Clean No Drill Weboost Install (with pictures)

[Smokey142]

Hello everyone, it’s day three of owning my bronco and I figured I’d share my first modification.

I’ll go through this back to front

I started with weBoost Drive Reach OTR (https://a.co/d/9f81IPu) and mounted it to the Hooke Road Wrangler JL CB Antenna bracket (https://a.co/d/ioQOszq). The bracket mounts to the bronco just like a jeep on pax side of the tire carrier. I then fed the antenna cable through the cabin vents and attached it to the existing wiring under the black panel on the swing gate.
From there I popped the pax side rear panel loose and fed the cable up to above the wheel well.

I mounted the weboost box with hook and loop to the top of the pocket (where lux speaker would be) between the plastic interior panel and the body panel.

To power the weboost I hooked up to the pre ran white/orange power wire in the rear and then connected the white/orange to the brown wire underneath the glove box. The brown wire then was connected to the yellow/orange wire under the hood so that switch 6 would power on the weboost.

The interior antenna I ran down the door to the B pillar, under the seat rails and into the center console where I mounted the antenna with the included double sided adhesive.

The only test of the weBoost that I’ve done so far was sitting in the driveway and it went from 1 bar 5g to 3 bars 5g

I’m by no means an expert at this, in fact it’s the first time I’ve ever installed anything like this so go easy on me haha

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[RescueCheckPT2]

I frankly have zero idea of anything you just said, but your install looks VERY clean and I applaud you for that. Nicely done, sir.

 

[CKXVII]

I frankly have zero idea of anything you just said, but your install looks VERY clean and I applaud you for that. Nicely done, sir.

It’s okay, OP, I understand ya! Def a clean install.

 

[Electricjd]

Hi,

This is awesome. Exactly what I was looking to do. Thanks you. Can you help me with a few questions if you have time:

1) Can you let us know how its working?
2) did you weboost kit come with a different power source? Seems like it is sold with a 12v cigarette lighter? Maybe you had to splice it?
3) 2nd to last picture - is that under the Glove box - if so you are making the jump from pax rear cargo circuit to the engine bay - is there one more picture in the engine bay where you make a final connection to aux 6? If so can you possibly show it?
4) last pic - seems like you put the internal close to the cup holder maybe - but inside the console itself - is that right? Weboost videos imply to put the internal antenna as close as possible to where you leave your phone - so your choice seems perfect - looking back - still a good spot for it in your use?
5) any rattle in the pax side rear cargo where the red unit is - or is it staying put/quite?

Any thoughts to share on - “If I did it again I would?” Appreciate your post. Thanks again.

I ordered the tire mount (and a spacer for the spare tire seems Sasquatch has fatter tires and less room for the antenna in some of the other posts).

 

[Smokey142]

1. it’s working pretty good I get about 2-3 extra bars of service when I flip the switch on. Once I hit aux 6 switch it takes about 5 seconds for it to show the bump in service on the Apple car play screen. I should add I’m only running it with one of the two extension poles so it sits flush with the roof. So I assume by getting the antenna higher it would perform even better. I keep the 3rd pole in the truck in case I’m somewhere where I don’t have to worry about tree limbs and really need service.

2. it came with the 12v cigarette plug that I spiced (mine has white and black wiring under the rubber cover white was hot and black was ground. Black wire also has some extra braiding around it that I assume is for help with grounding.)

3. The seconds to last is under the hood on the driver side up by fire wall, and the 3rd to last is behind the glove box

4. yes the internal antenna is in the center console stuck to the passenger side wall next to the cup holder. It works good unless I use the phone in my left hand. When in the left hand it gets only about 1 extra bar of service. If I was to move it I would keep it in the console I’d just move it to the driver side, but I’d say I’m happy enough with the performance to not move it.

5. no rattles or anything. Honestly I just leave aux6 on all the time (it powers on with ignition) and I forget it’s even there. It just works as advertised and say that’s the best part about it

like I said before if I was to change anything would be to swap sides on the interior antenna. It really went smoother than I expected considering this was the first time I’ve ever installed anything electrical haha @Electricjd

 

[Electricjd]

Thank you sir. Appreciate it. Bookmarked your post so I can get it done one of these weekends. . .

 

[SPITmadFIRE]

Hey there! Wanted to chime in here as I just tried the exact same bracket you linked to for my own WeBoost install. I noticed you have a Badlands with 33” tires, and so do I.

Unfortunately, there’s not enough clearance to avoid rubbing the spare tire. The tire makes constant, firm contact with the sharp edges of the JL antenna mount when it’s all bolted up, and there’s no way of bending it out of the way without making contact with the tailgate.

You probably want to take your spare tire off and inspect it to make sure you haven’t worn through a bit of the sidewall! I didn’t even feel comfortable torquing down the lugs on my spare before taking it all back apart. It’s a bummer though, because the wiring back there is super neat and tidy if you make a small hole in the third brake light grommet through the tailgate.

 

[Smokey142]

Hey there! Wanted to chime in here as I just tried the exact same bracket you linked to for my own WeBoost install. I noticed you have a Badlands with 33” tires, and so do I.

Unfortunately, there’s not enough clearance to avoid rubbing the spare tire. The tire makes constant, firm contact with the sharp edges of the JL antenna mount when it’s all bolted up, and there’s no way of bending it out of the way without making contact with the tailgate.

You probably want to take your spare tire off and inspect it to make sure you haven’t worn through a bit of the sidewall! I didn’t even feel comfortable torquing down the lugs on my spare before taking it all back apart. It’s a bummer though, because the wiring back there is super neat and tidy if you make a small hole in the third brake light grommet through the tailgate.

I placed a piece of scrap rubber (I think it was shrink tube) between the side wall and mounting bracket. I had the spare off the other day and I didn’t have any marks on the tire at all.

 

[kodiakisland]

How well does the weboost actually work? I realize you get more bars, but any idea the distance it extends reception? When your phone has no reception, are you able to use the weboost to connect and make calls?
Did the antenna come with it, or is that an upgrade? What I've looked at came with a small sharkfin type antenna.

 

[Tang71]

Hey there, great breakdown of the WeBoost and wiring guidance. Thank you so much!! So, I have a couple of questions please as I’m not seeing anything else online specific to this and you’re the only person I’ve read on the whole www that has hardwired the WeBoost into a Bronco.

Okay short story, long

I own a Badlands Sas with pre wiring and aux switches. Aux 1 (with D and B1) & Aux 2 (with other wiring) have been used for a light bar and ditch lights already and fitted by others.

I purchased the Hammer Built Tailgate reinforcement plus the antenna mount with WeBoost, HammerB also provided (for free because Tyson and team are awesome) a hardwire kit 850022 which has a DC to DC 5v 4a plus but there’s also what could be a 12v with an in line fuse (I think).

Now, I’m no electrician and eccentricity gives me the heebeejeevies so please any simplistic advice to resolve my addled brain would be greatly appreciated.

Do I simply use wire E (white and grey), connected to B2 (white) then attach to Aux 6 (yellow orange) then what provided hardwire kit should I use to power the WeBoost? Also, where would you earth to and how? Would appreciate any advice on how to get this correctly done. Cheers.

 

[Smokey142]

Hey there, great breakdown of the WeBoost and wiring guidance. Thank you so much!! So, I have a couple of questions please as I’m not seeing anything else online specific to this and you’re the only person I’ve read on the whole www that has hardwired the WeBoost into a Bronco.

Okay short story, long

I own a Badlands Sas with pre wiring and aux switches. Aux 1 (with D and B1) & Aux 2 (with other wiring) have been used for a light bar and ditch lights already and fitted by others.

I purchased the Hammer Built Tailgate reinforcement plus the antenna mount with WeBoost, HammerB also provided (for free because Tyson and team are awesome) a hardwire kit 850022 which has a DC to DC 5v 4a plus but there’s also what could be a 12v with an in line fuse (I think).

Now, I’m no electrician and eccentricity gives me the heebeejeevies so please any simplistic advice to resolve my addled brain would be greatly appreciated.

Do I simply use wire E (white and grey), connected to B2 (white) then attach to Aux 6 (yellow orange) then what provided hardwire kit should I use to power the WeBoost? Also, where would you earth to and how? Would appreciate any advice on how to get this correctly done. Cheers.

* disclaimer - I’m not an expert so take everything I say with a grain of salt.

For orientation I’ll describe the wiring from the weboost to the switch

I’ll start with the hot side (red wire)

I took the cigarette socket 12v cable that came with the weboost and cut the end off, if I remember correctly there was some kind of inline fuse. Then I took the hot wire (normally red but this was white) and connected the hot wire to the “E” white/grey wire in the rear quarter panel.

The “E” wire runs to behind the glove box where it dead ends.

I then connected “E” wire to “B1” brown/white

“B1” is just a wire that goes through the firewall and then dead ends on the driver side by the aux switch wires.

now to actually provide the power you’d connect the “B1” to the aux switch of your choosing. This aux wire runs from that corner under the hood to the switch and then back to fuse box, and then from the fuse box to the battery. I chose “aux 6” yellow/orange because of how low the draw of the weboost is.

so to answer your wiring harness question… those switches are fused in the fuse box but I’d feel more comfortable with an extra fuse between the switch and the weboost.

now for the ground “black” wire.
I took that black wire from the cig lighter I cut off and added a ring terminal. I then grounded that wire to some bare metal and a bolt where some other ford wires were grounded between the door frame and where the seat belt sits. (you can see this in picture 4. There Is white Heat shrink where i connect the hot weboost wire the ford “E” wire for power and just next to that you can see where the black wire is grounded.)

I hope this helped

 

[Gtrekker]

1. it’s working pretty good I get about 2-3 extra bars of service when I flip the switch on. Once I hit aux 6 switch it takes about 5 seconds for it to show the bump in service on the Apple car play screen. I should add I’m only running it with one of the two extension poles so it sits flush with the roof. So I assume by getting the antenna higher it would perform even better. I keep the 3rd pole in the truck in case I’m somewhere where I don’t have to worry about tree limbs and really need service.

2. it came with the 12v cigarette plug that I spiced (mine has white and black wiring under the rubber cover white was hot and black was ground. Black wire also has some extra braiding around it that I assume is for help with grounding.)

3. The seconds to last is under the hood on the driver side up by fire wall, and the 3rd to last is behind the glove box

4. yes the internal antenna is in the center console stuck to the passenger side wall next to the cup holder. It works good unless I use the phone in my left hand. When in the left hand it gets only about 1 extra bar of service. If I was to move it I would keep it in the console I’d just move it to the driver side, but I’d say I’m happy enough with the performance to not move it.

5. no rattles or anything. Honestly I just leave aux6 on all the time (it powers on with ignition) and I forget it’s even there. It just works as advertised and say that’s the best part about it

like I said before if I was to change anything would be to swap sides on the interior antenna. It really went smoother than I expected considering this was the first time I’ve ever installed anything electrical haha @Electricjd

Very interesting.... just wondering your thoughts on - if the internal antenna was installed be the aux switches would hinder or improve reception?

You did a nice, clan install!!! Thanks for sharing.

 

[Tang71]

* disclaimer - I’m not an expert so take everything I say with a grain of salt.

For orientation I’ll describe the wiring from the weboost to the switch

I’ll start with the hot side (red wire)

I took the cigarette socket 12v cable that came with the weboost and cut the end off, if I remember correctly there was some kind of inline fuse. Then I took the hot wire (normally red but this was white) and connected the hot wire to the “E” white/grey wire in the rear quarter panel.

The “E” wire runs to behind the glove box where it dead ends.

I then connected “E” wire to “B1” brown/white

“B1” is just a wire that goes through the firewall and then dead ends on the driver side by the aux switch wires.

now to actually provide the power you’d connect the “B1” to the aux switch of your choosing. This aux wire runs from that corner under the hood to the switch and then back to fuse box, and then from the fuse box to the battery. I chose “aux 6” yellow/orange because of how low the draw of the weboost is.

so to answer your wiring harness question… those switches are fused in the fuse box but I’d feel more comfortable with an extra fuse between the switch and the weboost.

now for the ground “black” wire.
I took that black wire from the cig lighter I cut off and added a ring terminal. I then grounded that wire to some bare metal and a bolt where some other ford wires were grounded between the door frame and where the seat belt sits. (you can see this in picture 4. There Is white Heat shrink where i connect the hot weboost wire the ford “E” wire for power and just next to that you can see where the black wire is grounded.)

I hope this helped

This is great, thank you! …and totally understand the disclaimer. Your description is pretty much how I will wire mine up, bar the B2 will be used, as B1 is already taken. I could also use the in line fuse that was provided as a secondary trip. The remaining components of wires will be put aside as those were the confusing factors. Thank you for responding so quickly; will post my weekend efforts next week, cheers!

 

[Smokey142]

Very interesting.... just wondering your thoughts on - if the internal antenna was installed be the aux switches would hinder or improve reception?

You did a nice, clan install!!! Thanks for sharing.

The internal antenna only has a range of about 3 feet max, so if you’re mounting your phone to the dash the internal antenna being by the switches would work, but if your phone was in your pocket or the console you would be close to the edge of the range

 

[Tang71]

So I used both extension arms for the antenna so it’s well above the roof and an inch below the garage door. Too high?

I’ll be placing a Gazelle overland tent that’s 10x12” in cross section plus a 6” diameter water cylinder tank that will go up there as well as a strapped front runner bag. So thinking I need to get higher than those items. Thoughts?

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