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GreyBronco

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This reads like your annual blood test. If you read the column for "Values should be" much like your cholesterol in that blood test, then it will make sense. Also compare the Average's to the actual results. If its higher than the average, then it may need looked at. Just like cholesterol .
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Arnold1

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I am still undecided between 4 and 6 Cylinder. My current order has the 4 Cylinder because most of the reported issues I have seen or with the 6 Cylinder. After all the experience and discussions of the last few weeks, any recommendation which one is more durable?
 

mpeugeot

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I am still undecided between 4 and 6 Cylinder. My current order has the 4 Cylinder because most of the reported issues I have seen or with the 6 Cylinder. After all the experience and discussions of the last few weeks, any recommendation which one is more durable?
To be honest, neither engine is a loser in this regard, however, from an engineering perspective... all other things being equal, simpler is always more reliable, and thus I would expect the 4 cylinder to be the more reliable engine. The real question is: is it a meaningful difference? I don't think that it is unless we start seeing data that suggests otherwise.
 

Arnold1

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To be honest, neither engine is a loser in this regard, however, from an engineering perspective... all other things being equal, simpler is always more reliable, and thus I would expect the 4 cylinder to be the more reliable engine. The real question is: is it a meaningful difference? I don't think that it is unless we start seeing data that suggests otherwise.
Thanks, I think the same way. As already mentioned, most of the reports I have seen with Bronco engines going bad, were with the 6 Cylinder. I have actually not seen any reported issues with the 4 Cylinder. Also the 4 Cylinder engine has been around much longer and has a great track record.

Generally I would have loved to go with the 6 cylinder. The bigger the better and there is not much difference in MPG. I also don't care about the price difference from 4-6 cylinder. I am still on the fence, but for now I will stay with the 4 cylinder unless I see real good reason that the 6 cylinder is more reliable.
 

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Also the 4 Cylinder engine has been around much longer and has a great track record.
Both the 2.3 and 2.7 were introduced for the 2015 model year. Ford claims the 2015 2.0/2.3 were a "clean sheet" block design, though technically you can still trace its roots back to the Mazda engine.
 

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This is what happens when you just beat an ecoboost engine.
Do you expect to get worthwhile data from marketing material?

I am sure that they probably had a 20 min to 1 hour breakin period and then let it rip.
Why are you sure of that? What relevance does this test have to long-term reliability, oil consumption, heat cycles, and age that a real-world engine will face?
 

TurkeyRun

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I am still undecided between 4 and 6 Cylinder. My current order has the 4 Cylinder because most of the reported issues I have seen or with the 6 Cylinder. After all the experience and discussions of the last few weeks, any recommendation which one is more durable?
Since I'm redoing my order for MY22, this too is something I'm wrestling with. When my order was a 4DR, seemed logical to go 2.7. Now thinking 2DR, do I need the 2.7.

Thing that keeps echoing in my head tho.... <story> My late ex father in law was a Ford truck guy. Dealer mechanic, retired to work at Wal-Mart but hung around the dealership selling cars and trucks to friends and family at invoice. I was looking for a Ranger (this is like, early 90's). Was waffling between the 4cyl for milage, 6 cyl for power. He advised me, the 4cyl has fewer parts, and will get better milage, but the 6cyl will not work as hard and therefore, last longer </story>

Not sure if that is 1990's thinking but, he never steered me wrong.
 
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redone17

redone17

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GOOD NEWS! Fuel has diminished by 5000 miles. This current round of oil will be the last time I am running Motorcraft. Switching to Motul 100% synthetic at 10k. Catch can, upgraded spark plugs and Panda Motorworks tune will be installed around 7500.

Ford Bronco UPDATED AGAIN: Blackstone Laboratories Oil Report - 2.3L Engine @ 2500, 5000, 10,000 and 15,000 miles (now using Motul 5w30) 21 BRONCO-211116
 
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buzpro

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GOOD NEWS! Fuel has diminished by 5000 miles. This current round of oil will be the last time I am running Motorcraft. Switching to Motul 100% synthetic at 10k. Catch can, upgraded spark plugs and Panda Motorworks tune will be installed around 7500.

21 BRONCO-211116.jpg
I got the 2.7L ....

I kept the RPM's below 3500 all the way to my first oil change at 1600 miles. (I went with full synthetic Valvoline)
I had installed a catch can at 180 miles or so on the Odometer and decided to drain it tonight, at 2900 miles.

It was bone dry!! I disconnected the line from to PCV to the catch can and that too was completely dry. I then looked at the hose connector of the can, on the PCV end and this is what I got after sticking a rolled up tissue in there.

Ford Bronco UPDATED AGAIN: Blackstone Laboratories Oil Report - 2.3L Engine @ 2500, 5000, 10,000 and 15,000 miles (now using Motul 5w30) pcv oil at 2800 miles


Not trying to show you how clean the oil is, but how little of it there is in the PCV line. Over time as the miles pour on, the amount of oil will increase.

The point I'm trying to make is that proper engine break in MATTERS and it matters A LOT.
 
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redone17

redone17

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There’s a lot of talk on how the catch can isn’t necessary on the 2.7 because it’s got some components that the 2.3 doesn’t have. Any truth to that? Pardon my lack of technical specifics - I’m new to turbo vehicles outside of diesel (and vehicles built after 2000 for that matter).

I feel I did a pretty good job following the rules for the first 1k. It took restraint - especially being the first new vehicle I’ve ever owned.

I received it with 38 miles on it. I think I was only the second person behind the wheel outside of the customer that denied it. I’ve recently been in touch with him. I’ve been curious if he even took it for a spin.
 

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buzpro

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There’s a lot of talk on how the catch can isn’t necessary on the 2.7 because it’s got some components that the 2.3 doesn’t have. Any truth to that? Pardon my lack of technical specifics - I’m new to turbo vehicles outside of diesel (and vehicles built after 2000 for that matter).

I feel I did a pretty good job following the rules for the first 1k. It took restraint - especially being the first new vehicle I’ve ever owned.

I received it with 38 miles on it. I think I was only the second person behind the wheel outside of the customer that denied it. I’ve recently been in touch with him. I’ve been curious if he even took it for a spin.
You need to understand Engine Blow Back and the need for the PCV line .... plenty of useful material on Google about this
Also You tube has a lot of info on catch cans but make sure you pay attention to the ones that back up their claims with numbers and data .... the rest are just schoolyard claims
 
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redone17

redone17

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@buzpro - going to hit the "books" :geek:

I always enjoy this guy's information:

 
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DogHauler

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You need to understand Engine Blow Back and the need for the PCV line .... plenty of useful material on Google about this
Also You tube has a lot of info on catch cans but make sure you pay attention to the ones that back up their claims with numbers and data .... the rest are just schoolyard claims
Excellent points!

If your OEM PCV system was properly designed there is no need of a catch can, and some engines actually utilize a self draining catch can style system.

For example, if you own a HEMI you need a catch can, they have the absolute worst PCV system on the planet, especially the early ones.

Time will tell whether the Bronco 2.7L can benefit from one.
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