BEST ~1-2.X" level/lift kit that RETAINS SASQUATCH SUSPENSION

[Inlinejohn]

I've read many many stories/opinions and down the rabbit hole of information/fear, so I'm gonna try to get a consensus (if possible) of what you guys think is the "best" level/lift that retains the Sasquatch struts and what other changes you think are absolutely necessary to run 37s and save from breakage. Not looking for extreme lift for extreme rock crawling but do want to retain stock struts is important and take Overlanding.

From the many options I've seen the following:

1) RPG Perch Collars (2.25/1.25)
2) Zone Spacers
3) Rough Country Spacers
4) Others???

I know I know...best is to replace with upgraded struts...And I've done this in the past on my 4Runner but I was starting with inferior suspension. I'm assuming the Sasquatch struts are an upgrade and worth saving for the cost I paid when ordering the Bronco. So please no "replace struts is the best". I'm challenged to find the best and safest level/lift to retain stock SAS and run 37s with 0 offset wheel.

Sponsored

 

[Jhuff]

I will be watching and researching this question for other reasons: After I add & make the accessories I want, I will have some suspension sag; and I want to maintain factory clearances and maybe a bit more.

I have read on here that the fabtech 1.5“ kit can be used on the rear as well (providing about .75-.8" lift) But I just emailed them and they wouldn't confirm. Spacers like this at all 4 corners would be ideal for now if true (would keep me a bit above stock and with a little rake).

Ideally, upgraded springs would be better than spacers. Hopefully those will start being sold soon.

 

[internationlriders]

SVCOffroad just released theirs, I went with RPG but would have likely chosen SVC's option if it had been available - they have the best price and lift specs front and rear IMO.

 

[Lurker B6G]

I have looked at many combinations (in case they ever decide to build mine).

I won't describe everything, but the top part (before the yellow) is spacer only. "Front Level" is the full RC or Zone level kit (same net effect) and "2nd bottom" is stacking two of the lower shims (as done on RC's 5 inch lift kit). For the rear, a "spacer" is the small shim from the RC kit. The lower part of the chart includes using the "mini perch" found in Zone's ZONF1221 (yellow shows the front spacer lift amount).

I will start with the boxed area. Spacers only - choosing the rear amount to pick the final rake. If I want or need more lift, I will add in the mini perch for one of the combinations shown at the bottom. Ultimately, non of these lifts are all that major. But, most all of the kits break one of my rules, and I won't do that.

My personal SAS lifting rules are as follows:
1) ABSOLUTELY no more than 1.5" of spacer lift in the front to limit full droop.
2) ABSOLUTE minimum (or none) spring preload to keep the Bilstein shocks near the middle of their range.

 

[PWillette]

Check out SVC's just released coil spacers.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/svcs-new-coil-spacer-lift.42371/page-4#post-1367606

 

[Knownman]

SVC option is for non Sasquatch. it's a 2" lift. I think the OP is after a 1 to 1 1/2" max lift because he's got a Sasquatch package.

 

[internationlriders]

I have looked at many combinations (in case they ever decide to build mine)... and yes, I have problems.

I won't describe everything, but the top part (before the yellow) is spacer only. "Front Level" is the full RC or Zone level kit (same net effect) and "2nd bottom" is stacking two of the lower shims (as done on RC's 5 inch lift kit). For the rear, a "spacer" is the small shim from the RC kit. The lower part of the chart includes using the "mini perch" found in Zone's ZONF1221 (yellow shows the front spacer lift amount).

I will start with the boxed area. Spacers only - choosing the rear amount to pick the final rake. If I want or need more lift, I will add in the mini perch for one of the combinations shown at the bottom. Ultimately, non of these lifts are all that major. But, most all of the kits break one of my rules, and I won't do that.

My personal SAS lifting rules are as follows:
1) ABSOLUTELY no more than 1.5" of spacer lift in the front to limit full droop.
2) ABSOLUTE minimum (or none) spring preload to keep the Bilstein shocks near the middle of their range.

Pretty sure what you're looking for doesn't exist yet unless you're willing to go full coil over, but even still not sure if any of the available coil over options limit full droop. So you would need a different shock/spring combo to achieve what you're looking for, something that doesn't increase droop or change the resting ride position on the shock. I think if someone comes out with a stiffer spring and a longer travel shock that would maybe satisfy your bill of requirements? Nothing else appears it will for the moment. Patience is a virtue

 

[Lurker B6G]

Pretty sure what you're looking for doesn't exist yet unless you're willing to go full coil over, but even still not sure if any of the available coil over options limit full droop. So you would need a different shock/spring combo to achieve what you're looking for, something that doesn't increase droop or change the resting ride position on the shock. I think if someone comes out with a stiffer spring and a longer travel shock that would maybe satisfy your bill of requirements? Nothing else appears it will for the moment. Patience is a virtue

Not sure what you mean. All of the options shown on the table will work fine for me. I don't plan to get new springs or shocks just to pick up 1 - 2 inches of lift. As I said, I am fine with up to 1.5" of additional droop, but absolutely no more than that on the SAS. Many people have added 2" or more spacer kits to SAS, and for me that is a no-go. Also, many people have added 2-2.5" spring pre-loads, and again that is a no-go for me.

The above listing shows exactly what the OP asked for - 1-2 inches of lift with no major down sides.

 

[Inlinejohn]

Top Spacer Lift pushes the entire strut down which in turn changes all the angles and begins the straining process of eventually breaking something. Pushing strut down decreases the space between the spring and UCA and then potential interference.

Perch Lift from the bottom only compresses the spring, leaving the strut in factory orientation. It has been said the spring rate is not negatively affected unless you're in the more extreme offroading needs (then full coilover replacement might be plan B). I think for me the perch makes most sense to retain the factory geometry.

If you're comfortable with doing yourself, the Perch is not too bad. The top spacer is easier yes but what is most important is the final performance.

 

[internationlriders]

Not sure what you mean. All of the options shown on the table will work fine for me. I don't plan to get new springs or shocks just to pick up 1 - 2 inches of lift. As I said, I am fine with up to 1.5" of additional droop, but absolutely no more than that on the SAS. Many people have added 2" or more spacer kits to SAS, and for me that is a no-go. Also, many people have added 2-2.5" spring pre-loads, and again that is a no-go for me.

The above listing shows exactly what the OP asked for - 1-2 inches of lift with no major down sides.

How badly does a 1.5" top hat spacer lift affect full droop/bind of the CVs? I still haven't seen anyone reporting on their CVs and lifts with final verdicts so curious there.

 

[Knownman]

Fair enough guy! The link sent me to the 2" lift version.

 

[Lurker B6G]

How badly does a 1.5" top hat spacer lift affect full droop/bind of the CVs? I still haven't seen anyone reporting on their CVs and lifts with final verdicts so curious there.

Not sure that there will ever be any "final verdicts", more like those who dared and those who didn't.

My feeling is that 1.5" of spacer lift is the max, is based mostly on what I have seen across these boards. The 3 inch Zone SAS lift uses a 1.5" spacer and a 1.5" spring pre-load (perch). The Zone 2 inch SAS lift uses a 1.5" spacer and a 0.5" spring pre-load (perch). The Fabtech 1.5 inch (1.3 actual) level is sold for SAS. But the 2 inch spacer lifts are all Non-SAS.

Not saying that a 1.5 inch spacer is "good", just that I would not go higher than that. Also, if you are a hardcore off-roader I would not put in more that an inch of spacer lift (and also wouldn't waste your time talking to me). However, the OP wanted to know about the 1-2 inch range, which is quite doable (see my chart), but extreme caution should be exercised to limit the spacer lift (not more than 1.5"). If they want more than 1.5 inches of front lift, they will need to use a spring pre-load. Or droop straps, diff drop, portals, new coilovers, different vehicle...whatever.

 

[rtaylor]

I'm challenged to find the best and safest level/lift to retain stock SAS and run 37s with 0 offset wheel.

For sasquatch 37", consider Zone F1221 (2") or Icon IVD4300 (2.5"). To maintain ideal sasquatch performance, minimize the perch/preload lift.

17x9+0 may clear, but 17x8.5+0 will likely require additional fixes (e.g. JKS kit). You might want to avoid +0 with 37's and stay within 5-5.5" backspace.

 

[Lurker B6G]

Top Spacer Lift pushes the entire strut down which in turn changes all the angles and begins the straining process of eventually breaking something. - YES

Pushing strut down decreases the space between the spring and UCA and then potential interference. - YES, WELL DOCUMENTED YOU WILL NEED NEW UCA`S AT 3 INCHES OF LIFT (SPACER OR PERCH).

Perch Lift from the bottom only compresses the spring, leaving the strut in factory orientation. - YES, BUT EXTENDING THE PISTON DOWN AND OUT OF FACTORY POSITION.

It has been said the spring rate is not negatively affected unless you're in the more extreme offroading needs (then full coilover replacement might be plan B). I think for me the perch makes most sense to retain the factory geometry. - NO, FACTORY GEOMETRY IS NOT RETAINED. UCA IS PUSHED DOWN, CV ANGLE IS INCREASED, EVERYTHING MESSED UP (STRAINING AND EVENTUALLY BREAKING) EXACTLY LIKE A SPACER LIFT - EXCEPT THE STRUT PISTON CAN'T EXTEND FURTHER DOWN THAN BEFORE THE LIFT, BECAUSE THE LIFT COMES FROM EXTENDING IT (THUS THE DROOP IS LIMITED). ALSO, NOW THE SPRING CAN OVER COMPRESS FROM UPWARD TRAVEL (UNLESS LIMITERS ARE ADDED), THUS REDUCING TRAVEL AT BOTH ENDS.

If you're comfortable with doing yourself, the Perch is not too bad. The top spacer is easier yes but what is most important is the final performance. - BEST PERFORMANCE WILL COME FROM LEAVING IT ALONE. IF YOU NEED MORE HEIGHT FOR BIGGER TIRES, THE SUSPENSION WILL SUFFER (TO SOME DEGREE).

Sorry, no free lunch. But that doesn't mean that a spring pre-load isn't right for you...

Sponsored