Curt Plug-and-Play No-Splice Trailer Wiring Harness Out For Bronco

[zerk4321]

On another thread, someone had a link on Etrailer to C42WR. That’s what I ordered. They said that it worked perfectly. I don’t have a Bronco yet to try it out.

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[72BroncoSand]

On another thread, someone had a link on Etrailer to C42WR. That’s what I ordered. They said that it worked perfectly. I don’t have a Bronco yet to try it out.

Let us know if it works on a base.

 

[VoltageDrop]

Hey, I bought the Tekonsha unit for my base and it does not work as of yet. Currently going back and forth with Etrailer to figure it out. But I noticed a difference in wires in plugs for non-LED taillights and LED tail lights. I'll add some pics shortly.

Well, bummer! I was hoping to finally have time to install my Tekonsha kit next week but I'm glad you saved me the first-hand disappointment. Based on this diagram posted on another thread, it appears the base combines the stop and turn into one wire which I assume must differ on the LED models. The converter box is going to combine stop and turn into one output anyway so maybe we can omit the converter brake wire and move the turn (yellow and green) wires over to the GN-BN and GY-VT wire positions in the connectors? It ultimately sounds like base doesn't need a "box" but I would still like to use the pass-through connectors instead of splicing into OEM wiring.

 

[KAQ]

Does any of the paperwork list how many amps the power line pulls?

 

[skoorb76]

Well, bummer! I was hoping to finally have time to install my Tekonsha kit next week but I'm glad you saved me the first-hand disappointment. Based on this diagram posted on another thread, it appears the base combines the stop and turn into one wire which I assume must differ on the LED models. The converter box is going to combine stop and turn into one output anyway so maybe we can omit the converter brake wire and move the turn (yellow and green) wires over to the GN-BN and GY-VT wire positions in the connectors? It ultimately sounds like base doesn't need a "box" but I would still like to use the pass-through connectors instead of splicing into OEM wiring.

Editing this whole post... looking at this again. My initial thought was based on the diagrams that since it appears that everything is coming from the same outputs of the BCM between the Halogen and LED, and that it appears the only difference is that the LED adds a separate Stop and Turn vs. combined in the Halogen... that simply moving the turn wires to the right place in the plug/play connector and abandoning/grounding the stop input should do it. (looks like it probably works too, based on the other feedback of both lights flashing etc.)

However now I'm wondering about the box itself and whether it is adequate to use in that way. Based on this, the Halogen are PWM and the LED are NON-PWM. Is the plug/play box capable of both? there are no specs.

E-Trailer says to go with a different converter that specifically calls out PWM, circuit protection, etc. but is not plug/play...https://www.etrailer.com/partlist.aspx?pc=119190KIT&csrId=1843 ... but I am NOT cutting factory wires yet (or I would have bought the Ford box).

I am half thinking about buying the cheaper version of this plug/play kit just so I can get the 4 plugs and jumper wires and using it to wire in the Ford accessory box just to be on the safe side with everything.

How fast do you think Curt and Tekonsha will adjust the Plug/Play for Halogen?

 

[skoorb76]

Curt wiring harness #56468 does not work on Base (non-LED) taillights either! I tested it today. Left turn signal makes both Left and Right trailer lights blink, right turn signal doesn't make any trailer lights blink.

Looks like the Curt is set up to take Park (pin 2), Stop (Pin 3), and Turn (Pin 5) from the left, and only Turn (Pin 5) from the right.

Makes sense why the trailer lights both come on when you turn left, because on the Base the combined left Stop/Turn is on Pin 3... the converter is thinking Brake Lights when your left turn is on.
Also makes sense that the right side should not do anything, because that side is only connected to Pin 5, which is the turn for the LED's but nothing for the base (needs to be Pin 3).

Your park and running lights DO work, correct? (Pin 2 is park signal for both LED and Halogen)

 

[BudgetBronco]

Does any of the paperwork list how many amps the power line pulls?

On the instruction sheet it says:
Signal circuits 3.0-amps per side
Tail / Running Circuits 6.0-amps total

 

[BudgetBronco]

Looks like the Curt is set up to take Park (pin 2), Stop (Pin 3), and Turn (Pin 5) from the left, and only Turn (Pin 5) from the right.

Makes sense why the trailer lights both come on when you turn left, because on the Base the combined left Stop/Turn is on Pin 3... the converter is thinking Brake Lights when your left turn is on.
Also makes sense that the right side should not do anything, because that side is only connected to Pin 5, which is the turn for the LED's but nothing for the base (needs to be Pin 3).

Your park and running lights DO work, correct? (Pin 2 is park signal for both LED and Halogen)

Correct, those DO work.
If you can figure out a way to make this work that would be awesome!

 

[BudgetBronco]

On another thread, someone had a link on Etrailer to C42WR. That’s what I ordered. They said that it worked perfectly. I don’t have a Bronco yet to try it out.

I hope you are right but I am skeptical, I just looked at C42WR on Etrailer and it looks like the exact same thing as Curt #56468

 

[skoorb76]

Correct, those DO work.
If you can figure out a way to make this work that would be awesome!

My original thought would be to cut the red on pin 3 and ground the red input wire to the controller, and to move both the yellow signal on the left and green signal on the right from pin 5 to pin 3 on each side. That's where the turn signals are for the base.

I thought better of it when I looked at the equipment guide and it mentioned that the LED are non-PWM and the halogen are PWM... the converter does need to handle that difference. They don't seem to provide specs for the controller included with the plug and play.

However, yours are working (running lights as well as the blinkers although responding to the wrong signal), so simply moving the wires to the right spots probably will work fine. But I'm not telling you that you should do it LOL.

I did put a query in to Tekonsha to see what they say

 

[72BroncoSand]

I hope you are right but I am skeptical, I just looked at C42WR on Etrailer and it looks like the exact same thing as Curt #56468

I suspect you are right. Looks like C42WR is a etrailer item #. Etrailer sent me a link to order Curt#56468 based on my Vin after I informed them the the more expensive unit did not work. Hopefully a solution is figured out by one of you wiring gurus. My brain freezes when I look at that diagram.

 

[Exomodo]

I would put a posi-tap on the Curt wiring to a relay to drive some reverse lights, I would probably add in a diode so that the lights can be triggered by the reverse lights or an Aux switch. I am just getting soft about putting a positap on factory wiring... Though I usually drill bigger wholes in new cars, they are not mine.

Or get an extension 4-way cable, shorten it and wire in a tap so your not disrupting the expensive Curt system with crap wire taps... Sacrifice a cheap add-on if you must.

Curt 4 way extension, $7

 

[chtucker]

Or get an extension 4-way cable, shorten it and wire in a tap so your not disrupting the expensive Curt system with crap wire taps... Sacrifice a cheap add-on if you must.

Curt 4 way extension, $7

Yep, posi taps a bit different than the normal scotch locks but yes.

but no- there is no reverse light in a 4 wire setup... you can't get a trigger for reverse lights if it's not there.

You can do what you are talking about with a 7 pin though

 

[VoltageDrop]

Editing this whole post... looking at this again. My initial thought was based on the diagrams that since it appears that everything is coming from the same outputs of the BCM between the Halogen and LED, and that it appears the only difference is that the LED adds a separate Stop and Turn vs. combined in the Halogen... that simply moving the turn wires to the right place in the plug/play connector and abandoning/grounding the stop input should do it. (looks like it probably works too, based on the other feedback of both lights flashing etc.)

However now I'm wondering about the box itself and whether it is adequate to use in that way. Based on this, the Halogen are PWM and the LED are NON-PWM. Is the plug/play box capable of both? there are no specs.

E-Trailer says to go with a different converter that specifically calls out PWM, circuit protection, etc. but is not plug/play...https://www.etrailer.com/partlist.aspx?pc=119190KIT&csrId=1843 ... but I am NOT cutting factory wires yet (or I would have bought the Ford box).

I am half thinking about buying the cheaper version of this plug/play kit just so I can get the 4 plugs and jumper wires and using it to wire in the Ford accessory box just to be on the safe side with everything.

How fast do you think Curt and Tekonsha will adjust the Plug/Play for Halogen?

Why would halogen use PWM and LED not use it? This is all very strange to me and now I'll have to get out my oscilloscope to witness this PWM signal driving my antiquated incandescent tail light bulbs

I'll probably switch the wires around and see if it works. This massive document from Molex covers removing the pins on pages 37 to 43. A 1.5mm tool of some sort is needed.
https://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/as/AS-33472-100-001.pdf

 

[Exomodo]

Yep, posi taps a bit different than the normal scotch locks but yes.

but no- there is no reverse light in a 4 wire setup... you can't get a trigger for reverse lights if it's not there.

You can do what you are talking about with a 7 pin though

Sorry, zeroed in on the taping so much so I neglected the reverse issue. I despise wiring hackery so, but Ford has inflicted the Bronco with such a compromised system it just irks me to no end. Grrr...

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