Curt Plug-and-Play No-Splice Trailer Wiring Harness Out For Bronco

[BudgetBronco]

No meaningful reply!! Here is the email I sent on Dec 15, to which he replied to to only say that it was received and there were no questions.
"Hi Jeff, just following up to ensure you got both of my emails. Any questions from Engineering? I think you guys would want to treat this with urgency, since you are selling a product that does not work."

I got another 'no update' from Curt. Emailed them again today to see if there was any news.
Me: " Hi, following up on this. What is status? Has engineering acknowledged that you are selling a product that does not work on some Bronco models?"
Curt: "No updates from the Engineering dept."

That's it! This is surprising to me. I know if my company was informed that that product we are selling does not work, we would have a team of engineers all over it until it was addressed. I guess Curt does not care as much.

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[72BroncoSand]

I got another 'no update' from Curt. Emailed them again today to see if there was any news.
Me: " Hi, following up on this. What is status? Has engineering acknowledged that you are selling a product that does not work on some Bronco models?"
Curt: "No updates from the Engineering dept."

That's it! This is surprising to me. I know if my company was informed that that product we are selling does not work, we would have a team of engineers all over it until it was addressed. I guess Curt does not care as much.

Crickets from Etrailer. Multiple emails and voicemails. Just hoping they are catching up from the holidays. Return policy timeline is tight so i just sent back 2 units. We will see

 

[BlueBoy]

Ok
So if I understand correctly
I need a blue wire from c201 drivers fender back to the rear 7 way connector.
what is the pin i need to order to crimp or solder on? Ill order it now

Received the connector list for the male / female C201 connector. The female connector part# for the blue brake controller wire (position #16 of the connector) is F8VB-14474-AA. Doing a Google search I came up with this website for $0.39 ea, minimum 50 (about $19 before shipping):
https://nexelec.com/FCI-F8VB14474AA/
Below is the part# list from Flip for C201 individual pins

Male connectors Female connectors

 

[mcinfantry]

Received the connector list for the male / female C201 connector. The female connector part# for the blue brake controller wire (position #16 of the connector) is F8VB-14474-AA. Doing a Google search I came up with this website for $0.39 ea, minimum 50 (about $19 before shipping):
https://nexelec.com/FCI-F8VB14474AA/
Below is the part# list from Flip for C201 individual pins

Male connectors Female connectors

I assume the Connector exists, I just need the pins?

 

[BlueBoy]

I assume the Connector exists, I just need the pins?

Correct, C201 is in the driver's fender well. Access is from the wheel well by removing fasteners and pulling felt liner down. There is an oval shaped push fastener (see photo) on back side of female half of C201 which secures it to the body. Once separated from body, easy to manipulate connector and disconnect male/female half

 

[mcinfantry]

Correct, C201 is in the driver's fender well. Access is from the wheel well by removing fasteners and pulling felt liner down. There is an oval shaped push fastener (see photo) on back side of female half of C201 which secures it to the body. Once separated from body, easy to manipulate connector and disconnect male/female hald

Awesome I’ll contact flip and give him the business.

 

[VoltageDrop]

Ok
So if I understand correctly
I need a blue wire from c201 drivers fender back to the rear 7 way connector.
what is the pin i need to order to crimp or solder on? Ill order it now

I noticed @flip has the connectors on his website now:
https://www.ruxerparts.com/p-yazaki-terminals-for-4-pin-power-tbct

 

[skoorb76]

I finished this job today on my Base. High level: pull rear quarter trim and taillight housing, install Tekonsha plug and play outside in the tail light cavity, modified plug pin positions for Base halogen headlights, source power from TTM plug (thanks Flip for the pins), ground (with "red wire") to the ground lug above the TTM.

Way more stressful than I thought it would be. Had all the technical information and materials/tools, but the hardest parts were the mechanical things, pulling and tugging on interior panels (and exterior ones such as my Antimatter Blue taillight trims... where the hell will I get that if I break one!!). Just constantly worrying about whether something is going to break, should I pull that etc. Nothing did break, at least nothing too critical or at least not known, it all went back together with no spare hardware or plastic pieces. No pictures, way too stressed out for that. I went VERY slow, had it apart and tested last night and back together today.

First pulled out the carpet/floor, four hooks - 8 10mm bolts and some plastic covers and yank it out. Easy.

Pull plastic sill trim at back of cargo area - 5 springyclips that's easy, set it aside.

Quarter trim - very stressful. Soft top latch plate/prop rod thing first, 8mm bolt, thread locker on it. Then pulled the cover off the soft top attachment bolts just to look down and see the TTM module I need (you can see it down there and actually access the ground stud with just that side plate off). At the back of the quarter trim above the tailgate latch are two orange pop fasteners that come out ok, just feels like you're going to break the panel. There are about 3 or 4 other white pop-its, one in the vicinity of the prep kit, one forward of the TTM and one forward of the soft top attachment bolts, may have been one more. These are the kind that sometimes they pop all the way out and other times a little pop top that comes off the main fastener.

Before you try to pull too hard on the quarter trim, there is a wire/plug going to maybe a TPMS antenna in the back of the panel, make sure you take that plug off before pulling out on the panel too far.

From there I was able to reach all I needed to on the TTM plugs. Pull all the connectors off the mounting stud (it's just a pull) before trying to unplug them individually.

There was another plastic trim around the roll bar that also came out.

Rubber taillight pieces come out easy, 4 pop-its (reusable kind) and 2 10mm screws each.

The taillight is just stupid. Shocked that I didn't break something. I hadn't found on here how to do it, the manual has instructions how to pull it that don't seem right, they say to pull on the inboard side of the plastic body trim to release it but it has one-way fasteners and I see no way to actually free it without breaking it. I found this youtube video and pretty much did exactly what he did
Two 8mm near the door need a small 8mm wrench to get in there and slowly take them out, needed a 10mm nutdriver for the bottom one, and one more 10mm once you pop off the back side of the plastic trim (there are two, but on my base only one actually engages the tail light). These are all in the video.

Everything else was just plugging and chugging as expected and reversing all the above processes. I may or may not have gotten every fastener back in that quarter trim, but it looks and feels fine. Everything looks no worse for wear.

If I had it to do over again I think I would just get power from the battery and ground where I could instead of going into the taillight grommet and powering from the TTM. Seems cleaner to do it this way but it just felt risky. I could have left the taillight and interior alone. But I learned a lot so there's that.

End of the day I've got trailer towing and a 4 pin for just over $200. Happy!

 

[dgorsett]

I finished this job today on my Base. High level: pull rear quarter trim and taillight housing, install Tekonsha plug and play outside in the tail light cavity, modified plug pin positions for Base halogen headlights, source power from TTM plug (thanks Flip for the pins), ground (with "red wire") to the ground lug above the TTM.

Way more stressful than I thought it would be. Had all the technical information and materials/tools, but the hardest parts were the mechanical things, pulling and tugging on interior panels (and exterior ones such as my Antimatter Blue taillight trims... where the hell will I get that if I break one!!). Just constantly worrying about whether something is going to break, should I pull that etc. Nothing did break, at least nothing too critical or at least not known, it all went back together with no spare hardware or plastic pieces. No pictures, way too stressed out for that. I went VERY slow, had it apart and tested last night and back together today.

First pulled out the carpet/floor, four hooks - 8 10mm bolts and some plastic covers and yank it out. Easy.

Pull plastic sill trim at back of cargo area - 5 springyclips that's easy, set it aside.

Quarter trim - very stressful. Soft top latch plate/prop rod thing first, 8mm bolt, thread locker on it. Then pulled the cover off the soft top attachment bolts just to look down and see the TTM module I need (you can see it down there and actually access the ground stud with just that side plate off). At the back of the quarter trim above the tailgate latch are two orange pop fasteners that come out ok, just feels like you're going to break the panel. There are about 3 or 4 other white pop-its, one in the vicinity of the prep kit, one forward of the TTM and one forward of the soft top attachment bolts, may have been one more. These are the kind that sometimes they pop all the way out and other times a little pop top that comes off the main fastener.

Before you try to pull too hard on the quarter trim, there is a wire/plug going to maybe a TPMS antenna in the back of the panel, make sure you take that plug off before pulling out on the panel too far.

From there I was able to reach all I needed to on the TTM plugs. Pull all the connectors off the mounting stud (it's just a pull) before trying to unplug them individually.

There was another plastic trim around the roll bar that also came out.

Rubber taillight pieces come out easy, 4 pop-its (reusable kind) and 2 10mm screws each.

The taillight is just stupid. Shocked that I didn't break something. I hadn't found on here how to do it, the manual has instructions how to pull it that don't seem right, they say to pull on the inboard side of the plastic body trim to release it but it has one-way fasteners and I see no way to actually free it without breaking it. I found this youtube video and pretty much did exactly what he did
Two 8mm near the door need a small 8mm wrench to get in there and slowly take them out, needed a 10mm nutdriver for the bottom one, and one more 10mm once you pop off the back side of the plastic trim (there are two, but on my base only one actually engages the tail light). These are all in the video.

Everything else was just plugging and chugging as expected and reversing all the above processes. I may or may not have gotten every fastener back in that quarter trim, but it looks and feels fine. Everything looks no worse for wear.

If I had it to do over again I think I would just get power from the battery and ground where I could instead of going into the taillight grommet and powering from the TTM. Seems cleaner to do it this way but it just felt risky. I could have left the taillight and interior alone. But I learned a lot so there's that.

End of the day I've got trailer towing and a 4 pin for just over $200. Happy!

Yep, I've been stalling doing my Curt because popping off panels scares the crap out of me. I am probably going to run all the way to the battery to avoid the stress. My other thought is to get power from the 12v outlet on the passenger side by popping the outlet/light assembly out, if I can figure out how to do that.

Thanks for the write up, though you have not instilled confidence.

 

[lenitech]

Why not pull power from accessory wire? Connect behind glove box and connect under hood. Instead of connecting to aux switch just go straight to battery.

 

[BudgetBronco]

The Curt guide says the same:
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded

There was a little delay between letting off the brake pedal and the lights going off so maybe grounding the red wire would fix that. I'll experiment with that when I permanently install the box after I find a good 12V circuit to use.

@VoltageDrop I going to be doing my install this weekend. This part about grounding the red wire. Meaning, leave the red wire as it is going in to the controller, and on the other end of that red wire closer to the connectors, cut the red wire and attach it to ground?

 

[BudgetBronco]

I got another 'no update' from Curt. Emailed them again today to see if there was any news.
Me: " Hi, following up on this. What is status? Has engineering acknowledged that you are selling a product that does not work on some Bronco models?"
Curt: "No updates from the Engineering dept."

That's it! This is surprising to me. I know if my company was informed that that product we are selling does not work, we would have a team of engineers all over it until it was addressed. I guess Curt does not care as much.

Still no reply from Curt, BUT I did notice today that they are at least acknowledging that there is a compatibility problem, and they have updated the website linked here. It now shows that the connector they are selling only works on LED equipped Broncos (it used to say 'all')

No such update on the etrailer site. In fact in the Q&A for the product linked here somebody specifically asks (probably a 6G member) "Will the Curt Vehicle Wiring Harness Work on 2021 Ford Bronco With LED and Halogen Taillights" and the answer from etrailer is: "Yes, the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # C42WR will fit your 2021 Ford Bronco with LED and Halogen taillights. This is a confirmed fit for all models and has no restriction on taillight style." WRONG!

 

[VoltageDrop]

@VoltageDrop I going to be doing my install this weekend. This part about grounding the red wire. Meaning, leave the red wire as it is going in to the controller, and on the other end of that red wire closer to the connectors, cut the red wire and attach it to ground?

Correct. I cut mine right before it splits to the two connectors.

 

[805BaseSquatch]

I’ve been trying to make sense of all this, and I don’t have my Bronco yet so it’s a bit harder.
I have a 2022 Base Sasquatch on order, without the factory tow option.

I will absolutely need a 4-pin for my camping trailer.

will this curt harness work with the 2022 Base? I’m not sure which ones have the halogen and LED.

 

[VoltageDrop]

I’ve been trying to make sense of all this, and I don’t have my Bronco yet so it’s a bit harder.
I have a 2022 Base Sasquatch on order, without the factory tow option.

I will absolutely need a 4-pin for my camping trailer.

will this curt harness work with the 2022 Base? I’m not sure which ones have the halogen and LED.

Base has halogen and it will work for you with a little connector pin swapping, assuming Curt doesn't release a special halogen version before then.

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