Stock speakers had 4ohm stamped on the basket. I did not verify with a meter.Matching the correct OHM in a stereo setup is crucial. I would make sure those speakers match the head stereo unit before making them permanent. Glad someone brought this up and great video, I am ready to upgrade my first edition speakers now
DId you make these diagrams yourself or get them from somewhere? Do you know if the 4 wire pass-through plug is run in parallel or if the plug separates them out? Also, is the factory main unit the same with a digital plug-in module for BO or are they completely different? Really hope this thread gets very detailed so I can be ready when mine shows upThe two systems are wired totally differently. On base the other two are passed through to the dash speakers. Only two wires from a dsp on B&O.
That is perfect, thank you!! That also confirms that the commonly found "Ford Speaker Harness 1998-UP" does not work on the Bronco. I'll do some research and see if I can find something that looks to work. Will report back. Thank you!I am in the process of upgrading as well, hopefully this is helpful.
I absolutely hear some of the tinniness in the installed speakers. Much less muffled but I’m curious if the stock ones are muffled as a result of water proofing. Definitely an upgrade I’m looking to do but personally I’d rather go with water resistant/marine speakers vs regular car audio speakers.
From back in my audio sales days, I think the batting effectively makes the speaker enclosure act "larger" by damping the sound waves behind the speaker. It can potentially cancel sound waves that affect the lower end response of the speaker as well. Hopefully the pods were designed to work with the speakers, but I will likely add some batting to the rear enclosure as well, why not?. I don't think the rears will ever sound ok without a bit more power, but I am starting with the dash, then the kick panels, then the rear and if needed, an amp. If none of that makes it decent (good sound quality top on, enough volume top off) I will try and add a sub in the stock location in the rear.
Someone else said they were 4ohm but would it be okay to change the dash ones out with a 3ohmsMatching the correct OHM in a stereo setup is crucial. I would make sure those speakers match the head stereo unit before making them permanent. Glad someone brought this up and great video, I am ready to upgrade my first edition speakers now
No, you're not the only one lol. My guess is that the factory 4s are more of a mid range loud speaker due the lack of door mounts that traditionally deliver mids and volume. They rely on placement to deliver highs more so than their components.
I don't think anyone would want to be responsible for you smoking your factory system, but a 3ohm speaker should be ok. I ordered some Infinity 4" and they are 3ohm. The resistance is "nominal" so depending on the signal going through the speaker, it will vary anyway. What I can't tell is if the front speakers are wired in series or parallel. That would make a difference. If you changed to 2 (dash and kick panel), 3 ohm speakers per side, wired in parallel, might present to little resistance (1.5 ohm nominal) and the factory system could experience some trouble with shutting down, over heating or even the outputs being damaged. Maybe when the OP takes things apart, he can check the resistance at the kick panel speaker to make sure?
Judging audio quality via a YouTube recording is folly. You need to take their word is sounds better.
You can clearly hear the bass distortion of the new speaker. It sounds terrible. The factory speaker sounds muffled but it isn't distorting at least.
