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B&O Sub only upgrade?

ATLBronco75

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What's the least you can do to improve bass response in the B&O system? I'm trying to find the specs for just replacing the Rear Subwoofer in the same enclosure. Unfortunately almost every build thread I find adds an aftermarket DSP/amp or is for the base audio package. Some people mention that you can replace just the speaker in the B&O enclosure but they hint at a specific Ohm rating or something???
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Ksjrb03

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There is a reason an amp is added with new aftermarket sub. The weak B&O amp cannot drive them. If your not gonna add an amp just stick with the paper sub.
 

LSU Jonno

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What's the least you can do to improve bass response in the B&O system? I'm trying to find the specs for just replacing the Rear Subwoofer in the same enclosure. Unfortunately almost every build thread I find adds an aftermarket DSP/amp or is for the base audio package. Some people mention that you can replace just the speaker in the B&O enclosure but they hint at a specific Ohm rating or something???
If you already have B&O, I'd say it's worth replacing your 3 dash speakers and your two rear pods with nicer aftermarket speakers. You aren't going to get more thumping base by upgrading those 4" speakers, but you are going to get clearer, fuller sound. After replacing those 5 speakers I decided I was minimally satisfied and didn't need to upgrade my sub/amp.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...ete-upgrade-done-✅.41031/page-13#post-1354501

(that whole thread is worth a read)
 

mbagne

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If you already have B&O, I'd say it's worth replacing your 3 dash speakers and your two rear pods with nicer aftermarket speakers. You aren't going to get more thumping base by upgrading those 4" speakers, but you are going to get clearer, fuller sound. After replacing those 5 speakers I decided I was minimally satisfied and didn't need to upgrade my sub/amp.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sound-system-complete-upgrade-done-✅.41031/page-13#post-1354501

(that whole thread is worth a read)
Sorry, maybe this is answered in the other thread you provided, but what about "flashing" the rear pods that some folks have mentioned? You recommend changing dash speakers and rear pods . . . should the rear pods also be flashed in order to get fuller sound?
 

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LSU Jonno

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Sorry, maybe this is answered in the other thread you provided, but what about "flashing" the rear pods that some folks have mentioned? You recommend changing dash speakers and rear pods . . . should the rear pods also be flashed in order to get fuller sound?
The "flashing" is only for the base system, not B&O. All of the DSP for B&O is handled in the B&O amp.
 

TABadlands

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Put in a new after market 8" subwoofer of your choice and a Kicker Key 500.1 amp. It's not very difficult. Check out the thread posted above. @Ksjrb03 does a great job explaining it, what he chose and why. It's a great thread. All you have to do is run power from the battery to the Kicker Key 500.1
 

Wannabe Techie

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Best advice is don't try to salvage the B&O... upgrade speakers and sub over time if you have to with amps. Sounds so much better especially if you have a soft top or want better sound when the roof is off.
 

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BRBlue

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PghBronco

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https://srqcustoms.com/product/ford-bronco-subwoofer-enclosure-with-grille/

I have to say, this is very tempting. Seeing as how I did not opt'd in for the B/O sound system...
I am a fan of this. But not 600$. Just by looking at it its extremely easy to build!?

Materials:
Amazon MDF sheets 5x15 are 14.99 or home depot 4ft by 8ft 50$
the sub ( 8” Kicker L7T subwoofer ) 179$
Metra connector 3.99
poly fill 5$
Wood glue/ nails 10$
Optional: killmat 60$

Take off the plastic, cut out the tray (if no B&O)
Cardboard template,
Use carboard to get the first MDF made using a jig saw, then copy that like 3/4 times keep one full the rest hollow out.
Another template (pictures show the next 3/4 MDF are different width)
Speaker terminal far left side facing toward seats (easier to run wire)
add razzle dazzle by using Killmat inside the box.
Dry fit all pieces
Wood glue and nailer
For sub mounting, id install the box put plastic over, mark where the old tray used to be, then using the template included with sub center and route/cut that out.
Polyfill, connect wires
Box is complete then connect your amp to the box reinstall everything.

Thinking out loud and wanting all my things to be flush, you could alter the left side of the box and mount a amp there also. I would be willing to make this myself...... I curse you now.. cuz im going to do this 😂
 

RichMartMD

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I am a fan of this. But not 600$. Just by looking at it its extremely easy to build!?

Materials:
Amazon MDF sheets 5x15 are 14.99 or home depot 4ft by 8ft 50$
the sub ( 8” Kicker L7T subwoofer ) 179$
Metra connector 3.99
poly fill 5$
Wood glue/ nails 10$
Optional: killmat 60$

Take off the plastic, cut out the tray (if no B&O)
Cardboard template,
Use carboard to get the first MDF made using a jig saw, then copy that like 3/4 times keep one full the rest hollow out.
Another template (pictures show the next 3/4 MDF are different width)
Speaker terminal far left side facing toward seats (easier to run wire)
add razzle dazzle by using Killmat inside the box.
Dry fit all pieces
Wood glue and nailer
For sub mounting, id install the box put plastic over, mark where the old tray used to be, then using the template included with sub center and route/cut that out.
Polyfill, connect wires
Box is complete then connect your amp to the box reinstall everything.

Thinking out loud and wanting all my things to be flush, you could alter the left side of the box and mount a amp there also. I would be willing to make this myself...... I curse you now.. cuz im going to do this 😂
I'm mechanically able to work on cars, but woodshop wasn't my best class lol. Once it's written out as you did, it seems so simple :cool:. You must do bronco6g the favor and show your work lmao
 

PghBronco

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I'm mechanically able to work on cars, but woodshop wasn't my best class lol. Once it's written out as you did, it seems so simple :cool:. You must do bronco6g the favor and show your work lmao
Well, I finally had two days to really dig into this build. I'm only 50$ in. I have most materials. I, like you, am not a professional wood worker/ or builder. I don't even think I qualify To be an amateur. It's still a work in progress but this is what I got so far. I have a video being made also.
Ford Bronco B&O Sub only upgrade? F9F04D90-9754-4413-A1A4-109E7CC8D082

Ford Bronco B&O Sub only upgrade? 686A03C3-DBE5-4492-B840-FB2CB75F6ECB


The trim removal was easy, just go slow. I hope to have it done in the next day or two. The hardest part so far was making the template.
 

PghBronco

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Alright! It's pretty much done just some finishing touches sand the outside all pretty and adjust the inside to get more cu-ft.

important note: The box I made has cu-ft of 6.03 and the minimum for this sub is 5.0. Max: 21.2. My sidewalls are 3/4inch. Considering my box is awfully close to what's pictured the box they sell couldn't be much bigger cu-ft than mine, if they did 1/2 walls then they're bigger.As a consumer I pay 600$ for the box now knowing the sub would be just in ideal range. I don't know if I would be happy with the purchase. Being said let's discuss the b&o sub enclosure.
Ford Bronco B&O Sub only upgrade? D8D7EED6-C771-4946-A839-5A94F45CF600

Again I'm no box expert.

I think a contributing factor why the b&o isn't good may be from the box? It's hard to tell. I believe it's ported also I don't have one so I can't verify. I'd like to know the cu-ft on the b&o box.

Anywho I'll do a giant post when it's all done.
Ford Bronco B&O Sub only upgrade? 17B9E5A8-CFD6-4241-827B-180BB6C6EE77

I also decided to run jl mx300/1 marine amp. This this is tiny.
Ford Bronco B&O Sub only upgrade? 9E7BFFE8-C959-4E5D-B979-563233887CE5
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