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jehines3

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This thread is amazing. Wow, times sure have changed since doing single din, adding a big amp and a pair of 18's in a ported box enclosure in the '90s.

Does anyone know the B&O Subwoofer specs in Max power and Ohms or what the B&O Amp was even capable of driving. Seems like it was a pretty low-power unit from the factory.
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I have no idea, but I can tell you the sub was laughable. It was such a pos with a tiny magnet that it would not stick to my lift post. Looked like the magnet was the same diameter as a d cell battery maybe a c cell! It is a dual voice coil….
 
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The stock amp has all 18g or maybe smaller wiring going in and out. That should tell you how much power it has.
 

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I finished the project over the weekend. Thank you very much. It was a great success. Tuning in the Key amp was interesting, but all in all, this turned out great for me. Thank you very much for putting all of this together and thank you for your time. BTW, did you wire your sub up in parallel or series? I wired mine in parallel...
Edasso. Do you have a 4 door or 2 door? I’m wondering if I have the space to hide the kicker 500.1 amp in my 2 door.
 

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Hoping for advice / help.

I’ve had a nightmare of a time with the Kicker amps. First issue was the 500.1 output for the bass knob was defective. Got a new amp and that works now. Also had a bad (loose) 60A fuse from the wiring. It would come on and work and then just stop. Tested the fuse and it looked good. Voltmeter the wire and it would work sometimes. Replaced the fuse and the new one is significantly tighter in the housing and now it works great.

Second issue is with the Kicker 200.4. No matter what I try the Test always fails with 6 beeps. It’s in the garage, not running, no air, windows up, mic in the right spot. Playing pink noise from a memory stick. It fails every time. Rears are disconnected, sub is disconnected. Everything is set to neutral. Surround off and turned to stereo. Both gains are set to zero. Kicker thought it was the mic and that also did not work with a new one. I can’t believe both of my Kicker Amps were factory defective.
Any advice before I go crazy with the issues?
 
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Ksjrb03

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Hoping for advice / help.

I’ve had a nightmare of a time with the Kicker amps. First issue was the 500.1 output for the bass knob was defective. Got a new amp and that works now. Also had a bad (loose) 60A fuse from the wiring. It would come on and work and then just stop. Tested the fuse and it looked good. Voltmeter the wire and it would work sometimes. Replaced the fuse and the new one is significantly tighter in the housing and now it works great.

Second issue is with the Kicker 200.4. No matter what I try the Test always fails with 6 beeps. It’s in the garage, not running, no air, windows up, mic in the right spot. Playing pink noise from a memory stick. It fails every time. Rears are disconnected, sub is disconnected. Everything is set to neutral. Surround off and turned to stereo. Both gains are set to zero. Kicker thought it was the mic and that also did not work with a new one. I can’t believe both of my Kicker Amps were factory defective.
Any advice before I go crazy with the issues?
Sorry to hear about your issues. I’ve been working with another member who might have a defective 500.1 as well. Interesting to hear you had one.

As far as the tuning of the 200.1, I have no experience with that. This build route for the B&O system does not use a 200.1. I would try posting in one of the base audio threads that use the 200.1 in their builds.
 
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Ok. So setup of the key amp was a little bit of a pain for me because I was too technical with the instructions. Here is a great video on how to set it up properly. Fast forward to 15 minutes or so.

The part that screwed me up was time holding the button and counting. Don’t count, just pay attention to the flashes. The gain screwed me up because the light will flash and it’s hard to figure out when it turns off, just make minor turn corrections down until it is off. The correct setting is not very high. I also found that you need to do both the gain and sweep in order and do both in order again if you screw up (I screwed up). None the less it works well when you get it correct.
 
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Ok. So setup of the key amp was a little bit of a pain for me because I was too technical with the instructions. Here is a great video on how to set it up properly. Fast forward to 15 minutes or so.

The part that screwed me up was time holding the button and counting. Don’t count, just pay attention to the flashes. The gain screwed me up because the light will flash and it’s hard to figure out when it turns off, just make minor turn corrections down until it is off. The correct setting is not very high. I also found that you need to do both the gain and sweep in order and do both in order again if you screw up (I screwed up). None the less it works well when you get it correct.
Everyone I’ve talked to has cranked the gain up a bit from where the tuning sets it I think it’s a bit too low also.
 

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Sorry to hear about your issues. I’ve been working with another member who might have a defective 500.1 as well. Interesting to hear you had one.

As far as the tuning of the 200.1, I have no experience with that. This build route for the B&O system does not use a 200.1. I would try posting in one of the base audio threads that use the 200.1 in their builds.
I finally figured it out. You cannot use the Kicker 200.4 with the B&O system and the plug n play harness kit. Joe was awesome and helped me over the phone. I should have called him first but I just ordered it thinking it would work. Interestingly when I messed with the gains, channel 1 did nothing, and channel 2 only cranked up the center speaker. So I took out the harness and the Kicker key 200.4. I’m running the same setup as OP with the 500.1 and Kicker sub in factory enclosure with all speakers replaced. JL up front in all 3 locations, Focals in rear pods, and Memphis Audio mpj6 in kick panels. Sounds awesome as OP has stated.

Some notes:
1. JL in center location is perfect. Sounds great and is not overpowering the highs.
2. I think Focals up front would be too much though.
3. Kick panel upgrade difference is minor and probably would have been fine to leave stock. Memphis 6.5” are sold as single units. Learned that one the hard way.
4. In order to go all in on the B&O system, you have to bypass the DSP and get the aftermarket unit plus a 6 channel amp to wire correctly. You’re looking at another $1,500 on top of the other upgrades. Call Joe at plugnplay and he can get you setup correctly. If you go this route, you need fronts that can handle more RMS. I think the sub would be too small at that point and you would need a bigger enclosure and woofer to match the upgraded system. This might be the call in the pros setup at that point.
5. Check the fuse on the wire coming off your battery as mine was undersized in the wire I got off Amazon from OP suggestion. Took me awhile to figure that one out. Replaced the fuse with a new one and it is more snug in the ends.
 
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Rick U

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Equipped with all the great information on this site I dove into my 2 door Badlands Lux. I’ve been hating the B&O since I took delivery. My gripe (besides all of the rattling panels) with the stock system is the fat, bloated and congested sound. After lots of trial and error I ended up replacing all dash, kicks, and rear pods with infinity reference speakers. I chose them mostly because of their high efficiency. Long story short, my best sound came after I removed the tweeter from the infinity in the center channel and used 200 hz @4 ohms bass blockers on all 3 dash speakers. This cleaned up all the bloated noise so much that the factory sub is somewhat impressive. I still want to do the kicker in the factory enclosure but this improvement is huge! Sounds great in stereo or surround. Anyone have advice on where I can stash a kicker 500.1 amp? The 2 door doesn’t have the space behind the roll bar and I was hoping to avoid the cargo storage area.

I wouldn’t be surprised if just adding the 200 hz blocker’s on all 3 factory dash speakers and replacing the rear pod speakers with coaxial’s of your choice would yield similar improvements.

Edit: I went back and tried the factory speakers with 200 hz blockers. No good. The infinity speakers just sound so much more authoritative.
 
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This is great. I have some focal acx speakers for the front dash on my kitchen table and just waiting for the harnesses from Amazon to get here to install them.

Do you think the front kick panel speakers are worth replacing? Since they don’t play highs, replacing with 2-ways is a waste. Curious if you noticed any improvement? I guess similar question for the rears?

I plan on swapping out the sun, but will probably have a custom enclosure built in the trunk with a quick disconnect to avoid the stock enclosure all together.
This is great. I have some focal acx speakers for the front dash on my kitchen table and just waiting for the harnesses from Amazon to get here to install them.

Do you think the front kick panel speakers are worth replacing? Since they don’t play highs, replacing with 2-ways is a waste. Curious if you noticed any improvement? I guess similar question for the rears?

I plan on swapping out the sun, but will probably have a custom enclosure built in the trunk with a quick disconnect to avoid the stock enclosure all together.
This was the only thing I upgraded so far with kicker ks 6.75", and still trying to decide what I want for the pods and dash. I honestly expected more of a difference, but its only been 2 days. I am starting to notice more vibration at my feet. If anything replace the dash and pods and then decide if you need a little more. I like the reviews on the JL's for the dash and focals for the rear, as OP did.
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