roofone2

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The 4 door BL non- BO has a wiring harness in that location - did you move it?
I have the B&O, not sure if it’s the same, but it had a wiring harness too. I had to shift them around and work the amp underneath/beside them.

I actually haven’t drilled yet. Just double-sided tape, but think i have to go back in the secure it better.


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cmcbronco

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just got sub enclosure ... have [email protected] what size bolts do you need to mount sub enclosure in?
It’s been a while. I think you’ll need m6 nuts for the studs and you can use that size or just 1/4 nuts and bolts for the top holes.
 

MannyG20

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Yes, the lower studs are M6. I used 5/16 for the upper mounting points but you can go up or down a size if you want.
 

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If anyone is interested, I am selling the modified B&O enclosure with the Kicker 48CWRT82 installed in it. I paid $467 in total between the enclosure from Ford (I have a base system) and the sub from Crutchfield. I used it for about 1,000 miles over the last few months. Works great, but I opted to mount my amp in that area instead so I no longer need this setup.

Pics below, $350 shipped or best offer.

PXL_20220613_122849330.jpg
PXL_20220613_123108198.jpg
 

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MannyG20

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@cmcbronco - I am wiring my 500.1 to the 200.4 and have a couple of questions. Sorry if they are elementary. 🤔
1. I know you tapped into the speakers before the 200.4. Just to clarify - that would be the small harness without the power and remote (blue) wire, correct?
2. Did you tap into the front speakers (white and grey) or the rear / kick panel speakers (purple and green)?
3. Did you use standard speaker wire or did you use a thicker gauge?
4. 8 gauge or 4 gauge for the power cable?
thanks again.
 

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@cmcbronco - I am wiring my 500.1 to the 200.4 and have a couple of questions. Sorry if they are elementary. 🤔
1. I know you tapped into the speakers before the 200.4. Just to clarify - that would be the small harness without the power and remote (blue) wire, correct?
2. Did you tap into the front speakers (white and grey) or the rear / kick panel speakers (purple and green)?
3. Did you use standard speaker wire or did you use a thicker gauge?
4. 8 gauge or 4 gauge for the power cable?
thanks again.
If you got the plug & play kit, you should have gotten 11-4-it has a 17 foot extension that goes to the rear that you can wire into the kicker 500.

They make harnesses now for the front speakers-no cutting necessary

I'm using 8 gauge for my power cable.

Does anyone know what size nut fits the power terminal on the battery?
 

MannyG20

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If you got the plug & play kit, you should have gotten 11-4-it has a 17 foot extension that goes to the rear that you can wire into the kicker 500.

They make harnesses now for the front speakers-no cutting necessary

I'm using 8 gauge for my power cable.

Does anyone know what size nut fits the power terminal on the battery?
I did get the plug n play for the 200.4 but decided to add the 500.1 later. I don’t want to pay another $200 for the 11-4.
 
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cmcbronco

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@cmcbronco - I am wiring my 500.1 to the 200.4 and have a couple of questions. Sorry if they are elementary. 🤔
1. I know you tapped into the speakers before the 200.4. Just to clarify - that would be the small harness without the power and remote (blue) wire, correct?
2. Did you tap into the front speakers (white and grey) or the rear / kick panel speakers (purple and green)?
3. Did you use standard speaker wire or did you use a thicker gauge?
4. 8 gauge or 4 gauge for the power cable?
thanks again.
Sorry for the delay.
if you have the correct plug n play harness you should have the sub hookups. I did not and I can help you Out with tapping the existing harness for a sub,or better yet if you reach out to plug n play he will send you the necessary wires and resistor that you need.
I used 18 gauge speaker wire for the high level inputs. 12 gauge for my subwoofer speaker wires. And 8 gauge kit for the power and ground wires.
 

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Is there a part number for the stock sub grill cover or does everyone make there own?
 

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cmcbronco

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Is there a part number for the stock sub grill cover or does everyone make there own?
I made mine. I’m sure there will be a company that makes them sometime
Down the road.
 

MannyG20

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Sorry for the delay.
if you have the correct plug n play harness you should have the sub hookups. I did not and I can help you Out with tapping the existing harness for a sub,or better yet if you reach out to plug n play he will send you the necessary wires and resistor that you need.
I used 18 gauge speaker wire for the high level inputs. 12 gauge for my subwoofer speaker wires. And 8 gauge kit for the power and ground wires.
What is your reasoning for using 12AWG for the subwoofer wiring? Are you trying to prevent signal degradation since it is a long run? Is it pretty standard to use 12 AWG for subs? I am assuming that you used 12 AWG from the 200.4 amp to the 500.1 amp and then from the 500.1 amp to the woofer itself.
 
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cmcbronco

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What is your reasoning for using 12AWG for the subwoofer wiring? Are you trying to prevent signal degradation since it is a long run? Is it pretty standard to use 12 AWG for subs? I am assuming that you used 12 AWG from the 200.4 amp to the 500.1 amp and then from the 500.1 amp to the woofer itself.
12 gauge was recommended by crutchfield and have used it for sub wiring in the past. 12 is only used from the 500.1 to the subwoofer. For high level inputs from front left and right I used 18 gauge.
 

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I replaced my front speakers and added the kicker key 200.4 earlier this week and started on adding the sub enclosure today because Tasca Ford finally got it to me.

One thing I noticed is that my Big Bend panel has a carpet/sound deadening below the cubby hole that isn't on your base model-that is gonna make it a bitch to get the the cubby mount off with a Dremel.

The other comment I had was about the fasteners...I noticed that people are complaining about "breaking" the upper one in the photo-to be honest I think they are made that way-the one part separates leaving a part in the sheet metal. I was able to pull out the stud part in the sheet metal using a pry tool and snap them back together with no issues.
 

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Another FYI if your planning on doing this, if you happen to get the Kicker Amp mounting kit ‎46CK8 to power your rear amp, the 8 Gauge wire is going to be a couple feet short to reach back to the area where the amp is. I got one and ran it from the battery, across the dash and down the sill plate covers on the passenger side and it was about two feet to short to reach the rear. I winded up getting another 8 gauge wire and a connector to join them together.
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