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B&O Sound System Upgrade Tip

ATLBronco75

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I Have the Lux package and the B&O system. Although I found it adequate I've done light modifications to the sound system in almost all of my vehicles so I couldn't leave well enough alone. If you aren't going to do a full upgrade including a new DSP consider my experience carefully.

I planned to upgrade the main 5 speakers that most people complain about. Front Left, Right and Center on the dashboard and the rear Speaker Pods. I also stuffed those 5 spots and the Sub with polyfill and added some foam to reduce rattles near the sub.

I used 2 Focal ACX (https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/.../performance/auditor-new/coaxial-kits/acx-100) speakers in the Right and Left Front channels and 3 Kicker KS4s (https://www.kicker.com/47KSC40) for the rear pods and center channel. Here is where I went wrong. The front Center channel doesn't seem to have a low pass filter on it. After installing a two way speaker with a tweeter I got tons of hiss and almost painful highs. This was super noticeable on Audio books when the reader would pronounce an S. I had to run the system in Stereo mode for a few weeks because the highs from the center channel were so annoying.

So just this weekend I replaced my center channel with a PRV Audio 4" Mid (https://prvaudio.com/products/4mr60-4/). The improvement is hard to overstate. It sounds radically better with a strong front center stage now. Almost all of the high end hiss is gone. Additionally this speaker is much louder and allows me to listen at a lower volume while still getting good mids.

If I could do it all over again I think I might even get 3 of these PRV speakers for the Center and Rear channels and use the Kickers in the Front side channels. The Kickers just sound better than the Focals to me and the PRVs produce huge sound at low volumes.

TLDR; Don't put a 2-way speaker in the center channel of the B&O system unless you are adding a DSP.
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2020FordRaptor

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I Have the Lux package and the B&O system. Although I found it adequate I've done light modifications to the sound system in almost all of my vehicles so I couldn't leave well enough alone. If you aren't going to do a full upgrade including a new DSP consider my experience carefully.

I planned to upgrade the main 5 speakers that most people complain about. Front Left, Right and Center on the dashboard and the rear Speaker Pods. I also stuffed those 5 spots and the Sub with polyfill and added some foam to reduce rattles near the sub.

I used 2 Focal ACX (https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/.../performance/auditor-new/coaxial-kits/acx-100) speakers in the Right and Left Front channels and 3 Kicker KS4s (https://www.kicker.com/47KSC40) for the rear pods and center channel. Here is where I went wrong. The front Center channel doesn't seem to have a low pass filter on it. After installing a two way speaker with a tweeter I got tons of hiss and almost painful highs. This was super noticeable on Audio books when the reader would pronounce an S. I had to run the system in Stereo mode for a few weeks because the highs from the center channel were so annoying.

So just this weekend I replaced my center channel with a PRV Audio 4" Mid (https://prvaudio.com/products/4mr60-4/). The improvement is hard to overstate. It sounds radically better with a strong front center stage now. Almost all of the high end hiss is gone. Additionally this speaker is much louder and allows me to listen at a lower volume while still getting good mids.

If I could do it all over again I think I might even get 3 of these PRV speakers for the Center and Rear channels and use the Kickers in the Front side channels. The Kickers just sound better than the Focals to me and the PRVs produce huge sound at low volumes.

TLDR; Don't put a 2-way speaker in the center channel of the B&O system unless you are adding a DSP.
Thanks for this! Will really help me out when our Wildtrak comes in.
 

CJ1064

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I think if you just used one of your Focals for the center you would of been good right? Crutchfield says there is an integrated, high-fidelity crossover. I also upgraded all 5 of my 4" speakers with Focal ACX 100s and I have been good to go. The only thing I have noticed is the sound from the Navigation is very muted.
 
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Following. Looking to do the same thing or something similar for my B&O speakers.
 
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ATLBronco75

ATLBronco75

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I think if you just used one of your Focals for the center you would of been good right? Crutchfield says there is an integrated, high-fidelity crossover. I also upgraded all 5 of my 4" speakers with Focal ACX 100s and I have been good to go. The only thing I have noticed is the sound from the Navigation is very muted.
Interesting. I moved the speakers around and felt it had the same problem. The center channel didn’t seem mixed for a tweeter.
 

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CJ1064

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Interesting. I moved the speakers around and felt it had the same problem. The center channel didn’t seem mixed for a tweeter.
I have to admit I don't listen to audio books or podcasts either and I have my EQ tuned down closer to flat. I do turn up the radio to about 15 and at 20 it screams with the Sub doing it's thing.

I also did the poly fil and kilmat into the open speaker cavities and I hooked up crossovers and tested 2 speakers before continuing on. It didn't seem to make a difference with the Focals for me so I just took them out.

BUT for those following, I do suggest changing out the middle speaker, it definitely is the workhorse in the system. The rear pods are just ehh. I would leave a rear pod stock and take the Focal and change out the middle if you don't want to have 1 extra speaker.
 
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ATLBronco75

ATLBronco75

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I have to admit I don't listen to audio books or podcasts either and I have my EQ tuned down closer to flat. I do turn up the radio to about 15 and at 20 it screams with the Sub doing it's thing.

I also did the poly fil and kilmat into the open speaker cavities and I hooked up crossovers and tested 2 speakers before continuing on. It didn't seem to make a difference with the Focals for me so I just took them out.

BUT for those following, I do suggest changing out the middle speaker, it definitely is the workhorse in the system. The rear pods are just ehh. I would leave a rear pod stock and take the Focal and change out the middle if you don't want to have 1 extra speaker.
Wait, but you're saying you used crossovers? I'm explicitly referring to only changing speakers.
 

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The easiest way to dramatically improve the sound is using a harness, but they are expensive ($600+) then adding and amp and new speakers.

I went the cheaper route and used a Kicker Key 200.4 spliced into the the factory harness before the factory DSP. I also added a Kicker Key 500.1 for a new sub. I'm a semi-audiophile and I am super happy with the results.

The Key's power (in active mode) Hertz components in the kick panel and dash and the 500.1 powers a 12" Kicker sub. The factory amp still powers the center channel which I replaced with a Focal 2-way - I have zero issues with distortion or hissing and the rear pods. I might as well disconnect and remove the rear pods though, you don't get anything form them and I don't really care about rear fill.

This system is night and day compared to B&O. Overall I spent about $1500 and did all the work myself.
 

CJ1064

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Wait, but you're saying you used crossovers? I'm explicitly referring to only changing speakers.
I tried out "bass blockers" which are essentially crossovers but they made zero difference to me so I took them off. But after reading 100s of pages on this forum and from my own experience I think if you use a more expensive speaker that already has built in crossovers you don't need bass blockers
Just to set a baseline go to this page and tell me the Highest Frequency that you can hear.
https://decibelhearing.com/hearing-loss-overview/high-frequency-hearing-loss/
12,000hz. can't hear 15k and up.
 

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teevan

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The easiest way to dramatically improve the sound is using a harness, but they are expensive ($600+) then adding and amp and new speakers.

I went the cheaper route and used a Kicker Key 200.4 spliced into the the factory harness before the factory DSP. I also added a Kicker Key 500.1 for a new sub. I'm a semi-audiophile and I am super happy with the results.

The Key's power (in active mode) Hertz components in the kick panel and dash and the 500.1 powers a 12" Kicker sub. The factory amp still powers the center channel which I replaced with a Focal 2-way - I have zero issues with distortion or hissing and the rear pods. I might as well disconnect and remove the rear pods though, you don't get anything form them and I don't really care about rear fill.

This system is night and day compared to B&O. Overall I spent about $1500 and did all the work myself.
I am by no means even close to an expert in this stuff, but I would have thought adding an amplifier before the DSP would not be a good idea?

I would also like to kick up my B&O a bit, and don't want to go nuts. So this idea is interesting, but didnt think you should send an amplified signal into the DSP, only coming out of it?
 

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I am by no means even close to an expert in this stuff, but I would have thought adding an amplifier before the DSP would not be a good idea?

I would also like to kick up my B&O a bit, and don't want to go nuts. So this idea is interesting, but didnt think you should send an amplified signal into the DSP, only coming out of it?
Yeah, I probably wasn't clear.

My setup:
Key 200.4 spliced in BEOFRE the factory DSP with inputs from front kick panel and dash speakers > running active mode Hertz components with 6.5 in kick panel and tweeters in dash. The 200.4 has a DSP built-in.
Factory DSP/amp is running the center dash speaker and rear pods
Key 500.1 gets it's input from the factory subwoofer wires and runs the 12" Kicker sub.

You are correct, Radio > DSP > Amp or in come cases, Radio > combined DSP/amp.
 

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I tried out "bass blockers" which are essentially crossovers but they made zero difference to me so I took them off. But after reading 100s of pages on this forum and from my own experience I think if you use a more expensive speaker that already has built in crossovers you don't need bass blockers

12,000hz. can't hear 15k and up.
They don't usually have a built in high pass, but some do. Think of them as stupidity protection, they certainly don't hurt.
 

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I Have the Lux package and the B&O system. Although I found it adequate I've done light modifications to the sound system in almost all of my vehicles so I couldn't leave well enough alone. If you aren't going to do a full upgrade including a new DSP consider my experience carefully.

I planned to upgrade the main 5 speakers that most people complain about. Front Left, Right and Center on the dashboard and the rear Speaker Pods. I also stuffed those 5 spots and the Sub with polyfill and added some foam to reduce rattles near the sub.

I used 2 Focal ACX (https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/.../performance/auditor-new/coaxial-kits/acx-100) speakers in the Right and Left Front channels and 3 Kicker KS4s (https://www.kicker.com/47KSC40) for the rear pods and center channel. Here is where I went wrong. The front Center channel doesn't seem to have a low pass filter on it. After installing a two way speaker with a tweeter I got tons of hiss and almost painful highs. This was super noticeable on Audio books when the reader would pronounce an S. I had to run the system in Stereo mode for a few weeks because the highs from the center channel were so annoying.

So just this weekend I replaced my center channel with a PRV Audio 4" Mid (https://prvaudio.com/products/4mr60-4/). The improvement is hard to overstate. It sounds radically better with a strong front center stage now. Almost all of the high end hiss is gone. Additionally this speaker is much louder and allows me to listen at a lower volume while still getting good mids.

If I could do it all over again I think I might even get 3 of these PRV speakers for the Center and Rear channels and use the Kickers in the Front side channels. The Kickers just sound better than the Focals to me and the PRVs produce huge sound at low volumes.

TLDR; Don't put a 2-way speaker in the center channel of the B&O system unless you are adding a DSP.

I didn't believe this at first. Based on all of the reviews from others, the center channel made one of the biggest differences on upgrades.

At first, I upgraded the four corners with the Kicker KSC speakers and I've been very happy with that, so far. Last night, I installed the center channel speaker (same speaker) and after listening to it for just a little bit today (stereo mode) it seems to almost overpower the corner speakers. I'm not sure I really like the way it feels like all of the music is coming so strong from the center of the dash. For all of the work put in to switch, I'm not sure that I won't go back to the stock speaker. Although, I really don't want to tear my dash apart again as those little metal clips just want to go everywhere.
 
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ATLBronco75

ATLBronco75

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I didn't believe this at first. Based on all of the reviews from others, the center channel made one of the biggest differences on upgrades.

At first, I upgraded the four corners with the Kicker KSC speakers and I've been very happy with that, so far. Last night, I installed the center channel speaker (same speaker) and after listening to it for just a little bit today (stereo mode) it seems to almost overpower the corner speakers. I'm not sure I really like the way it feels like all of the music is coming so strong from the center of the dash. For all of the work put in to switch, I'm not sure that I won't go back to the stock speaker. Although, I really don't want to tear my dash apart again as those little metal clips just want to go everywhere.
Thank you for making me feel less insane. I highly recommend the PRV speaker in my post. It's dirt cheap and still a much nicer voice coil than the stock center channel.

Free returns on Amazon if you decide that I'm nuts:
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