- First Name
- Greg
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2020
- Threads
- 17
- Messages
- 1,264
- Reaction score
- 2,581
- Location
- Wentzville, MO
- Vehicle(s)
- 17 Ford Escape Ti, 94 Ford Mustang GT, 21 BL
- Your Bronco Model
- Badlands
- Thread starter
- #1
Picked up our Bronco Saturday 11/27 and Sunday 11/28 started swapping out the base 6speaker setup.
-My thoughts on the base 6 speaker setup.
The basic setup is eh at best and it is at its best below volume 10. Granted I did not get too involved in the settings as I knew I was yanking the speakers the next day. Up to 10 the sound was not bad, it of course had little low end with only the 2 6.5 speakers in the kick panel and no sub but honestly was fairly clear.
Once you turned it up to 10+ (1/3 the volume as it goes to 30) the speakers could not keep up and the highs started breaking up and the middle became distorted and "muddy" IMHO. I was not expecting much so I had already bought replacement speakers and parts to install them.
-Materials list.
Front dash and rear pods are JL Audio C1-400x so two sets.
JL Audio C1 400x
Front kick panels JL Audio C1-650x
JL Audio C1 650x
Kicker HS10 Hideaway sub and amp (10in sub and 150w RMS amp).
Kicker HS10
Metra 72-5600 speaker adaptors for the dash and rear pod
Metra 72-5602 speaker adaptors for the kick panel
Crutchfield Bass Blockers 300Hz cut-off Item # 007BB300 bought 2 sets
XTC 6-1/2" Speaker Baffles
XTC 4" Speaker Baffles
Metra 82-5605 Speaker Mounting Brackets
25ft length of additional speaker wire
-Install notes.
4in speakers
As noted elsewhere on the front dash speakers you need to cut the plastic nipples off that align the stock dash speakers.
I tried to use the 4" speaker baffles but there simply is not enough room so I did not end up using them.
Also the Metra 72-5600 adaptors work but are not exactly what to use. They fit and connect but you basically jam the adaptor into the stock plug hole...it will not or ever click as the stock plug is totally different. The friction fit is very tight and if you are worried wrap it in some electrical tape. The adaptor works good enough. Installing the rear pod speakers is the same as the dash other than the pod covers are different of course.
6.5in kick panel speakers
The JL C1650x comes with a speaker bracket but I am fairly sure it will not work. I used the Metra ones and placed the foam baffles in them and cut around the baffles and speaker mounting screw holes so the speaker sam-ich-ed the baffle between the speaker and the mounting brackets.
*note* I cut triangle-ish holes around the base of the baffle to limit the "sealed" resistance on the speaker and provide a hole to run wires. I cut 1/8-1/4in holes around the base circle until I felt the speaker was not restricted when pushing on it and having the other in the uncut baffle.
I used the kick panel removal instructions pdf posted elsewhere on the forums (want to say by flip?) BIG THANKS to all who have posted great information on such a new rig.
The Metra 72-5602 speaker adaptors were perfect.
10in Kicker Hideaway sub.
I cut and soldered wires on the Metra 72-5602 kick panel speakers. There is a loop that comes out of the 5602 pos and neg that jumps to the middle to send power to the dash speakers. I cut this loop portion to run the hi-input to the kicker hideaway.
Running the power wire was the biggest PITFA of the whole project. It is just under dash work messing with passing thru a 14ga flailing piece of wire and dealing with the big rubber grommet.
I ran the speaker wires and power wire (I usually like to run speaker wire and power on opposite sides of the car but really could not) under the plastic rails along the door sill and B pillar. Fishing the speaker wire kind of sucked...and to note I did have to pick up a 25ft length of speaker wire as the provided Kicker harness was not enough.
I measured the under seat area and that was quickly determined a no go. So I mounted the sub box to the side of the rear drivers side of the cargo area. I used a small section of 2x4 to rest the sub box on and align and mount the box.
I ran the sub ground by drilling a hole in the molded crease of the cargo plastic cover and removing the upper trip panel of the cargo area where there are several bolt holes. I happened to have a bolt for this thread.
-pics and images
-My thoughts on the base 6 speaker setup.
The basic setup is eh at best and it is at its best below volume 10. Granted I did not get too involved in the settings as I knew I was yanking the speakers the next day. Up to 10 the sound was not bad, it of course had little low end with only the 2 6.5 speakers in the kick panel and no sub but honestly was fairly clear.
Once you turned it up to 10+ (1/3 the volume as it goes to 30) the speakers could not keep up and the highs started breaking up and the middle became distorted and "muddy" IMHO. I was not expecting much so I had already bought replacement speakers and parts to install them.
-Materials list.
Front dash and rear pods are JL Audio C1-400x so two sets.
JL Audio C1 400x
Front kick panels JL Audio C1-650x
JL Audio C1 650x
Kicker HS10 Hideaway sub and amp (10in sub and 150w RMS amp).
Kicker HS10
Metra 72-5600 speaker adaptors for the dash and rear pod
Metra 72-5602 speaker adaptors for the kick panel
Crutchfield Bass Blockers 300Hz cut-off Item # 007BB300 bought 2 sets
XTC 6-1/2" Speaker Baffles
XTC 4" Speaker Baffles
Metra 82-5605 Speaker Mounting Brackets
25ft length of additional speaker wire
-Install notes.
4in speakers
As noted elsewhere on the front dash speakers you need to cut the plastic nipples off that align the stock dash speakers.
I tried to use the 4" speaker baffles but there simply is not enough room so I did not end up using them.
Also the Metra 72-5600 adaptors work but are not exactly what to use. They fit and connect but you basically jam the adaptor into the stock plug hole...it will not or ever click as the stock plug is totally different. The friction fit is very tight and if you are worried wrap it in some electrical tape. The adaptor works good enough. Installing the rear pod speakers is the same as the dash other than the pod covers are different of course.
6.5in kick panel speakers
The JL C1650x comes with a speaker bracket but I am fairly sure it will not work. I used the Metra ones and placed the foam baffles in them and cut around the baffles and speaker mounting screw holes so the speaker sam-ich-ed the baffle between the speaker and the mounting brackets.
*note* I cut triangle-ish holes around the base of the baffle to limit the "sealed" resistance on the speaker and provide a hole to run wires. I cut 1/8-1/4in holes around the base circle until I felt the speaker was not restricted when pushing on it and having the other in the uncut baffle.
I used the kick panel removal instructions pdf posted elsewhere on the forums (want to say by flip?) BIG THANKS to all who have posted great information on such a new rig.
The Metra 72-5602 speaker adaptors were perfect.
10in Kicker Hideaway sub.
I cut and soldered wires on the Metra 72-5602 kick panel speakers. There is a loop that comes out of the 5602 pos and neg that jumps to the middle to send power to the dash speakers. I cut this loop portion to run the hi-input to the kicker hideaway.
Running the power wire was the biggest PITFA of the whole project. It is just under dash work messing with passing thru a 14ga flailing piece of wire and dealing with the big rubber grommet.
I ran the speaker wires and power wire (I usually like to run speaker wire and power on opposite sides of the car but really could not) under the plastic rails along the door sill and B pillar. Fishing the speaker wire kind of sucked...and to note I did have to pick up a 25ft length of speaker wire as the provided Kicker harness was not enough.
I measured the under seat area and that was quickly determined a no go. So I mounted the sub box to the side of the rear drivers side of the cargo area. I used a small section of 2x4 to rest the sub box on and align and mount the box.
I ran the sub ground by drilling a hole in the molded crease of the cargo plastic cover and removing the upper trip panel of the cargo area where there are several bolt holes. I happened to have a bolt for this thread.
-pics and images
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