Braptor Axle Strength vs Standard Bronco

[BroncoRaptor37]

Was wondering if anyone knows exactly how our front axles stack up to the standard bronco, and what exactly is needed to run larger 39” tires with bulletproof reliability.

Im headed to Moab soon and was thinking about doing 39s, I want to hit the hardest trails with confidence. I know some members have done this already with collars but wasn’t sure how many of those members were wheeling hard and doing extreme rock crawling obstacles.

After watching some videos on how to replace a broken axle on standard broncos I learned that we have the IWE Vacuum Actuated hubs and it’s a little different. The shaft that comes out from the wheel studs is much smaller than the regular broncos 35mm. The splines are also on the outer hub instead of the shaft.

Anyone able to shed some light on this? There’s a video of Loren Healy (I know he’s a pro) running a stock first edition on 35s through Pritchett Canyon with minimal body damage. So maybe I should just stick with 37s or upgrade axles if I plan to go 39s.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

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[flip]

The vacuum operated IWEs have always been a weak point with that system and it incorporates more "stuff" (vacuum lines, seals, solenoids, vacuum pump) over and above the standard locking setup. I'm sure they went with this setup on the raptor for one reason or another but upgrading one part just moves the weak point to a different component, like the front diff/housing. It sounds like the question that needs to be answered is did Ford do additional testing to failure? What was the point of failure? What size tires did they test to get to failure?

 

[Pilsner]

Tons, especially front. Rear could run CM shafts, truss. Front maaaaybe RCVs. I still don't know if the IFS 210 will do it for long. That all assumes that your have upgraded steering. I would be looking billet. 39/40s are a big ass tire.

 

[BroncoRaptor37]

The vacuum operated IWEs have always been a weak point with that system and it incorporates more "stuff" (vacuum lines, seals, solenoids, vacuum pump) over and above the standard locking setup. I'm sure they went with this setup on the raptor for one reason or another but upgrading one part just moves the weak point to a different component, like the front diff/housing. It sounds like the question that needs to be answered is did Ford do additional testing to failure? What was the point of failure? What size tires did they test to get to failure?

My guess is less wear and tear and better mpg, but if this system fails or loses vacuum it will just lock the hub which is ok for off road so no big deal there, but is it actually physically weaker than standard setup when there’s added stress like in a rock crawling scenario?

 

[BroncoRaptor37]

Tons, especially front. Rear could run CM shafts, truss. Front maaaaybe RCVs. I still don't know if the IFS 210 will do it for long. That all assumes that your have upgraded steering. I would be looking billet. 39/40s are a big ass tire.

So easily 20K to reliably go up 2”-3”in in tire size? Dana 60 up front , 74 weld steering rack and upgraded tie rods, and then beef up Dana 50 in rear.

 

[flip]

My guess is less wear and tear and better mpg, but if this system fails or loses vacuum it will just lock the hub which is ok for off road so no big deal there, but is it actually physically weaker than standard setup when there’s added stress like in a rock crawling scenario?

They are fine when they work. Some have had issues where you have partial vacuum, the dogs/teeth don't fully engage and then you end up with a grinding noise. Leading edges of the teeth get rounded over and will eventually lead to weak or no lockup on that side. Same thing in a manual transmission. Blocking rings slow the gear down so the hub sleeve can engage. Blocking ring gets worn and sleeve tries to engage on a still spinning ring and gear. Grinds enough times it eventually won't go into that gear, grinds or pops out while driving.

Even with the historical issues that system has, I don't know of anything off the top of my head that will get the desired results of less drag, more engagement surface area, with a different actuation system. Solenoids would not be good since there's a lot of exposure around the wheels and would likely cost more. Fluid pressure would require a pump, reservoir, solenoids and would be rendered useless if a line broke or seal leaked. Vacuum is probably the best option even with it's historical problems. I think the IWE systems are getting better but aren't to the point of manual locking hub reliability.

 

[Pilsner]

I mean, it all depends on you goals. If you plan on using it hard, yes. The JL/JT have stronger fronts with a solid m210, and it won't handle 40s for long without work. I just don't think the IFS m210 can do it long term. I would truss the front and add RCVs on a solid d44. You might be able to upgrade the rear shafts and truss and be ok depending on how you wheel. If you are going to be banging on it, I don't think the IFS m210 will hang for long. 40s are a lot of weight. Not sure if these drive shafts are 1350s or not. If they are 1310s, I would add in drive shafts. There are a lot of guys breaking stuff already on 35s. Part of it though. Wheel it and upgrade what you break.

 

[Bikeric]

They are fine when they work. Some have had issues where you have partial vacuum, the dogs/teeth don't fully engage and then you end up with a grinding noise. Leading edges of the teeth get rounded over and will eventually lead to weak or no lockup on that side. Same thing in a manual transmission. Blocking rings slow the gear down so the hub sleeve can engage. Blocking ring gets worn and sleeve tries to engage on a still spinning ring and gear. Grinds enough times it eventually won't go into that gear, grinds or pops out while driving.

Even with the historical issues that system has, I don't know of anything off the top of my head that will get the desired results of less drag, more engagement surface area, with a different actuation system. Solenoids would not be good since there's a lot of exposure around the wheels and would likely cost more. Fluid pressure would require a pump, reservoir, solenoids and would be rendered useless if a line broke or seal leaked. Vacuum is probably the best option even with it's historical problems. I think the IWE systems are getting better but aren't to the point of manual locking hub reliability.

 

[Silver-Bolt]

So easily 20K to reliably go up 2”-3”in in tire size? Dana 60 up front , 74 weld steering rack and upgraded tie rods, and then beef up Dana 50 in rear.

Dana 60 IFS????

 

[BroncoRaptor37]

My mistake . This is the only upgrade I’ve seen so far and it’s for rear.

 

[Tye]

I spoke to Dana recently about anything planned for the Bronco Raptor and they currently have nothing on their roadmap.

 

[BroncoRaptor37]

I spoke to Dana recently about anything planned for the Bronco Raptor and they currently have nothing on their roadmap.

That’s unfortunate. I guess aftermarket support as a whole for the Braptor will take a couple years.

 

[swamp2]

I assume you've (the OP) seen the Lite Brite Braptor videos? They've done some hard trails and obstacles with a stock vehicle.

 

[BroncoRaptor37]

I assume you've (the OP) seen the Lite Brite Braptor videos? They've done some hard trails and obstacles with a stock vehicle.

Yes very impressive for stock Braptor. They’re on to 40’s and portals next so should be interesting to see how they do it.

 

[BroncoRaptor37]

https://www.dynatrac.com/blog/now-i...rac-strength-durability-new-prorock-xd60-ifs/

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