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Texasgrillchef

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I see a lot of information on here, and other forums as well as you tube, etc… about how to put 37x12.50xr17’s on Broncos WITHOUT the Sasquatch package. But in my quest to put 37’s on my Badlands SAS, I found very little info.

I bought the JKS crash bar mount delete, but never installed. I don’t have the capability to install myself and everyone in Texas wanted to charge $750 give or take a hundred to do the install of the JKS kit, some refused because they didn’t like the idea of cutting.

however…. This is what I ended up doing. I am NOW running KO2’s 36x12.50r17 on my OEM beadlocked rims. I didn’t want to change out my rims as I have the Beadlock rings put on it, and the cost of buying true beadlock rims is way more then I could spend on buying the beadlock rings ($850 for a set of 5)

I Did the 1.5” pech collar mounts from BroncBuster, and did 1.25” hub centric. spacers from spidertrax.

Those two modifications are the only modifications I did, and I have Absolutly no tire rubbing anywhere Even under full turn left/right and under full flex with sway bar disconnected.

For me, all is right in the world.

just thought I would let others know who have a badlands SAS and want to run 37’s on their badlands SAS OEM beadlock capable rims.


Updated with photos:

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userdude

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Supposedly all you'd need is the equivalent of a 0mm offset rim in a spacer, which is about 1.25". Maybe a 1" body lift if you were really wanting to miss the inner wheel well cover. And the crash bars on Sas are out already; cutting off the mounts I didn't think was necessary unless you had a true 37 or 38's or higher. Just depends on how close the actual tire is to things. The JKS has the rear wheel well bracket, but again I think that's only for 38's-40's? Ford's tolerances aren't the greatest, either.

I think I learned all that on the forum. It's a lot less to go 35's to 37's than 32/33's to 37's, so maybe they're overrepresented. But I think @flip uses spacers, and @Bmadda had a body lift (but not sure what else). @nolimits has also been helpful figuring out stuff.
 

Area51BS

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We don’t believe you without pictures.
 

Bugkillah

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Where’s the pics?
 

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Texasgrillchef

Texasgrillchef

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Supposedly all you'd need is the equivalent of a 0mm offset rim in a spacer, which is about 1.25". Maybe a 1" body lift if you were really wanting to miss the inner wheel well cover. And the crash bars on Sas are out already; cutting off the mounts I didn't think was necessary unless you had a true 37 or 38's or higher. Just depends on how close the actual tire is to things. The JKS has the rear wheel well bracket, but again I think that's only for 38's-40's? Ford's tolerances aren't the greatest, either.

I think I learned all that on the forum. It's a lot less to go 35's to 37's than 32/33's to 37's, so maybe they're overrepresented. But I think @flip uses spacers, and @Bmadda had a body lift (but not sure what else). @nolimits has also been helpful figuring out stuff.
It Seems a little tight on hard turns, and even when flexed it was close, but I will admit it wasn’t extreme flexing when I checked. But then again because of strains on steering components and cv axels, I don’t plan on doing anything where I would need extreme hard turn and extreme flex at the same time.

i have been wheeling for years with various vehicles and have never had to do any hard left right steering while doing extreme flex at the same time.

i guess if I started to come across that with issues, I could add a spacer at the top of the coil over, and go to 1.5” wheel spacers instead of the 1.25” spacers.

or even just get the JKS kit installed. My JKS didn’t include anything for the rear tires.

Also if the issue is with the rear crash bar mount and not the front, one could easily do a partial install of the JKS kit as removing rear crash bar mounts are much easier then removing front crash bar mounts as well.

i don’t plan on going bigger then these KO2’s

all the clearances in the pics We’re no less then 1.25”
 

Hedrock

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I’m years away from having to do this (non-sas, probably warrants a regear from my 4.46s) but any shots from farther back to get a full body view?

I like my 35s, but bigger is better…
 

Gtrekker

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I see a lot of information on here, and other forums as well as you tube, etc… about how to put 37x12.50xr17’s on Broncos WITHOUT the Sasquatch package. But in my quest to put 37’s on my Badlands SAS, I found very little info.

I bought the JKS crash bar mount delete, but never installed. I don’t have the capability to install myself and everyone in Texas wanted to charge $750 give or take a hundred to do the install of the JKS kit, some refused because they didn’t like the idea of cutting.

however…. This is what I ended up doing. I am NOW running KO2’s 36x12.50r17 on my OEM beadlocked rims. I didn’t want to change out my rims as I have the Beadlock rings put on it, and the cost of buying true beadlock rims is way more then I could spend on buying the beadlock rings ($850 for a set of 5)

I Did the 1.5” pech collar mounts from BroncBuster, and did 1.25” hub centric. spacers from spidertrax.

Those two modifications are the only modifications I did, and I have Absolutly no tire rubbing anywhere Even under full turn left/right and under full flex with sway bar disconnected.

For me, all is right in the world.

just thought I would let others know who have a badlands SAS and want to run 37’s on their badlands SAS OEM beadlock capable rims.


Updated with photos:

Ford Bronco Bronco Badlands SAS on 37" Tires + Factory OEM Wheels…. For What It’s Worth. image



Ford Bronco Bronco Badlands SAS on 37" Tires + Factory OEM Wheels…. For What It’s Worth. image



Ford Bronco Bronco Badlands SAS on 37" Tires + Factory OEM Wheels…. For What It’s Worth. image



Ford Bronco Bronco Badlands SAS on 37" Tires + Factory OEM Wheels…. For What It’s Worth. image



Ford Bronco Bronco Badlands SAS on 37" Tires + Factory OEM Wheels…. For What It’s Worth. image


Ford Bronco Bronco Badlands SAS on 37" Tires + Factory OEM Wheels…. For What It’s Worth. image



Ford Bronco Bronco Badlands SAS on 37" Tires + Factory OEM Wheels…. For What It’s Worth. image
Well done! I've been running 37" K02s on OEM wheels, with no levelers or lift since day one on my '21 Wildtrak with no rub or clearance issues.

Since then, I have done other mods to increase my clearance and remove what's not needed...

I've removed the crash bars and added the AFC fenders and in time.... 40"s will be installed.

Team 2 Door = Purpose Built and Bad Ass.... 👍😎👍
 

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Bryan1995

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Can you send a picture of how the car sits from far? I wanna know how it looks from far all together
 

freebob

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I would Like to see the whole bronco. When You get a chance!
 

Rkgzx9leftcoast

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Yeah I did this a few years ago. Have some posts on the forums in threads also. Stock rims have the best offset for 37s , I used no spacers. Have wheeled it with stock sasqatch suspension, and now with just a 1in level kit in front. My tires are a hair smaller like BFGs than other 37s also which helps. It is possible

inbound5385424601436886111.jpg


inbound7873126952775335542.jpg


inbound2526681024130329646.jpg


inbound542085317926986838.jpg
 

nolimits

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however…. This is what I ended up doing. I am NOW running KO2’s 36x12.50r17 on my OEM beadlocked rims. I didn’t want to change out my rims as I have the Beadlock rings put on it, and the cost of buying true beadlock rims is way more then I could spend on buying the beadlock rings ($850 for a set of 5)


Updated with photos:

Ford Bronco Bronco Badlands SAS on 37" Tires + Factory OEM Wheels…. For What It’s Worth. inbound542085317926986838
Your pictures and words don’t match. Pics are beauty rings not true beadlocks. When/if you go to actual beadlocks the tire will set outside the normal wheel bead (when beauty rings are used) and be secured by the true beadlock kit.

I mention because the mounting variation pushes the tire out a little so on tight fitment/clearance true beadlocks may be helpful.

Diagram below shows red marks to identify where tire would mount with standard wheel beads/beauty ring setup. The back/inside wheel bead doesn’t change but the shift of the outer bead position positions the tire a little differently, similar to a wider wheel where you don’t get as much sidewall bulge

Ford Bronco Bronco Badlands SAS on 37" Tires + Factory OEM Wheels…. For What It’s Worth. IMG_1184


Not mine, but this Bronco has the stock SAS wheels with true beadlock kit installed.

Ford Bronco Bronco Badlands SAS on 37" Tires + Factory OEM Wheels…. For What It’s Worth. IMG_1181



I’m years away from having to do this (non-sas, probably warrants a regear from my 4.46s) but any shots from farther back to get a full body view?

I like my 35s, but bigger is better…
You can use the the GrimJeeper site to calculate the effects tire size will have on your gearing.

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

You have other considerations too. Most run spacers or negative (less positive) offset wheels which introduce more scrub radius and causes additional wear/tear plus handling variation….in addition to the normal effects of heavier tires, leverage/gear change and rolling resistance.

Also if you don’t have a WT or 2024+ SAS or 2024+ Badlands non-SAS then swapping out to the HD steering rack would be a future upgrade consideration as well.

If you mall crawl, gearing and rack changes are less critical

I can't believe there is no one out in Texas that would do the JKS Max tire Kit install for you for some of that good BBQ & you supply the sawzall blades @Texasgrillchef :unsure:
My thoughts too, lol. Have family and friends in TX. The OP didn’t look very good, lol.

All else fails join a Jeep group. There will be some fabricators in there and they are notorious for wrenching parties to help each other out with their builds.

Stock rims have the best offset for 37s , I used no spacers. Have wheeled it with stock sasqatch suspension, and now with just a 1in level kit in front.
I also like less negative offset solutions. Less scrub radius and wear/tear effects.

But you hit the nail on the head IMO. *Actual* tire size matters greatly. Some tires run larger than others and may mean the difference between fitting or not when all else is equal.
 
 



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