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Werkedperformance

Werkedperformance

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Same boat, although I am going to wait until the stock 33's are in need of replacement for 34's. Thinking 1" spacer or different wheels with a +30 offset to start though.
I'm torn here. Figuring ill lock down swampers on the
Same boat, although I am going to wait until the stock 33's are in need of replacement for 34's. Thinking 1" spacer or different wheels with a +30 offset to start though.

I'm going to use the factory wheels with beadlock rings and some form of bias ply swamper, then run aftermarket wheels with BFGs for DD and to the trails. swap to swampers at the campsite. pain in the bum, but mud tires suck on street, street tires suck in mud. factory wheels should be more like 9" once the beads are moved over the lip and locked down.





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BadSquatch21

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Why must you make me now want a 12" wide tire :LOL:
:LOL: I'm thinking it will be "just right" size wise. I think the bigger problem with the Badlands non sasq look is the wheel offset more than anything.
 

VelocityBrew

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:LOL: I'm thinking it will be "just right" size wise. I think the bigger problem with the Badlands non sasq look is the wheel offset more than anything.
It is wheel offset on mostly everything haha! I have 1" bora spacers on my Honda Passport for the same reason :LOL:
 

Draykas

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As a 2019 Ranger owner and visiting even in MO I talked to driver and looked at badlands with 33" tires. 35 would be easy as correct offset wheel and remove intrusion bars.
 

Gutter Clown

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Here is the picture I took. The shock and strut are to the right of the black component only finger width from inside tire wall.

C9B2932A-3001-4311-889B-DCB8E2D1A3B6.jpeg
 
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Werkedperformance

Werkedperformance

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Here is the picture I took. The shock and strut are to the right of the black component only finger width from inside tire wall.

C9B2932A-3001-4311-889B-DCB8E2D1A3B6.jpeg
the black component is the steering upright, steering knuckle, or spindle carrier, all are different semi correct terms.
 

Dads_bronze_bronco

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As a future 2.3 manual badlands on 33's owner, I think a spring swap will quickly be available to provide a little 1-2" lift for a clean 35" upgrade. Springs should be cheap for popular/volume applications like this, my mustang springs were less than $300. I saw some other suspension pictures posted that show shock differences (reservior positions) and possibly minor length differences, but its probably not a big factor. Another option is running 33x12.5x17's to get the width and stance, but keep the height and clearance similar.
My plan is to watch for Sasquatch wheel and tire takeoffs and self-Squatch.
 
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Werkedperformance

Werkedperformance

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Good plan, I'm waiting to see what aftermarket offers, and if I even need it. A King or Icon suspension package could end up better overall with more travel.
ESCV makes that more of a proposition than on other trucks..... You'd need a bypass shock or a coil over and a bump stop setup to improve on escv at full stuff.
 

Mrpenn46

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ESCV makes that more of a proposition than on other trucks..... You'd need a bypass shock or a coil over and a bump stop setup to improve on escv at full stuff.
Possibly, I have faith the aftermarket will provide, Icon in particular seems to have some pretty comprehensive packages for other applications. Plus the likely hood of me deciding I NEED to go bigger is relatively low so 🤷‍♂️. Lol
 

MaverickMan

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I can confirm the entire front strut is different between a 33 tire Badlands and a Sasquatch. The part numbers are different the spring perches are mounted at a different height, the reservoirs are flipped. rear shocks are not as drastically different visually however might be. I got part number pictures, ill try to get those posed on the ESCV thread.
I will confirm that 2 shock sets were developed.
 

rugbyback

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IMG_0656.JPG
So maybe 1/4" or so higher suspension on the Sas. How were the two equipped? Were they both Badlands? Same engines? Same trim levels?

Bottom line - wider wheels and taller tires on a manual Badlands and your pretty much have a sasquatch without the sticker.
I mentioned the following in another thread.
Was at the event today in Conshy PA where they had a non-SAS BL and a BD SAS. Measured from the metal edge of the wheel well under the flare, to center of the wheel. Definitely a difference. Had it at about 1/2", give or take 1/8". Just throwing it out there.
 

Dads_bronze_bronco

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I mentioned the following in another thread.
Was at the event today in Conshy PA where they had a non-SAS BL and a BD SAS. Measured from the metal edge of the wheel well under the flare, to center of the wheel. Definitely a difference. Had it at about 1/2", give or take 1/8". Just throwing it out there.
I think you’re saying you measure from the rim on the inside up to the metal fender. If so, nice job. I’ve been eyeing up that show frame trying to figure out which suspension and frame point to measure between when I get the chance. Rear may actually be easier.
 

rugbyback

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I think you’re saying you measure from the rim on the inside up to the metal fender. If so, nice job. I’ve been eyeing up that show frame trying to figure out which suspension and frame point to measure between when I get the chance. Rear may actually be easier.
Actually placed a flat edge across the top of the tire to negate any crown and allow a straight measurement to the center of the rim. I then took a measurement from this same flat edge to the edge of the metal fender that is covered by the flare. Added both measurements together. Figured it was the easiest way to get somewhat accurate straight line measurements without removing the wheel.
 

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