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buzpro

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True but I would lose the ability to control them with controller, which was the main reason I wanted them. I also don't want them on all the time. This is just supplemental lighting when needed, hence the separate switch.
a little on the side - do you know if the interior courtesy lights especially for the cargo area have LED bulbs? they are so weak
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a little on the side - do you know if the interior courtesy lights especially for the cargo area have LED bulbs? they are so weak
I am not sure and your right, they are weak though. That's why I am going to wire in some additional strips in the cargo area that lights up the floor. Still trying to decide where to mount them though. Could put a set of lights under the roll bar but I wouldn't want them on while driving, just for loading so might require a differnt way to switch on and off.
 

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I am not sure and your right, they are weak though. That's why I am going to wire in some additional strips in the cargo area that lights up the floor. Still trying to decide where to mount them though. Could put a set of lights under the roll bar but I wouldn't want them on while driving, just for loading so might require a differnt way to switch on and off.
I think the easiest way would be to change those bulbs in the cargo area, both on the side and the roll bar.
If not, maybe you can mount it to the roll bar, facing towards the back and wire it to the lights right there, and have control from the switch in the front near the AUX switches.

@flip, anyway you can find out what type of bulbs are installed in the cargo area?
 
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I think the easiest way would be to change those bulbs in the cargo area, both on the side and the roll bar.
If not, maybe you can mount it to the roll bar, facing towards the back and wire it to the lights right there, and have control from the switch in the front near the AUX switches.

@flip, anyway you can find out what type of bulbs are installed in the cargo area?
Good point. Hopefully Flip can find out for us as that would be such an easy mod to do!
 

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Can we see a little bit more on where you routed the lights. Looks like you routed some light under the lip of dash where the infotainment screen is ? Havent seen that yet on the bronco
 

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No, the illuminated switches need to come on with vehicle power or they would stay on all the time so they are wired to #35, which is an extra fuse slot under the steering wheel. I am also using it for turning on my dash cam. The lights (really the controller) needs to have constant power or the controller would lose the presets so they are tied into #29 which is on all the time. The switch cuts power between the controller and the lightstrips.
I am adding the Interior LEDs for my build, please elaborate on "The switch cuts power between the controller and the lightstrips."
 
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I am adding the Interior LEDs for my build, please elaborate on "The switch cuts power between the controller and the lightstrips."
Ok....

Below is from the Oracle website for the Controller I bought (link in original post). Note the wires coming out of the bottome from the controller. To the left you have your positive and negative constant 12 volt power. That is wired to my Fuse #29 so that the controller receives constant power (and will not lose memroy). Note that even there diagram kind of subtlely indicates it must always have power to operate (they were very sneaky to not be misleading; sorry my pet peave). So you have the main constant power coming in from the left

Ford Bronco DIY - Adding Aftermarket Switches to Floor Console for LED Lights and Power Steps 1644979797813
 
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Can we see a little bit more on where you routed the lights. Looks like you routed some light under the lip of dash where the infotainment screen is ? Havent seen that yet on the bronco
It's simply that ridge/lip that runs thru the middle of the dash between the screen and HVAC panel and then extends to the left near the ignition and to the right where it splits the glove box from the upper dash. It's about the only place I think to really hide a strip of this size. I will try to take more closeup pics tomorrow if you like (you may have to remind me).
 

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I'm assuming your lighting switch was in series on the DC+12 line coming out of the right-most post. Is the voltage on that post a constant 12v when the lights are on, or does it decrease with some kind of dimming? And if constant, what is the voltage on the LED side of the switch when the controller tells the lights to be on but the switch is off? Do the pull-downs control current or neg-side voltage? I'd assume current, but if the latter (voltage) then there would be a concern about floating voltages leading to mixed-direction currents through different LED colors when your switch is open.

Also, can you please elaborate on what makes it hard to use an AUX switch for the lights? I thought some of them were floaters that you could connect to whatever... and if they are powered, couldn't they be connected to the lighting line that otherwise goes to DC+12?

I'm trying to follow along with the driving factors in your approach since I'll be putting those AUX switches to some uses too.
 

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I'm assuming your lighting switch was in series on the DC+12 line coming out of the right-most post. Is the voltage on that post a constant 12v when the lights are on, or does it decrease with some kind of dimming? And if constant, what is the voltage on the LED side of the switch when the controller tells the lights to be on but the switch is off? Do the pull-downs control current or neg-side voltage? I'd assume current, but if the latter (voltage) then there would be a concern about floating voltages leading to mixed-direction currents through different LED colors when your switch is open.

Also, can you please elaborate on what makes it hard to use an AUX switch for the lights? I thought some of them were floaters that you could connect to whatever... and if they are powered, couldn't they be connected to the lighting line that otherwise goes to DC+12?

I'm trying to follow along with the driving factors in your approach since I'll be putting those AUX switches to some uses too.
Your first paragraph might be better directed to Oracle. I would assume it is constant 12v and any voltage reductions for dimming are happening inside the control box but assuming seems to get me in trouble weekly!

The OP stated the controller requires constant 12V power to maintain its memory of any custom light configurations, colors, patterns, etc. that you create. Once you turn off the upfitter switch all 12V power is cut and the memory is lost. I know both the Raptor and the Bronco are the same...I assume all Ford upfitter configurations are not powered without the ignition in the on position or vehicle running. You would think I would be smarter but when I did the lights on both the Raptor and Bronco I finish all the connections, open door, turn on upfitter switch I wired to and expect the shop to light up and nothing. WTH? Oh, turn on ignition...grrr...walla light.
 

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The OP stated the controller requires constant 12V power to maintain its memory of any custom light configurations, colors, patterns, etc. that you create. Once you turn off the upfitter switch all 12V power is cut and the memory is lost.
Right, so you connect that directly to a fuse as he did. I worry about battery drain in that scenario, but whatever.

I know both the Raptor and the Bronco are the same...I assume all Ford upfitter configurations are not powered without the ignition in the on position or vehicle running. You would think I would be smarter but when I did the lights on both the Raptor and Bronco I finish all the connections, open door, turn on upfitter switch I wired to and expect the shop to light up and nothing. WTH? Oh, turn on ignition...grrr...walla light.
I was under the impression that some of the signal wires to the switches were powered (one end to 12V), and some were floating so that they could be used for whatever. I'll have to look into that further but now I get it - if the ignition/engine/car needs to be in ACC (or worse, ON) mode for those switches to be able to provide power, that's a bummer.
 
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Right, so you connect that directly to a fuse as he did. I worry about battery drain in that scenario, but whatever.

I was under the impression that some of the signal wires to the switches were powered (one end to 12V), and some were floating so that they could be used for whatever. I'll have to look into that further but now I get it - if the ignition/engine/car needs to be in ACC (or worse, ON) mode for those switches to be able to provide power, that's a bummer.
About your first sentence, that is a concern and I said as such in an earlier post. The controller does have an LED light that indicates it is on. However it would probably take days to kill a 12 volt battery with the controller being left on. I have left it on now for several days in a row without issue. But that is a valid concern that one would need to watch. Keep in mind that the controller can still be turned off they way Oracle designed it by using a button at the top left of the box (see pic in my last post). For those worried about that they should always cut off there.


Concerning 2nd paragraph. Yes that is a bummer. All of the aux switches are wired and prefused to only come on with the ACC. This is a good thing for many items that we may want to add, but it is not in this case.... I have heard of some folks going in there and reworking them but to me that was more work than adding the additional switches. I only have 3 aux switches left and already have plans what to add to them.
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