B&O speakers and power whats under powered?

[Bucking_Will]

OK so I have been reading post after post for the past 2 days. This is what I have come up with since it doesn't seem to be anywhere.
B&O system
center speaker and rear pods controlled by head unit at 25 watts per speaker
front corner, kickers and sub controlled by B&O amp at 110 watts each except sub has 2 channels so 220 watts. ( B&O Bronco specs 6 channel 660 watts)

So now obviously changing the rear pods with any speaker would be severely underpowered.
Looks like changing every other speaker you should have enough power except if you want to go big on the sub.

So my question is why is there not much talk anywhere about adding power to the rear pods? I know @plugnplaykits has s solution but I haven't seen any reviews and if its worth it... I mean logic would say it is because that would give you 100 watts to those 2 and then every speaker in the Bronco would have 100 watts. But just trying to get some talk and or debate and or info.

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[5GENIDN]

A big part of the problem is the B&O DSP post processing is taking into account the crappy little speakers they are using. It is not the size that is the problem it is the motor structure. They use an overhung coil on an undersized magnet. They can produce a number of frequencies okay but do not ask them to reproduce multiple frequencies at the same time. The B&O processing accounts for this and tries to limit them. So... replacing the speakers will improve the reproduction you are still limited by the processing of the B&O trying to account for the crappy speakers you just replaced. If you really want to improve the sound you need to replace the B&O DSP and amp. Then and only then will you realize the potential of new speakers. I am personally going with the M0bridge... Do not have it yet but I have ordered it and new speakers.

 

[Bucking_Will]

A big part of the problem is the B&O DSP post processing is taking into account the crappy little speakers they are using. It is not the size that is the problem it is the motor structure. They use an overhung coil on an undersized magnet. They can produce a number of frequencies okay but do not ask them to reproduce multiple frequencies at the same time. The B&O processing accounts for this and tries to limit them. So... replacing the speakers will improve the reproduction you are still limited by the processing of the B&O trying to account for the crappy speakers you just replaced. If you really want to improve the sound you need to replace the B&O DSP and amp. Then and only then will you realize the potential of new speakers. I am personally going with the M0bridge... Do not have it yet but I have ordered it and new speakers.

But the B&O doesn't touch the pods or center speaker so wy is no one powering those.

 

[5GENIDN]

But the B&O doesn't touch the pods or center speaker so wy is no one powering those.

Well looking at the wiring diagram for the M0bridge... It appears to me they do. The only speaker run by the head unit (according to their wiring guide) is the center channel in the dash. the Left and right dash speakers are wired off the kicks. So when replacing the B&O with the M0bridge I have to run three sets of speaker wiring to the dash. The pod wiring is already at the B&O so all I have to do is transfer those to the new amp. /That is according to M0bridge and their installation guide.

EDIT.... the left and right dash speakers are wired off the Kicks only in the NON B&O system....

 

[hilmerdm]

Well looking at the wiring diagram for the M0bridge... It appears to me they do. The only speaker run by the head unit (according to their wiring guide) is the center channel in the dash. the Left and right dash speakers are wired off the kicks. So when replacing the B&O with the M0bridge I have to run three sets of speaker wiring to the dash. The pod wiring is already at the B&O so all I have to do is transfer those to the new amp. /That is according to M0bridge and their installation guide.

I recently installed the @mObridge amp (I LOVE it - you won’t be disappointed!!!) and can clarify some info. The Mobridge amp/DSP powers ALL the speakers (75 W for the fronts, center and rear, 150 W for the kick panels, 400 W for the sub output). All are controlled and tuned through the DSP program. Only wiring is grabbing the harness off the head unit, installing the T harness from the kit and running it back to the Mobridge amp/dsp - installed where the OEM amp is by the Sub…and the power wires as well of course. The set up completely bypasses everything B&O. Happy to help with any questions!

 

[5GENIDN]

Only wiring is grabbing the harness off the head unit, installing the T harness from the kit and running it back to the Mobridge amp/dsp -

M0bridge installation instructions:

Step 19: Now we need to run the speaker cables for the ACM powered speakers. This will be a similar process to the power harness. Luckily there is an easy access panel under the climate control vents. Pop this off. ** If your hands are too big to get in there, you can remove the climate controls, there are 2 bolts either side behind the glove box trim and the steering wheel trim

Step 20: Reach up into the hole and feel for the plugs, the far right connector is the one we need to disconnect, shown below. This might be a bit tricky, have a look at our harness to see what the release clip looks like.

Step 21: Once this is unplugged you can plug in our ACM harness and route the 3 speaker cables with the quick release connectors through the foot well and under the carpet. You will need to remove the plastic screw holding the carpet down and gently pull the carpet back. It should run alongside the power cable back to our amp in the rear.

My understanding was that the center channel was powered off the head unit and not the B&O amp and that the left and right dash speakers were fed off the same line that powers the Kicks...

Am I misunderstanding something???? It would be nice If I do not have to run the extra wiring. Simpler.

 

[mObridge]

M0bridge installation instructions:

Step 19: Now we need to run the speaker cables for the ACM powered speakers. This will be a similar process to the power harness. Luckily there is an easy access panel under the climate control vents. Pop this off. ** If your hands are too big to get in there, you can remove the climate controls, there are 2 bolts either side behind the glove box trim and the steering wheel trim

Step 20: Reach up into the hole and feel for the plugs, the far right connector is the one we need to disconnect, shown below. This might be a bit tricky, have a look at our harness to see what the release clip looks like.

Step 21: Once this is unplugged you can plug in our ACM harness and route the 3 speaker cables with the quick release connectors through the foot well and under the carpet. You will need to remove the plastic screw holding the carpet down and gently pull the carpet back. It should run alongside the power cable back to our amp in the rear.

My understanding was that the center channel was powered off the head unit and not the B&O amp and that the left and right dash speakers were fed off the same line that powers the Kicks.

Am I misunderstanding something???? It would be nice If I do not have to run the extra wiring. Simpler.

The ACM powers the rear pods and the center channel.
Hench the ACM harness, this runs these back for our amp to power

The kicks and dash speakers are driven independently from the amp in the rear.

 

[5GENIDN]

The ACM powers the rear pods and the center channel.
Hench the ACM harness, this runs these back for our amp to power

The kicks and dash speakers are driven independently from the amp in the rear.

So many conflicting opinions on how this damn B&O system is wired... I am trusting you Frazier because if anyone "KNOWS" I think it is going to be you.... So now I know, Thank you. That actually makes a bit more sense....

So that is 4 of the B&O's 6 channels... I am assuming the other two channels are bridged for the sub (on the B&O).... I think with the M0bridge/morel I run one channel to each of the coils on the sub.... For a total of two channels to the sub.

 

[brkdncr]

OK so I have been reading post after post for the past 2 days. This is what I have come up with since it doesn't seem to be anywhere.
B&O system
center speaker and rear pods controlled by head unit at 25 watts per speaker
front corner, kickers and sub controlled by B&O amp at 110 watts each except sub has 2 channels so 220 watts. ( B&O Bronco specs 6 channel 660 watts)

So now obviously changing the rear pods with any speaker would be severely underpowered.
Looks like changing every other speaker you should have enough power except if you want to go big on the sub.

So my question is why is there not much talk anywhere about adding power to the rear pods? I know @plugnplaykits has s solution but I haven't seen any reviews and if its worth it... I mean logic would say it is because that would give you 100 watts to those 2 and then every speaker in the Bronco would have 100 watts. But just trying to get some talk and or debate and or info.

because rear pods house small speakers, you don’t need much to power them. Also, many people don’t even care for speakers in the rear.

I EQ high frequencies out of rear speakers all the time. I want my soundstage in the front.

 

[5GENIDN]

because rear pods house small speakers, you don’t need much to power them. Also, many people don’t even care for speakers in the rear.

I EQ high frequencies out of rear speakers all the time. I want my soundstage in the front.

I am replacing the rear speakers (all the speakers) and I do want power to them... They actually should place you in the center of the music if done correctly... And they can make a big difference. I do care for properly set up rear speakers. The B&O speakers are crap.... The B&O DSP knows that and accounts for that..... A new DSP and tune can make use of a decent speaker back there.

 

[Bucking_Will]

So ….so far we have heard mobridge which will give more power to the kickers, backs, center and sub which is a great set up but a tad but pricey. But is amazing sound because everything has more power
And then we heard that no one cares about the back
Anyone one add power to just the back or just the back and sub?

 

[5GENIDN]

So ….so far we have heard mobridge which will give more power to the kickers, backs, center and sub which is a great set up but a tad but pricey. But is amazing sound because everything has more power
And then we heard that no one cares about the back
Anyone one add power to just the back or just the back and sub?

The M0bridge that I ordered sends power to all 5 (dash left right center) and the two rear pods then it sends power to the kick woofers, then it has one channel to power the sub... I think the Sub channel is actually two channels bridged hence the "250w RMS & 400w RMS" I believe is per channel.

So one unused channel: 1x 150W Channels @ 4 ohms | 75W RMS

• 6x 150W Channels @ 4 ohms | 75W RMS
• 2x 300W Channels @ 4 ohms | 150W RMS
• 1x 500W Subwoofer Channel @ 4 ohms (or 800W @ 2 Ohms) | 250w RMS & 400w RMS
• 1x 4V RCA pre-out
• <0.01%THD
• 105db SNR

this is the
K2 8.1.1 Channel DSP Amplifier – B&O A2B Plug-N-Play Kit Ford Bronco

 

[5GENIDN]

So ….so far we have heard mobridge which will give more power to the kickers, backs, center and sub which is a great set up but a tad but pricey. But is amazing sound because everything has more power
And then we heard that no one cares about the back
Anyone one add power to just the back or just the back and sub?

I am doing my best to recreate (as close as possible) what I have at home.... No way I will come close but as close as I can... I have a 13.2 surround that is running electrostatics with two subs. It actually (when tuned correctly) places you right in the middle of the stage. Not in front of it, not behind it, but right in the middle.

 

[Area51BS]

OK so I have been reading post after post for the past 2 days. This is what I have come up with since it doesn't seem to be anywhere.
B&O system
center speaker and rear pods controlled by head unit at 25 watts per speaker
front corner, kickers and sub controlled by B&O amp at 110 watts each except sub has 2 channels so 220 watts. ( B&O Bronco specs 6 channel 660 watts)

So now obviously changing the rear pods with any speaker would be severely underpowered.
Looks like changing every other speaker you should have enough power except if you want to go big on the sub.

So my question is why is there not much talk anywhere about adding power to the rear pods? I know @plugnplaykits has s solution but I haven't seen any reviews and if its worth it... I mean logic would say it is because that would give you 100 watts to those 2 and then every speaker in the Bronco would have 100 watts. But just trying to get some talk and or debate and or info.

That’s funny. No way in hell the OEM is 660 watts. Maybe 1 channel driven at a 1k test frequency for about 1 second at 10%THD. I run an 8 channel Helix DSP amp rated @75x8 and it gives you goose bumps and bass knocks you in the chest. Amazing stage too. Don’t run much power to the pods and highs need to be cut from kick panels. Those two basic things really put you in the best seat in the house. You can make the Bronco sound amazing.

 

[Bigmoose]

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