Dealer insists it’s 6 quarts for oil change on my 2.7L

BroncoB

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And you have the original H stick and it out you at the top of the hash mark, yes? How many miles did you run with 7?
Yes, top of hash marks. You would laugh at how ridiculously few miles I've driven it. I've been hoping Ford sorts out the RUD issues and oil issues. My OCD is getting the better of me on this vehicle because it is a FE and I DO NOT want the engine replaced. I want to keep it for a long time with the original engine, as does my son who wants to inherit it some day with the original engine. If the engine goes the whole car goes.


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broncorik

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Yes, top of hash marks. You would laugh at how ridiculously few miles I've driven it. I've been hoping Ford sorts out the RUD issues and oil issues. My OCD is getting the better of me on this vehicle because it is a FE and I DO NOT want the engine replaced. I want to keep it for a long time with the original engine, as does my son who wants to inherit it some day with the original engine. If the engine goes the whole car goes.
I am about as OCD as it gets when it comes to automotive stuff...currently I am at about 4k since taking delivery in October. I dumped the initial oil early, inspected the pleats in the filter, changed front and rear diff fluid, and the t-case (snythetic for all three units). I also chose to go with Amsoil synthetic for the engine (not for the marketing hype but because of independent lab results regarding turbo/heat protection from non-Amsoil affiliated testing). I too hope my engine/Bronco stays together. I lost sleep over the fact that before I picked it up it had 25 miles on it, and I immediately suspected that the lag in the arrival time to the dealer and the dealer contacting me that it had been joyridden (so I had no control over break in). I also immediately installed the auto start stopper so as not to have my engine shut off without letting the engine ideal for at least a minute to let the oil in the turbo lines circulate...
 

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TBH, I don’t know which plant does factory dry fills? :unsure:

I assumed that it would be MAP, not Lima, with only assembly lube being applied at Lima, and all factory dry fills being done at MAP (e.g., engine oil, engine coolant, wiper fluid, A/C refrigerant, gasoline). It would seem unlikely that a vendor would ship fuel tanks partially filled with gasoline to MAP just to shave a few seconds off of JIT manufacturing, so there must be a fluid fill station somewhere in the assembly sequence at MAP, at least for gasoline, and presumably for other fluids, too. 🤷‍♂️

If that assumption is wrong, hopefully someone will correct me.
Good point. Shipping engines filled with oil to MAP could run into regulations (hazardous materials?) and may be more expensive. Spilled oil from engines during shipping would not look good.
Properly crated, maybe no issue until there is an accident.

I'm glad this is all cleared up! LOL
 

broncorik

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The Bronco will have a strong aftermarket, so maybe just a matter of time.

One of the reasons I switched from the mercedes G to the Bronco was aftermarket support. There is little available for the G, especially in the USA, and usually just 1 option.
Thankfully it was more than capable and robust from the factory and just needed some spring spacers and bigger tires.
Similar route...I had. Gwagen I loved but even a a mechanic and having a source to get parts at just above cost the final straw was when I needed to get a replacement headliner (because the clips that retained it to the sunroof frame broke during removal to get at the sunroof motor and linkage waaaay in the back) and almost fell over when I realized the headliner is 2000 dollars...and then I would have had to install it. The parts costs are nutty. I did love that the build quality was outstanding, however. The other thing is most people with a Gwagen cringe at the thought of hard wheeling because of the potential damage to a $$$$ vehicle. I also wanted to get more tire under mine but far too much of a PITA to source and install a proper lift without a bunch of other changes.
 

BroncoB

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I am about as OCD as it gets when it comes to automotive stuff...currently I am at about 4k since taking delivery in October. I dumped the initial oil early, inspected the pleats in the filter, changed front and rear diff fluid, and the t-case (snythetic for all three units). I also chose to go with Amsoil synthetic for the engine (not for the marketing hype but because of independent lab results regarding turbo/heat protection from non-Amsoil affiliated testing). I too hope my engine/Bronco stays together. I lost sleep over the fact that before I picked it up it had 25 miles on it, and I immediately suspected that the lag in the arrival time to the dealer and the dealer contacting me that it had been joyridden (so I had no control over break in). I also immediately installed the auto start stopper so as not to have my engine shut off without letting the engine ideal for at least a minute to let the oil in the turbo lines circulate...
Shit, we're even more alike than I thought before. I did the front diff and t-case too. I didn't do the rear because I didn't want to break the seal popping the cover off. I really wish they would put a drain plug on there. I think there are aftermarket covers with drain plugs, and some day I'll probably do that with the oil change. Weird how the front diff uses rear fluid. I too fretted over someone joyriding it. I haven't had the time to dwell over the ass yet. For some reason ass has never bothered me. I like the thought of having better fuel management and saying ass.
 

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broncorik

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Yes, 7 quarts Motorcraft synthetic. Should I drain a quart out so it doesn't show overfill anymore? Who knows... that SSM said 7 quarts doesn't matter. So confusing.
I have the OEM stick, the Raptor stick, and the C stick and I am choosing to run the C stick and to go with 6 quarts. My rationale is this:

Unlike some conspiracy theorists, I think Ford is NOT just trying to "save money on sending us new sticks" by coming up with a 6 quart versus 7 quart capacity directive. If that was the case, they wouldn't have (albeit for a very brief moment) have listed 2 additional 7 quart sticks) but then deleted them and added the CURRENT C stick to the catalog (as the ONLY listing for the 2.7). It isn't costing them anything for any stick, because Instead of sending whatever stick it is to us, they are leaving it up to us to decide whether or not we want to get one. I can't fathom that an auto manufacturer would reduce the amount of a stated oil capacity just to "save money on stick" as some have proposed (especially when Ford isn't replacing them for those of us who already have a Bronco). So with that I will throw caution to the wind, take screenshots of the SSM/new manual in HTML/PDF that indicate 6 quarts, keep my receipt from the dealership from my C stick purchase, and hope for the best at 6 quarts. If Ford changes their mind back to 7, which I doubt they will (more likely that the Raptor will catch up and they will adjust THAT oil capacity while they are at it...it took almost a year for the 2.7), at least I have a souvenir 7 quart stick.
 

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Good point. Shipping engines filled with oil to MAP could run into regulations (hazardous materials?) and may be more expensive. Spilled oil from engines during shipping would not look good.
Properly crated, maybe no issue until there is an accident.

I'm glad this is all cleared up! LOL
Yeah, clear as mud, right? 😜

Maybe one of the service techs here can answer whether (1) a crate engine or long block is typically delivered to a dealership already filled with oil, or (2) the dry fill is typically performed at the dealership?
 

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Remember this little gem posted on Bronco Nation last year?

And there is a new thread discussing this issue on a motor oil forum.
Precisely why I’m still running 7. That’s what I measured coming out on the first change and I’m sticking to it. Ford probably figured 70% of Broncos will never even see a dirt road so change the manuals and save a few bucks on the proper dipstick.
 

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Shit, we're even more alike than I thought before. I did the front diff and t-case too. I didn't do the rear because I didn't want to break the seal popping the cover off. I really wish they would put a drain plug on there. I think there are aftermarket covers with drain plugs, and some day I'll probably do that with the oil change. Weird how the front diff uses rear fluid. I too fretted over someone joyriding it. I haven't had the time to dwell over the ass yet. For some reason ass has never bothered me. I like the thought of having better fuel management and saying ass.
You will be thrilled to know that the rear diff gasket is reusable...with my OCD I didn't want to believe it, so I bought another one, but sure enough the Ford service manual indicates to reuse it unless signs of damage. No RTV or sealant is in there. Your OCD should note that there were some particles on the drain plug...better get those out of there...

I was going to do the transmission, but Flip shared the the "filter" is really more of a "screen" and that dumping just the pan won't get very mu h fluid out...and I can't be bothered with flushing it from the cooler lines (I don't think there is a drain on the converter).
 
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BroncoB

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You will be thrilled to know that the rear diff gasket is reusable...with my OCD I didn't want to believe it, so I bought another one, but sure enough the Ford service manual indicates to resume it unless signs of damage. No RTV or sealant is in there. Your OCD should note that there were some particles on the drain plug...better get those out of there...

I was going to do the transmission, but Flip shared the the "filter" is really more of a "screen" and that dumping just the pan won't get very mu h fluid out...and I can't be bothered with flushing it from the cooler lines (I don't think there is a drain on the converter).
Dammit! I was perfectly content with leaving the rear diff alone. Particles? I assume you meant on the fill plug but now I have to change it.
 

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Precisely why I’m still running 7. That’s what I measured coming out on the first change and I’m sticking to it. Ford probably figured 70% of Broncos will never even see a dirt road so change the manuals and save a few bucks on the proper dipstick.
That is just it...think about it...Ford is NOT saving any money on dipsticks by listing a new oil capacity. If anything, they are saving some anguish by not having everyone run to the dealer for an oil drain...hence the "running 7 won't hurt the engine" disclaimer...but they already changed stick iterations THREE times. With every change, it cost them nothing, because they didn't send out any of those sticks (they simply found sticks within inventory that matches whatever the intended purpose was). As further proof, the new C stick measures EXACTLY at 6 for full, the same as the OEM stick (so in the end, you don't even have to change your stick to accurately measure 6 quarts...but if you are OCD like me and want the proper stick, you'll buy one...so Ford is making money, not losing it). How, exactly, is Ford saving money on dipsticks by clarifying a 6 quart capacity versus 7? If they would have clarified 7, they more than likely would have simply (quietly) left the F stick in the database instead of going with the C stick. When they added the F stick, they didn't buy one for ANY of us. Same with the C stick. There is something more to the puzzle because the only difference in the OEM and C stick is the height of the twist, which is completely above the max hole on both.
 
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broncorik

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Dammit! I was perfectly content with leaving the rear diff alone. Particles? I assume you meant on the fill plug but now I have to change it.
Yes fill plug...sorry...shortly after my purchase I had stuck a neodymium magnet on the bottom of the cover so as to capture anything metallic. Easy peasy change then it gave me an excuse to add this.

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That is just it...think about it...Ford is NOT saving any money on dipsticks by listing a new oil capacity. If anything, they are saving some anguish by not having everyone run to the dealer for an oil drain...hence the "running 7 won't hurt the engine" disclaimer...but they already changed stick iterations THREE times. With every change, it cost them nothing, because they didn't send out any of those sticks (they simply found sticks within inventory that matches whatever the intended purpose was). As further proof, the new C stick measures EXACTLY at 6 for full, the same as the OEM stick (so in the end, you don't even have to change your stick to accurately measure 6 quarts...but if you are OCD like me and want the proper stick, you'll buy one...so Ford is making money, not losing it). How, about exactly, is Ford saving money on dipsticks by clarifying a 6 quart capacity versus 7? If they would have clarified 7, they more than likely would have simply (quietly) left the F stick in the database instead of going with the C stick. When they added the F stick, they didn't buy one for ANY of us. Same with the C stick. There is something more to the puzzle because the only difference in the OEM and C stick is the height of the twist, which is completely above the max hole on both.
Gotta be honest, my eyes crossed half way through that post but, in my opinion, the engineers designed the Bronco 2.7 for 7 quarts. Ford got the dipstick wrong. The right thing for Ford to do is send owners the correct dipstick free of charge. That would cost them money.

The easy thing for Ford to do is change the manual to 6. Dipstick now measures correctly and everything goes away.
 
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Merc4x4

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Similar route...I had. Gwagen I loved but even a a mechanic and having a source to get parts at just above cost the final straw was when I needed to get a replacement headliner (because the clips that retained it to the sunroof frame broke during removal to get at the sunroof motor and linkage waaaay in the back) and almost fell over when I realized the headliner is 2000 dollars...and then I would have had to install it. The parts costs are nutty. I did love that the build quality was outstanding, however. The other thing is most people with a Gwagen cringe at the thought of hard wheeling because of the potential damage to a $$$$ vehicle. I also wanted to get more tire under mine but far too much of a PITA to source and install a proper lift without a bunch of other changes.
I just got some 40mm pucks from some forum dude to put under the springs. 275/75r18's fit without the spring spacers on my 2010, but the extra lift was nice (except for caster).

I was having the Mercedes dealer in Manhattan do all my maintenance. It was convenient, but $$$. I left it there for about a week after one visit. They finally offered to drop it off at my garage to get it out of there space. They had replaced the battery with a bad one and I had to do my own battery replacement in the garage. Thing is, the garage attendant said the battery was dead when they tried to put it away after the dealer dropped it off. They must have had to jump it to drive it to the garage!
I didn't mind forking over the $$$, but I expect better customer service when doing so.
When it started breaking a little and they couldn't fix it or made it worse, I started looking for a replacement truck.

I used to do all my own work when I was young and had no money, time, and a place to work. Now I have none of that and leave it up to the dealer.
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