Been wondering about the Oil .....

[timhood]

I am old school and have followed the same program with every new vehicle I have owned regardless of make. At 500 miles the oil & filter are changed. I then switch to a full synthetic. I then change at 2500-3000 intervals. I don't care if the oil MFG says is can go 5k, 10k, or beyond. It is cheap insurance.

Some things seem cheap when you only have to pay for them a little at a time.

Let's say $30 for oil, $10 for a nice filter and $0 for your time and effort, trip to dispose of used oil, etc. That's up to $160/10,000 miles or $1,600 for 100,000 miles vs. $400 for the same, or $1,200 more in "cheap insurance." That's if you DIY.

The catch is that since nothing went wrong, you assume it was because of the cheap insurance, rather than the engine simply did not require that maintenance in order to be just as well-maintained.

Oil discussions are generally pointless because, like politics, nobody ever budges from their mindset, so in the end, each person can do what works for himself.

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[TheKim]

Oil discussions are generally pointless because, like politics, nobody ever budges from their mindset, so in the end, each person can do what works for himself.

And, thread over

 

[Laminar]

I don't try to pretend I know more than the engineers.

The engineers didn't print the owner's manual.

Ford specifies 5W-20 oil on the Coyote V8. Some people like running 5W-30 (or thicker). This has set off millions of internet arguments about running oil that's "too thick" and "you think you know better than the engineers??"

Until one of the former lead system engineers on Ford's V8 engines came out and said he'd never ever ever run 5W-20 on a Ford V8. After personally witnessing hundreds of longevity and wear tests and having full and complete access to all of the data available to Ford, it was clear that 5W-20 provided protection that was "good enough" and also offered a fractional mpg advantage. The 5W-20 had almost no headroom if the engine was run hot and could thin out and allow damage. Switching to 5W-30 loses that fraction of an mpg that only matters to Ford's CAFE bottom line, but gains a significant increase in protection to the engine, especially in extreme conditions.

The recommendations in the owner's manuals don't come from the engineers alone. They come from the accountants, engineers, legal department, management, marketing, and more. So we can't just throw up our hands and assume that whatever is in that manual must be what's best for me, because my priorities aren't necessarily Ford's priorities.

I want the engine to last forever at a reasonable cost of maintenance. Ford wants the engine to last through the warranty period, but also they want to meet corporate fuel economy standards, they want to appear technologically advanced compared to their competitors, they want to achieve a low cost of maintenance, they want to promote the fluids that they rebrand and sell, and more. I don't care about any of that stuff.

 

[Wanted33]

well, i figure i can just change the filter in my garage without having to take it in, but the question is whether that's enough or should I change the oil as well?

Dude, you gotta change the oil. Oil break down when it's used.

 

[nd2002]

Is the 2.7 on bronco going to use the crappy plastic oil pan still and have they fixed them so they don’t leak oil like the f150 ones I read about

Fords have a plastic oil pan? (never owned a Ford before)

 

[nd2002]

Never had a vehicle with the oil filter on top. And I quit changing my own oil and filters about 25 years ago.

When the engine is off, does any oil reside in the filter on the top? I would expect not, but also not going to assume.

Absolutely, in my experience. Need shop towels taking the filter out in most cars to avoid the drips.

I usually go for a drive to heat the oil up slightly before draining, so that may be a big reason.

 

[jay-rod427]

To those that say it's unneccesary, cool don't change yours. It's America at least for now we still have our own free will to do mostly what we want.

Me personally yes I always change new vehicles at 1,000, 2,500, and 5,000 then proceed to 7,500 if using synthetic.

It is a fact with no argument that a new engine is wearing in the surfaces, and those particulates end up in the oil. The filter catches most, but not all. Won't do any harm changing too often.

 

[Raptor911]

2.3 >> metal
2.7 >> plastic
3.0 >> plastic
3.5 >> metal as of 2/29/2018

Fords have a plastic oil pan? (never owned a Ford before)

 

[jay-rod427]

Dude, you gotta change the oil. Oil break down when it's used.

Most modern quality oils don't break down that much, especially synthetic blends. They do however get contaminated which causes them to lose their characteristics.

But I agree change the oil and filter together.

 

[Judge Rufus]

Dude, you gotta change the oil. Oil break down when it's used.

I think that buzpro is talking about the initial change during the engine start up at 3,000 miles or so. The oil isn't going to be broken down yet.

 

[Silver-Bolt]

Some things seem cheap when you only have to pay for them a little at a time.

Let's say $30 for oil, $10 for a nice filter and $0 for your time and effort, trip to dispose of used oil, etc. That's up to $160/10,000 miles or $1,600 for 100,000 miles vs. $400 for the same, or $1,200 more in "cheap insurance." That's if you DIY.

The catch is that since nothing went wrong, you assume it was because of the cheap insurance, rather than the engine simply did not require that maintenance in order to be just as well-maintained.

Oil discussions are generally pointless because, like politics, nobody ever budges from their mindset, so in the end, each person can do what works for himself.

For me it has nothing to do with "nothing went wrong" and everything to do with how an internal combustion engine functions and what wears. Turbo motors generate higher oil temps than N/A engines. Higher temps break down oil faster. Today's low viscosity oils do not offer the same level of lubrication and protection that a higher viscosity offers. Tighter tolerances on engine internals means that "dirty" oil is going to have less space on lubricated surfaces. Thinner oil cannot suspend the "dirt" as well as thicker oil.

$1600 in oil changes to go 100,000 is less than a new engine that is out of warranty.

 

[Wanted33]

I think that buzpro is talking about the initial change during the engine start up at 3,000 miles or so. The oil isn't going to be broken down yet.

Well that makes more sense I guess. I had a '72 Chev. Vega that drank so much oil I just changed the filter because the oil never got oil. It just got away. I don't think the Bronco will have that problem.

 

[Bronco21fan]

Fords have a plastic oil pan? (never owned a Ford before)

Yes the 2.7 liter uses a plastic oil pan on the f150 I think some of there other engines might use it as well not sure if the bronco will have it if someone wants to chime in please do should this be a worry

 

[Wanted33]

Yes the 2.7 liter uses a plastic oil pan on the f150 I think some of there other engines might use it as well not sure if the bronco will have it if someone wants to chime in please do should this be a worry

I'm hoping with Ford marketing the Bronco as the supreme off road vehicle they'll have the good sense to use metal for the oil pan. But........

 

[Bronco21fan]

us 2.7 liter people better pray we don’t have the issues with oil leaking and the gaskets on the pan like I seen in some of the f150 forums hope they fixed the issues with the plastic pan

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