Delivery Inspection To Do's (w/ Checklist)

[BEM-S4]

Here's what it would look like, it's much more visible on white vehicles

There are specific soap products that remove iron and help with that. Also specific soaps that give you a "clean slate" and remove any wax, polish, etc.. Then clay, compound (if needed), polish, glaze*, seal*, wax*. Or swap steps w/ * for ceramic if so inclined. So for example in the right order...

• https://www.chemicalguys.com/clean-slate-wax-stripping-wash/clean-slate-surface-cleanser.html
• https://www.griotsgarage.com/produc...62sDKGsp8VGdzqHxU8XVnhGM97TZT2-waAtH7EALw_wcB
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/clay-bar-and-luber-synthetic-lubricant-kit-light-duty/CLY_109.html
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/v36-an...-light-swirls-and-scratches/GAP_VKIT_101.html
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/wet-mirror-gloss-magnifying-glaze/wet-mirror-finish-glaze.html
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/jetseal-durable-sealant-and-paint-protectant/jetseal-sealant.html
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/butter-wet-wax-warm-and-deep-carnauba-shine/butter-wet-wax.html

I going higher end products than some of those on some of my cars, but that list is good for most things.

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[Raptor.Tremor.Bronco]

There are specific soap products that remove iron and help with that. Also specific soaps that give you a "clean slate" and remove any wax, polish, etc.. Then clay, compound (if needed), polish, glaze*, seal*, wax*. Or swap steps w/ * for ceramic if so inclined. So for example in the right order...

• https://www.chemicalguys.com/clean-slate-wax-stripping-wash/clean-slate-surface-cleanser.html
• https://www.griotsgarage.com/produc...62sDKGsp8VGdzqHxU8XVnhGM97TZT2-waAtH7EALw_wcB
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/clay-bar-and-luber-synthetic-lubricant-kit-light-duty/CLY_109.html
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/v36-an...-light-swirls-and-scratches/GAP_VKIT_101.html
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/wet-mirror-gloss-magnifying-glaze/wet-mirror-finish-glaze.html
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/jetseal-durable-sealant-and-paint-protectant/jetseal-sealant.html
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/butter-wet-wax-warm-and-deep-carnauba-shine/butter-wet-wax.html

I going higher end products than some of those on some of my cars, but that list is good for most things.

I've tried soaps but they are never enough to do anything for me, I don't want to overly agitate the paint

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

A must is to inspect for rail dust which is small brown/orange specs on the paint which lead to rust. But don't have the dealer fix it because they will destroy your paint in the process, take it to a professional detailer or do it yourself. To remove it you need a clay bar, some kind of lube like a quick detailer. That combo should remove it but I'd recommend trying an iron remover product as it will not scratch the paint like a clay bar will. After the clay bar you will likely need paint correction, the rail dust has been fairly common on ford vehicles, also paint overspray which leaves the paint feeling rough. That also needs to be clayed.

A full paint correction when the car is new is a smart first step, glad you pointed it out. Don't forget to first shampoo, then use the Iron X spray to release the metals, then clay bar, polish, and apply a sealant.

Nanoskin does a good job at not scratching paint in place of the clay bar, but clay never hurts, just takes a while.

Detail my own and became obsessed detailing these Bimmers!

 

[JHawk]

This request is not a high priority but if someone has time please explain paint correction, it is new to me

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

A full paint correction when the car is new is a smart first step, glad you pointed it out. Don't forget to first shampoo, then use the Iron X spray to release the metals, then clay bar, polish, and apply a sealant.

Nanoskin does a good job at not scratching paint in place of the clay bar, but clay never hurts, just takes a while.

Detail my own and became obsessed detailing these Bimmers!

There are specific soap products that remove iron and help with that. Also specific soaps that give you a "clean slate" and remove any wax, polish, etc.. Then clay, compound (if needed), polish, glaze*, seal*, wax*. Or swap steps w/ * for ceramic if so inclined. So for example in the right order...

• https://www.chemicalguys.com/clean-slate-wax-stripping-wash/clean-slate-surface-cleanser.html
• https://www.griotsgarage.com/produc...62sDKGsp8VGdzqHxU8XVnhGM97TZT2-waAtH7EALw_wcB
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/clay-bar-and-luber-synthetic-lubricant-kit-light-duty/CLY_109.html
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/v36-an...-light-swirls-and-scratches/GAP_VKIT_101.html
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/wet-mirror-gloss-magnifying-glaze/wet-mirror-finish-glaze.html
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/jetseal-durable-sealant-and-paint-protectant/jetseal-sealant.html
• https://www.chemicalguys.com/butter-wet-wax-warm-and-deep-carnauba-shine/butter-wet-wax.html

I going higher end products than some of those on some of my cars, but that list is good for most things.

For a full correction, I use Chemical Guys Citrus, but heavy concentrate to strip the car clean. My regular shampoo is Adams since the CG isn't PH Neutral.

Iron X , NanoSkin, then Menzerna is my Polish of choice, My Sealant is synthetic and Sonax; forget the actual name and don't feel like going out to garage to see; my apologies.

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

This request is not a high priority but if someone has time please explain paint correction, it is new to me

Even when new, there are a lot of crap on your paint even when fresh off the truck. A paint correction removes all of the ferrous metals from brake dust mostly, but also rust, rail dust (metal), as well as dirt, etc.

You can't usually see it immediately, but if you wash your car this weekend, dry it, then put a cheap plastic bag on your hand and run over the hood. You'll notice it'll catch even though the car looks clean; that's the ferrous metal from the streets.

I do a full correction twice a year and it takes all day per car. Using a quality car shampoo ($8) is much better than like dish soap. We detail nerds order stuff mostly online and don't allow anyone to touch our cars and no car washes at all.

We use microfiber towels from Amazon usually, and order everything.

After a good shampoo, I spray the car with Iron X to "remove the metal", then clay bar (it looks like clay, but is hard, but you can mold it, but must use a slick spray first then clay bar the car. After that, wash again, then time for a polish. There are different polishes based on the state of your paint. I use a dual action polisher, but can be done by hand, just hard.

Following a polish, then you can either use a Carnuba Wax, or a Paint Sealant, which is synthetic but is cheaper and lasts much longer, although doesn't look quite as deep and shiny to some people.

Anyway, this is a rabbit hole from hell, but becomes a pleasing obsession. I will only paint correct my Bronco once; when new, then it'll stay pretty dirty. However, I may do a correction each Spring since I plan to keep the truck, but will get it dirty as hell when wheeling and camping.

Visit Autogeek.net. This is where I shop, but it also has a ton of videos and other obsession worthy stuff to clean the glass, wheels, everything. There's even a wash/wax that is rinse less and really works, doesn't produce suds, but cleans and protects your paint. This stuff will twist your noodle. I do use it, it's green and I apply to all 3 buckets.

Yes, you use 3 buckets. Wash, rinse, wheels. Don't use the wheel bucket to wash your car (metals!). This is for when I shampoo or foam bathe the car. For that green stuff, just one bucket. These are Home Depot $5 buckets.

Anyway, welcome to crazy train!

 

[JHawk]

Even when new, there are a lot of crap on your paint even when fresh off the truck. A paint correction removes all of the ferrous metals from brake dust mostly, but also rust, rail dust (metal), as well as dirt, etc.

You can't usually see it immediately, but if you wash your car this weekend, dry it, then put a cheap plastic bag on your hand and run over the hood. You'll notice it'll catch even though the car looks clean; that's the ferrous metal from the streets.

I do a full correction twice a year and it takes all day per car. Using a quality car shampoo ($8) is much better than like dish soap. We detail nerds order stuff mostly online and don't allow anyone to touch our cars and no car washes at all.

We use microfiber towels from Amazon usually, and order everything.

After a good shampoo, I spray the car with Iron X to "remove the metal", then clay bar (it looks like clay, but is hard, but you can mold it, but must use a slick spray first then clay bar the car. After that, wash again, then time for a polish. There are different polishes based on the state of your paint. I use a dual action polisher, but can be done by hand, just hard.

Following a polish, then you can either use a Carnuba Wax, or a Paint Sealant, which is synthetic but is cheaper and lasts much longer, although doesn't look quite as deep and shiny to some people.

Anyway, this is a rabbit hole from hell, but becomes a pleasing obsession. I will only paint correct my Bronco once; when new, then it'll stay pretty dirty. However, I may do a correction each Spring since I plan to keep the truck, but will get it dirty as hell when wheeling and camping.

Visit Autogeek.net. This is where I shop, but it also has a ton of videos and other obsession worthy stuff to clean the glass, wheels, everything. There's even a wash/wax that is rinse less and really works, doesn't produce suds, but cleans and protects your paint. This stuff will twist your noodle. I do use it, it's green and I apply to all 3 buckets.

Yes, you use 3 buckets. Wash, rinse, wheels. Don't use the wheel bucket to wash your car (metals!). This is for when I shampoo or foam bathe the car. For that green stuff, just one bucket. These are Home Depot $5 buckets.

Anyway, welcome to crazy train!

Thank you, This is like drinking from a fire hydrant, much appreciated

Wow! It is a good thing my kids are grown and I have more time on my hands!
Looks like this old dog will be learning some new tricks.

 

[Hoofnmouth]

Could you imagine "check all hoses and wires" the whole hood is full of them !!

 

[JesseS]

I always do a PDI before I take delivery, when I bought my 100K motor home I had the delivery guy with me for 4 hours as I went over and under the rig. Ended up with a laundry list of corrections and repairs the dealer had to make before I paid him, he was not happy but I sure as heck didn't want to fix them all, or bring the rig back and have it turn into a hanger queen at the service dept. I will do the same for the Bronco but it won't take as long Much better to find and list any defects before you leave the lot than try to argue who was at fault later. I even had the dealer pay for my 3 day motel stay while waiting for him to do it right the second time. You can get a good PDI checklist online, just google it.

 

[HotdogThud]

This request is not a high priority but if someone has time please explain paint correction, it is new to me

start here: www.reddit.com/r/autodetailing
and have fun falling down this hole as well: https://www.youtube.com/user/AMMONYCdotcom

And not to start a holy war up in here, but avoid Chemical Guys stuff, it's kinda trash and their company is trash too.

 

[flip]

Ford pays us for the PDI which, sad to say, is not much more than tear the plastic off, maybe wash it and put it on the lot. The big catch for all of us is one, when a transport arrives during business hours there are people to do the check in and hopefully catch any missing things like second set of key, mats, antenna, any damage caused by the transport company and any visible damage from the factory. If you don't see it and have the driver note it on the bill of lading you (the dealer) are completely, utterly screwed. If they drop after business hours, like a weekend, you have 48 hours to report damage or misbuilt. Again, after that, you (the dealer) are hosed.

This PDI sheet is for a '19 Ranger but you can get the idea of how basic it is. Rail dust, paint is typically not as common of an issue as it was years ago and depends on if they put plastic wrap on the flat surfaces. PDI includes some claying, maybe a little buffing but if any more than that, it's on the dealer or warranty claim. Some of these things dealers have no control of for example non-painted parts with some surface rust or aluminum parts with that white chalky residue.

Most paint, metal, trim and glass issues require us to submit digital imaging to Ford and they make the call. I've seen stuff that should've been denied and stuff denied we felt were legit warrantable concerns.

While you are buying this from a dealer, we can't catch everything nor does FMC give us an open check book to replace a part you might find visually unacceptable. I understand the desire to want a new vehicle, you are paying premium $$ for, to be as flawless as possible. PLEASE understand some stuff you think is bad, Ford says is acceptable. We do our best but there are times our hands are tied.

 

[poconochris]

Make sure your tool kit is there.
Door bags
Body color filler pieces if you have a roof rack (the ones above the windshield)

 

[Mjtermini]

Was thinking the other day about what to look for / check on our new Broncos.

Things like panel gaps and fit and finish of interior anything un toward in the engine compartment. Doubling checking oil, coolant, etc...

Came across this concerning article. Never would have though to check underneath for corrosion!

https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.freep.com/amp/6817104002

Yikes!

Edit: updated link

Added a Checklist Document

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1GBJBOasngCocmhPc_a8JecuK9DM4sbsrmOdTFLsc3Cw/edit?usp=sharing

Feel free to make suggestions

This is a great checklist. Thanks for pulling it together.

 

[lilfergy]

Was thinking the other day about what to look for / check on our new Broncos.

Things like panel gaps and fit and finish of interior anything un toward in the engine compartment. Doubling checking oil, coolant, etc...

Came across this concerning article. Never would have though to check underneath for corrosion!

https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.freep.com/amp/6817104002

Yikes!

Edit: updated link

Added a Checklist Document

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1GBJBOasngCocmhPc_a8JecuK9DM4sbsrmOdTFLsc3Cw/edit?usp=sharing

Feel free to make suggestions

Need to add check air filter for animal damage if set on ice mountain!

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