Badlands w/ sasquach.... leveling kit?

[Ralihaus]

Hello.

I have a 2021 badlands with sasquach package.

I'd like to level it. I can't find anything in the 2 inch range.

https://fabtechmotorsports.com/product/1-5-leveling-kit-ftl5212/

This is a 1.5 inch leveling kit for this trim.

Has anyone used this kit or do you have any recommendations?

Attached is a pic of my bronco.

Cheers

Sponsored

 

[Orangeflava]

1.25 perch collar in the front is a safer mod. GRTOFFROAD or RPG have kits. Just use the rear perch on the front coilovers.

mine is a non-sas badlands with 35s. Wasn’t on level ground in both photos but it sits perfect.

 

[Jhuff]

That's probably your best option if you want the nose to come up as much as possible without a lift.

These leveling kits put the CV joints closer to their limits, so that's probably why manufacturers aren't offering anything taller. The consensus is that they are fine for most, but use caution if serious offroading (when front tires are near full droop). There might be some droop-limiting options if you were worried about that.

I installed the 1.5“s. It's a chore, but easily doable if you have the right tools. Other than a jack & jackstands that are tall enough (~20“ of lift), a cutting tool for shaving 3/8" off the original top-hat studs, and a spring compressor (possibly optional) to loosen top-hat enough to twist); it mostly requires only a normal tool set.

I say the compressor is (possibly) optional because my top-hat was twisting on its own while trying to torque the spacer down. I don't know whether breaking it free (with the spring compressor) aided it in twisting it after releasing the spring; but I would still have a spring compressor on hand just in case, or your new studs won't line up with the holes.

Edit: the guy above thinks like me. The only reason I went with the 1.5“ is because I already had some droop from my heavy RSE sliders. I figure I technically only have a 1.25“ lift due to that. And I had already ordered the parts before the better perch collars came out.

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

Why?

You already traded 1/2” articulation for 1/2” of lift going to Squatch, and will lose more with a leveling kit. Then there is the whole more likely to damage CV joints and tie rods with increased angles.

You would be basically paying money to make your Bronco less capable and more prone to break down.

 

[R.A.N.M.J.]

Why?

You already traded 1/2” articulation for 1/2” of lift going to Squelch, and will lose more with a leveling kit. Then there is the whole more likely to damage CV joints and tie rods ends with increased angles.

You would be basically paying money to make your Bronco less capable and more prone to break down.

 

[JediMcMuffin]

Why?

You already traded 1/2” articulation for 1/2” of lift going to Squatch, and will lose more with a leveling kit. Then there is the whole more likely to damage CV joints and tie rods with increased angles.

You would be basically paying money to make your Bronco less capable and more prone to break down.

Exactly why I’m leaving mine alone.

 

[Ralihaus]

That's probably your best option if you want the nose to come up as much as possible without a lift.

These leveling kits put the CV joints closer to their limits, so that's probably why manufacturers aren't offering anything taller. The consensus is that they are fine for most, but use caution if serious offroading (when front tires are near full droop). There might be some droop-limiting options if you were worried about that.

I installed the 1.5“s. It's a chore, but easily doable if you have the right tools. Other than a jack & jackstands that are tall enough (~20“ of lift), a cutting tool for shaving 3/8" off the original top-hat studs, and a spring compressor (possibly optional) to loosen top-hat enough to twist); it mostly requires only a normal tool set.

I say the compressor is (possibly) optional because my top-hat was twisting on its own while trying to torque the spacer down. I don't know whether breaking it free (with the spring compressor) aided it in twisting it after releasing the spring; but I would still have a spring compressor on hand just in case, or your new studs won't line up with the holes.

Edit: the guy above thinks like me. The only reason I went with the 1.5“ is because I already had some droop from my heavy RSE sliders. I figure I technically only have a 1.25“ lift due to that. And I had already ordered the parts before the better perch collars came out.

So

That's probably your best option if you want the nose to come up as much as possible without a lift.

These leveling kits put the CV joints closer to their limits, so that's probably why manufacturers aren't offering anything taller. The consensus is that they are fine for most, but use caution if serious offroading (when front tires are near full droop). There might be some droop-limiting options if you were worried about that.

I installed the 1.5“s. It's a chore, but easily doable if you have the right tools. Other than a jack & jackstands that are tall enough (~20“ of lift), a cutting tool for shaving 3/8" off the original top-hat studs, and a spring compressor (possibly optional) to loosen top-hat enough to twist); it mostly requires only a normal tool set.

I say the compressor is (possibly) optional because my top-hat was twisting on its own while trying to torque the spacer down. I don't know whether breaking it free (with the spring compressor) aided it in twisting it after releasing the spring; but I would still have a spring compressor on hand just in case, or your new studs won't line up with the holes.

Edit: the guy above thinks like me. The only reason I went with the 1.5“ is because I already had some droop from my heavy RSE sliders. I figure I technically only have a 1.25“ lift due to that. And I had already ordered the parts before the better perch collars came out.

OK so would a 1.25 lift be the safer route? I'd just like to bring the nose up a bit but don't want to sacrifice too much range.

 

[Rkgzx9leftcoast]

I have the Zone 2 piece 1.25" front kit, havnt put it on yet. But that is all I am going, for a little more tire clearance with 37s. There are a few threads on here where people have the same level kit and 37s and havnt had any issues.

 

[acetdeucy]

1.25 perch collar in the front is a safer mod. GRTOFFROAD or RPG have kits. Just use the rear perch on the front coilovers.

mine is a non-sas badlands with 35s. Wasn’t on level ground in both photos but it sits perfect.

I bought the Zone 2" 1" levelling kit. It just recently became available for Badlands non-Sas and all Sasquatch build. It has been in-and-out of stock, so chase the internet to find someone that does have it... I think it is about $175.

 

[Orangeflava]

I bought the Zone 2" 1" levelling kit. It just recently became available for Badlands non-Sas and all Sasquatch build. It has been in-and-out of stock, so chase the internet to find someone that does have it... I think it is about $175.

I was concerned about cv angle the most. When I installed my 4wp bumper and 12k winch my front dropped ~ .75” inch. I recently installed the hidden winch and the lighter setup gave me .5” back. If I go 37’s anytime soon I’ll do the max tire clearance kit by JKS and 1” body lift.

im not ready to put $10k into my build right now to buy rcv axles & front to back suspension upgrades lol

 

[rtazz17]

Thats why im on fence to do a lift unless its coil overs. I dont want to make more problems. Plus 35s fit easily without it. In my case. I will wait and see what happens with others first before i throw money down a hole.

 

[Jhuff]

So



OK so would a 1.25 lift be the safer route? I'd just like to bring the nose up a bit but don't want to sacrifice too much range.

There are two different factors here, and lots of opinions on the subject (whether a perch collar is better than spacer and how much spacer is too much).

The collar simply adds preload to the spring, while the spacer pushes your whole spring assembly downward for lift. A preloaded spring will be harsher, but will only droop as far as the engineers intended. The spacer will ride similar to stock, but does allow the front to droop further than designed by the amount of the spacer (unless you install strap to stop the excess droop, or lower the differential).

I'm personally comfortable with 1.5“, from what I've read... it's just a potential weak spot if in extreme terrain and stressing the axle at full droop... But we also haven't seen a rash of spacer related CV failures yet (if it all), so I'm becoming more comfortable by the day. I won't be abusing my Bronco until it's older, and will probably have a "true" suspension lift on it by then.

The perch collar won't have the spacer's CV potential for problems, but may have other drawbacks aside from stiffer ride that I'm not thinking of.

I'm rambling. But if I was big into putting the Bronco in awkward positions, I would get a true lift or perch collar. For general offroading, I'm happy with spacer.

 

[Ralihaus]

Awesome pal. Thanks for the insight.

 

[Jhuff]

Awesome pal. Thanks for the insight.

No prob. I was just thinking that my statement about ride quality of perch collars might be exaggerated. Technically, a preloaded spring "should" be less cushy, but I don't have experience with them to know if it's noticable.

 

[SnowBronco]

No prob. I was just thinking that my statement about ride quality of perch collars might be exaggerated. Technically, a preloaded spring "should" be less cushy, but I don't have experience with them to know if it's noticable.

I do. I have the 2.25 SVC collars on mine. I guess it's a bit stiffer?! But we have 35"tires. Take a couple psi out. Problem solved. I'm going up the mountain with mine tomorrow to see If I see any difference in useable articulation range. I doubt it. Just moves the range up. Range is still there. We shall see. Maybe if I'm not that close to the fender I trim front bumpstops a little bit.

Sponsored