DIY B&O Speaker Replacement w/ Emphasis on 6" Kick Panel Speakers

[teevan]

Your photos are super helpful! Great post . . . you are going to be busy answering TONS of follow up questions.

By the way, Kilmat is great, I recommend that everyone who upgrades their stereos use it.

Maybe a dumb question, but is it worth putting in some kilmat even if you arent upgrading the speakers? I have the B&O speakers, and was going to see if that made a difference. But not sure if I should just replace the speakers while I have everything open...

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[mbagne]

Maybe a dumb question, but is it worth putting in some kilmat even if you arent upgrading the speakers? I have the B&O speakers, and was going to see if that made a difference. But not sure if I should just replace the speakers while I have everything open...

I have found that in past installations adding sound dampening (and I do like Kilmat) is an improvement. Factories don't want to fiddle or add the expense, but any aftermarket installation pro will tell you that dampening will improve your sound (ultimately it does depend on the specific car/door enclosures . . . with some systems the added dampening is a HUGE improvement while others less so . . . but in most cases I believe it is worth it). So in short, yes, keeping OE speakers but adding dampening would be an improvement, with the caveat that if your system has crap speakers like in the base offering (non B&O) dampening may not be worth the trouble. Poor speaker quality, overall weak power, narrow frequency response and reduced soundstage can't really be improved much without better components and more power.

From reading other forum threads I see folks who have upgraded the speakers in their B&O systems, commenting about the "cheap paper cones" they pulled out . . . so you might consider replacing some of the key speakers with higher-quality components if you are taking all the trouble to tear things apart for Kilmat. I suggest searching the forum, there are tons of threads that discuss speaker replacement (just be sure you stick with the ones that focus on the B&O, most of the threads address the base system).

 

[edgeflyer]

Has anyone confirmed the center speaker size?

 

[Ksjrb03]

Maybe a dumb question, but is it worth putting in some kilmat even if you arent upgrading the speakers? I have the B&O speakers, and was going to see if that made a difference. But not sure if I should just replace the speakers while I have everything open...

I would highly suggest a speaker swap for the B&O system. Huge difference. While your in there throw some Kilmat in the enclosure. Super simple and cheap. I can’t say how much of my improvement was the speaker vs Kilmat though, hard to quantify. But it’s cheap and a standard thing done with audio systems.

I also Kilmat the entire sub enclosure. Mainly targeting rattles which it definitely helped with. FYI the enclosure to body mounts were my main source of rattles.

Has anyone confirmed the center speaker size?

Yes it is a 4” the same as the other front speakers and rear pods.

 

[jbacchi70]

I just upgraded the rear pillar speakers and added some sound deadening. The upgrade was a noticeable improvement and worth the sub-$100 price tag. I’m now considering replacing the dash and kick panel speakers.

 

[Ksjrb03]

The rear pods and the center channel dash will be your biggest bang on B&O speaker upgrades, absolutely must upgrade the center channel, especially if you use surround mode. It is the workhorse speaker and it is the same cheap paper as those rear pods, and the base system speakers.

 

[BlueGhost]

Sound deadener on the inside of the rear quarters would likely help some. From the pictures I've seen with the rear interior panels off, there is minimal treatment from the factory.

I realize there is only so much you can do with a vehicle like this, but every vibration you can cut down on will quiet the ride. The more quiet the ride the less your stereo has to overcome. I would bet some mass loaded vinyl and/or closed cell foam on the back side of the interior panels would help cut tire noise also.

 

[teevan]

I ended up upgrading the center and the rear pods with some kicker 4 inch speakers. Definitely a huge difference in sound, and that is without spending crazy money on top of the line speakers.

If anyone needs a single speaker for a center channel let me know. Its a kicker csc4, can send it to someone for $30 plus shipping.

 

[Morningview]

Replaced my kick panel 6.5"s. I didn't have a mounting adapter, so I cannibalized the ford speakers and screwed my replacements into the original housing. I did not take the time to make it look pretty, but they are secure and sound great. This also allows you to retain the factory harnesses. I had to trim a bit off of the inside of the speaker grill, but this serves no purpose.

 

[Wjwarbritton]

I have found that in past installations adding sound dampening (and I do like Kilmat) is an improvement. Factories don't want to fiddle or add the expense, but any aftermarket installation pro will tell you that dampening will improve your sound (ultimately it does depend on the specific car/door enclosures . . . with some systems the added dampening is a HUGE improvement while others less so . . . but in most cases I believe it is worth it). So in short, yes, keeping OE speakers but adding dampening would be an improvement, with the caveat that if your system has crap speakers like in the base offering (non B&O) dampening may not be worth the trouble. Poor speaker quality, overall weak power, narrow frequency response and reduced soundstage can't really be improved much without better components and more power.

From reading other forum threads I see folks who have upgraded the speakers in their B&O systems, commenting about the "cheap paper cones" they pulled out . . . so you might consider replacing some of the key speakers with higher-quality components if you are taking all the trouble to tear things apart for Kilmat. I suggest searching the forum, there are tons of threads that discuss speaker replacement (just be sure you stick with the ones that focus on the B&O, most of the threads address the base system).

Well I have to disagree with most of this thread when dealing with the factory base system. I tried dynomat 80mil and it destroyed any base I had in the doors. I tried several different amounts of polyfill too and that killed all the volume. I tried covering all the openings up and making the kick pods a sealed enclosure and that was horrible. I tried an alpine 6.5 component speaker and it was awful. Yes I confirmed the polarity and found the factory sub to be the best alternative off head power left alone. It’s basically an open air sub and any attempt to mat or fill it caused the sun to rather bottom out or have zero volume.
With the speakers all rated at 25 watt I ordered Memphis audio 2 way 4” speakers 25rms 35peak an they made a massive improvement. No fill and no mat on the fronts made the best sound. These come with tweeter cross overs and I soldered in another set to block bass to the 4”. In the read since they don’t receive low frequency I just installed as they come. The rear pops do best with matting in them and offer great sound. With the bass set 2 clicks down from max Then can run my factory system max volume with no rattle or distortion and it’s very clear in comparison. Bass is a only mid bass at best but crisp.
I’ll be replacing the kickers factor subs with 6.5” actual subs and an amp. I’ll be foam sealing the kicker openings making them nearly sealed and with a good 6.5” driver off an amp, I’ll get the lower frequency I want. The kicker locations have more than enough volume to allow a driver to work correctly as soon a I find one with less than 3.25” mounting depth.

 

[mbagne]

Well I have to disagree with most of this thread when dealing with the factory base system. I tried dynomat 80mil and it destroyed any base I had in the doors. I tried several different amounts of polyfill too and that killed all the volume. I tried covering all the openings up and making the kick pods a sealed enclosure and that was horrible. I tried an alpine 6.5 component speaker and it was awful. Yes I confirmed the polarity and found the factory sub to be the best alternative off head power left alone. It’s basically an open air sub and any attempt to mat or fill it caused the sun to rather bottom out or have zero volume.
With the speakers all rated at 25 watt I ordered Memphis audio 2 way 4” speakers 25rms 35peak an they made a massive improvement. No fill and no mat on the fronts made the best sound. These come with tweeter cross overs and I soldered in another set to block bass to the 4”. In the read since they don’t receive low frequency I just installed as they come. The rear pops do best with matting in them and offer great sound. With the bass set 2 clicks down from max Then can run my factory system max volume with no rattle or distortion and it’s very clear in comparison. Bass is a only mid bass at best but crisp.
I’ll be replacing the kickers factor subs with 6.5” actual subs and an amp. I’ll be foam sealing the kicker openings making them nearly sealed and with a good 6.5” driver off an amp, I’ll get the lower frequency I want. The kicker locations have more than enough volume to allow a driver to work correctly as soon a I find one with less than 3.25” mounting depth.

Wow, you really sleuthed out some great issues, this is really helpful and I will take note when I finally get my Bronco. You have basically verified what I was hitting at, that all of this really depends on the particular door and compartment enclosures affecting the results of sound deadening, then of course component selection. I find that when reading all the posts of the various installation threads, we can begin to connect dots and end up with a variety of good options.

I will have the B&O to work with and I am positive I will be making upgrades. This forum is offering a lot of pre-information. Please post back after you finish your sub. Are you sold on staying with Kicker? I have not been that satisfied in the past with Kicker, but I see many posts where people really love this brand. Interesting you used Memphis, those are often a good option due to their attention to depth in their design, for easier installation, and they are always budget-friendly. I believe they still use paper cones, yet they are coax and should sound much better than the cheap-o paper cones in factory systems. If you are verifying they sound great in the Bronco it may be the way I go as well.

Thanks for your informative post . . .

 

[Thrash Metash]

Can we really fit a 6.5" kick panel speaker with just under a 3.25” mounting depth? That seems a bit large but I haven't checked yet.

 

[Jmax]

I had a consult today with an audio installer, but wait let me share this, I used to install 25 years ago but have not kept up on things over the years yet have an opinion and know enough to be dangerous. Okay back to the consult, I have B&O but I think they sound horrible. Previously adding a sub masks a lot of problems. So my thought was put in a sub, swap out all the speakers (thinking of focal or jl) and add another amp for the speakers, maybe add two 6.5 in box enclosure under the rear seats to be removed if needed. Well, the installer said he recommended I don’t change out the B&O. Decks and speakers and the system as a whole are designed to work together in the best way possible. If I change out the speakers it won’t sound right… well, I had him sit and listen to an imagine dragons song which he played around a lot with the sound. I think the mids sound VERY sloppy especially when the bass hits over the mids. He then said I would have to do an audio control if I replaced the speakers and it would become a very big project. Well at the end of the day, I am thinking I will install my 12 inch punch with amp, small old kenwood amp to power 6.5 focus I’m putting under the rear seats to see how that sounds. Am I stupid in this approach? Now I am rethinking changing out some or all of the B&O in hearing some of the speakers are cheap paper. Is this true? It sounds like folks are changing out a couple speakers at a time with the b&o system and are liking that they did even with low end speakers. I’m putting focal performance 165AC in the boxes under the seats. Can someone tell me more about these b&o speakers/system. Is he right that this will turn into a headache/big project? I expected to have an amp run all the interior but now after taking to him I am thinking. Are people just changing speakers and not doing anything different with wiring and amps for interior speakers? If so, what is the recommendations on watts, range, etc for the various speakers. What are the cheap paper b&o that should be replaced or could I get away with replacing the speakers without adding amps and all the other stuff? Help!

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