Bent frame from backing into a creek boulder [Updated with replacement frame info]

[da_jokker]

Well regardless of how this actually happened, how many times have we come off a ledge or a rock and smack the trailer hitch? I mean most people treat the hitch sort of as a "rear rock slider"

I was thinking of ordering that hitch slide to make sure that that gets hit before anything else including my bumper and spare tire... Now I don't know.

Maybe having some reinforcement metal added to that middle brace to keep it from twisting or bending.

I mean I get the crumple zone concept.. this kind of seems like the tie rod problem... I really looking for a weak point where it actually should be stronger than the norm.

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[Rspayde]

Well regardless of how this actually happened, how many times have we come off a ledge or a rock and smack the trailer hitch? I mean most people treat the hitch sort of as a "rear rock slider"

I was thinking of ordering that hitch slide to make sure that that gets hit before anything else including my bumper and spare tire... Now I don't know.

Maybe having some reinforcement metal added to that middle brace to keep it from twisting or bending.

I mean I get the crumple zone concept.. this kind of seems like the tie rod problem... I really looking for a weak point where it actually should be stronger than the norm.

I think sliding off a rock and leaving the lightest portion of the vehicle to get supported by the trailer hitch and ramming a boulder at 10MPH are two very different things

 

[Stefanmcd]

I don't really think this is an issue of construction quality. I cant imagine there are many vehicles that would fair very well to direct impact pin pointed at the middle of a frame sub rail at 5-10 MPH.

How many beers did you have leading up to this? If you were sober just deactivate your account.

I would bash you for not using your rearview and parking sensors but I took an F150 that had the sensors shut off through my garage door once so can't judge to much there.

Well it was on the way out at the end of the day so it was somewhere between 1 and 12. Speed was a ballpark and it's not unreasonable to have 15 mph in there.

 

[Tricky Dick]

I see an opportunity for a heavy wall box tube custom hitch/crossmember.

 

[rgalvinmi]

Moral of the story...."Don't buy a used Bronco".

 

[AV99GT]

Service procedure says to remove the rear bumper (of course ) the muffler and the trailer hitch. no mention of removing the body. The image shows the body still on the frame. You can acess all the welds with it on.

If this would've been 6 months ago he would've been totaled. There are a couple dozen of these at the depot in Detroit. I don't know if the service procedure requires the body to come off or just the bumper but better this get trashed than one of the rear rails. The part with the green triangle (rear subframe section) is also available. Front section (out of pic) shows 1 in the warehouse for the 2.3 and 1 for the 2.7. Looks like there are one or two full frames now available as well so if you get side smacked with frame damage, it may not total due to part availability.
MB3Z-5F146-A

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

Raptor braces won't work on non Raptors unless the muffler is removed. I've not put hands on the braces yet but don't think they provide much in the way strength. Mainly there to take some of the flex/twist out of the hitch and crossmember when towing a heavy load.

Yeah, I am hoping ultimately when the next gen Ranger gets to market, a Class III receiver that bolts on where the tow hooks are on either side comes out that will fit the Bronco as well.

This just has me trusting the receiver even less. (I already was underwhelmed when comparing both the frame cross member dimensions and receiver steel thickness to the Jeep JK set up.)

 

[flip]

My assumption why Ford went with the current hitch was to keep it tucked for clearance. The best setup would be to use a standard hitch that bolted to the outside rails like the majority of trucks. Wouldn't be an issue for the people that never go off road and 75% of the people that only do mild wheeling.

 

[David196]

Get it fixed.

If you ever get in a rear end style accident the compromised frame issues may lead to very dangerous consequences.

 

[mcinfantry]

Service procedure says to remove the rear bumper (of course ) the muffler and the trailer hitch. no mention of removing the body. The image shows the body still on the frame. You can acess all the welds with it on.

Good to know I haven’t had time to look in Mitchell

 

[flip]

Rear Crossmember
Special Tool(s) / General Equipment

Grinder

MIG/MAG Welding Equipment

Locking Pliers

Removal

WARNING: Frame rail crush zones absorb crash energy during a collision and must be replaced if damaged. Prior to replacement of frame rail crush zones, straighten damaged frame rails to correct frame dimensions. Failure to follow these instructions may adversely affect frame rail crush zone performance and may result in serious personal injury to vehicle occupants in a crash.

NOTICE: Collision damage repair must conform to the instructions contained in this workshop manual. Replacement components must be new, genuine Ford Motor Company parts. Recycled, salvaged, aftermarket or reconditioned parts (including body parts, wheels or safety restraint components) are not authorized by Ford.

NOTICE: Always wear protective equipment including eye protection with side shields, and a dust mask when sanding or grinding. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

1. Restore the vehicle to manufacturer's dimensions if required.
   Refer to: Body and Frame (501-26 Body Repairs - Vehicle Specific Information and Tolerance Checks, Description and Operation).

1. Remove the rear bumber.
   Refer to: Rear Bumper (501-19 Bumpers, Removal and Installation).

1. Remove the muffler.
   Refer to: Muffler (309-00A Exhaust System - 2.3L EcoBoost (199kW/270PS), Removal and Installation).
   Refer to: Muffler (309-00B Exhaust System - 2.7L EcoBoost (238kW/324PS), Removal and Installation).

1. Remove the trailer hitch.
   Refer to: Trailer Hitch (502-02 Full Frame and Body Mounting, Removal and Installation).

1. NOTE: Be careful not to cut into the frame crossmember, it will be reused.
   Grind the welds holding the rear crossmember to the frame and remove the rear crossmember.
   Use the General Equipment: Grinder

1. Clean the areas of the frame where the welds were ground.

Installation

1. Verify dimensional accuracy before performing any welding operations.
   Refer to: Body and Frame (501-26 Body Repairs - Vehicle Specific Information and Tolerance Checks, Description and Operation).

1. Sealer or adhesive must be applied with a minimum height of 6 mm.
   Refer to: Sealer, Underbody Protection Material and Adhesives (501-25 Body Repairs - General Information, Description and Operation).

1. Refer to: Joining Techniques (501-25 Body Repairs - General Information, General Procedures).

1. Loosely clamp the replacement crossmember in a preliminary position. Perform measurements to verify proper placement of the crossmember, then clamp firmly into position.
   • With all measurements verified and the new crossmember in proper position, tack-weld the new crossmember in place to the frame assembly.
     Use the General Equipment: MIG/MAG Welding Equipment
     Use the General Equipment: Locking Pliers

1. NOTE: Right hand (RH) shown, left hand (LH) similar.
   Re-check measurements, then solid weld the crossmember to the frame assembly.
   1. Weld length - 170mm
      Use the General Equipment: MIG/MAG Welding Equipment
2. 1. Weld length - 201mm

1. Metal finish the repair area using typical metal finishing techniques.

1. Refinish using a Ford approved paint system.
   Refer to: Paintwork Defects and Damage (501-36 Paint - General Information, General Procedures).

1. Restore corrosion protection.
   Refer to: Corrosion Prevention (501-25 Body Repairs - General Information, General Procedures).

1. Sealing work: All areas must be sealed to production level.
   Refer to: Sealer, Underbody Protection Material and Adhesives (501-25 Body Repairs - General Information, Description and Operation).

1. Install the trailer hitch.
   Refer to: Trailer Hitch (502-02 Full Frame and Body Mounting, Removal and Installation).

1. Install the muffler.
   Refer to: Muffler (309-00A Exhaust System - 2.3L EcoBoost (199kW/270PS), Removal and Installation).
   Refer to: Muffler (309-00B Exhaust System - 2.7L EcoBoost (238kW/324PS), Removal and Installation).

1. Install the rear bumper.
   Refer to: Rear Bumper (501-19 Bumpers, Removal and Installation).

 

[Aaonter]

He clearly stated he wished to not recount, and look to the future...hahaha. My guess 10-15mph

Had to be or faster. Just did that with my Gladiator into a tree backing up. Looking at clearing a rock and was being stupid. Was a jarring stop but no damage at all to the rig. Tree has a new tattoo. If a Bronco cannot take a hit to what should be one of the most solid parts on the vehicle at 5 - 10 mph then Ford should repair this on their dime and use it as a learning tool and fix it. That is seriously unsafe and a huge issue.

 

[Stefanmcd]

Rear Crossmember
Special Tool(s) / General Equipment

Grinder

MIG/MAG Welding Equipment

Locking Pliers

Removal

WARNING: Frame rail crush zones absorb crash energy during a collision and must be replaced if damaged. Prior to replacement of frame rail crush zones, straighten damaged frame rails to correct frame dimensions. Failure to follow these instructions may adversely affect frame rail crush zone performance and may result in serious personal injury to vehicle occupants in a crash.

NOTICE: Collision damage repair must conform to the instructions contained in this workshop manual. Replacement components must be new, genuine Ford Motor Company parts. Recycled, salvaged, aftermarket or reconditioned parts (including body parts, wheels or safety restraint components) are not authorized by Ford.

NOTICE: Always wear protective equipment including eye protection with side shields, and a dust mask when sanding or grinding. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

1. Restore the vehicle to manufacturer's dimensions if required.
   Refer to: Body and Frame (501-26 Body Repairs - Vehicle Specific Information and Tolerance Checks, Description and Operation).
2. Remove the rear bumber.
   Refer to: Rear Bumper (501-19 Bumpers, Removal and Installation).
3. Remove the muffler.
   Refer to: Muffler (309-00A Exhaust System - 2.3L EcoBoost (199kW/270PS), Removal and Installation).
   Refer to: Muffler (309-00B Exhaust System - 2.7L EcoBoost (238kW/324PS), Removal and Installation).
4. Remove the trailer hitch.
   Refer to: Trailer Hitch (502-02 Full Frame and Body Mounting, Removal and Installation).
5. NOTE: Be careful not to cut into the frame crossmember, it will be reused.
   Grind the welds holding the rear crossmember to the frame and remove the rear crossmember.
   Use the General Equipment: Grinder

1. Clean the areas of the frame where the welds were ground.

Installation

1. Verify dimensional accuracy before performing any welding operations.
   Refer to: Body and Frame (501-26 Body Repairs - Vehicle Specific Information and Tolerance Checks, Description and Operation).
2. Sealer or adhesive must be applied with a minimum height of 6 mm.
   Refer to: Sealer, Underbody Protection Material and Adhesives (501-25 Body Repairs - General Information, Description and Operation).
3. Refer to: Joining Techniques (501-25 Body Repairs - General Information, General Procedures).
4. Loosely clamp the replacement crossmember in a preliminary position. Perform measurements to verify proper placement of the crossmember, then clamp firmly into position.
   • With all measurements verified and the new crossmember in proper position, tack-weld the new crossmember in place to the frame assembly.
     Use the General Equipment: MIG/MAG Welding Equipment
     Use the General Equipment: Locking Pliers

1. NOTE: Right hand (RH) shown, left hand (LH) similar.
   Re-check measurements, then solid weld the crossmember to the frame assembly.
   1. Weld length - 170mm
      Use the General Equipment: MIG/MAG Welding Equipment
2. 1. Weld length - 201mm

1. Metal finish the repair area using typical metal finishing techniques.
2. Refinish using a Ford approved paint system.
   Refer to: Paintwork Defects and Damage (501-36 Paint - General Information, General Procedures).
3. Restore corrosion protection.
   Refer to: Corrosion Prevention (501-25 Body Repairs - General Information, General Procedures).
4. Sealing work: All areas must be sealed to production level.
   Refer to: Sealer, Underbody Protection Material and Adhesives (501-25 Body Repairs - General Information, Description and Operation).
5. Install the trailer hitch.
   Refer to: Trailer Hitch (502-02 Full Frame and Body Mounting, Removal and Installation).
6. Install the muffler.
   Refer to: Muffler (309-00A Exhaust System - 2.3L EcoBoost (199kW/270PS), Removal and Installation).
   Refer to: Muffler (309-00B Exhaust System - 2.7L EcoBoost (238kW/324PS), Removal and Installation).
7. Install the rear bumper.
   Refer to: Rear Bumper (501-19 Bumpers, Removal and Installation).

What ballpark would you estimate a reasonable cost is to do this? I haven't had anybody look at it yet.

 

[flip]

What ballpark would you estimate a reasonable cost is to do this? I haven't had anybody look at it yet.

Part is under $300.00, figure in a new hitch at $250ish, my guess labor would be less than one day with other minimal materials. If you figure a full day and don't put it on the frame rack to do laser measurements or alignment, $1,500ish, maybe less.

Based on how bad it's bent I would highly suggest having targets put on and laser checked. Might be some hidden damage I'm not seeing so just ball parking the cross member, hitch and labor.

 

[Aaonter]

What ballpark would you estimate a reasonable cost is to do this? I haven't had anybody look at it yet.

I am serious, have to tried to take it to ford and see if they will replace it and use it for R&D. Ford has been terrible at actually standing behind things but this does not look like it bend at the crumple zone but right at the mount which should be way more reinforced. How it bend is more what I am referring to. Could be worth a shot.

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