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Blksn955.o base 6 speaker upgrade

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Blksn955.o

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Are the factory 6.5's two way??
I think I might just go with a mid driver in this location.
The factory 6.5in is a single poly something (black shiny plastic) cone.
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Blksn955.o

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Do you think the 8ā€ kicker sub would fit under the seat and still keep up with a 10ā€ Im more of a metal head, so ā€œboomā€ base for me was in Hi-School . (Beastie Boys) im old now!
I dont know it is awfully tight under the seats. Plus I think the rear vent opening/hose looks like it sucks of some room.
 

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Picked up our Bronco Saturday 11/27 and Sunday 11/28 started swapping out the base 6speaker setup.


-My thoughts on the base 6 speaker setup.
The basic setup is eh at best and it is at its best below volume 10. Granted I did not get too involved in the settings as I knew I was yanking the speakers the next day. Up to 10 the sound was not bad, it of course had little low end with only the 2 6.5 speakers in the kick panel and no sub but honestly was fairly clear.

Once you turned it up to 10+ (1/3 the volume as it goes to 30) the speakers could not keep up and the highs started breaking up and the middle became distorted and "muddy" IMHO. I was not expecting much so I had already bought replacement speakers and parts to install them.


-Materials list.

Front dash and rear pods are JL Audio C1-400x so two sets.
JL Audio C1 400x

Front kick panels JL Audio C1-650x
JL Audio C1 650x

Kicker HS10 Hideaway sub and amp (10in sub and 150w RMS amp).
Kicker HS10

Metra 72-5600 speaker adaptors for the dash and rear pod

Metra 72-5602 speaker adaptors for the kick panel

Crutchfield Bass Blockers 300Hz cut-off Item # 007BB300 bought 2 sets

XTC 6-1/2" Speaker Baffles

XTC 4" Speaker Baffles

Metra 82-5605 Speaker Mounting Brackets

25ft length of additional speaker wire


-Install notes.

4in speakers
As noted elsewhere on the front dash speakers you need to cut the plastic nipples off that align the stock dash speakers.
I tried to use the 4" speaker baffles but there simply is not enough room so I did not end up using them.
Also the Metra 72-5600 adaptors work but are not exactly what to use. They fit and connect but you basically jam the adaptor into the stock plug hole...it will not or ever click as the stock plug is totally different. The friction fit is very tight and if you are worried wrap it in some electrical tape. The adaptor works good enough. Installing the rear pod speakers is the same as the dash other than the pod covers are different of course.

6.5in kick panel speakers
The JL C1650x comes with a speaker bracket but I am fairly sure it will not work. I used the Metra ones and placed the foam baffles in them and cut around the baffles and speaker mounting screw holes so the speaker sam-ich-ed the baffle between the speaker and the mounting brackets.
*note* I cut triangle-ish holes around the base of the baffle to limit the "sealed" resistance on the speaker and provide a hole to run wires. I cut 1/8-1/4in holes around the base circle until I felt the speaker was not restricted when pushing on it and having the other in the uncut baffle.

I used the kick panel removal instructions pdf posted elsewhere on the forums (want to say by flip?) BIG THANKS to all who have posted great information on such a new rig.

The Metra 72-5602 speaker adaptors were perfect.

10in Kicker Hideaway sub.
I cut and soldered wires on the Metra 72-5602 kick panel speakers. There is a loop that comes out of the 5602 pos and neg that jumps to the middle to send power to the dash speakers. I cut this loop portion to run the hi-input to the kicker hideaway.

Running the power wire was the biggest PITFA of the whole project. It is just under dash work messing with passing thru a 14ga flailing piece of wire and dealing with the big rubber grommet.

I ran the speaker wires and power wire (I usually like to run speaker wire and power on opposite sides of the car but really could not) under the plastic rails along the door sill and B pillar. Fishing the speaker wire kind of sucked...and to note I did have to pick up a 25ft length of speaker wire as the provided Kicker harness was not enough.

I measured the under seat area and that was quickly determined a no go. So I mounted the sub box to the side of the rear drivers side of the cargo area. I used a small section of 2x4 to rest the sub box on and align and mount the box.

I ran the sub ground by drilling a hole in the molded crease of the cargo plastic cover and removing the upper trip panel of the cargo area where there are several bolt holes. I happened to have a bolt for this thread.

-pics and images

Dash speaker.jpg


Front speaker.jpg


Sub.jpg
Nice info on the connectors, I ordered those for my install this Thursday. I was initially just going to splice in.

Did you wire the subwoofer to only the front left kicker, or also the right?

I haven't opened the floor of the Bronco yet, but in our old Bronco Sport that sub placement would cause issues. Are you able to get the floor up?
 
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Blksn955.o

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Nice info on the connectors, I ordered those for my install this Thursday. I was initially just going to splice in.

Did you wire the subwoofer to only the front left kicker, or also the right?

I haven't opened the floor of the Bronco yet, but in our old Bronco Sport that sub placement would cause issues. Are you able to get the floor up?
I did connect to both left and right kick panel speaker.

the door sill plastic comes up anyway when you remove the kicker speaker to get to it. I also pulled up the rear seat (4door) plastic panel and fished the wires under the B pillar plastic and tucked them under the rear quarter plastic. The passenger side i ran behind the seat and under the flap that trims the rear seat to the cargo area.
 

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I did connect to both left and right kick panel speaker.

the door sill plastic comes up anyway when you remove the kicker speaker to get to it. I also pulled up the rear seat (4door) plastic panel and fished the wires under the B pillar plastic and tucked them under the rear quarter plastic. The passenger side i ran behind the seat and under the flap that trims the rear seat to the cargo area.
Thanks. I was going to be lazy and only run one side, but maybe I will just do both. The 4 door run seems like a PITA for both sides.
 

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Blksn955.o

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You could run the passenger across the dash and then down one side. 6 of 1 half dozen of another.
 

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Sound improvement is night and day. The factory stereo powers the JL speakers just fine and the 10in sub provides more than enough base. High and mid range sound is clear and crisp. I am really left not wanting more than what I can get out of this setup.
What do you think of the CL2 x series from jl speakers they look a little better quality unless theyā€™re different? doesnā€™t seem like it though,
Reading the info?
 
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Blksn955.o

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What do you think of the CL2 x series from jl speakers they look a little better quality unless theyā€™re different? doesnā€™t seem like it though,
Reading the info?
The C2 uses a silk tweeter where the C1 uses a aluminum.

The C2 is a 91db sensitivity with a 60watt rms rating (225 watt max) 59-22,000Hz.

The C1 is 93db and 50watt rms 48-24,000Hz.

The above would lead me to believe the C2 would perform slightly better but with the lower sensitivity and higher rms rating might be starting to get into a small amp...MAYBE. Look at the C7 range and I would say those are designed to work with an amp for sure for example.

I am not an expert and this is my thoughts but either the C1 or C2 would work.
 

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The C2 uses a silk tweeter where the C1 uses a aluminum.

The C2 is a 91db sensitivity with a 60watt rms rating (225 watt max) 59-22,000Hz.

The C1 is 93db and 50watt rms 48-24,000Hz.

The above would lead me to believe the C2 would perform slightly better but with the lower sensitivity and higher rms rating might be starting to get into a small amp...MAYBE. Look at the C7 range and I would say those are designed to work with an amp for sure for example.

I am not an expert and this is my thoughts but either the C1 or C2 would work.
Yeah I really donā€™t know anything either I just thought those looked maybe like they were slightly better than the C1ā€™s. but if you said the C1ā€™s sound really good with the kicker woofer, without an amp on the head unit. Iā€™m all good with that Iā€™m not like a super audio file.
I just wanted to sound loud enough to make me happy I guess, I am over 50 now!
and my boom boom 80ā€™s woofer days are over. Lol!
 

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I did connect to both left and right kick panel speaker.

the door sill plastic comes up anyway when you remove the kicker speaker to get to it. I also pulled up the rear seat (4door) plastic panel and fished the wires under the B pillar plastic and tucked them under the rear quarter plastic. The passenger side i ran behind the seat and under the flap that trims the rear seat to the cargo area.
how do you like the hs10? just ordered, already replaced the speakers, and am adding a 200.4 key.
 

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Blksn955.o

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how do you like the hs10? just ordered, already replaced the speakers, and am adding a 200.4 key.
Love it, actually have it turned down from what it could do as it was overshadowing the other speakers. For the cost, size, and ease of installation IMHO the 8in or 10 hideaway is hard to beat.

Thought about adding a 200.4 but that is going down a rabbit hole I simply just dont want to do at the moment. If some kind of 5.25 rear pod comes along to replace the factory 4in rear pods I will think about stepping up the speakers and adding 1 or 2 200.4's.

For right now the JL speakers running off the factory power is fine by me.
 

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Love it, actually have it turned down from what it could do as it was overshadowing the other speakers. For the cost, size, and ease of installation IMHO the 8in or 10 hideaway is hard to beat.

Thought about adding a 200.4 but that is going down a rabbit hole I simply just dont want to do at the moment. If some kind of 5.25 rear pod comes along to replace the factory 4in rear pods I will think about stepping up the speakers and adding 1 or 2 200.4's.

For right now the JL speakers running off the factory power is fine by me.
fantastic!

replaced the 4" and 6.5" with polk already.

have the hs10 on order, along with pnp wiring and a key 200.4. i'll post up in a week and tell you how it goes. will forscan too for the hell of it. thanks!
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