered by the Kicker Key 500.1 amp. Amp is tucked away next to the enclosure. Added the volume control to the popular spot under the climate controls/just above the phone charger.
• Isolation and damping: I used a couple of boxes of KilMat 80mil just about everywhere in the back and used it to line every speaker enclosure. I used rubber washers on the sub enclosure bolts and used some cloth tape on every clip. I also added a moderate amount of polyfill to all of the speaker enclosures. Still unsure if the polyfill makes a difference, but I figured with all of that cheap plastic, it couldn't hurt.

System sounds good to me and rattles --with the rare exception -- are non-existent.

 

[Snowdogyyz]

Wanted to thank the OP and all contributors for the helpful info in this thread and forum. In case it's useful info to anyone else, I wanted to share the upgraded setup I ended up going with in my B&O system:

• Dash: AudioFrog GS42s for all three speakers. I tried the JL C1-400s, but those sounded a little too harsh/bright (I guess) to me. I wanted to replace them with speakers that had fabric tweeters. I did add 300Hz bass blockers to all three speakers. Were they absolutely necessary? No, but I thought they sounded better that way when paired with my new kick speakers....
• Kicks: Memphis MJP6 mids. These are loud enough with the factory amp due to (I think) their extra high 100 dB sensitivity. They are just as loud as the factory speakers and are clearer, but obviously don't output as full a range.
• Rears: Again with the AudioFrog GS42s with the 30 Hz bass blockers. I could have gone with cheaper here I'm sure, but I have a bit of OCD when it comes to things like that not matching.
• Sub: The ubiquitous Kicker CompRT 8" in the factory sub enclosure powered by the Kicker Key 500.1 amp. Amp is tucked away next to the enclosure. Added the volume control to the popular spot under the climate controls/just above the phone charger.
• Isolation and damping: I used a couple of boxes of KilMat 80mil just about everywhere in the back and used it to line every speaker enclosure. I used rubber washers on the sub enclosure bolts and used some cloth tape on every clip. I also added a moderate amount of polyfill to all of the speaker enclosures. Still unsure if the polyfill makes a difference, but I figured with all of that cheap plastic, it couldn't hurt.

System sounds good to me and rattles --with the rare exception -- are non-existent.

Do you feel like the head unit pushes the audio frogs enough? I thought about this route but worried those speakers needed more power.

 

[roofone2]

Do you feel like the head unit pushes the audio frogs enough? I thought about this route but worried those speakers needed more power.

I think so? They sound right and get plenty loud. With the engine off, a volume of 15 (half way) almost makes my ears hurt.

Note though, that the audiofrogs don’t fit easy and are hard to modify. They don’t have brackets you can snap off to fit, I had to cut off 2 of the holes and use washers with the screws. Not hard, but definitely ended up looking a little mangled.

 

[RFMETZ]

I have the Audiofrog GB 25's (midrange) and GB 10's (tweeter's) in the dash and GB 60's in the kick panels and it sounds phenominal. I went with a JL Audio VXi 800/8 amp though to power everything up front.

 

[Sword55]

wow and thank you for an amazing writeup!!! Just got my Wildtrak and not impressed with B&O upgrade system. will be doing some type of upgrade this summer...

 

[challenger17]

Here you go.

Howdy,
I am trying to install trailer tow wiring kit and the instructions reference a lot of workshop manual pages. I have attached the instructions showing the pages we need. Is there any way to get these? I called ford and they said they did not have access to that.
Thanks for any help.
Toby

 

[Ksjrb03]

Howdy,
I am trying to install trailer tow wiring kit and the instructions reference a lot of workshop manual pages. I have attached the instructions showing the pages we need. Is there any way to get these? I called ford and they said they did not have access to that.
Thanks for any help.
Toby

There are several ways to get the manual. You can purchase it online.

https://www.factoryrepairmanuals.co...ctory-service-manual-cd-original-shop-repair/

You can get access to the Ford service website for a few days (like $29) and download what you need. This is what I did, and trailer wiring was not something I spent any time downloading.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Home/SetCountry?returnUrl=https://www.motorcraftservice.com:1402/

There was also a post on here with a link to download the manual.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...wiring-diagrams-owners-manual-download.41803/

 

[challenger17]

Awesome... I will try these and than you very much!

 

[BRBlue]

I just ordered Hertz for all positions except the sub. That may be replaced at a later time.

Three pairs of these Hertz DCX 100.3 to fit the left, center, right dash, and rear roll bar pods.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301DCX1003/Hertz-DCX-100-3.html

One pair of these for the left and right front kick panels. Hertz K 170. I don't plan to use the component tweeters.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301K170/Hertz-K-170.html

I went with Hertz DCX 100.3 as well. Huge improvement but a tad bright and harsh in the highs. Probably because I essentially added 3 new tweeters with the center and rears and the DSP is therefore miscalibrated now. Still a big improvement.

I’m considering upgrading the kick panels next. Can you tell a difference with those? Is it worth it? I’ve read mixed reviews on upgrading the kick panels.

 

[PAULWESTSKI]

I went with Hertz DCX 100.3 as well. Huge improvement but a tad bright and harsh in the highs. Probably because I essentially added 3 new tweeters with the center and rears and the DSP is off now. Still a big improvement.

I’m considering upgrading the kick panels next. Can you tell a difference with those? Is it worth it? I’ve read mixed reviews on upgrading the kick panels.

They do sound better than the factory ones, if an amplifier was added to the kicks they would really punch. For me they are plenty loud enough with out the amplifier.

 

[PAULWESTSKI]

Anyone need rear interior panel clips ?
I bought some for just in case and never needed them.
For sale cost plus shipping.
Just PM me if you need them.

For a fellow Bronco 6G member $50.00 shipped to the lower 48 states

(10 pieces) Pin - Trim - Ford (-W721378-S300) $45.00

(16 pieces) Body D-Pillar Trim Panel Clip - Ford (-W718230-S300) $14.00

For a fellow Bronco 6G member $50.00 shipped to the lower 48 states

 

[Hossfire]

Wanted to thank the OP and all contributors for the helpful info in this thread and forum. In case it's useful info to anyone else, I wanted to share the upgraded setup I ended up going with in my B&O system:

• Dash: AudioFrog GS42s for all three speakers. I tried the JL C1-400s, but those sounded a little too harsh/bright (I guess) to me. I wanted to replace them with speakers that had fabric tweeters. (Note, they have a weird form-factor, so I did have to modify them to fit.) I also added 300Hz bass blockers to all three speakers. Were they absolutely necessary? No, but I thought they sounded better that way when paired with my new kick speakers....
• Kicks: Memphis MJP6 mids. These are loud enough with the factory amp due to (I think) their extra high 100 dB sensitivity. They are just as loud as the factory speakers and are clearer, but obviously don't output as full a range.
• Rears: Again with the AudioFrog GS42s with the 300 Hz bass blockers. I could have gone with cheaper here I'm sure, but I have a bit of OCD when it comes to things like that not matching.
• Sub: The ubiquitous Kicker CompRT 8" in the factory sub enclosure powered by the Kicker Key 500.1 amp. Amp is tucked away next to the enclosure. Added the volume control to the popular spot under the climate controls/just above the phone charger.
• Isolation and damping: I used a couple of boxes of KilMat 80mil just about everywhere in the back and used it to line every speaker enclosure. I used rubber washers on the sub enclosure bolts and used some cloth tape on every clip. I also added a moderate amount of polyfill to all of the speaker enclosures. Still unsure if the polyfill makes a difference, but I figured with all of that cheap plastic, it couldn't hurt.

System sounds good to me and rattles --with the rare exception -- are non-existent.

The Memphis MJP6 is a great idea! I would think that the B&O DSP would limit highs to the kicks, but we won't know until someone runs a decent test.

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