B&O System Upgrade: Two Paths Lay Before Me

[Draughon]

TOTAL speaker newbie and trying to navigate this as best I can - so many threads are base model / non-DSP upgrades so trying to figure out what exactly applies to B&O system upgrades. Any posts with threads on upgrade paths for B&O encouraged!

Here's my situation:

2023 2D Bronco Badlands / LUX + SAS (with the B&O)

• Have replaced all 4'' speakers with JL Audio/Focal and have replaced the 6.5'' kick speakers with JL Audio as well.
• Overall the sound is a bit "thumpier" - and I'd say it's probably a 35% improvement, but I really wish the system had a better EQ rather than treble/mid/bass - because I'm constantly having to tweak for every song.
• I have to push the balance almost all the way to the front otherwise most of the sound seems to be coming from the rear pods / sub. and the sound profile / soundstage is a bit meh to be honest.
• Currently running this in Surround rather than Stereo mode
• I think with the higher quality component speakers, I need to up the volume knob (up to 22-24) to get the same level out output - I believe I read that's due to the factory speakers being more efficient at lower wattages? I could be wrong.
• Haven't touched the sub yet or opened up that panel yet.

Ideally, I want to keep the sub in the factory location since storage is limited in a 2D and a tailgate woofer would take up a lot of much needed space.

I'm so confused on what to do next - what do I need to get for:

Option A:

• Install Kicker Key (?) amp (200 or 500?) and new kicker subwoofer (kicker comp r8?) for increased bass
• I realize this does nothing for better signal quality / enhanced range for the other speakers
• I like the plugnplaykits options - but the shopping cart on wwww site is so damn confusing I have no idea what I need - which one to choose?
• Probably the cheapest upgrade path?

Option B:

• Install kicker key (?) amp (Audiocontrol amp?) and kicker subwoofer for increased bass
• Install L2C1 Pro (?) + kicker key amp + sub for increased bass + increased signal quality to upgraded speakers?
• My understanding is that this approach DOESN'T need bass filters as that's a lower speaker trim model issue? Or do I have that wrong?
• Pricier path as I would need a pre-amp + amp + harness + ??? - and this would involve having to run wires to all the other speakers, correct?
• What components would I need to pull this off?

My understanding is that there are NO forscan tweaks for the B&O that has any effect on the sound due to the involvement of the DSP, correct?

Thanks in advance!

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[Draughon]

*Bump* for some visibility!

I've reached out to @plugnplaykits both online and on here to ask for advice over the last couple of weeks but have yet to hear back.

Can anyone give me some guidance?

 

[DJ1]

*Bump* for some visibility!

I've reached out to @plugnplaykits both online and on here to ask for advice over the last couple of weeks but have yet to hear back.

Can anyone give me some guidance?

Chiming in since you bumped this one and nobody has responded.

On option A, you are not going to gain much by adding a Kicker Key 200.4. Adding a mono amp and sub will definitely help.

Option B - how far do you want to go? You can take a good amp with DSP and use speaker level inputs. This will leave you trying to overcome the built-in EQ and other settings in your B&O system. Not ideal but possible. I don't know the specs on your speakers, but if they will take more power, then get more power. The best solution is to get an A2B processor and then go to an amp or amps. Are you planning to do this yourself? If you are going to go that far, yes you can run your own speaker wires and no you don't need bass blockers or forscan. You don't have to deal with any of that since you can control the sound to each channel, control your crossovers, set the EQ, etc.

I built my system from the base audio but maybe this will help?
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-dsp-speakers-and-sub-lots-of-pictures.43856/

 

[Draughon]

Option A is essentially doing what this guy did with a Kicker Key 500 amp and a new Sub (and a truckload of killmat).

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sound-system-complete-upgrade-done-✅.41031/

Maybe using something like " KIT 24 KICKER KEY 500.1 AMP WITH HARNESS" on this page and just buying a sub?

https://plugnplaykits.com/collectio...lified-radio-plug-n-play-audio-harnesses-kits

Option B... I don't even know what an A2b IS... and the gajillion different options on the PlugNPlaykits www site is near-impossible for me to decipher.

 

[silentd74]

In my 4 door B&O, I have not added any killmat anywhere. I have an external 12" Kicker Solo-baric powered by the Kicker KEY500 in a downfiring config. I have to go above 20 to here any rattle anywhere. I have the stock sub disconnected.

My suggestion would be do the Kicker CompR 8 in the stock box and the Kicker KEY500, with a plugnplaykits harness. You will likely get panel rattle though. You won't need the killmat all over the floor in my opinion. But you may want to do the back of the stock sub box and surrounding area. I tried leaving my B&O sub connected for more mid-bass and I got more rattle, partly from turning the volume up more because everything else sounded better. So I went back in and disconnected the B&O sub.

I did add 300hz blockers to my 4" coaxial dash corners (JL C2), and the PRV 4" center. My kick panels are JL C2 component 6-1/2. I'm not using the tweeters from that set. I have Kicker KS in the rear pods.

My goal is to do the Mobridge DSP / Amp at some point and then do 6-1/2 / 6-3/4 rear pods. But it sounds pretty good overall. I do minimal adjustment on the "EQ" with the Bass at 0. Mid at 3 clicks + and Treble 4 or 5+ depending on the music. Even with a DSP the "tune" is not going to be perfect for all types of music. The downside with most of these A2B DSP is that you can't tune from your phone. The option there is a A2B pre-dsp, then something like an AudioControl DM-608 or DM-810 which has an available bluetooth module add-on that then works with their phone app. That would give you on the fly presets.

The Mobridge requires a laptop for tuning (PC only). I had a Sony Mobile ES XDP-4000 back in the day that was pc tune and 10 presets that were stored on a Sony MES C90 head unit. That allowed for multiple tune styles at your fingertips.

I like the 1 device simplicity of the mobridge though and that it will mount directly where the B&O dsp is. But that option is as expensive as everything else I've installed in my Bronco at this point.

 

[zombie]

You need high-pass filters (what everyone calls bass blockers) on the 4" speakers, regardless of the trim. A 4" tweeter cannot handle full spectrum audio (IMO)

B&O likely uses the same (or similar) paper cone speakers as the base, if I had to guess, just they add a sub woofer and more speakers.

I had a base 6 speaker setup and replaced all the speakers and added a 5 channel kenwood amp and a rockford 12" sub for less than a grand (Canadian $). The difference is night and day (again, just my opinion)

 

[silentd74]

Option A is essentially doing what this guy did with a Kicker Key 500 amp and a new Sub (and a truckload of killmat).

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sound-system-complete-upgrade-done-.41031/

Maybe using something like " KIT 24 KICKER KEY 500.1 AMP WITH HARNESS" on this page and just buying a sub?

https://plugnplaykits.com/collectio...lified-radio-plug-n-play-audio-harnesses-kits

Option B... I don't even know what an A2b IS... and the gajillion different options on the PlugNPlaykits www site is near-impossible for me to decipher.

Go with that Kit 24, his price on the amp and harness is $20 ish less than buying the amp somewhere else. Either do the mods to add the 8" kicker sub, or an external.

This is compact and sounds amazing considering:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646TL122/Kicker-46TL7T122.html

You may be able to slide this to one side for your install. I made mine down firing because the down firing version was / is on backorder. Check out the dims. I haven't measured a 2 door for how much room is back there.

 

[Johnny Mo]

@RagnarKon Has some extensive experience in the sound system upgrades and can maybe shed some light.

 

[Draughon]

You need high-pass filters (what everyone calls bass blockers) on the 4" speakers, regardless of the trim. A 4" tweeter cannot handle full spectrum audio (IMO)

B&O likely uses the same (or similar) paper cone speakers as the base, if I had to guess, just they add a sub woofer and more speakers.

I had a base 6 speaker setup and replaced all the speakers and added a 5 channel kenwood amp and a rockford 12" sub for less than a grand (Canadian $). The difference is night and day (again, just my opinion)

I've been told specifically that the B&O trim level with that DSP negates the need for those high-pass filters.

 

[Draughon]

Go with that Kit 24, his price on the amp and harness is $20 ish less than buying the amp somewhere else. Either do the mods to add the 8" kicker sub, or an external.

This is compact and sounds amazing considering:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646TL122/Kicker-46TL7T122.html

You may be able to slide this to one side for your install. I made mine down firing because the down firing version was / is on backorder. Check out the dims. I haven't measured a 2 door for how much room is back there.

Another dumb question... so all I need is that Kit 24 and a sub? The other link I had showed the guy running speaker wire up to a ground in the hood and a right hand knob and up through the chassis and all those extra parts...

 

[RagnarKon]

@RagnarKon Has some extensive experience in the sound system upgrades and can maybe shed some light.

I've been summoned.

---

ALRIGHT... so the "right" answer to this option is an A2B DSP/amplifier. A2B is a digital audio protocol, and is the same protocol Ford uses in their B&O systems. The best option I know of is made by @mObridge.

@mObridge has a DSP that will give you complete EQ control that is effectively a replacement for the factory B&O DSP. Two options are available from mObridge:

• DSP
• DSP/amp combo

The first one is just the DSP, so you will still need an amplifier. That'll be your best option if you want the best audio quality, but also it's the most work and will probably cost the most. The other option is a DSP/amp combo which is similar to the factory unit. It's basically just an improved version of what's already in the Bronco.

BUT... both of those options are pricy. No doubt about that.

---

Option B is to turn off the EQ/processing on the factory DSP using Forscan, and then feed all of those into an aftermarket analog DSP like the AudioControl DM-810. Then take the output from that DSP and feed it into one (or more) amplifiers. That will probably be the more economical option, but it's going to require a ton of custom wiring to make it happen.

---

Option C is to pick and choose which components you want upgraded. If, for example, the subwoofer is your biggest issue, then you can just buy something like a Kicker Key 500.1 or a AudioControl LC-1.800, and give the subwoofer more power/control. The danger with going that approach is you may never really be happy and in the end you just decide to do the full upgrade anyway.

 

[silentd74]

Another dumb question... so all I need is that Kit 24 and a sub? The other link I had showed the guy running speaker wire up to a ground in the hood and a right hand knob and up through the chassis and all those extra parts...

You will still need to run a minimum 8awg wire from the battery to the cargo area, and then a short ground which you can use the factory ground near the stock sub enclosure, if upgrading the B&O sub. If you do a separate sub box, then you want that ground to be as close as possible. If you put the amp in the side panel like ksjrb03 did in his post, that factory ground bolt will work fine.

The downside to that is you'll have to do all of the KEY tuning and adjustment before you put the side panel back on. With my separate sub box, my 500KEY is mounted to that box.

 

[mObridge]

I've been summoned.

---

ALRIGHT... so the "right" answer to this option is an A2B DSP/amplifier. A2B is a digital audio protocol, and is the same protocol Ford uses in their B&O systems. The best option I know of is made by @mObridge.

@mObridge has a DSP that will give you complete EQ control that is effectively a replacement for the factory B&O DSP. Two options are available from mObridge:

• DSP
• DSP/amp combo

The first one is just the DSP, so you will still need an amplifier. That'll be your best option if you want the best audio quality, but also it's the most work and will probably cost the most. The other option is a DSP/amp combo which is similar to the factory unit. It's basically just an improved version of what's already in the Bronco.

BUT... both of those options are pricy. No doubt about that.

---

Option B is to turn off the EQ/processing on the factory DSP using Forscan, and then feed all of those into an aftermarket analog DSP like the AudioControl DM-810. Then take the output from that DSP and feed it into one (or more) amplifiers. That will probably be the more economical option, but it's going to require a ton of custom wiring to make it happen.

---

Option C is to pick and choose which components you want upgraded. If, for example, the subwoofer is your biggest issue, then you can just buy something like a Kicker Key 500.1 or a AudioControl LC-1.800, and give the subwoofer more power. The danger with going that approach is you may never really be happy and in the end you just decide to to the full upgrade anyway.

Pretty much spot on but we do also offer a 3rd option that is just A2B to TOSLINK (Entry model). Thanks for the kind words, we do believe our interfaces are the best on the market. We have actually developed A2B systems for a few different OEMs now so its our bread and butter.

We have also dropped the price on our Entry conversion piece recently btw this provides just a raw A2B to TOSLINK conversion with no DSP features at all. This can pair up to a 3rd party DSP/Amp combo.

Also keep in mind, if you do do a high to low after the factory amplifier, you are getting a signal that has already been amplified and distorted by a dirt cheap D class chip.

I will also say one thing which is our all in one amp is more than just a improved version of the factory amp and the clarity on the outputs of all channels will exceed that of most A/B class amplifiers and be very comparable to any top of the line D class amplifiers also because we keep the signal path digital until amplification there is only one D/A conversion which also helps with fidelity.

It also runs our latest generation DSP core which features hybrid IIR and FIR filtering to provide fantastic phase response. This is something not many other DSPs feature and means the sound staging is up there with the best in its class.

The MOST25 variant of this amplifier (same platform) has actually won a couple competitions.

 

[mObridge]

My goal is to do the Mobridge DSP / Amp at some point and then do 6-1/2 / 6-3/4 rear pods. But it sounds pretty good overall. I do minimal adjustment on the "EQ" with the Bass at 0. Mid at 3 clicks + and Treble 4 or 5+ depending on the music. Even with a DSP the "tune" is not going to be perfect for all types of music. The downside with most of these A2B DSP is that you can't tune from your phone. The option there is a A2B pre-dsp, then something like an AudioControl DM-608 or DM-810 which has an available bluetooth module add-on that then works with their phone app. That would give you on the fly presets.

You cant tune via Bluetooth, however you can change between 4 saved tune presets on the fly through the factory headunit "speed compensated volume" setting. We have repurposed this for tune preset switching. The Bronco specific kit comes with these presets already setup for +3db increments of sub and bass. Of course, these tunes are fully adjustable through our PC tool.

Also keep in mind, the bass mid treble controls are actually just CAN messages that tell our DSP to apply filtering and these work as factory would. You are not going to introduce distortion by using these.

 

[Ibuprofen3293]

I upgraded all my speakers with speakers with 92db (1W at 1m) sensitivity speakers, and I don't have to turn the volume up as high as I did with stockers to get it as loud... Did you swap in less efficient speakers? I can't/won't/don't go over ~17 with the top on and windows up.

For the subwoofer, just follow @RagnarKon's posts and videos. The mono amp (Kicker Key 500.1 or similar) with the 8" sub (Kicker CompRT8) makes a nice difference and is a worthwhile upgrade.

You didn't mention it, but I'd avoid swapping the rear pods to 6.5" speakers unless you end up going the full A2B replacement route. With the stock DSP, you don't gain anything there.

I wish there was more I could do to mine without a full DSP/amp replacement, because I'm probably over $1k into the audio upgrades, and I'm not ready to drop another $2k+. But since that's my only next logical step, I'd say it's definitely good enough.

Oh, and definitely do some sound deadening unless you plan to drive around with the top off all the time. That could be another reason that I don't need to turn the stereo up as loud.

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