So you can just pop off only the kick panel grille to replace the speaker? Don't need to do all the trim? Thank you.
You need to remove the kick panels because most likely you will need an adapter to mount the new speaker. The kick panel probably has just as many clips as the grill. There is one bolt connection on the driver side, but again very easy to remove. On a scale of one to 10, this is a one is probably one of the easiest things you’ll do.
What speaker wires did you tap into. On both right and left of vehicle or only on drivers side? What color were the two wires tapped into?I finished upgrading my factory speaker setup and happy with results. Replaced all of the factory speakers with Kicker 4CS speakers (bass blockers on dash too) and recently the powered 11HS8 sub which by far made the best difference as it was dying for bass! I fabb'd up a sturdy mount behind the driver side cargo trim panel to plumb it up (also made a cutout as well) and wired it through the factory L and R wiring channels up to the kick panel. Soldered all connections. World of difference!
I just got theI finished upgrading the speakers in my Big Bend this past weekend and wanted to give those interested some information that may help--
My Big Bend came equipped with the standard 6-Speaker system and I simply wanted to upgrade the speakers to give the stereo a little better sound. I previously owned a 2017 Jeep JK Sahara that I used some Kicker speakers so I decided to go the same route as I liked the sound from the Kickers.
I got 2 pairs of 4in (46CSC44) and 1 pair of 6.5in (46CSC654) Kicker CS speakers. From my previous install on the Jeep, I learned that using speaker baffles was a good idea so I also purchased Boom Mat speaker baffles. For the 4in speakers, I used some Posi-Twist connectors and added a pair of 300Hz Bass Blockers for the front only.
For the 6.5in I used the Metra 82-5605 Mounting Brackets as well as the Metra 72-5602 Wiring Harness.
The speaker installation was straightforward the most time-consuming part is taking apart all the plastic trim which I am so glad some on the forum had already submitted so I was ready with all the appropriate trim removal tools and knowledge.
I have included the documentation I used to remove the trim panels and wiring diagram and well as photos of the install and of the products I used.
I hope this information will be useful for some.
EDIT:
I am adding some pigtail connector diagrams that were submitted by another user on the forum (credit to FLIP). The diagrams will show color wires and their polarity.
EDIT2 (2022MAY02)
I have added a Kicker Key 200.4 amp to my install (zipped at the metal panel under the steering wheel). Using the ingenious wiring harness from plugnplaykits.com. The sound from these speakers now is amazing.
SSV Works makes an upgrade 6.5 pod for the rear. However they seem to be out of stock atm. https://ssvworks.com/products/2021-2023-ford-bronco-rear-speaker-pod-add-ons?variant=42019050848440
I used these and they are great. Crutchfield said they were sold out but I had them in a week.
Did you only put the Boom Mat on the kick panel speakers? I'm planning to replace all 6 speakers and was not sure if I should do all of them or just he rear and kick panels.
I just took delivery on the Mabetts...
I just installed the Mabett pods with 6.75KS Kickers in my 4 door hardtop, with the front panels swapped out for a Sunrider . I’m telling you that because the hardest part of the upgrade was trying to deal with the attachment screws with the top on. OMG! I then wrestled with trying to mount the new pod with the top on…for 2 hours! I finally said f—k it. Pulled the Sunrider off, moved the 2nd panel forward, then completely released the rear top so I could lift it to remove the original pod and install the Mabett. 45 minutes! Do yourself a favor…bite the bullet and remove the front and middle panels, release the rear top…life is easier
I was getting ready to go buy a deep socket when I remembered that one came in the hardtop removal kit….
