Base Sound System Electrical Signal - AudioControl DSP View: Front vs. Rear

[pjmezz13]

I know there are many posts on here about the signal going to the rear pods in the base sound system. Today I decided to see what it actually looks like electrically through the AudioControl DSP in the D-5.1300 I installed.

Front:

Rear:

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[da_jokker]

I'm sure this is exactly what people need especially when tweaking settings and such to see what truly opens things up.

My problem is, I don't understand the results you're showing

 

[pjmezz13]

I'm sure this is exactly what people need especially when tweaking settings and such to see what truly opens things up.

My problem is, I don't understand the results you're showing

The rear signal seems to have a high pass filter at about 250HZ. That's why tapping into the rear speaker signal for either full range output for a 4 channel or subwoofer amp doesn't work. Most people would prefer to do this though as it's physically closer to where their amplifier will go. Instead, to get full range signal to an amp you have to either tap into the front signal at the kick panel or behind the dash using something like a T harness.

Using a DSP like I have shown here will help those looking to test different Forscan changes to try and open up the rear signal.

For those simply swapping the rear speakers, I don't think you need any additional signal with a 4" driver. My Kicker 47KSC404s have plenty of range for their size.

 

[mikey_photo]

This is certainly helpful. So essentially it looks like the rears have quite the far stretching high pass filter (or curves) applied with a big EQ bump on the top end. It's actually funny because it visually looks about how they sound. Thanks for posting

 

[da_jokker]

The rear signal seems to have a high pass filter at about 250HZ. That's why tapping into the rear speaker signal for either full range output for a 4 channel or subwoofer amp doesn't work. Most people would prefer to do this though as it's physically closer to where their amplifier will go. Instead, to get full range signal to an amp you have to either tap into the front signal at the kick panel or behind the dash using something like a T harness.

Using a DSP like I have shown here will help those looking to test different Forscan changes to try and open up the rear signal.

For those simply swapping the rear speakers, I don't think you need any additional signal with a 4" driver. My Kicker 47KSC404s have plenty of range for their size.

Lol I'm an idiot (but it was before 6am and I haven't had my coffee yet).

I saw the buttons at the top for input, output, and dash... And they seem to line up with the signals like columns.

Now that I look back, I see you have the "input" selected in the entire graph applies to that.

This is perfect... Now we just need someone to play with all those questionable forscan setting and use something like this to find out what's and for all, which setting opens up the rears to the same signal as the front.

 

[da_jokker]

This is certainly helpful. So essentially it looks like the rears have quite the far stretching high pass filter (or curves) applied with a big EQ bump on the top end. It's actually funny because it visually looks about how they sound. Thanks for posting

I'm noticing that as well. Seems like the front speakers get you the lower frequencies, and the rear speakers were meant to be loud higher frequencies.

I could be interpreting it wrong, but the front higher bars to the left (aka lower freq) and the rear have higher bars to the right (aka higher freq)

 

[mikey_photo]

For those simply swapping the rear speakers, I don't think you need any additional signal with a 4" driver. My Kicker 47KSC404s have plenty of range for their size.

I'm running the same speakers in the dash and the pods. I have them going through a Kicker Key 200.4 and the auto setup with the DSP made them sound really good. I think this further explains why the fronts (from the factory) had bass blockers installed on them. I did put 300 bass blockers on the front Kickers as well.

 

[mikey_photo]

I'm noticing that as well. Seems like the front speakers get you the lower frequencies, and the rear speakers were meant to be loud higher frequencies.

I could be interpreting it wrong, but the front higher bars to the left (aka lower freq) and the rear have higher bars to the right (aka higher freq)

Your interpretation is exactly correct. Keep in mind the front also has the 6.5" drivers in the kick panels which allow for more lower range frequencies and from the factory the front 4" dash drivers have a hardware high pass (the bass blockers) installed on them. For reference I high pass all of my speakers at 80hz on the amp. I allow the sub to fill the frequencies below 80hz.

 

[Mattwings]

That’s a great visual. I have gone through 3 stages of change in my Bronco (dash speakers, added 300hz “bass blockers” then swapped In Kicker 4” in the dash and 6.5” kick panels, amp and LC21 converter). I am actually glad the rears have the bass roll off as I am moving my original Infinity 4” to the rear pods, saves me a few $ on bass blockers. All that being said, amp upgrade and 8” sub in a custom cabinet are next as the system still lacks enough bass to balance the sound and volume, particularly topless

 

[DJ1]

I know there are many posts on here about the signal going to the rear pods in the base sound system. Today I decided to see what it actually looks like electrically through the AudioControl DSP in the D-5.1300 I installed.

Front:

Rear:

I have that same amp waiting to be installed. As soon as I get an open weekend it will be going in. What speakers are you running off of it?

 

[pjmezz13]

I have that same amp waiting to be installed. As soon as I get an open weekend it will be going in. What speakers are you running off of it?

I currently have the Kicker 47KSS670 6.5" components running passive in the kick panel and the tweeters mounted on top of the dash speaker grilles.

I also have the Kicker 47KSC404 coaxials in the rear pods and a second set not currently installed.

I was running the components and 4" coaxials in the rear pods off the amp with the Kicker 48CWRT82 8" sub.

This weekend I disconnected the rear pods from the amp and wired them back into the factory signal from the head unit.

I plan on removing the tweeters and running the other set of 4" coaxials in the dash along with the 6.5" components in the kick panel fully active along with the sub.

The sound with the tweeters is a bit too bright for me at higher volumes, and I think the coaxials in the dash will produce the sound I'm looking for a bit better.

What I didn't realize before I put the rear pods back onto the factory signal was that my time alignment through the DSP would be thrown off. Meaning, I have a delay set for each channel to center the sound stage in the dash, along with the sub image coming to the front. With the rear pods not delayed, that sound plays a little before the other speakers. My remedy for this was to fade the head unit all the way to the front when I have no passengers in the rear. From there I created a second tune with the DSP that removes all delay from the front and sub channels. So when I switch between the 2 tunes with my ACR-3 bass knob, I can also fade the head unit signal back towards the middle. The sound isn't as enjoyable to me, but with a car full of people or even with the top down at higher speeds it's probably better for volume.

 

[nic_papagiorgio]

The rear signal seems to have a high pass filter at about 250HZ. That's why tapping into the rear speaker signal for either full range output for a 4 channel or subwoofer amp doesn't work. Most people would prefer to do this though as it's physically closer to where their amplifier will go. Instead, to get full range signal to an amp you have to either tap into the front signal at the kick panel or behind the dash using something like a T harness.

Using a DSP like I have shown here will help those looking to test different Forscan changes to try and open up the rear signal.

For those simply swapping the rear speakers, I don't think you need any additional signal with a 4" driver. My Kicker 47KSC404s have plenty of range for their size.

have you upgraded your sound system? i bout a Base and will be upgrading the system but don't know where to start or how best to go about it. any advice?

 

[DrGuiria]

You’ve convinced me to get the audiocontrol 608 dsp…already have speakers, amps, and a hideaway10 coming…looking forward to it.

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