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Bottle jack won't lift front tires?

Tricky Dick

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It not weak. The front a-arm is just not a secure location to lift from. Not safe.
Good point. A jack is likely to slide off unless you catch the shock bolts. Even then it could be sketchy.
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Stonetree

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Yeah, I noticed it was an issue when I swapped my wheels. The safejack had juuuuuust enough clearance to get the OEM wheel off in my garage, but the new wheel needed another 1/2” or so. I wound up using another floor jack to lift the control arm a touch (against all Ford warnings). To make the safejack work, I think you’ve got to get that screw on the top of the piston just the perfect amount exposed before adding the extension and flat top. If you don’t scrape along the frame getting the jack in place, screw it out a touch more and try again.
I'll have to try this. There isn't enough room to add an extension other than the 3 inch, so I'll see if adjusting the screw helps. It seems like it needed just a bit more height.
 

broncorik

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broncorik

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@broncorik has bought the Saf-T-Jack. Maybe he can help from his experience.
I got the Safe Jack kit with longer extensions:
I bought the 6 ton Safe Jack starter kit. It came with the bottle jack, 3 inch extension, flat top, and curved axle cradle. I wanted to just try it out today. There was no problem lifting the back tire at the axle. Then I tried to lift the front tire using the 3 inch extension and the flat top. Came to about a half inch below the frame. I positioned it at the front Jack point where the arrow is on the frame. I pumped the bottle jack to it's limit and the front tire didn't come off the ground. I think it was close, but the jack just didn't extend enough to overcome the tire droop. There isn't room to use a longer extension. Do I need to use the bottle jack at a different front location? If so, where?
Question...was the 1/2" space you had with the 3" extension and the jack screw all the way out? Or with jack screw fully seated?
 

SubmarineNuke

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I'll be honest, I had a similar issue with my Tundra. I got a flat one that was all the way down to the ground. The bottle jack Toyota provided wouldn't lift it from the "jack point" high enough to get the tire off/on, and the jack was too tall to get under the axle with how low the tire was. Was fortunate that I pulled off the road near an oil change place that had a floor jack they let me borrow for a few minutes (Toyota Roadside assistance was 3 hours away and it was 110 degree outside in Houston at the time). After that I put a 2x4 in the truck, actually 2 (one for behind a tire to prevent rolling), and had to use it one other time. I keep saying I need to test the Ford jack and decide if I need a wood block or not, but haven't gotten around to it yet.
 

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Stonetree

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604Bronco

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I just zoned out I guess. And of course it was approximately 2 seconds after raving to my wife about how great the front camera was for seeing everything.
Yet again, your wife is unimpressed by your wood...

*slow clap*
 
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Stonetree

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I got the Safe Jack kit with longer extensions:

Question...was the 1/2" space you had with the 3" extension and the jack screw all the way out? Or with jack screw fully seated?
The screw was seated against the plastic spacer that Safe Jack provides. I'll unscrew the jack screw so the jack top nearly touches the jack point on the frame and try again.
 

broncorik

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The screw was seated against the plastic spacer that Safe Jack provides. I'll unscrew the jack screw so the jack top nearly touches the jack point on the frame and try again.
Another thought (after I had to use my safejavk again)...trying bleeding it per their procedure. I got more height that way.
 
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Stonetree

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Another thought (after I had to use my safejavk again)...trying bleeding it per their procedure. I got more height that way.
Didn't think of that. I'll try it. Thanks.
 

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Erock

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Another option is to lift to capacity, put a jack-stand in place, lower and add another spacer.
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