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mpeugeot

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If I wasn't in the Northeast salt brine belt I'd be pulling the trigger but that exposed ball joint probably wouldn't last a winter.
Making a rubber boot for it doesn't seem like it would be too tricky. Where I am, rust isn't an issue, so I wasn't even thinking about that. I grew up in the NE and you are 100% correct, the winter salt exposure destroys nearly everything metal.
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Carli-Dan

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Got it. And yes, stock Broncos are fine. In my case though it is a concern since mine is lifted.

How long can one run with your steering tie rod system until they have to rebuild the knuckles and rack side? Can you confirm the miles I got are correct?

Besides this steering system, what else would you recommend as bare minimum that a lifted Bronco will have to do to avoid breaking the rack when overloading or doing mild rock crawling?
There is no pre-determined service interval for it - your 32K number so specific, it had me wondering if you had our product confused with someone else's literature. We've not been able to wear ours out and we have a HARD 15K miles on our Bronco. It hasn't needed to be adjusted, nothing. I would have to guess as none have worn to date. I have no qualms with saying 100K+ on a normal Bronco before you maybe need to replace the Bronze wear surfaces but, again, time will tell as none have achieved measurable wear to project replacement interval. Keep it greased and it'll take care of you!

We designed this steering and have been working on a rack bushing out of our Bronze material we've not yet completed to support the inners. This was our recommended setup. We're running with no rack bushings and still, no probelmo!

I also sent a DM, but @Carli-Dan if you need a local Braptor for development of this I'm keen! Braptor is HOSS 3.0, but knuckles are different than non Raptor Bronco - pretty sure they are straight off the F-150 Raptor.
replied!

If I wasn't in the Northeast salt brine belt I'd be pulling the trigger but that exposed ball joint probably wouldn't last a winter.
We're looking into boots for the knuckle-side as we've had a ton of success with them on all our HD Truck track bars that are run in inclement weather.
 

PWillette

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We're looking into boots for the knuckle-side as we've had a ton of success with them on all our HD Truck track bars that are run in inclement weather.
(y) Do keep us posted on this front.
 

Audiomate

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There is no pre-determined service interval for it - your 32K number so specific, it had me wondering if you had our product confused with someone else's literature. We've not been able to wear ours out and we have a HARD 15K miles on our Bronco. It hasn't needed to be adjusted, nothing. I would have to guess as none have worn to date. I have no qualms with saying 100K+ on a normal Bronco before you maybe need to replace the Bronze wear surfaces but, again, time will tell as none have achieved measurable wear to project replacement interval. Keep it greased and it'll take care of you!

We designed this steering and have been working on a rack bushing out of our Bronze material we've not yet completed to support the inners. This was our recommended setup. We're running with no rack bushings and still, no probelmo!
Lol my local shop got that number from someone from Carli, they recommended rebuild every 50,000km (~30,000 miles). Which for me was a shock as I was expecting at least 100,000km

What would be a normal Bronco? Like a stock Bronco?

You are running a wildtrack with Hoss 3.0, correct? I have a badlands with 2.0.
Would you say I am safe with your steering system alone and no bushings if I don’t go out trying to break stuff and do extreme rock crawl?

Exciting news about the bushings you guys are designing! Keep us posted on that one!! Cheers
 
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Carli-Dan

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Lol my local shop got that number from someone from Carli, they recommended rebuild every 50,000km (~30,000 miles). Which for me was a shock as I was expecting at least 100,000km

What would be a normal Bronco? Like a stock Bronco?

You are running a wildtrack with Hoss 3.0, correct? I have a badlands with 2.0.
Would you say I am safe with your steering system alone and no bushings if I don’t go out trying to break stuff and do extreme rock crawl?

Exciting news about the bushings you guys are designing! Keep us posted on that one!! Cheers
They definitely didn't get that from us... not sure the source of that one.

Normal would be ours; one that's commuted and wheeled on a mild lift with mild tire size increase. The people that do larger lifts, 40s and smash this Broncos in the rocks will have a more "severe duty" interval but that may exceed 100K, who knows at this point?

Sounds like ours is wheeled way harder than yours (as it's a test mule), you should be fine without the bushings. When they are released, they'd be a good upgrade as there's no downside to them.
 

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He needs a 3.0 setup. Shame cause I’m in Norcal and really want this :cool: Norcal always gets forgotten but we are the best part of Cali ;)
Hey! Don't knock So Cali, we have some sweet action around here as well....:cool::D
 

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As I've read thru most of this blog, I'm assuming this setup is for the bronconians that have modified their pony, (ie, lifted, bigger tires, etc) right? So, if I have kept my horsey as is, then there's no need for this IFS mod, am I on the right track?
 
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Carli-Dan

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As I've read thru most of this blog, I'm assuming this setup is for the bronconians that have modified their pony, (ie, lifted, bigger tires, etc) right? So, if I have kept my horsey as is, then there's no need for this IFS mod, am I on the right track?
It's a more robust, serviceable steering system. It will fit stock OR modified.

If you're stock, your steering is fine. If you ever find play in it that warrants replacement and you want to add a steering kit that's far superior to the stock design, have a look at ours.

In a stock Bronco, it's HIGHLY unlikely you'll experience a tie-rod failure that will leave you stranded - this is more in the modified world which is our target audience. That said, no reason you can't run it so you never have to worry about your steering!
 
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BigMeatsBronco

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I'd like to know if this fits Braptor Knuckles? is the bolt pattern the same on the unit berring?
 

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Let's talk tie-rods! One of the prominent issues among early adopters is the Bronco’s steering. When adding larger-than-stock rubber, it became commonplace to carry extra tie-rods for when the factory unit snapped while out exploring. Our Engineers went to work on a bullet-proof solution!
CS-BRS-21.1 - Forum.jpg



Tie Rod
The Tie-Rod itself is machined from heat-treated 4140, then protected with the same moly coating found on our legendary (Ram) ball joints. The heart of the Inner Tie-Rod assembly is a ball joint with machined grease-grooves and a drilled port through to the zerk fitting hole for easy greasing. The Grease-Port is drilled pre-boot ensuring the tie-rod remains protected and greasing the wear surfaces is quick and convenient.

CS-BSTR-21 - Bronco Tie Rod.jpg


Inner Tie-Rod Assembly
The Inner Tie Rod Assembly is simple, extremely strong and fully adjustable/rebuildable. The Tie-Rod is encapsulated with Bronze wear surfaces on both sides. The coating on the tie-rod, being moly-based, mixes with the redline CV2 grease to provide the perfect lubricant to polish the 4140 to the bronze races. If and when you achieve measurable movement, tighten the cap to remove the slack! This whole assembly is protected by the provided boot.

CS-BSTR-21 - Bronco Inner Tie-Rod Blowout with all parts.jpg

CS-BSTR-21 - Bronco Inner Tie-Rod Parts.jpg
CS-BSTR-21 - Bronco Inner Tie Rod Connection With Race.jpg

CS-BSTR-21 - Bronco Inner Tie Rod Connection With Race and Rod(1).jpg
CS-BSTR-21 - Bronco Inner Tie Rod Connection With Race and Rod and outer Race.jpg
CS-BSTR-21 - Bronco Inner Tie Rod Connection With Race and Rod and outer Race and Cap.jpg



Outer Tie-Rod Assembly
On the other end, you’ll find the outer Tie-Rod machined from a solid chunk of 6061 Billet Aluminum. This rod-end is treated to a hard-anodized coating for longevity. We’ve added a billet machined bracket to provide double-shear support to the outer tie-rod end connection. The two lateral bolts secure in place of the upper two hub bolts providing unparalleled support while the the outer tie-rod is spaced between this bracket and the knuckle by the provided 17-4 Stainless Steel misalignment spacers to maximize the travel range of the system.

CS-BRS-21.6.jpg

CS-BRS-21.5.jpg
CS-BRS-21.7.jpg
CS-BRS-21.3.jpg


The outer tie-rod end attaches to the threaded tie-rod via the machined threads and secures in place (and adjusts toe alignment) via the 2 pinch bolts. The pinch bolt hardware is 12-point and threads into (replaceable) press-fit steel inserts to ensure maximum strength relative to small diameter aluminum threads.

The bearing assembly is made up of our CUB (Captured Urethane Bearing) joint. At the center, a 3/4″ Teflon Lined FK bearing which we encapsulate with our propriety races to dampen vibrations while extending the life of the heim. This assembly is preloaded into the housing and retained under-tension with a safety washer and snap-ring.

CS-BSTR-21 - Bronco Outer Tie Rod Blowout - Vert.jpg

CS-BSTR-21 - Bronco 12-Points.jpg

CS-BSTR-21 - Bronco Caliper Bracket.jpg
CS-BSTR-21 - Bronco Caliper Bracket (2).jpg

steering.png


CS-BRS-21.2 - Forum.jpg
Can you give us an idea of the actual tie rod dimensions or diameter...thread size?

will you sell the double shear bracket portion by itself? thanks
 
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Carli-Dan

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I'd like to know if this fits Braptor Knuckles? is the bolt pattern the same on the unit berring?
Not sure, actually - the BRaptor would need a rework; we've not checked any parts for compatibility.

This all looks pretty sweet but I've had poor longevity with heim steering so I'm wary of anything that's exposed to the elements. What does a rebuild kit cost?
We're working on sourcing a boot so longevity isn't affected by the elements. The wearable item currently "exposed" is $35 from any race supply (3/4" Teflon Lined Uniball).

Something like this as an option, would make it a sure sale for alot of folks.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.co...AV7YD8XHXOPle0XMO81y3bhVyUcZtsTBoCyrQQAvD_BwE
We're on it! Trying to find something that isn't so round and matches the profile of our housing a bit better than your run-of-the-mill heim boot. Time will tell if we can.

Can you give us an idea of the actual tie rod dimensions or diameter...thread size?

will you sell the double shear bracket portion by itself? thanks
Material is 4140 Chromoly - Diameter is 3/4" and threading is 3/4 - 16.

The double shear bracket will only be available in our kit.
 

Turbo yzel

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Man that double sheer bit only for a Braptor 😍
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