BAMF Tailgate reinforcement

Happy

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Hopefully this week I can do my install.

Did you ever get a PDF made to help with instructions?
May not need them but it never hurts.


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Happy

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Mounting the tailgate reinforcement is a little more than simple bolt on.
The square shape with the several holes (see pic below) interferes with the alignment of the spare tire mount. The top angled areas shown by the arrows are a little large so I ground off the corresponding area on the Bronco factory spare tire mount. That part is plastic covered aluminium so easy to remove the problem area with a carbide burr and air grinder. You could grind the tailgate piece but it is steel.

Depending on tire size and rim set back you may need a spacer to mount the spare tire so it won't hit the reinforcement bracket. The factory spare lug nuts need to be lengthened by that same amount or 1/16 inch or so more. Broncorik is right about the bottom lug being somewhat shorter. I am in the process of drilling out my spare lugs and going to tac weld longer bolts in place. Not hard just more than I enjoy in this 100 degree temps.

FYI:
My tires are Sasquatch size but Mickey Thompson with factory rims. The Mickey's have a more aggressive sidewall that contributes touching the tailgate reinforcement. I need a spacer that is 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick. Factory tires may get by with 1/4 inch spacer....but you will need a spacer with Sasquatch and factory rims or rims of the same set back.

Tire gate support.png
 

broncorik

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Mounting the tailgate reinforcement is a little more than simple bolt on.
The square shape with the several holes (see pic below) interferes with the alignment of the spare tire mount. The top angled areas shown by the arrows are a little large so I ground off the corresponding area on the Bronco factory spare tire mount. That part is plastic covered aluminium so easy to remove the problem area with a carbide burr and air grinder. You could grind the tailgate piece but it is steel.

Depending on tire size and rim set back you may need a spacer to mount the spare tire so it won't hit the reinforcement bracket. The factory spare lug nuts need to be lengthened by that same amount or 1/16 inch or so more. Broncorik is right about the bottom lug being somewhat shorter. I am in the process of drilling out my spare lugs and going to tac weld longer bolts in place. Not hard just more than I enjoy in this 100 degree temps.

FYI:
My tires are Sasquatch size but Mickey Thompson with factory rims. The Mickey's have a more aggressive sidewall that contributes touching the tailgate reinforcement. I need a spacer that is 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick. Factory tires may get by with 1/4 inch spacer....but you will need a spacer with Sasquatch and factory rims or rims of the same set back.

Tire gate support.png
I just installed mine too...and my experience was very similar. For context, my spare is a Method 705 with a 35 mm positive offset...5 mm more than the Sasquatch wheel (and I am using the stock Sasquatch tire). With my 35mm offset, I needed to space my wheel nearly 20 mm off the carrier...and subtracting 5 mm to compare it to a Sasquatch setup (for anyone who hopes to use the BAMF bracket with a stock Sasquatch wheel and tire), you will need to space your wheel about 15 mm (over a half inch, not a quarter inch) if you don't want your sidewall resting/being forced against the edge of the bracket. Alternatively, you can grind the bracket down on the top and bottom edges, but that will compromise the coating BAMF uses (it is like a powdercoat but better because it is able to be "healed" using heat).

As Happy mentioned, the BAMF bracket does intefere with the OEM spare carrier...and you would need to either Dremel the carrier or grind the welds on the upper corners of the BAMF bracket in the areas Happy pointed out (I used a file on mine and was able to remove enough material to make the carrier fit over it).

Additionally, the diameter of the holes for the bolts that thread into the hinge nut plates are significantly larger than the diameter of the M8 bolts that go through them (unlike the RC plate which has holes that are very close in diameter to the bolts). The BAMF bracket is much more substantial in terms of strength, and flex reduction, but having larger holes means in order for the weight that is transferred to the hinges not to shift your tailgate alignment everything is dependent on the clamping force of the 4 M8 stainless bolts that are provided. With closer tolerances, like the RC plate, even if one or more of the bolts was slightly loose, the bracket wouldn't be able to shift...but with the BAMF bracket, because the holes are so large (and slotted), the bolts will need to be tight to keeps things from moving. Unfortunately, the stainless M8 bolts (and the thin smooth 5/16 washers) don't lend themself to a lot of torque potential. Additionally, the bracket is intended to sit directly on the hinges, which are angled slightly differently than the bracket, so the actual contact area is not ideal. I ended up using the conical spacers from the RC bracket (which match the conical/convex holes in the hinges) which allowed even contact between the four through-bolt areas, the conical spacers, and the hinges.

The conical spacers are somewhat limited for strength because they are composite material and not steel, so my goal is to find steel replacements for them. Additionally, I plan to swap out the stainless M8 bolts for black oxide grade 10.9 hex head bolts and thick M8 black oxide washers...that way I can at least get an accurate torque reading. It might seem like overkill, but every time we open our tailgates with a big spare and a table or whatever else is hanging off the gate (including the 26 pound bracket designed to allow us to hang stuff off the gate) results in a lot of leverage due to the distance from the four M8 bolts to the source of the weight...and with the big holes/slots, the only thing keeping our gates from shifting out of alignment is the clamping strength of the supplied bolts (which translates into tensile strength and not so much shear strength because of the large tolerances)...and stainless is not nearly as strong as as grade 10.9 bolts (like our OEM hinge bolts).

As for the bolts that hold the spare carrier on, the supplied washers are too large in diameter to fit in the depressions on the carrier...so if you use them and tighten them some of the clamping force will be on the outmost edges and not evenly distributed...again, probably overkill, but I bought grade 10.9 bolts and thick washers that matched the factory flange bolt diameter used to attach the carrier (from Belmetric...my local hardware store didn't have them). Hopefully with the stronger hinge bolts, conical spacers, thicker washers, flange bolts, and proper diameter washers for the carrier my BAMF bracket will perform well and for a long time.
 

Happy

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Good write up with additional info that we also found on our install.

The BAMF powder coat is really nice. They do need to change their welding pattern and jig to fit the mounting issue. Good call on the 10.9 bolts, we need to change ours out soon.

This is a good product but right now it takes a person willing to rework the item to fit and the hardware could more easily easily be re-engineered by the maker rather than the purchaser.
 

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Great product but a few concerns I noted. The supplied washers are too thin and not wide enough. When you torque them down they warp then gouge the coating off. I replaced mine with thicker and wider washers. Also the lower area pinches the tailgate stop on the hinge. My paint is already down to primer. Because of the upper side having the large spacers behind it, that clears the hinge. So the only contact is on the lower hinge when fully opened, if that makes sense.

CC19D69D-63F2-41D4-A96B-751059E92FF5.jpeg


1DC9F8B3-4393-45FA-9020-AB1D30E6D139.jpeg
 

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Happy

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We have the same thing. Could have been prevented by a 1/16 inch reduction in the side of the
re-inforcement panel. We worked carefully to align the thing and get all the bolt holes centered.

On a new install this perhaps may be prevented by nudging whole thing to the drivers side and not centering the bolt holes so exact??
 

broncorik

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We have the same thing. Could have been prevented by a 1/16 inch reduction in the side of the
re-inforcement panel. We worked carefully to align the thing and get all the bolt holes centered.

On a new install this perhaps may be prevented by nudging whole thing to the drivers side and not centering the bolt holes so exact??
The other thing is that when tightened down the bracket does not lie completely flat on the hinges...which means the heads of the bolts have to torque the load unevenly. To compensate, I just ordered same of these from McMaster:

Screenshot_20220711-143712_Chrome.jpg


I also ordered flanged 10.9 zinc bolts from Belmetric, with 18mm OD. With the 22 mm OD washers, that takes care of evenly distributing the force of the bolts over the enlongated holes in the bracket (and the uneven alignment). The issue with adding any bracket to the hinges and replacing the conical torx head alignment OEM bolts with whatever is provided is that it can lead to the tailgate sliding out of alignment with any weight on it (especially a lot of weight).
 

Happy

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This is becoming a quest! Are you smarter than a tailgate? :)
Where are you placing the washers?

I'll probably get some of the washers also. The whole purpose is to make a stronger tailgate.
The way it attaches to the multi-angle hinges is less than desirable.
Whats another $25 bucks?
 

Limecreek

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Ordered mine June 17. Still hasn’t arrived. Guess I’ll start trying to contact them tomorrow. This is becoming more and more common with most fabricators.

Appreciate all the installation tips!
 

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As you install try to recall the book us youngsters used to read: "The little engine that could."

I think I can, I think I can

9780593094396-3083083573.jpg
 

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I am impressed with the design and quality of this product. It came well packed/protected and the communication I had with the guys at BAMF was great. I'm getting my new wheels on tomorrow (zero offset) and will post pictures of fitment if anyone needs.

Again, I would highly recommend this for anyone hanging larger tires or extra weight on the tailgate.
Hi, did you ever post pictures of your install? I have SAS and zero offset, so wondering about the installation experience.
 

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I have not posted since mounting my 0 offset wheels. I would say they are pretty much a perfect fit. I can take a couple pictures tomorrow and add them to this thread.

I agree with what many have said above. Adding conical spacers between the bolts and hinges seems like a must. I think BAMF should strongly consider adding those to the hardware kit. I ended up sourcing them from a competitor because it just didn't feel like I could get it torqued properly without them.
 
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broncorik

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This is becoming a quest! Are you smarter than a tailgate? :)
Whee are you placing the washers?

I'll probably get some of the washers also. The whole purpose is to make a stronger tailgate.
The way it attaches to the multi-angle hinges is less than desirable.
Whats another $25 bucks?
Washers arrive tomorrow...they will live between the underside of the head of the 18mm OD flange bolts I bought and the face of the BAMF bracket. The bummer is each set of washers (male/female spherical in stainless) is 10 bucks...so 40 plus the cost of the flange bolts. Even then, if I get it mounted to my liking, BAMF is not yet able to source a shorter gas strut for the tailgate to keep it from swinging into the taillight (with their Jerry can mount added...and the entire reason I bought the BAMF bracket was to mount a jerry can). I am currently in contact with another bracket manufacturer who will most likely have his system sorted out (and in stock) prior to the availability of the BAMF setup. I like the BAMF overall concept and potential structural rigidity, but with the oversized mounting holes where the hinge bolts go and the misalignment between the bracket and the hinges I am worried about long-term reliability and the possibility of the gate shifting out of alignment.
 

broncorik

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I have not posted since mounting my 0 offset wheels. I would say they are pretty much a perfect fit. I can take a couple pictures tomorrow and add them to this thread.

I agree with what many have said above. Adding conical spacers between the bolts and hinges seems like a must. I think BAMF should strongly consider adding those to the hardware kit. I ended up sourcing them from a competitor because it just didn't feel like I could get it torqued properly without them.
Did you get your spacers elsewhere (if so, where?) and use the BAMF setup or just go with a different bracket? I had to use the conical delrin spacers from my RC bracket but because the holes are so huge on the BAMF bracket the delrin spacers don't have much shoulder to take the torque...I will end up with a Frankenstein stack of spacers and washers just to be able to torque up my setup and it still won't hold my tailgate nearly as securely (from shifting out of alignment) as my stock setup did.
 

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We need a rear bumper thats hight and tight, with a tire carrier

all the tailgate mounts are band aids
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