DIY Factory Tow Package using OEM parts with Forscan As-built Data (without error codes)

[DumbAzzGuard]

Thanks for the write up. We'll done. Now if I could just figure out what I just read. Hahaha

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[Erock]

Awesome write up. Thank you for sharing.

 

[gdp]

Great job. My first random thoughts...
I have no idea how you figured all that out
How the heck did you get parts when Ford can't put out Broncos with a tow package lol
There are people who have 2 broncos? 18 months and waiting for me, with a tow packag.

 

[Tornado_735]

I'm astounded because I was under the impression that the Bronco didn't come with a brake controller, only the hitch and the lamp wiring.

 

[Jimmiee]

Great write-up! I'm now wondering what the Tow Module actually does? It has a Theft Signal Wire, a Park Wire, and 2 CAN communication wires to the BCM. The Theft Signal could tell the BCM there's a trailer attached. As a result, this may disable the Theft chimes and do something to the rear camera. It could also kill the backup lights, just a SWAG. It may change Cruise Settings? Who knows? I guess most people with Factory Tow probably are not reading this thread, but if anyone is, please "Chime in" (pun intended)

 

[RoverDude]

I'm astounded because I was under the impression that the Bronco didn't come with a brake controller, only the hitch and the lamp wiring.

It does not come with a brake controller. But the connections for it plugged and play. There's a power connection in every bronco sitting capped off above the driver's right foot.
The switch /nob just has to be mounded somewhere. Instructions that come with the kit have the controller mounted in the passengers side and the knob mounted in the center console.
I think it looks good. Mounted in the light switch module.
P

 

[MileHighCitizen]

Thanks for doing this, it looks great.

Can anybody answer, It seems i only would need to do the Forscan stuff if i want charging capability in the trailer, correct? If I want to just tow around a small trailer for trash and what not, i don't need to do the Forscan adjustments and just need the lamp wiring, correct?

 

[Fonz54]

I wanted to have the factory hitch for my Bronco, but that was not an option. I have gotten all the parts separately and have a complete OEM solution for adding the factory tow package to my 4 door First Edition. I have everything installed and have been able to configure it in Forscan to have no error codes and everything works!

While I did take my time, it was relatively easy (aside from figuring out how panels pop off without breaking).

So here is my little write up, hope it helps others. This is the progression I did it, not necessarily the best order of operations. I am sure I missed some steps from memory and clearly didn’t take enough pictures.


Adding the Trailer Hitch Assembly:

Parts needed:
MB3Z19D520A (Ford Trailer Hitch Assembly)

Tools need:
10mm
13mm
15mm
18mm
Torque wrench

Tips / suggestions:
Towel / cardboard
An additional pair of hands (or 2)

The installation took me just under an hour solo. Instructions that come with the hitch are straight forward. The instruction leave out the unclipping (removal) of the wire connection on both sides of the bumper. (1) is for the backup sensors, the other (1) is for the license plate light.

• Remove (1) 13mm at the back other bumper in the wheel arch.
• Remove the bolts on the tow hook(s) 18mm

TIP: Open the tailgate first, then remove the (6) bolts that attach the bumper, while a drinking buddy holds the bumper in place / keeps it from falling on you.

• Remove the bumper placing it on towel, cardboard, or grass
• Install hitch and properly torque bolts
• Reverse the bumper removal (reinstall bolts and reconnect wiring)
• Stand back a gaze at your accomplishment!

Adding the Trailer Tow module

Parts needed:
M2DZ-19H332-A (Trailer tow module)
W520101-S442 (nuts to hold tailer module) (you need 3, 4 come in (1) package

Tools need:
10mm nut driver/socket etc.

Tips / suggestion:
Panel trim poppers (under $20 on amazon)


Remove rear driver side cargo trim panel

• There will (3) connectors sitting on a terminal block with wires
• Remove female connectors by pushing the tabs down. What is remaining is the male Connectors without pins
• Remove the remaining terminal block and discard (or save for the future, it's your trash)

TIP: Run one nut (the extra one) down on each of the 3 posts to help remove the paint on the thread before installing the tow module.


I would Highly advise to disconnect the battery prior to attaching the module.

• Install the Module with bracket attached.
• Plug in the (3) connectors to the Tow module.
• Reconnect battery.
• Check with Forscan to verify the system can see the module (you may need to start a new profile)
• Clear any error that may be caused from disconnecting the battery.

You will at this point have an error "2100 initialization Error" on the TRM in Forscan, This will be fixed later.

Leave panel off for additional step (running wire)

• Stand back a gaze at your accomplishment!

SIDE NOTE:
What / how this module works (my understanding)
Connector on left has can buss connection, a theft signal, and a ground
There are (2) fused hots: Fuse91 (40A) powers the unit - this is what creates the Left Signal, Right Signal, and Parking Lights Fuse107 (30A) feed goes to an internal relay and out on the orange wire (battery charger connection).
This trailer battery relay will not work until configured in Forscan (based on my experience).
All these outputs then run back up to the front wheel well on the driver side.
To save wire you, could pick-up some of those connections at the module (left, right, and battery changer) vs from the front of the vehicle

Adding The Ford Trailer Brake Controller

Parts needed:
VM2DZ-2C006-A (Ford Trailer Brake Controller / Redarc)
Dual lock Tape
Zip Ties
terminal rig for 12-gauge wire
shrink tubing

Tools:
8mm nut driver
12mm nut driver
Scissors
1/4 (double check size)
painter tape
pencil
3/8" washer (rubber)
de pinning tools

• Pull driver side lower panel out by pulling towards you from top, it swings down.
• Remove the exposed metal plate by removing the (2) 8mm screws out. (Metal plate is sharpish, so watch your fingers)
• Cut and attach the dual lock tape to back area of plate.
• Cut and attach dual lock tape to back of brake controller
• Attach wiring to controller, and controller to the plate.
• Attach the power cable/ connector to connector above the accelerator (there will be a cover on the existing connection)
• Zip Tie power wires out of way to prevent cable assembly from falling in the pedal area
• Reconnect plate with 1/2 wired controller
• Unplug and remove the light switch module
• Put painter tapes on unused area of light switch module (right side)
• Mark the center / (very slightly off center to the right side)

TIP: outline /trace around the trailer knob button where you what the knob to be, then drill the center of that location. With the entire module outside the vehicle (like on a work bench)

• Attach the switch with a 3/8" rubber washer (on back side) to add a little thickness and grip.
• Tighten with 12MM nut driver (when it stops turning its tight Hercules! It’s only made from plastic!)
• Reinstall light switch module, plug in light switch module.
• Plug in brake controller connector to switch you just added. Zip tie excess cable neat and close driver panel.
• Turn metal knob on brake controller fully counter close wise
• Install trailer switch button cover with 0 at top
• Turn until 5 is pointed at top (12 o clock position and trailer icon should be level with the horizon)

Note: The button will not light up consistently or not at all at this point. It requires a load (5-21w RESISTIVE load)

I did not see this in the included Ford’s material BUT: "The Tow-Pro™ Elite will check for shorts on the trailer wiring and a cold 55W bulb has an initial “inrush” current as it first warms up that exceeds the trip point, and the Tow-Pro™ Elite will see this as an intermittent wiring short. "

• Stand back a gaze at your accomplishment!

Adding the Ford trailer 7/4 pin plug and WIRING

Parts needed:
M2DZ-14A666-B (Ford trailer 7/4 pin plug with bracket)
WPT-1659 Ford trailer connector pigtail (Amazon)
(25') 16-gauge Gray GXL wire
(25') 16-gauge Yellow GXL wire
(25') 16-gauge Green GXL wire
(25') 14-gauge Blue GXL wire
(25') 14-gauge Brown GXL wire
(25') 14-gauge Orange GXL wire
(25') 12-gauge White GXL wire (you don't need that much probably only 10')
Tesa Wire loom tape
Zip Ties
Motorcraft TA-29 (silicone sealant)
Super 33 electrical tape
1/2" convoluted tubing


Aptiv terminals (From Mouser and Newark)
FEMALE 2.8MM TERM 14-16 AWG TIN (10762803-L)
FEMALE 1.5MM TERM 14-16 AWG TIN I order a WPT-1037 terminal kit (NOT PIGTAIL VERSION) as I could not get the 1.5mm terminals solo in stock anywhere online
FEMALE 2.8MM CBLE SLD 14/16 TERM (13627267-L)
Female 6.35MM SN Sealed Terminal (33351052)



Tools:
Wire stripers
Terminal Crimper (amazon)
various socket/nut driver (I didn't write them all down)
screwdriver
Panel / trim poppers
Terminal de pining tools / kit (Amazon ST5211) not great but got the job done
7/4 pint plug tester



Steps:

• Disconnect battery.
• Remove front drivers side fender flare and wheel well liner

Note: I didn't feel I needed to remove the tire but removing it will give more working room.

• Undo connector C201 by pulling the retaining tab back and pushing up on the connectors. (I use a small control screwdriver and wedged it between the tab and body of the connector, this step is all done by finger feel as you cannot see any of these tabs by sight. Reference the connectors taken off during the trailer tow module step)
• Undo the back of the female connector and carefully break off/ remove tabs for positions new wires are going (pins 15-19)
• Remove the front white terminal cover.
• Pull wire through back plastic retainer and gasket
• Strip and crimp wire and (5) female terminals (10762803) and push into place (confirm the correct orientation prior pushing it in / it will not set correctly upside down. This can be done by looking at the front of the connector and looking at the terminals position.
• Reassemble the connector
• Repeat steps for the other connector C105 but this time it's only position 40 and it a 1.5mm terminal. (From the WPT-1037 terminal kit)
• Back at the tow module, strip, and crimp the12-gauge white return/ ground wire (sliding on shrink tube prior) to a terminal ring.
• Use the same bolt as the ground lug that is connected above the tow module to connect your newly terminated white wire.

Note: This ground wire will be picked and ran with the other wires you terminated from the front (from C201 and C105) when those 6 wires pass the tow module / Ground terminal)


Note: At this point you should be able to test the wiring prior to running all the wires back to the rear. Until you configure Forscan properly everything should work except the battery charger (orange wire) (take a sneak peek at the Forscan setting below for proper configuration for 100% assurance)

As noted prior, you need to have the proper resistive load on the trailer brake to show proper operation.

• Snap connector back into holders
• After testing, tape and shape the wires and then run to/ through the rubber gasket in the engine bay / above driver left foot position.
• Use a razor / exacto knife to cut a small asterisk shaped hole through gasket/gromet. (Use wire harness tape on wire assembly)

TIP: Prior to running the wires into and through the vehicle, make a small templet for the wires by drilling (6) holes in a scrap piece of wood. Then pulling wire through this and taping a single wrap of tape about every 10”. It will keep wires neat, untwisted/ and keeping it shape, and much easier to work with.

• Zip tie wire assembly in engine bay neatly and seal hole in Rubber gasket with silicone
• Remove all the plastic side panels on the driver side front to the back to be able to run the wires.

NOTE: The front driver panel is also held in by (2) Nuts located under the left footrest. The top of that footrest does pop off with a trim popper. If not removed you will break the plastic when you try to remove the panel and must glue it back together (Been there, did that!)

• Run wire back to driver side rear brake light.
• Use harness tape where wire would be subjected to damage (tape the new wires in location where existing wires are also taped)
• I removed the existing zip ties and re zip tied after I had wires run out and down into bumper.
• Add white ground wire to your wire harness assembly when it passes the tow module / ground lug location.
• Remove drivers’ side rear brake light
• Cut a hole in the rubber gasket, run wire assembly though and seal with silicon once wires are out of gasket,
• From behind the brake lights area to the 7pin connector, cover / protect wires with convoluted tubing that is wrapped with electrical tape.
• Secure tubing to bumper with zip ties.
• Run wire / tubing to the location the WPT-1659 (7-pin) connector will rest.
• Using a depinning tool remove the front cover.
• De-pin (1) existing terminal, carefully prying and removing existing boot seal.
• Reuse the old boot seal on the new wire(s) you ran; strip and crimp to the correct size terminal. (White wire / ground is the 6.35mm, all 6 others are 2.8mm in size)
• Repeat for all 6 remaining terminals and reattach front cover.
• Attach connector to 7/4 pin connector, and fasten bolt to hitch/ receiver.
• Reattach everything you removed (taillight and driver side trim panels) and clean up mess
• Reconnect Battery.

Forscan Changes

Below is a list of changes I made based on comparing multiple Bronco’s as built data that had the factory installed hitch.

The Table below shows the final values I used.
Red Data is what I changed it to.
Orange is just the checksum value. (last 2 values)

When I change JUST the TRM data to the values as shown, that cleared up the 2100 initialization error in Forscan AND enable the battery charger relay to work in the TRM module.

Because I installed the TRM module, the prior values shown are just how it was programmed when I installed it.
This data is based on comparison of other vehicles as built data where the only difference was the hitch. It works for me, use at your own risk!!

Hopefully this will help someone.

Quick question. I have a 2022 Badlands with a hitch and electrical hookup at the hitch. What I din not have is that slick little knob to the right of the light switch. The Bronco I have is not the Bronco I ordered. It was a customer cancellation that I picked up because I figured a bird in the hand as the saying goes. I wonder if they changed something between 2021 and 2022.

 

[Fonz54]

Quick question. I have a 2022 Badlands with a hitch and electrical hookup at the hitch. What I din not have is that slick little knob to the right of the light switch. The Bronco I have is not the Bronco I ordered. It was a customer cancellation that I picked up because I figured a bird in the hand as the saying goes. I wonder if they changed something between 2021 and 2022.

I was just looking at the window sticker and it has listed under optional equipment "Towing Capability", to the tune of $595.00 smackers.

 

[RoverDude]

Quick question. I have a 2022 Badlands with a hitch and electrical hookup at the hitch. What I din not have is that slick little knob to the right of the light switch. The Bronco I have is not the Bronco I ordered. It was a customer cancellation that I picked up because I figured a bird in the hand as the saying goes. I wonder if they changed something between 2021 and 2022.

That is the (Ford Trailer Brake Controller made by Redarc)
part# VM2DZ-2C006-A
That is where I installed the control knob. It comes with a template and instructions to install it in the center console. It doesn't look right there, in my opinion.

Like others have done, I drove the hole and mounted the control knob in the light switch control module . It looks like it belongs there part of the light switch.

 

[Fonz54]

That is the (Ford Trailer Brake Controller made by Redarc)
part# VM2DZ-2C006-A
That is where I installed the control knob. It comes with a template and instructions to install it in the center console. It doesn't look right there, in my opinion.

Like others have done, I drove the hole and mounted the control knob in the light switch control module . It looks like it belongs there part of the light switch.

Ah Thanks, that clears that up. Now I am going to work on solving World Peace.

 

[TXscooterguy]

I'm going to be installing a Curt 4-pin wiring harness (56471) on my Black Diamond. Curt now has a separate 4-pin harnesses for Broncos with LED taillights and non-LED taillights. The Black Diamond has halogen taillights so it needs the non-LED harness. The installation instructions call for running a 12 volt wire all the way from the battery to the rear of the vehicle where the control module will be mounted. I was told I could get 12 volts from one of these cargo compartment connectors and avoid the long wire run. One of the grey connectors has two blue wires coming out of it. By chance do you know if this could be used as a 12 volt power source? Thanks for a great write up.

 

[RoverDude]

I'm going to be installing a Curt 4-pin wiring harness (56471) on my Black Diamond. Curt now has a separate 4-pin harnesses for Broncos with LED taillights and non-LED taillights. The Black Diamond has halogen taillights so it needs the non-LED harness. The installation instructions call for running a 12 volt wire all the way from the battery to the rear of the vehicle where the control module will be mounted. I was told I could get 12 volts from one of these cargo compartment connectors and avoid the long wire run. One of the grey connectors has two blue wires coming out of it. By chance do you know if this could be used as a 12 volt power source? Thanks for a great write up.

Like I mentioned,
There are (2) fused hots: Fuse91 (40A) powers the unit - this is what creates the Left Signal, Right Signal, and Parking Lights Fuse107 (30A) feed goes to an internal relay and out on the orange wire (battery charger connection).

Those are the 2 blue wires in the 1 Connector. They both are hot all the time I believe. You could verify which is which by pulling one of the fuses, and then seeing which one's hot still. I believe the left wire is fused at 30 amps, but only 51% sure.

Those fuses are in the engine compartment next to the battery. Need needle nose or a fuse puller to remove. They are small in size.

Hope that helps

 

[TXscooterguy]

Like I mentioned,
There are (2) fused hots: Fuse91 (40A) powers the unit - this is what creates the Left Signal, Right Signal, and Parking Lights Fuse107 (30A) feed goes to an internal relay and out on the orange wire (battery charger connection).

Those are the 2 blue wires in the 1 Connector. They both are hot all the time I believe. You could verify which is which by pulling one of the fuses, and then seeing which one's hot still. I believe the left wire is fused at 30 amps, but only 51% sure.

Those fuses are in the engine compartment next to the battery. Need needle nose or a fuse puller to remove. They are small in size.

Hope that helps

Thank you sir.

 

[NVCowboy]

Watching. Thank you!!

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