MannyG20

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@cmcbronco - thanks for this write up and to everyone thanks for your insight and sharing your experiences and solutions to installing a sub.

I have a question about tapping into the existing speaker wires to grab the audio input for the sub.
I have the non-B&O set up with 6 speakers. I have already added the Kicker 200.4 amp. From my understanding of reading this thread I should tap into the dash/kicker speakers and not the rear-pods. Also, I need to tap into the feed before the amp and not after the signal has been processed by the amp. When you say 'tap into' do you simply strip a section of wire and wrap your sub speaker wire around the exposed section? Also, do I need to tap into the positive and negative wires of both the right and left speaker or can I tap into the positive wire of one speaker and the negative wire of the other?

Would it be easier to just use the PlugnPlay Kit 11-4? Could I use this kit if I added the Kicker 500.1 or 400.1 amp?

My plan is to install the OEM B&O enclosure and add the Kicker 8" woofer and Kicker sub amp. I am debating between the 500.1 and 400.1 amps. The 500.1 seems to be sold out everywhere but the 400.1 is available. The 500.1 is rated at 500w at 1 ohm and the 400.1 is rated at 400w at 1ohm. I know the watts will be cut in half once the woofer is wired in parallel as it will go to 2 ohms.
 
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cmcbronco

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@cmcbronco - thanks for this write up and to everyone thanks for your insight and sharing your experiences and solutions to installing a sub.

I have a question about tapping into the existing speaker wires to grab the audio input for the sub.
I have the non-B&O set up with 6 speakers. I have already added the Kicker 200.4 amp. From my understanding of reading this thread I should tap into the dash/kicker speakers and not the rear-pods. Also, I need to tap into the feed before the amp and not after the signal has been processed by the amp. When you say 'tap into' do you simply strip a section of wire and wrap your sub speaker wire around the exposed section? Also, do I need to tap into the positive and negative wires of both the right and left speaker or can I tap into the positive wire of one speaker and the negative wire of the other?

Would it be easier to just use the PlugnPlay Kit 11-4? Could I use this kit if I added the Kicker 500.1 or 400.1 amp?

My plan is to install the OEM B&O enclosure and add the Kicker 8" woofer and Kicker sub amp. I am debating between the 500.1 and 400.1 amps. The 500.1 seems to be sold out everywhere but the 400.1 is available. The 500.1 is rated at 500w at 1 ohm and the 400.1 is rated at 400w at 1ohm. I know the watts will be cut in half once the woofer is wired in parallel as it will go to 2 ohms.
Get in touch with plug n play they all direct you on the kit you will need for adding a sub. I didn’t do this initially so I had to modify a few things to tap into the harness for my speaker inputs for my sub. When you tap in to speaker wires I typically use These. Work great with no need to cut any wires. But like I said if you get the right kit from plug n play you won’t have to worry about it. Also he amp needs both positive and negative from left and right side to have full range of sound. Hope that helps!
 

SCTWNB

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@cmcbronco - thanks for this write up and to everyone thanks for your insight and sharing your experiences and solutions to installing a sub.

I have a question about tapping into the existing speaker wires to grab the audio input for the sub.
I have the non-B&O set up with 6 speakers. I have already added the Kicker 200.4 amp. From my understanding of reading this thread I should tap into the dash/kicker speakers and not the rear-pods. Also, I need to tap into the feed before the amp and not after the signal has been processed by the amp. When you say 'tap into' do you simply strip a section of wire and wrap your sub speaker wire around the exposed section? Also, do I need to tap into the positive and negative wires of both the right and left speaker or can I tap into the positive wire of one speaker and the negative wire of the other?

Would it be easier to just use the PlugnPlay Kit 11-4? Could I use this kit if I added the Kicker 500.1 or 400.1 amp?

My plan is to install the OEM B&O enclosure and add the Kicker 8" woofer and Kicker sub amp. I am debating between the 500.1 and 400.1 amps. The 500.1 seems to be sold out everywhere but the 400.1 is available. The 500.1 is rated at 500w at 1 ohm and the 400.1 is rated at 400w at 1ohm. I know the watts will be cut in half once the woofer is wired in parallel as it will go to 2 ohms.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker...pJixFhAtU08KZlt_jCMaAhM7EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

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EMBronco

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@cmcbronco - thanks for this write up and to everyone thanks for your insight and sharing your experiences and solutions to installing a sub.

I have a question about tapping into the existing speaker wires to grab the audio input for the sub.
I have the non-B&O set up with 6 speakers. I have already added the Kicker 200.4 amp. From my understanding of reading this thread I should tap into the dash/kicker speakers and not the rear-pods. Also, I need to tap into the feed before the amp and not after the signal has been processed by the amp. When you say 'tap into' do you simply strip a section of wire and wrap your sub speaker wire around the exposed section? Also, do I need to tap into the positive and negative wires of both the right and left speaker or can I tap into the positive wire of one speaker and the negative wire of the other?

Would it be easier to just use the PlugnPlay Kit 11-4? Could I use this kit if I added the Kicker 500.1 or 400.1 amp?

My plan is to install the OEM B&O enclosure and add the Kicker 8" woofer and Kicker sub amp. I am debating between the 500.1 and 400.1 amps. The 500.1 seems to be sold out everywhere but the 400.1 is available. The 500.1 is rated at 500w at 1 ohm and the 400.1 is rated at 400w at 1ohm. I know the watts will be cut in half once the woofer is wired in parallel as it will go to 2 ohms.
I’m doing something similar to this. Using a kicker key 200.4 and installing a kicker hideaway sub in the cargo area. I ordered my wiring harness from,
https://hoelwiring.com/
It just came today, so I haven’t installed it, but the quality looks good. I chatted with them in their site and was told they could make custom harnesses for different amps. Should be an easy install, as the harness for the sub already has the audio input in the harness. All I have to do is add power and ground.
 

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So what type of felt tape are you guys using?
 

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Will this work the same with a 4 door? Good stuff btw
 

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Sherminiator

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Thanks to all the previous posts on the thread, I installed a Kicker Key 500.1 and dual voice 4-ohm sub. I ran the sub in parallel so I have a 2-ohm sub. I mounted the amp right next to the sub so all concealed now. I used double-sided foam tape and screwed the amp to the chassis. Sounds great now. I actually have bass using a separate volume control knob. All the speakers were upgraded using
Hertz DCX 100.3 and
Hertz DCX 170.3

20220311_172637.jpg
Where there existing screw holes in the body to mount the Amp to it or did you add them?
 

 
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