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Done! That was old, before an adapter was identified. Thanks.
Thanks! I was close to making the purchase, but I continued to scroll the thread. Guess I’ll be going the clip and solder route personally.
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4avor8ntfair

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FYI, if you are upgrading the speakers, buy these type of adapters to plug into the factory harness if you don't want to cut the factory plug.
Would you mind reposting the link? Sorry, it looks like you edited/updated it, but I don’t see the link now.
 

CO-Bronco

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I have a random question, somewhat related though. Trying to find out the thread size on the OEM antenna to see if the aftermarket stubby one I currently have will work.
Would you be able to unscrew yours and measure thread diameter and pitch for me? If you have a tap and die set they usually come with those little thread measuring tools. The antenna I have is meant for F-150 which has 1/4”-20 threads. Any info is appreciated
Did you ever find an answer to this question?
 

zombie

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Thank you for sharing, I searched all over for this. I will have to go back and confirm my positive and negatives are wired right.
I am getting ready to upgrade my speakers also and scouring the threads. If you have a second I have a few questions. 1.) did you determine for sure whether or not kick and dash are series or parallel having an impedance of either 8ohm or 2ohm as seen by the head unit? 2.) Why did you shy away from the JBL speakers? I seen that you said you had some but switched them out do to sound? unfortunately I have spent 200 on a set of 6.5 and 4 JBL speakers and trying to decide where they will go lol.
 

CobraKaiSG

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this is such a helpful thread- thanks to the OP! I was just thinking that there's 12v power in the cargo area in terms of that 12v power port. Can anyone think of why we can't just tap into that for power for the sub instead of running a wire all the way to the battery? any help is much appreciated
 

JGee

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this is such a helpful thread- thanks to the OP! I was just thinking that there's 12v power in the cargo area in terms of that 12v power port. Can anyone think of why we can't just tap into that for power for the sub instead of running a wire all the way to the battery? any help is much appreciated
Hmm. Might work! I don't know if it is rated for sufficient current. I used the aux switch wiring that is routed from the battery to the passenger side rear cargo area. I connected it to the AUX 2 circuit since it is rated for 15 amps. No need to connect a wire to the car battery!
 

CobraKaiSG

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Hmm. Might work! I don't know if it is rated for sufficient current. I used the aux switch wiring that is routed from the battery to the passenger side rear cargo area. I connected it to the AUX 2 circuit since it is rated for 15 amps. No need to connect a wire to the car battery!
great idea- i feel like the cigarette lighter port in the rear area probably is good enough in terms of amperage but i think that the aux switch back there is a really great idea that i forgot about. could connect it to aux 1 or 2 which are 25a and 15a i believe which should be just fine and that way it's switched so it's not drawing current when you don't want it to and it's controlled by the key so when the vehicle is off the speaker/sub gets no power. i'll go with that solution
 

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great idea- i feel like the cigarette lighter port in the rear area probably is good enough in terms of amperage but i think that the aux switch back there is a really great idea that i forgot about. could connect it to aux 1 or 2 which are 25a and 15a i believe which should be just fine and that way it's switched so it's not drawing current when you don't want it to and it's controlled by the key so when the vehicle is off the speaker/sub gets no power. i'll go with that solution
Yes I am very happy with the result. Also if I need to temporarily remove the subwoofer all I need to do is switch off AUX2 and unclip the power connection at the sub. It is held on with straps that came with the Kicker HS8.
 

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deadCode

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This, I believe, is the male (not speaker) connector:

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-wire-asy_bu2z-14s411-afa.html

WPT-1182

or

BU2Z-14S411-AFA

But I can't find the speaker side of the connector.
I just found the following harnesses work well for the 4” speakers. I bought them online at Amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001OAB6BW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It took a few tries to get them to connect well, but once they are in they are very solid. I went with Kicker 4” speakers that were $99/pair at a local shop. I put some poly “snow” in both the dash and the rear pods -took a lot of snow in the pods. I had to break two tabs off the speakers to make them fit but that was easy with pliers. I found a trim kit at Harbor Freight for $8 that made it very easy to pop of the pods and the dash grills. I took my time to make sure I didn’t break anything and it sounds amazing. Ordered a Kicker hideaway that I’ll have someone else install.

F6024D26-AA31-470C-9F41-AFB3FEEB200D.jpeg


9F9E842A-6C09-4AA2-BE6C-06ED88587784.jpeg


C3636AF4-87DC-44CB-8D8A-13A5CAD8B4DD.jpeg


014E9F46-F038-4662-8F67-FDE3BAA412DC.jpeg


BF85B816-7F19-4314-9F37-17BC2C82B749.jpeg


428BCFC4-F3B6-4DBF-A344-A24F263D1418.jpeg
 

TheShark

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I upgraded my speakers today, boy what a difference from the $3 factory speakers. I used KICKER CS Series CSC4 4" speakers for the dash and the back and Powerbass OE652-FD 6.5" speakers for the kick panels. I chose the Powerbass because I had used them in my Bronco Sport and they are plug and play, they make OEM replacement speakers with the proper connectors, I wanted easy. I take my hat off to you guys who replaced the kick panel speakers without removing the kick panel, I popped the cover on the speaker, took one look and said I'm going to have to remove the whole panel just no room to work. It's a PITA having to pull the cover off the dead pedal and sure enough I didn't have a deep well 10mm socket to remove the nuts, had to make a trip to Lowes. Other than that it was fairly straight forward, I had to swap the foam around the collar on the new speaker with the factory speaker. The Powerbass had a much thicker harder foam collar which wouldn't allow the cover to sit flush, the factory speaker has a soft cushy foam collar, I carefully swapped the foam and it fit perfect.

Thanks to all the guys who pioneered the speaker swap. Your information was very useful.
 

wcmaness

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FYI, if you are upgrading the speakers, buy these type of adapters to plug into the factory harness if you don't want to cut the factory plug.
What are the adapters you are referring to? Did you leave out a link?
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