Bronco standard sound system 6 speaker upgrade DIY writeup w/ instructions (dash & kick panel speaker removal) & wiring diagram

[Compta38]

okay gang, getting built this week and was planning on replacing the 4 inch dash/pods with Alpine S-S40s and Hoel connectors. Is the general consensus the juice still isn't worth the squeeze on replacing the kick panel speakers too? Thoughts on the Alpines are welcome as well.

I will possibly add the Kicker Key amp down the road if just the speakers alone doesn't do it for me but for now will go as is.

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[mountainbronco]

okay gang, getting built this week and was planning on replacing the 4 inch dash/pods with Alpine S-S40s and Hoel connectors. Is the general consensus the juice still isn't worth the squeeze on replacing the kick panel speakers too? Thoughts on the Alpines are welcome as well.

I will possibly add the Kicker Key amp down the road if just the speakers alone doesn't do it for me but for now will go as is.

I replaced my dash and rear pods with Alpine's, also stuffed sound mats in the cavity. Well worth the relatively cheap upgrade. Sounds are deeper, clearer. I will also say, of course just speculation, but I feel that with the recent software updates, Ford changed the sound outputs (and it seems to be much better)

go for it!

 

[Country roads]

okay gang, getting built this week and was planning on replacing the 4 inch dash/pods with Alpine S-S40s and Hoel connectors. Is the general consensus the juice still isn't worth the squeeze on replacing the kick panel speakers too? Thoughts on the Alpines are welcome as well.

I will possibly add the Kicker Key amp down the road if just the speakers alone doesn't do it for me but for now will go as is.

Smart money is to replace the dash speakers and see if you are happy. If no, replace the roll speakers, if still not happy, I would add the amp. But, my guess is the sub is going to be the best and most impactful change. Without the sub, youre just not going to have any real bass.

 

[DenNut]

This is probably a dumb question, but I have never messed with upgrading the speakers in a car before. After reading this post, I think I can take on the speaker replacement without any trouble. However, I'm now focused on the addition of the kicker key amp. How does that change the connections? I assume that all six speakers must now connect to the amp, but how does the amp connect to the radio? what did you do for power? Could you provide details on how you made this modification happen? If I could get parts in time, this feels like a great July 4th project for me.

 

[RedHotFuzz]

This is probably a dumb question, but I have never messed with upgrading the speakers in a car before. After reading this post, I think I can take on the speaker replacement without any trouble. However, I'm now focused on the addition of the kicker key amp. How does that change the connections? I assume that all six speakers must now connect to the amp, but how does the amp connect to the radio? what did you do for power? Could you provide details on how you made this modification happen? If I could get parts in time, this feels like a great July 4th project for me.

The amp will connect directly to the stereo unit (a pre-made wiring harness will help). The new speakers will simply connect to the existing speaker wires (you'll want connection harnesses though). Hoel Wiring sells both.

With the connection harnesses the speaker replacement is as simple as can be.

The general consensus seems to be running power from the amp to the battery is the best approach. Hoel Wiring can provide what you need, as can PlugnPlayKits.com. I've yet to install my amp - waiting to get my kit from Hoel Wiring.

 

[RedHotFuzz]

I will possibly add the Kicker Key amp down the road if just the speakers alone doesn't do it for me but for now will go as is.

I believe amplification is almost always the most beneficial upgrade in almost any vehicle, but particularly in a noisy/topless vehicle like the Bronco where you will need that additional power to drive higher volume levels without distortion.

 

[Country roads]

This is probably a dumb question, but I have never messed with upgrading the speakers in a car before. After reading this post, I think I can take on the speaker replacement without any trouble. However, I'm now focused on the addition of the kicker key amp. How does that change the connections? I assume that all six speakers must now connect to the amp, but how does the amp connect to the radio? what did you do for power? Could you provide details on how you made this modification happen? If I could get parts in time, this feels like a great July 4th project for me.

Buy a plug and play wiring harness from from plugandplaykits.com. they have an instruction video. It's pretty straightforward.

 

[Country roads]

Couple last minute questions

1) what gauge wire ate folks using for the kicker key amp power?

2) did anyone ever post the best ground location for the Hideaway sub velcroed to the back of the back seat?

3) has anyone used the plugnplaykits harness for the sub that comes from the kicker key? Haven't got that figured out yet.

Thx

 

[DenNut]

as I understand it, the kick panel speakers are wired in with the dash speakers. I feel Like the lower kick panel pair are a little quit compared to the upper dash pair. Does anyone have a creative way to balance these speakers and raise the volume on the kick panel compared to the other four?

 

[WildBlue]

Couple last minute questions

1) what gauge wire ate folks using for the kicker key amp power?

2) did anyone ever post the best ground location for the Hideaway sub velcroed to the back of the back seat?

3) has anyone used the plugnplaykits harness for the sub that comes from the kicker key? Haven't got that figured out yet.

Thx

Audio Upgrade......base system.

Back in February I replaced the dash and rear pod speakers with Alpines. This improved sound in the dash fairly good but just a little in the rear pods. I also purchased Kickers for the kick panels. I hooked one up to see how it sounded but it actually sounded worse then stock, so I kept the OEM kick panel speakers.

A couple months later i added the Kicker Key 200.4 amp and plug n play harness. I placed the amp on the metal brace under the steering wheel. Very simple install. It took about hour and half. this greatly increased the sound to the front speakers and even little more to the rear pods.

Fast forward to couple weeks ago, I installed the Kicker Hideaway 10" sub using the harness from plug n play. This took about 2 hours. The addition of the sub definitely gives the sound system a more balanced sound. I was limited on where to place the sub because I have the rear cargo security drawer. I also added bass blockers to the dash speakers.

This old man is a DIYer but has never ever done any audio upgrades even though I have owned several wranglers and trucks. The plug n play harnesses made it simple. I like simple!!!! I probably spent about $1200 all together with speakers, amp, sub, and harnesses and am very happy with the sound as compared to stock. Huge thanks to Joe @plugnplaykits .

 

[TopWaterHit]

I finished upgrading my factory speaker setup and happy with results. Replaced all of the factory speakers with Kicker 4CS speakers (bass blockers on dash too) and recently the powered 11HS8 sub which by far made the best difference as it was dying for bass! I fabb'd up a sturdy mount behind the driver side cargo trim panel to plumb it up (also made a cutout as well) and wired it through the factory L and R wiring channels up to the kick panel. Soldered all connections. World of difference!

 

[Nelson Negron]

I finished upgrading my factory speaker setup and happy with results. Replaced all of the factory speakers with Kicker 4CS speakers (bass blockers on dash too) and recently the powered 11HS8 sub which by far made the best difference as it was dying for bass! I fabb'd up a sturdy mount behind the driver side cargo trim panel to plumb it up (also made a cutout as well) and wired it through the factory L and R wiring channels up to the kick panel. Soldered all connections. World of difference!

Very nice!! If you don't mind me asking, where did you connect the blue remote on wire coming off of the hideaway?

 

[TopWaterHit]

Very nice!! If you don't mind me asking, where did you connect the blue remote on wire coming off of the hideaway?

I didn't connect the blue wire as I switched it to DC offset mode which picks up from speaker inputs instead of remote source.

 

[Nelson Negron]

I didn't connect the blue wire as I switched it to DC offset mode which picks up from speaker inputs instead of remote source.

Awesome thanks! I have similar components and was wondering, I've yet to install. Thanks for the info, awesome write up! Cheers!

 

[Rocktight]

no issues with clipping here.
I installed the plug N play kit with the extra harness and resister for the powered 8" Kicker sub. I also installed Kicker speakers all around. I did run a dedicated power to the powered sub only but the 200.4 is getting power from the harness. again no clipping issues at all.

I'm doing the same setup, just going with the 10" Kicker sub. I don't have the sub done yet, but I'm getting clipping around the 18 range depending on the song. Did you turn down the settings on the head unit and made them focus more on the high and mids, then adjust the sub? Also, do you have bass blockers on the dash speakers?

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