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fitterhappier

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Do you have a brand you can recommend? I am currently researching as I haven't messed with car audio since high-school... in the 90's. I was always a JL fan back then but now I see names like Polk and Memphis towards the top of lists. I plan on adding bass blockers as well as polyfill. I will want the 4" to have a higher sensitivity than the 6.5's...but I do not know what to pick between 2 or 3 way speakers or other differences. In the end I will be running off the stock head unit (might add a sub and amp way later) and just want some punch...mostly listening to stuff like Metallica, Tool or Opeth...nothing bass heavy like rap. Also, not trying to drop $400+ either :LOL:. Suggestions?
Opeth - my man! One of my fave bands. The Alpine S-s40s are a good choice up front, as are the Kicker KS series. JL is still a solid go-to as well. One thing regarding punch: if you do end up swapping the kick panel speakers, you'll gain clarity but lose most if not all the bass. So you'll want to time that upgrade with the addition of the sub/amp.

Although just swapping the 4" speakers will make a world of difference (just make sure you use bass blockers!).
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fitterhappier

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Wouldn’t it have been easier just to upgrade to the B&O and get a factory warranty with it? Personally, I got the standard system, and while it’s not the best system I’ve ever had, it’s pretty good.

I just figured the acoustics would have been a challenge even with the B&O, as I have a hardtop and no carpeting—it’s literally an echo-chamber.
You're not wrong. I thought about it, but I ultimately passed because I knew my kids/dog would ultimately trash the leather, and I was also worried about production delays with the lux package. I typically always upgrade my stereos in all my cars (except for my old Lancer back in the day which had a shockingly good Infinity factory stereo), so I was prepared for that route going in.
 

fitterhappier

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Where did you end up grounding the sub?
I had a shop do it - pretty sure it's grounded in the engine bay somewhere.
 
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DSRTR8D

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You're not wrong. I thought about it, but I ultimately passed because I knew my kids/dog would ultimately trash the leather, and I was also worried about production delays with the lux package. I typically always upgrade my stereos in all my cars (except for my old Lancer back in the day which had a shockingly good Infinity factory stereo), so I was prepared for that route going in.
Ford has definitely gotten better with offering a-la-carte options, but if getting the B&O requires leather seating, then i totally get it.
 

CADUC3US

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I heard they add 10hp per speaker
Opeth - my man! One of my fave bands. The Alpine S-s40s are a good choice up front, as are the Kicker KS series. JL is still a solid go-to as well. One thing regarding punch: if you do end up swapping the kick panel speakers, you'll gain clarity but lose most if not all the bass. So you'll want to time that upgrade with the addition of the sub/amp.

Although just swapping the 4" speakers will make a world of difference (just make sure you use bass blockers!).
Opeth is definitely one of my favorites...hope to see them live some day. I just noticed you are in Red Rock...we stayed there one night on our way to South Padre Island. Kind of fell in love with Red Rock. Anyway, I appreciate the brand input but are you saying NOT to switch out the 6.5's? I was going to swap out all the speakers.
 

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fitterhappier

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Opeth is definitely one of my favorites...hope to see them live some day. I just noticed you are in Red Rock...we stayed there one night on our way to South Padre Island. Kind of fell in love with Red Rock. Anyway, I appreciate the brand input but are you saying NOT to switch out the 6.5's? I was going to swap out all the speakers.
They are awesome live - I've seen them a few times in Chicago and then once in Houston; they never disappoint! For the 6.5s, without an amp your bass will drop off to almost non-existent levels. I did the speakers first before adding an amp and a sub, and I spent a few weeks with no bass before I could get into my dude's shop to get everything installed. I'd say if you're parting it out, do the 4"s first and then when you're ready to do the sub, go ahead and do the 6.5 at the same time. But if you can live without a punchy stereo for a while, you could do them all at once while you wait for sub+amp to come.
 

CADUC3US

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They are awesome live - I've seen them a few times in Chicago and then once in Houston; they never disappoint! For the 6.5s, without an amp your bass will drop off to almost non-existent levels. I did the speakers first before adding an amp and a sub, and I spent a few weeks with no bass before I could get into my dude's shop to get everything installed. I'd say if you're parting it out, do the 4"s first and then when you're ready to do the sub, go ahead and do the 6.5 at the same time. But if you can live without a punchy stereo for a while, you could do them all at once while you wait for sub+amp to come.
Thank you for all the help. I think I will go that direction for now. I really would not be opposed to a single 8 located somewhere with an amp powering the sub and 6.5's. What I wonder is if all Broncos have a cavity for a sub behind the passenger rear quarter panel in the cargo or if that only applies to ones ordered with the B&O system.
 

fitterhappier

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Thank you for all the help. I think I will go that direction for now. I really would not be opposed to a single 8 located somewhere with an amp powering the sub and 6.5's. What I wonder is if all Broncos have a cavity for a sub behind the passenger rear quarter panel in the cargo or if that only applies to ones ordered with the B&O system.
They sure do, well - at least they have the space. You have to buy the enclosure and install. This guy did it in the thread below. I was originally thinking of doing that, but then went the easy route and did the underseat sub. Still holding out one day for a JL Stealthbox if/when that comes to market, but I'm 100% happy at this point.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/
 

CADUC3US

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They sure do, well - at least they have the space. You have to buy the enclosure and install. This guy did it in the thread below. I was originally thinking of doing that, but then went the easy route and did the underseat sub. Still holding out one day for a JL Stealthbox if/when that comes to market, but I'm 100% happy at this point.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/
Looked at that post for 10 seconds and decided a sub will just go under the seat, lol.
 

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fitterhappier

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Interesting. Can you explain to a neophyte why that is?
For sure! The factory 6.5 speakers are designed to deliver the maximum amount of bass with the lowest amount of power. They typically have a crazy-high sensitivity level in order to accomplish this. The issue is that they have their limits - they sound ok at lower volume levels, but as soon as you start to turn up the volume, they will distort significantly.

When you add an aftermarket 6.5 speaker, you add the capability to deliver more bass cleanly at higher volume levels, but the majority of 6.5 speakers would require 25-50 watts minimum (in some cases even more) to get to that level. Not sure about how much power the stock Ford head units have, but it's definitely less than 10 watts per channel (maybe even less). So when you hook up that aftermarket 6.5 speaker to your factory head unit, they play cleaner because the aftermarket speaker is made with superior materials and is built to play loud/clean, but the lack of power seriously limits its ability to deliver bass when compared to the factory speaker.
 

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For sure! The factory 6.5 speakers are designed to deliver the maximum amount of bass with the lowest amount of power. They typically have a crazy-high sensitivity level in order to accomplish this. The issue is that they have their limits - they sound ok at lower volume levels, but as soon as you start to turn up the volume, they will distort significantly.

When you add an aftermarket 6.5 speaker, you add the capability to deliver more bass cleanly at higher volume levels, but the majority of 6.5 speakers would require 25-50 watts minimum (in some cases even more) to get to that level. Not sure about how much power the stock Ford head units have, but it's definitely less than 10 watts per channel (maybe even less). So when you hook up that aftermarket 6.5 speaker to your factory head unit, they play cleaner because the aftermarket speaker is made with superior materials and is built to play loud/clean, but the lack of power seriously limits its ability to deliver bass when compared to the factory speaker.
Very interesting and helpful info.
Thank you @fitterhappier !
 

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Is the kick panel a 6 1/2 or 6 3/4? Crutchfield says it's a 6 3/4
 

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Is the kick panel a 6 1/2 or 6 3/4? Crutchfield says it's a 6 3/4
I think both (?) can fit - I went with 6.5s in mine and used an adapter to fit.
 

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Thanks Adam. You are correct. Crutchfield said they both will fit with the adapter.
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