Delivery Inspection To Do's (w/ Checklist)

[dcg2]

Was thinking the other day about what to look for / check on our new Broncos.

Things like panel gaps and fit and finish of interior anything un toward in the engine compartment. Doubling checking oil, coolant, etc...

Came across this concerning article. Never would have though to check underneath for corrosion!

https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.freep.com/amp/6817104002

Yikes!

Edit: updated link

Added a Checklist Document

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1GBJBOasngCocmhPc_a8JecuK9DM4sbsrmOdTFLsc3Cw/edit?usp=sharing

Feel free to make suggestions

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[Stroopaloop]

Can't read the article because I don't subscribe to DFP.

 

[Rayder]

Was thinking the other day about what to look for / check on our new Broncos.

Things like panel gaps and fit and finish of interior anything un toward in the engine compartment. Doubling checking oil, coolant, etc...

Came across this concerning article. Never would have though to check underneath for corrosion!

https://www.freep.com/story/money/c...-f-150-ford-rusty-axles-corrosion/6817104002/

Yikes!

Its cosmetic and happens to almost all vehicles shipped via car carriers in the winter.

 

[Raptor.Tremor.Bronco]

A must is to inspect for rail dust which is small brown/orange specs on the paint which lead to rust. But don't have the dealer fix it because they will destroy your paint in the process, take it to a professional detailer or do it yourself. To remove it you need a clay bar, some kind of lube like a quick detailer. That combo should remove it but I'd recommend trying an iron remover product as it will not scratch the paint like a clay bar will. After the clay bar you will likely need paint correction, the rail dust has been fairly common on ford vehicles, also paint overspray which leaves the paint feeling rough. That also needs to be clayed.

 

[Rednek]

Crap i'm gonna hate working at a dealership,us Bronco enthusiasts are picky!

 

[dcg2]

Its cosmetic and happens to almost all vehicles shipped via car carriers in the winter.

Those spring perch mounts do not look cosmetic to me! They look like they were stored in salt water for a week.

 

[dcg2]

A must is to inspect for rail dust which is small brown/orange specs on the paint which lead to rust. But don't have the dealer fix it because they will destroy your paint in the process, take it to a professional detailer or do it yourself. To remove it you need a clay bar, some kind of lube like a quick detailer. That combo should remove it but I'd recommend trying an iron remover product as it will not scratch the paint like a clay bar will. After the clay bar you will likely need paint correction, the rail dust has been fairly common on ford vehicles, also paint overspray which leaves the paint feeling rough. That also needs to be clayed.

Thanks for the tip! Any chance you could provide a picture of it to help us identify?

 

[Raptor.Tremor.Bronco]

Thanks for the tip! Any chance you could provide a picture of it to help us identify?

Here's what it would look like, it's much more visible on white vehicles

 

[Felix808]

Can't read the article because I don't subscribe to DFP.

Yep, apparently the Detroit Free Press isn't free.

 

[Desert_6G]

What I noticed or later missed when I ordered my Ranger. Body gaps obviously off. Air pressure way to high. No wiper fluid. Welding slag was painted over on body panels in 5 locations. Some other people found interior plastic parts had color defects.

 

[Rick Astley]

Since we're hitting the same topic multiple times today, i'll post the other thread:

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...cing-rust-corrosion-issues.13263/#post-484342

Once people actually start taking delivery then i'll post what the Ranger folks were doing, since their vehicles came from the same factory, one can reasonably assume some of their issues will translate to Bronco.

 

[Silver-Bolt]

Any obvious damage. Paint imperfections, panel gap. You can count on the undercarriage having a fair amount of rust. If they haven't made changes from the Raptor/F150's the rear axle housing is plain steel, front axles and flanges also plain. They rust like crazy. Make yourself a check list list and go over the Bronco top to bottom before leaving the lot. If you find damage after you leave good luck getting any help from the dealer or Ford. I typically start inside. Go over everything. Starting with the headliner/top. Work your way down to the floor. Make sure everything on the dash functions. When done inside start on the exterior. Again start on the top/roof and work your way underneath. Bring some coveralls.

 

[Bud2020]

Can't read the article because I don't subscribe to DFP.

The irony that you can't read an article for lack of a paid subscription from the dFp...

 

[Daktari]

actually would be good to create a checklist here on this site, something we can then all print out and take with us. I haven't bought a new car in 18 years, and while I have an idea about the more obvious things, I'm sure there are things I won't think of of will forget to check. Maybe pin the checklist to the top of the thread and it can get updated with new ideas and things to look for or test during the test drive. I'm not signing anything until I drove the thing around town and back on the freeway.
New Wranglers had crappy welds on the frame in the beginning, looked like the robot was drunk :-D

 

[Silver-Bolt]

From the Raptor site.

My dealership is going to get delivery of my truck in the next week. (fingers crossed) I have been going over threads and reading what to look for when taking delivery. First time taking ownership of a new vehicle.

Thing ive seen mentioned in other threads.

1. check paint for defects/scratches
2. check door alignments
3. check for excessive rust on underside
4. look for dents or other damage from transit
5. check oil level
6. adjust tire pressure to around 36-38psi
7. look over interior for defects
8. test drive it

-----edit with suggestions from posts
9. setup FORDPASS app.
10. make sure you have trailer assist stickers
11. inclusion of bed cleats
12. have dealer run OASIS report for possible body work history
13. ask if there was dealer lot damage that was not disclosed
14. avoid doing inspection during night or bad weather. wait for clear day
15. check all the fluid levels
16. inspect wires and harnesses that may be loose or fallen off.

is there anything else to look for? and if i discover issues the dealer is expected to correct everything?

Ive seen alot of people talk about IWE with the new builds is that still something to worry about? or is the corrected with more recent factory builds


anything else added in the thread ill add to the list. and hopefully this will be helpful to others.

You have this thoroughly covered. Thanks for that!

here’s a few suggestions. If it’s inclement weather or dark, WAVE OFF. do it another day. You won’t be able to inspect rain soaked paint for defects.

get pictures. every angle, more than one shot. wheels, bed, roof, undercarriage. engine compartment, all of it.

My truck was held for additional QA, over 100 miles on it but, they left me the “punch list”. I have a post on what it included. Ask if they have yours. it’s supposed to stay with the dealer and get tossed but it’s worth asking.

@Onboost has a good suggestion about oasis and asking about any damage in transport or on the lot.

Inspect for hoses, wiring harnesses that have come loose or are not fastened. we’ve had a couple of those bite folks on the drive home. Do all of this before you drive it, and check again after you drive it.

check your fluids, make sure they’re in spec. baseline your oil, brake fluid, etc. Unlikely you’ll have a problem but if you do, you’ll know what you had.

I had dial calipers with me (I’m a reloader) and I measured the gaps on the body panels. I didn’t know what was good or bad, but I could see they were even side to side and top to bottom, so I only measured the back doors closely because they had the more odd look to them - like they’re sticking out, not closing properly. but they are.

hat tip to @Chris Mies - all of the above could apply to a prius as well... but really, who would care if a prius were defective? One could argue that as they’re obstructing your path in the passing lane, they’re defective and that they attract as many moron operators as they emit Smug emissions.

anyway.

test drive. Please, please, please - if you ride, bring a helmet, bonus points if you bring one for the sales bot.

make sure to test at least the street drive modes and also the transfer case. Cane it. You don’t have to stay in it, but at least go WFO a few times, sport + 4a makes this more entertaining. if you got the moon roof, open / close it a few times before the drive, listen for rattles, squeaks, etc.

return from test drive and check over your truck again, check for any fluid leaks, clamps popped off, fasteners come loose. Another set of pics won’t hurt. There used to be a long running post titled something like “post all your 2017 raptor problems here”. I used that as a guideline. My pre-inspection was photos, hood and under truck inspection, just shy of an hour. test drive was what my wife referred to as juvenile, but the saleswoman was well used to it. it was similarly long. I was at the dealer just a tick before 5 pm, we didn’t start paperwork until about ... 8? and that was just trade stuff, and admin stuff they worked on while I got the inside tour of all the tech. that was about 30 minutes, papers was all said and done less than 40 minutes, we jawed some and split about 9:30 pm to go eat.

Make sure you have all keys, full tank of fuel 9you already paid for it), owners manual, etc.

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