B&O Sound System Upgrade Tip

[WheresMyCar]

Tom,

I agree with your speaker set-up with the B&O factory Amp. This is a big difference!

I also had too much highs from the Dash speakers. I changed out to the PRV Audio Midrange in the Center Channel and this really cured the problem.

Kicker KSC-4" in the Front Corners
PRV 4MR60-4 in the Center Dash
Kicker KSC 6 3/4" In the Kick Panels and Mabett Rear Pods
8" kIcker Sub in the Factory Sub Box with Poly Fill

Adding Amps and a Matrix with DSP may sound better, but it's so much nicer than factory now, I may not go that route.

Thank you for your information and write up.

Tom,

I agree with your speaker set-up with the B&O factory Amp. This is a big difference!

I also had too much highs from the Dash speakers. I changed out to the PRV Audio Midrange in the Center Channel and this really cured the problem.

Kicker KSC-4" in the Front Corners
PRV 4MR60-4 in the Center Dash
Kicker KSC 6 3/4" In the Kick Panels and Mabett Rear Pods
8" kIcker Sub in the Factory Sub Box with Poly Fill

Adding Amps and a Matrix with DSP may sound better, but it's so much nicer than factory now, I may not go that route.

Thank you for your information and write up.

I just got the PRV 4” for the Center like you but I’m not sure how to mount it. Any suggestions? How did you do it?
Did you just screw in one side and cut the post on that and just attached to the post on the other? I see no harnesses you can buy to make this work. Maybe find a metal bracket and drill holes?

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[rguest3]

I just got the PRV 4” for the Center like you but I’m not sure how to mount it. Any suggestions? How did you do it?
Did you just screw in one side and cut the post on that and just attached to the post on the other? I see no harnesses you can buy to make this work. Maybe find a metal bracket and drill holes?

Remove the small plastic alignment pins. (Post as you called them)

Then install with the 2 factory screws.

 

[WheresMyCar]

Take off the small plastic alignment pins. Then screw down with 2 screws.

They just pop off? The speaker holes are still too short.
Ok cheap plastic just come off.

 

[WheresMyCar]

A tad short. But maybe it will work, did you install bass blockers?

 

[WheresMyCar]

Ok works, thanks
Bass blockers?

 

[rguest3]

A tad short. But maybe it will work, did you install bass blockers?

I did not install Bass Blockers.

Have you found a plug-n-play wire harness for your speakers?

 

[WheresMyCar]

I did not install Bass Blockers.

Have you found a plan-n-play wire harness for your speakers?

I have the harness for the 6.5 kick panel speakers but returned the kicker CS, didn’t like the sound, waiting on a Hertz woofer. Have two types of blockers, was going to try with each and without on the fronts.

 

[bradcd]

PRV also has a model 4MR60-NDY-4
https://www.amazon.com/PRV-AUDIO-Full-Range-Neodymium-4MR60-NDY-4/dp/B0C3YJ5S59

I swear I'm seeing Amazon say it's mid range and full range, probably just a bad listing description. Anyone know how this might compare to the already proven 4MR60-4, with or without bass blockers? It is definitely different in that it is low profile. If this is better quality though or offers more rounded sound then maybe it's a better drop in option.

 

[ATLBronco75]

PRV also has a model 4MR60-NDY-4
https://www.amazon.com/PRV-AUDIO-Full-Range-Neodymium-4MR60-NDY-4/dp/B0C3YJ5S59

I swear I'm seeing Amazon say it's mid range and full range, probably just a bad listing description. Anyone know how this might compare to the already proven 4MR60-4, with or without bass blockers? It is definitely different in that it is low profile. If this is better quality though or offers more rounded sound then maybe it's a better drop in option.

That's interesting. Right off the top that magnet is much smaller. Maybe Neodymium magnets don't need to be as big?

 

[MKZoom]

That's interesting. Right off the top that magnet is much smaller. Maybe Neodymium magnets don't need to be as big?

Neodymium creates a much much stronger magnetic field when compared to a same size ferrite magnet. that PRV has a very dubious frequency response claim, i would stay away.

 

[broncorik]

Hi folks! Trying to get some collective feedback on an amp question...I have BO system, and I swapped stock woofer for 8" Kicker DVC. Amp is Kicker 500.1. The dilemma is that when I turned it on, I got very little bass. I ran the wires to the Kicker pigtail per the wiring diagram, and I get about 4 volts from each of the four wires when stereo is at about 23/30. Kicker suggested selecting low input versus high, due to the voltage I was getting, and still very little bass. He then suggested swapping the positive and negative on either SW1 or SW2 in case they were out of phase, and low and behold when I pulled even ONE wire, from either SW1 or SW2 (positive or negative), I instantly got big bass. Confusion ensued... Kicker suggested splicing both SW positives together, and both SW negatives together, which I imagine in theory makes sense because the amp has only one positive and one negative output...but I also don't want to frag my stereo by splicing wires together willy-nilly. Thoughts? Suggestions? I believe there is a reason why the OEM DSP has a separate set of wires for SW1 and SW2?

 

[Broncofly]

I have the harness for the 6.5 kick panel speakers but returned the kicker CS, didn’t like the sound, waiting on a Hertz woofer. Have two types of blockers, was going to try with each and without on the fronts.

Wondering how the bass blockers worked and which ones you used?

 

[MKZoom]

Hi folks! Trying to get some collective feedback on an amp question...I have BO system, and I swapped stock woofer for 8" Kicker DVC. Amp is Kicker 500.1. The dilemma is that when I turned it on, I got very little bass. I ran the wires to the Kicker pigtail per the wiring diagram, and I get about 4 volts from each of the four wires when stereo is at about 23/30. Kicker suggested selecting low input versus high, due to the voltage I was getting, and still very little bass. He then suggested swapping the positive and negative on either SW1 or SW2 in case they were out of phase, and low and behold when I pulled even ONE wire, from either SW1 or SW2 (positive or negative), I instantly got big bass. Confusion ensued... Kicker suggested splicing both SW positives together, and both SW negatives together, which I imagine in theory makes sense because the amp has only one positive and one negative output...but I also don't want to frag my stereo by splicing wires together willy-nilly. Thoughts? Suggestions? I believe there is a reason why the OEM DSP has a separate set of wires for SW1 and SW2?

the OEM DSP is likely using two channels to drive the dual coil subwoofer. this would allow the sub to have double the power vs using a single channel.

 

[broncorik]

the OEM DSP is likely using two channels to drive the dual coil subwoofer. this would allow the sub to have double the power vs using a single channel.

Issue solved...I talked to the guy at Sounds Good and he set me straight. He said do NOT use the wires that feed the OEM sub because they have bass roll off. Instead, he set me up with a harness that plugs into the OEM feed for the front kick speakers and then directly into my specific amp (they make the harness for your application). Now I get the full signal. Whew! I have to back the gain way off now...or too much bass...

 

[MKZoom]

the front speakers likely have more rolloff than the sub.

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