Base Outer Banks 2021 Bronco Speakers Upgrade Tutorial -- With Stereo Wiring Diagram

[JGee]

It sounds like you aren’t having the same issues as I. Did you replace all 4 4” with these? Did you also replace the 6.5” speakers? Thanks

I did not replace the 6.5s yet, although I am planning to. One key point regarding the factory 6.5s, they have waterproof cones, which is an advantage compared to the Kenwood Road Series ones.

I will replace the 6.5s when I also install a Kicker HS8 powered subwoofer in the area behind the seats.... I have a 4 door. Also I am planning to take advantage of the wired power available back there as I opted for the Auxiliary Switch option when I ordered the Bronco.

I did make sure the phasing was correct during installation of the Pioneers. While I don't have the popping noise, at very high volumes I can tell that the front 4 inchers are struggling. The rears don't seem to have this problem, even when turning the volume up past 20. The speaker enclosures in the rear are so small there is likely no bass at all being sent into the cabin. So once the subwoofer and new 6.5s are in, I will listen and decide whether I need to install bass blockers in the front 4 inchers. With the subwoofer installed I will likely not have to drive the main speakers so hard bass wise, so the issue may solve itself.

One more idea regarding popping, are you sure that the speaker wires are restrained and not touching the cones?

Sorry for the long note.

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[FATHORSE]

Hey Matt, I noticed that in the BnO upgraded option there is a center channel. I couldn't tell in either one of your videos if your OB has a spot for a center? Or is it just covered in a plastic panel.
I'm sure the head unit probably has to support that, which makes the question irrelevant, but still good to know.

Also, do you think you could fit a 5" speaker in the front dash left and rights? Even if some Dremel nip and tuck is involved? Where you seated that speaker in looked like there could be some play.

 

[JGee]

I did not replace the 6.5s yet, although I am planning to. One key point regarding the factory 6.5s, they have waterproof cones, which is an advantage compared to the Kenwood Road Series ones.

I will replace the 6.5s when I also install a Kicker HS8 powered subwoofer in the area behind the seats.... I have a 4 door. Also I am planning to take advantage of the wired power available back there as I opted for the Auxiliary Switch option when I ordered the Bronco.

I did make sure the phasing was correct during installation of the Pioneers. While I don't have the popping noise, at very high volumes I can tell that the front 4 inchers are struggling. The rears don't seem to have this problem, even when turning the volume up past 20. The speaker enclosures in the rear are so small there is likely no bass at all being sent into the cabin. So once the subwoofer and new 6.5s are in, I will listen and decide whether I need to install bass blockers in the front 4 inchers. With the subwoofer installed I will likely not have to drive the main speakers so hard bass wise, so the issue may solve itself.

One more idea regarding popping, are you sure that the speaker wires are restrained and not touching the cones?

Sorry for the long note.

Update! I installed bass blockers on the two dash 4 inch coaxials. Really reduced distortion and able to crank up the overall system volume without boomy bass. I don't plan on installing them on the rear 4 inchers since they put out next to zero bass anyway due to the small enclosures.

 

[dduvic]

Update! I installed bass blockers on the two dash 4 inch coaxials. Really reduced distortion and able to crank up the overall system volume without boomy bass. I don't plan on installing them on the rear 4 inchers since they put out next to zero bass anyway due to the small enclosures.

Glad to hear that. I actually thought the rear speakers had a low-pass block on them already and that was the reason they don't put out much bass, or sound for that matter.

 

[JGee]

Glad to hear that. I actually thought the rear speakers had a low-pass block on them already and that was the reason they don't put out much bass, or sound for that matter.

They did! I removed them and installed a pair of 4" Pioneer coaxials without bass blockers. I can turn the vol up to 25 + to the rears only and they don't appear to break up.

 

[DirtMountainMan]

So I am going down the rabbit hole of audio upgrades while I wait on Dirt Mountain. I tried to read all of the audio upgrade threads and came up with a few questions.
1) The Ranger forum talks about turning off the factory radio DSP using ForScan. Is that applicable for the Bronco base system? Would it be needed if adding an amp?
2) Some talk on empty fuse slots for the unused B&O system. Could we use those for aftermarket amp power or is going through the firewall to the battery the best option?
3) In addition to upgraded 4" dash speakers, has anyone tried kick plate component 6.5" speakers and mounted the tweeters yet? We should expect to get more bass from components right? How about true 6.75" subwoofers like Kicker CWRT672 ?
4) Lots of wiring harness discussions but they are only needed if you want to plug & play and avoid splicing right? If you are running new speaker wire from an amp to new speakers then why bother. What am I missing there?
5) Prove me wrong....the best upgrade bang for the buck is six Polk DB (marine) speakers and a JBL DSP4086 amp (40Wx8ch) powering all 6 speakers. DIY $620. System allows future easy addition of a center dash speaker, 8" sub in the B&O rear spot or powered sub box. (Close 2nd might be front four Polk DB and Kicker KEY200.4. DIY $460. System has limited future expansion and factory sound in the rear. 3ohm Infinity or JBL speakers may be louder choices but not waterproof. Possibly under powered at 40W x 8ch? Trade the DSP for more power? Power and DSP and double the $. Let's debate it!)

 

[Hossfire]

For those of you adventurous enough to take on this task, here's a walkthrough from the Ranger5G forums. Much of the process is similar.
1) Since the head unit does not have RCA outputs, you will need to use a set of the speaker wires to send the audio signal to an external amp.
2) The radio firmware has a digital signal processor that cuts most of the bass to the rear speakers. Also, the signal is a high (speaker level) input vs. a low level input. You can can use FORScan software and a compatible OBD2 adapter to change the factory settings.
--- Whether you need to do this depends on what you want to do with your system. Apparently, the DSP doesn't dampen the low frequencies on the kick panel speakers. Splicing in a wire from them for a powered sub may be fine.
---if you plan to completely replace the rear speakers with full range speakers, removing the DSP will give you more bass from the rear.
---if you plan to add an external amp to drive full ranged rear speakers, probably the best route is remove the DSP and switch the outputs of the rear speakers to line level. Then you can attach an adapter to the rear speaker cables to run RCA cables to the amp. This is the cleanest audio setup, but a little more work.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/supercab-audio-install.10952/

 

[Hossfire]

Also. I'd love more info on possible amp and sub locations. Do any of the stereo fanatics out there have an idea about how much headroom the electrical system has (particularly the alternator). I'm thinking about wakeboard pods in the back and an 8" sub.Perhaps a 4 channel amp where I can bridge 2 channels for a sub.

 

[tjnoffy]

I will start by saying that I have not swapped speakers or added a sub to a car in over 20 years. The base system in the Bronco was quite terrible. The best I can explain it is that it sounded like someone was singing into a shoebox.

We did not go overboard and honestly bought what Best Buy had in stock as a test to plan for future upgrades. To my surprise swapping over to $30 kenwood 4 inch two way speaker in the dash made a significant change to the clarity of the sound at higher volumes. It takes all of 15 minutes to swap the dash speakers out.

I attempted to take pictures during the upgrade but they did not turn out as I would have liked. We did put together a high-level install video and sound comparison of factory vs upgrade while half of the Bronco's speakers had been replaced.

I also put together a wiring diagram however I do not have tools to test positive vs negative, maybe someone here will know based on the wire color? I determined based on ear however I am not 100% that I got it right.

**7/30/21 Edit:

Last night I replaced the 6.5 JBL speakers I put in (2.3 Ohm) with 6.5 Kicker CS 4 Ohm speakers for the kick panels. I also rewired the JBL Bass ProGo with 14 gauge speaker wire.

The JBL now sounds amazing. I actually had to turn down the bass knob to 50% and drop the Bass on the received down to 35%.

Edit to add update video:


The JBL Bass Pro Go turned out to be exceptional after changing out the wiring. We also swapped for 4 ohm 6.5 kickpanel speakers.

The end result sounds better than the B&O in our 2021 F250.

Thanks for the update! Sounds like you're waiting for speaker connectors to become available. Are the connectors mentioned in one of the early replies not the right ones for this project?

https://smile.amazon.com/Metra-72-5...r+wire+adapter+for+ford&qid=1627322023&sr=8-4

 

[BroncoRaptor]

Thanks for the update! Sounds like you're waiting for speaker connectors to become available. Are the connectors mentioned in one of the early replies not the right ones for this project?

https://smile.amazon.com/Metra-72-5...r+wire+adapter+for+ford&qid=1627322023&sr=8-4

I ordered these - they don’t work - even if you pull out the pins, they are to thick for the holes in the factory socket.

 

[JGee]

It sounds like you aren’t having the same issues as I. Did you replace all 4 4” with these? Did you also replace the 6.5” speakers? Thanks

I just put bass blockers on the front dash speakers. I had a look at replacing the 6 and 1/2 inch speakers but decided not to because the factory speakers have a molded plastic basket that provide a sealed baffle. Aftermarket speakers will likely not have this design feature and a loss of bass might result. I am working on installing a powered subwoofer in the cargo area instead.

 

[BroncoTPA]

I just put bass blockers on the front dash speakers. I had a look at replacing the 6 and 1/2 inch speakers but decided not to because the factory speakers have a molded plastic basket that provide a sealed baffle. Aftermarket speakers will likely not have this design feature and a loss of bass might result. I am working on installing a powered subwoofer in the cargo area instead.

I was able to reuse the plastic ring for the 6.5 speakers.

 

[BroncRik]

Sorry, been super busy this week with work. Make sure you grab the Metra 82-56055 speaker adaptor as the opening is larger than the 6-1/2" and you need that to fit.

Just wanted to get a quick update from you regarding the kick panel speakers. Were you successful in getting those installed with the Metra harness and bracket?

I installed my 4" speakers (Kicker CS Series) this weekend and sound amazing. I attempted to install the kick panel speakers (also Kicker CS) only to find that I did not purchase the wiring harness and mounting bracket. So I just placed the order for those this morning and now just await delivery to get those installed. At least now I feel confident enough in taking the trim panels out so the next time it will be a little easier.

 

[Vico]

FYI, if you are upgrading the speakers, buy these type of adapters to plug into the factory harness if you don't want to cut the factory plug.

https://smile.amazon.com/Metra-72-5...r+wire+adapter+for+ford&qid=1627322023&sr=8-4

Hey would you mind editing this comment? It’s the first link to come up when someone scrolls this thread, and it’s unfortunately inaccurate.

 

[VelocityBronco]

Hey would you mind editing this comment? It’s the first link to come up when someone scrolls this thread, and it’s unfortunately inaccurate.

Done! That was old, before an adapter was identified. Thanks.

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