Bilstein 6112 installation Comparison to SAS and ARB OME springs

[kodiakisland]

Agreed. I am working by myself and I have a set of full belly skids that pushed me towards the axle route... and it feels like I already messed up the CV joint. It appears to have separated, but I can't tell.

I understand why you went the route you did, but removing the two rear bolts on the LCA is just so much faster and easier than the route you went, it would have been worth the trouble of dropping the skids. Not that it helps you, but maybe someone reading will see this and go the LCA route. I've pulled the front coilovers several times by myself on the garage floor and it's about a 30 minute job start to finish per side.

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[0ne]

just
Gonna have some Bronco with those bead locks?

 

[0ne]

I understand why you went the route you did, but removing the two rear bolts on the LCA is just so much faster and easier than the route you went, it would have been worth the trouble of dropping the skids. Not that it helps you, but maybe someone reading will see this and go the LCA route. I've pulled the front coilovers several times by myself on the garage floor and it's about a 30 minute job start to finish per side.

Why have you pulled your coil overs so many times? Failure? Tuning? Replacement? Fun?

 

[chtucker]

I am going to put the brakes/axle back together, the tie rod/upper ball joint nuts back on and drop the swaybar. I see the light how much easier it will be..

And I need to get some of that Utah red rock desert sand out from the skid...

 

[kodiakisland]

Why have you pulled your coil overs so many times? Failure? Tuning? Replacement? Fun?

I switched from the Hitachis to the Bilsteins and then to the Icons.

 

[rtaylor]

Here are on the spring specs on the OME and Bilstein springs-

Bilstein
47-313996 - Front
Front Main Spring Rate (lbs/in)- 374

47-314009 - Rear
Rear Main Spring Rate (lbs/in)- 288

OME

I don't know what stock spring rates are.. I wish I did...

Stock bilstein is supposedly 415 in front. In rear, dual rate 165 (first 4") and 290.

 

[Tilzbow]

Stock bilstein is supposedly 415 in front. In rear, dual rate 165 (first 4") and 290.

My understanding is that there are several different stock springs dependent on number of doors, trim and engine. Do you know which you’re referring to above?

 

[chtucker]

My understanding is that there are several different stock springs dependent on number of doors, trim and engine. Do you know which you’re referring to above?

And that is more than the OME heavies-- but as I am learning spring rates feel differently based on dampening.. As I understand it from reading, stiffer dampening allows for lower spring rates.. But I have hard time understanding how two springs the same length with different spring rates support the same amount of weight. I can't wrap my head around the lower spring rate not sitting lower. The Bilstein springs have a lower spring rate, are essentially the same length, but sit higher than SAS springs.

 

[kodiakisland]

And that is more than the OME heavies-- but as I am learning spring rates feel differently based on dampening.. As I understand it from reading, stiffer dampening allows for lower spring rates.. But I have hard time understanding how two springs the same length with different spring rates support the same amount of weight. I can't wrap my head around the lower spring rate not sitting lower. The Bilstein springs have a lower spring rate, are essentially the same length, but sit higher than SAS springs.

More preload?

 

[chtucker]

More preload?

Maybe? Extended and compressed lengths are almost exactly the same on OME, Bilstein 6100s, 5100s and SAS. I think the OMEs compress slightly more.

Waiting on my 6112s to show up for a photo op comparison between the three springs and 2 shocks....

 

[SROC3]

The skid plates cover the whole bottom, more like a boat! Its beautiful, but Is there a ventilation/cooling issue with that system, blocking airflow? And you don't want to remove it to do suspension work. I'm rethinking what shid plates I might want.

I have the RCI skid system on my Bronco. Looks and works great Easy install and easy to remove as well: https://rcimetalworks.com/product/skid-plate-package-21-bronco/

I also go the Fuel Tank skid not pictured above.

 

[BroncoPls!]

I have broken through my analysis paralysis and decided to go with Bilstein 6112s. on my 2021 FE 4dr. I originally was going to try and put ARB OME 3200 heavy springs on my SAS shocks. There has been mixed info if this would work. The big reason I wanted to change out the suspension was because of all the added weight I added. Heavy sliders, full belly skids, 8274-70 winch and mount etc. I lost about .75" up front and GAINED about 1" in the rear compared to my stock badlands similarly equipped.

Bilstein parts
https://tinyurl.com/bdevypye
https://tinyurl.com/2a69tpjz

Here are on the spring specs on the OME and Bilstein springs-

Bilstein
47-313996 - Front
Front Main Spring Rate (lbs/in)- 374

47-314009 - Rear
Rear Main Spring Rate (lbs/in)- 288

OME

I don't know what stock spring rates are.. I wish I did...

I entertained the idea of coil overs, but I am not a high speed desert person and I felt that normal shocks could work for me. I don't intend to go bigger than 35" tires. I just want my stock height plus a smidge back.

I am going to take some measurements of all the springs when I have things apart. I am bad about photographing/videoing of projects while I am working on them. I am probably going to drop the arms by removing the axles, I don't want to take my belly skids off to drop the swaybar disconnect.

Here are some photos to start the discussion. You can see the front end sag... I hit something really hard at Trail Hero at speed. My front end sits terribly low. I am confident that it would have been fine if I didn't have such low hanging bits. I never hit my diff or rear shock skids for reference.

What do you want to know/see while I work on this???

I have the same problem on my 2 door SAS Badlands. I was wondering if I could install the 6100's up front and leave the rear stock.

 

[chtucker]

Brake caliper back on, upper ball joint and tie rod nuts on, axle nut on- will be Re torqued shortly. Skid plate down, sway bar disconnect down and slid back on jack stand just enough to get a arm bolts out. Holy moly that was far easier than trying to take the axle out.

OME spring on the right, SAS on the left. Little taller, little heavier, more coils.

Good opportunity to get rid of some Utah sand.

 

[chtucker]

Well it took me forever to get this done.
Pictures and driving impressions when it stops snowing and is light out.

just wanted to put out a few lessons learned-

1) Using a pro style Branick 7600 spring compressor is almost a necessity. Safer, faster, easier. I am fortunate that there is a DIY garage close to my house where you rent lift time. https://stewsgarage.com/ And here is the spring compressor https://www.branick.com/product/7600-strut-spring-compressor/ I wish I had one at home.

2) Even with the Branick, getting proper torque on the shock rod required buying a pass through socket set. They make specialized tools, but the Gearwrench set is much more useful on other projects https://www.gearwrench.com/products...s-thrutm-6-point-standard-saemetric-mechanics

3) Remove the sway bar and drop the lower A arms. So so so much faster than disconnecting the tie rod, loosening the upper bal joint and loosening the axle from the bearing. Just don't think twice about it.

4) All of the front end hardware is listed as one time use only. If you are anal like me, order it ahead of time. This includes the axle nut, sway bar end link nuts, Ball joint nuts and a arm hardware. It's not that expensive.

5)Getting the front most forward lower shock bolt in required feeding it up from the bottom. There is not enough clearance between the shock body and the axle shaft. I only reversed the most forward ones, I put the A arm bolts in the way they came front the factory.

6) Mark your concentric A arm hardware. I did need an alignment when I was done and the steering wheel was off slightly after install.

7) I paint marked all my hardware and will Re torque everything in a week.

8) I needed my Milwaukee hi torque cordless to get lower a arm and rear shock bolts out. I bought a new torque wrench to put that hardware back together.

I went on the 4th ring up front and the 3rd in the rear due to my heavy winch etc. I think the Bronco sits level now. I gained about 1.5" from where I was on stock suspension with all my added weight.

Sorry about no pictures, but I promise they are coming.

 

[Mikerider]

excited to see the final result

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