DIY Install for Blackvue 900 Dashcam with Real-Time Updates and Radar Detector

[Panzer948]

You should add a second camera for monitoring the first camera, in case someone breaks in and steals it

or you can buy this....

Sponsored

 

[Panzer948]

nice details. I wonder if there is a clean way to tap into the Lux package USB on the dash if those are always powered instead of going all the way to the fuse box. Now to start looking for BlackFriday/CyberMonday deals on the BlackVue...

I originally didn't want to go to the fuse box for my power and thought hard about getting power from mirror, aux switches, overhead console, etc. But after seeing a few posts on how easy it was to run wires down the A pillar to fuse box area, it was a no brainer. This was one of the easiest cars I have added wiring too.

 

[Panzer948]

If the default 6m rear camera cable isn't long enough, here's a 10m version:

https://www.amazon.com/DR530W-2CH-D...1IWBR60U/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B01IWBR60U&th=1

So, might be worth running the 10m cable to begin with if the rear window is the ultimate target, and tucking away the excess.

EDIT: I don't actually see the BlackVue DR900X-2CH Plus listed as compatible with this cable on the Amazon listing. Can't imagine it's not, but have asked the question on the Amazon page. However, the Blackvue site shows 1.5m, 6m, 10m, 15m and 20m rear camera cables that are compatible.

EDIT: OK, someone answered on Amazon that they use this cable in their Nissan van, but, again, lots of choices on the Blackvue site.

Excellent find as I didn't know how easy it is to pick up other sizes. Good stuff to share. I imagine that for most cars and trucks the default one is long enough since the rear window is always right behind a rear seat. But for wiring even a mid size SUVs, vans, etc, this 10m cable (or more) would be needed.

 

[Panzer948]

awesome post, was thinking about doing this and your details and wiring and access instructions were very helpful. I have a wifi hotspot through my wireless carrier, in the settings is there a way to hook up the dashcams through the hotspot or is it propriety to buy the LTE box from blackvue?

Yes, you can set it up to use up to three hotspots. For example, it is supposed to default to my home wife when parked within range (i.e. driveway or garage). In addition, the LTE Module is a fairly recent accessory. Before this was available, people were adding their own wifi hotspots that could stay on the full time. I think Blackvue simply saw a lost opportunity to add a simpler solution that is powered by the camera and uses the same app for settings etc.

BTW, if you don't mind getting HD quality, they also have a camera where the sim card can be added directly (so no separate box). It's called the 750X LTE (see below). I thought very hard about getting this model instead. They biggest downfall (besides no 4K) is that is larger than the 900 series (by quite a bit actually).

 

[tjnoffy]

Good point about eventually running to hardtop rear glass. I may eventually be in same boat. But I forsee another problem, atleast for this model. The cable is maxed out to the center of the rollbar so we may need a different solution to make it to rear glass. I know Blackvue makes a separate rear camera for trucks. Need to look into that further when off work.

Also good point about C pillar, also worth checking out when I get home!

Thanks for recognition!

So what did you think about the C pillar idea? Run cable through the bottom of the panel and up the back behind the seat belt and air bag?

 

[Panzer948]

So what did you think about the C pillar idea? Run cable through the bottom of the panel and up the back behind the seat belt and air bag?

Sorry, I haven't looked at that idea yet as that will take some time! May check it out this weekend. I am to busy reading about all the other cool mods/ideas that I haven't done yet . Reading up on Forscan now. I hope you understand.

 

[TrippR]

del is the CM100LTE module that works with thi

Thank you Panzer948 for taking the time to provide us all with such a detailed review. I should also state that this is one heck of a description of the wiring! This will come in very handy for me as I do want to hard wire in my escort radar detector/cam. Kudos...

Thank you @Panzer948 for the great writeup! This, along with @Theherofails integration of the same camera makes this much easier for all of us to visualize, and makes for a great reference.

One question I have is how visible the Blackvue is to the outside of the Bronco? Would you mind sending a photo from the front showing how you've tucked the front cam up by the mirror?

Much thanks again-

 

[Panzer948]

Thank you @Panzer948 for the great writeup! This, along with @Theherofails integration of the same camera makes this much easier for all of us to visualize, and makes for a great reference.

One question I have is how visible the Blackvue is to the outside of the Bronco? Would you mind sending a photo from the front showing how you've tucked the front cam up by the mirror?

Much thanks again-

Sure, I will try to take some phone pics tomorrow when I park at work. Actually, on Friday I am planning on taking off early to get some real decent pics of the whole car using my SLR with what is remaining of our fall foliage in the background. It's about time for a new car photoshoot. Those should also give a good idea from a real world perspective.

 

[Octaveus]

Very nice detail. Will be going for the same build soon. Cheers.

 

[Bad_Bronco]

That is correct. This dashcam has a parking mode function so needs power 24/7.

I know Thinkware cameras have a discharge that will stop when they get low, as mine does. I have the U1000 dual that I installed on mine a couple weeks ago, along with the Radar that will extend parking mode. I also put in a extra back up battery for parking mode (when I am away longer), so I know for sure, that it doesn't draw from my main battery. I researched and found this to be the best back up battery. it fits nicely under the dash on the drivers side.
https://www.blackboxmycar.ca/products/blackboxmycar-powercell-8-dash-cam-battery-pack
With this battery and my Radar attached to the Dash cam, it will last a week in parking mode.

 

[802Bronco]

Thought I would do a detailed write up of how a dual dashcam and radar detector install went over the past couple of days. I actually responded with some thoughts on similar posts, but thought to include my own experience with a few pics I took. I assume many are like me and haven't seen many vids or even pics of some of the dash panels being removed, so maybe this will help (if not too long...).

First of all I need to describe what I am installing since it will impact what panels one will need to tear into (J/K). For the dashcam, I opted for a BlackVue DR900X-2CH Plus with the CM100LTE module. The camera is 4K front/1080 Rear and was recently re-released with better image quality. However, the biggest factor in getting this model is the CM100LTE module that works with this unit. TheCM100LTE takes a SIM card, similar to what you would buy for a tablet data plan only. I went with TMobile since I already have an account with them for our phones and their plan is better than the competitor (AT&T). Basically free data for $10/month. With this setup, not only do I have full time driving coverage, front and rear, but also 24 hour parking mode surveillance where it monitors impacts and even movement and will send you real time alerts with the option to view in real time, similar to the Nest/Ring camera setups for homes. Might be a little overkill but I have owned a soft-top Jeep for years and have had plenty of things stolen from it. With this setup, not only will I likely record who did it, but possibly catch them before to late.

As I posted in another thread, I am not adding a separate battery bank since this model has voltage protection built in. This means that it monitors the battery voltage during parking mode and will cut off if the car voltage drops below an assigned number. I think most recommend 11.8 volts. I have been using a similar system in another car and have never had an issue as most will run for a day or more before dropping to that level. You can also have it turn off after a set amount of time (I selected off at 11.9 volts or 48 hours, whichever is first). A battery bank is a good idea if your leaving your Bronco alone for several days, but I will have it back in a garage each night and should not be unattended for more than a day.

I am mounting a Valentine 1 Gen 2 Radar Detector, which I already own for another car. I plan to swap them between both vehicles so wanted a more permanent mount that is still easy to disconnect. I opted for a "BlendMount" which attaches to your mirror. Radar Detector Power will be thru a mirror tap while the dash cam will require both a 12 volt constant source (for parking mode) and Acc on wire for regular driving mode (allows dashcam to also know what mode to operate in). The CME100 Module is to be installed to the top corner of the windshield and is powered by the dash cam. Not a big fan of it going there but that is what they recommend.

Mirrortap stuff first. For the dimming powered mirror, you can tap into both the ACC positive on (with ignition) and ground wire using one of the following: https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Det...ics&sprefix=mirror+tap,electronics,201&sr=1-9

This comes with 3 different sizes, with the other end being a RJ11 plug that connects to most radar detectors. The smaller of the three works best. You now have two spares for your other car (or future car The electrical connector plug in back of the mirror is easily pulled loose by pushing on the bottom tab and pulling toward the windshield. From there you should be able to push the thinner mirror tap leads, with + going to the white wire hole and the ground going to the black/blue stripe wire hole (see close up below). I would use a 12 volt test gauge to be sure since it could vary by model.

Finally, the pic on far right is the mount itself, which could vary by radar detector. Very nice professional mount that isn't going anywhere when hitting the trails (unlike your standard suction cup mount). They also make an accessory to mount the dash cam but I decided to mount it closer to top. https://blendmount.com/aluminum-rad...tine-one-gen1-gen2-standard-series-bv1-2001r/

Next up is running all the wiring connections to the front dash cam. To get 12 volts full time and 12 volts only with ignition, I did like a few others and tapped into the fuse box below the steering wheel where you will find a column of Micro2 fuses on the left. You can pick-up a very affordable set from Amazon for around $7. I used the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZV4LY54/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I

I selected Fuse #29 for Full time power and Fuse #35 for ignition only. According to the manual, they are both spares, so even better. Below is a pic after I tapped into #29. #35 is near the bottom on the same left row. I added a bullet type connector for the connecting green wire using heat shrink (did this for all connections so will not repeat). Now time to run both wires to the top windshield, which I found easier than I thought.

I knew the A Pillar would be a breeze as you can easily push it back between the glass and plastic with very little prying. However, I wanted to get it up to the A pillar site unseen. I decided to remove the Bronco Grab handle to get access to the area just above the fuse box (see pic below).

From there, it was easy to push a wire up through one of the openings to the bottom edge of the A pillar along the dash and then toward the windshield. A plastic dash pry tool comes in handy here.

From there it was up the backside of the A-pillar (closest to windshield) to the top of the windshield where it meets the plastic headliner. Believe it or not, this step was rather aggravating. The wires were to lose along most of the top, but near the sun visor mount, it was to tight which means they kept falling down. Pic below shows a tab you pull down on the sun visor holder. Underneath that is a torx screw that easily comes out. After I removed that, the wires you see below can be tucked in. Upon tightening it, they stay in place and are no longer visible.

I actually ran on extra wire during this process in case the mirror tap idea for the radar detector didn't work out, thus I ended up with access wires to hide. The black box right of the mirror (holding the vehicles camera) makes a convenient place to tuck all these extra wires and was a final destination spot before I mounted the dashcam. You have to tug on it to pop it lose. You will also need to tuck the wires coming from the headline edge to around the edge of the upper console. This is tighter so that plastic pry tool comes in handy there.

The CME100 Module that now holds the new data sim card was mounted on the opposite side of the windshield (top right corner) so it can bug my passenger. It's wire travels back to the dash cam, thus I tucked it's wire the same way I did the power wires on the driver side. Any access wire is actually stored in the passenger side A-Pillar.

Now for the long wire that must go from the dash cam to the rear camera. I decided to mount the rear camera on the roll bar. What is nice about this model is that I can easily rotate the rear camera to face the rear window or the front passenger area. I may do the latter if parking around crowds with the top down. Anyway, this was actually my biggest unknown as I have not seen many pics or discussions on how others have gotten wires back there. For the most part it went well with the rear camera wire following the headliner and A Pillar path already described for the power wires. From there, I basically pulled back the door trim panel closest to the fuse box to push the wire thru to the floor trim panel (which is easily removed with no tools). The 1st pic below shows this door frame trim panel (apologize if not the proper name) only partially pulled back which allowed me to easily fish the wire down toward the center floor trim piece.

Similar to the front floor trim piece, the back seat floor trim piece is easily removed. I was able to fish the wire to the back without removing the middle B-Pillar trim panels (area directly left and beneath front seat) by going along the inner edge and pushing wire beneath the trim. The plastic trim between the fender and rear seat is also easily pulled back to tuck the wire. To go vertical up the next pillar toward the roll bar, you simply pull back the rubber weather stripping, as shown below, and push the wires out of site. Be sure and place weather strip back in origional place.

Now we reach the spot I am least happy with. There is an airbag between this vertical pillar and the rollbar. That piece is not easily removed, and for good reason since you would not want a wire interfeeing with deployment. Thus, this is the only place where the wire ends up being visible, although it fits nicely in between the two sections before easily entering the bottom plastic panel that covers the roll bar. I may still look for a different solution in the area when I have more time since it is exposed and to be honest, I would rather not have it so close to the airbag area.

There is a panel behind the rollbar (not shown in pics) that is very loose; thus you can easily get a wire in there and run it along the back side of the plastic trim to the rollbar. I opted to place my rear camera in that middle channel in the back of the roll bar so the wire would mostly be hidden to passengers.

Below are final pics after install. This was taken at night so harder to see details. Dashcam in upper left windshield, Radar Detector on mount connected to mirror, and finally SIM Card Module with data plan at far right corner.

Here is the app doing its thing while at work.... all in real time.

Thanks. Now there is another Item I didn't know I wanted, and now I want it.

Thought I would do a detailed write up of how a dual dashcam and radar detector install went over the past couple of days. I actually responded with some thoughts on similar posts, but thought to include my own experience with a few pics I took. I assume many are like me and haven't seen many vids or even pics of some of the dash panels being removed, so maybe this will help (if not too long...).

First of all I need to describe what I am installing since it will impact what panels one will need to tear into (J/K). For the dashcam, I opted for a BlackVue DR900X-2CH Plus with the CM100LTE module. The camera is 4K front/1080 Rear and was recently re-released with better image quality. However, the biggest factor in getting this model is the CM100LTE module that works with this unit. TheCM100LTE takes a SIM card, similar to what you would buy for a tablet data plan only. I went with TMobile since I already have an account with them for our phones and their plan is better than the competitor (AT&T). Basically free data for $10/month. With this setup, not only do I have full time driving coverage, front and rear, but also 24 hour parking mode surveillance where it monitors impacts and even movement and will send you real time alerts with the option to view in real time, similar to the Nest/Ring camera setups for homes. Might be a little overkill but I have owned a soft-top Jeep for years and have had plenty of things stolen from it. With this setup, not only will I likely record who did it, but possibly catch them before to late.

As I posted in another thread, I am not adding a separate battery bank since this model has voltage protection built in. This means that it monitors the battery voltage during parking mode and will cut off if the car voltage drops below an assigned number. I think most recommend 11.8 volts. I have been using a similar system in another car and have never had an issue as most will run for a day or more before dropping to that level. You can also have it turn off after a set amount of time (I selected off at 11.9 volts or 48 hours, whichever is first). A battery bank is a good idea if your leaving your Bronco alone for several days, but I will have it back in a garage each night and should not be unattended for more than a day.

I am mounting a Valentine 1 Gen 2 Radar Detector, which I already own for another car. I plan to swap them between both vehicles so wanted a more permanent mount that is still easy to disconnect. I opted for a "BlendMount" which attaches to your mirror. Radar Detector Power will be thru a mirror tap while the dash cam will require both a 12 volt constant source (for parking mode) and Acc on wire for regular driving mode (allows dashcam to also know what mode to operate in). The CME100 Module is to be installed to the top corner of the windshield and is powered by the dash cam. Not a big fan of it going there but that is what they recommend.

Mirrortap stuff first. For the dimming powered mirror, you can tap into both the ACC positive on (with ignition) and ground wire using one of the following: https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Det...ics&sprefix=mirror+tap,electronics,201&sr=1-9

This comes with 3 different sizes, with the other end being a RJ11 plug that connects to most radar detectors. The smaller of the three works best. You now have two spares for your other car (or future car The electrical connector plug in back of the mirror is easily pulled loose by pushing on the bottom tab and pulling toward the windshield. From there you should be able to push the thinner mirror tap leads, with + going to the white wire hole and the ground going to the black/blue stripe wire hole (see close up below). I would use a 12 volt test gauge to be sure since it could vary by model.

Finally, the pic on far right is the mount itself, which could vary by radar detector. Very nice professional mount that isn't going anywhere when hitting the trails (unlike your standard suction cup mount). They also make an accessory to mount the dash cam but I decided to mount it closer to top. https://blendmount.com/aluminum-rad...tine-one-gen1-gen2-standard-series-bv1-2001r/

Next up is running all the wiring connections to the front dash cam. To get 12 volts full time and 12 volts only with ignition, I did like a few others and tapped into the fuse box below the steering wheel where you will find a column of Micro2 fuses on the left. You can pick-up a very affordable set from Amazon for around $7. I used the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZV4LY54/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I

I selected Fuse #29 for Full time power and Fuse #35 for ignition only. According to the manual, they are both spares, so even better. Below is a pic after I tapped into #29. #35 is near the bottom on the same left row. I added a bullet type connector for the connecting green wire using heat shrink (did this for all connections so will not repeat). Now time to run both wires to the top windshield, which I found easier than I thought.

I knew the A Pillar would be a breeze as you can easily push it back between the glass and plastic with very little prying. However, I wanted to get it up to the A pillar site unseen. I decided to remove the Bronco Grab handle to get access to the area just above the fuse box (see pic below).

From there, it was easy to push a wire up through one of the openings to the bottom edge of the A pillar along the dash and then toward the windshield. A plastic dash pry tool comes in handy here.

From there it was up the backside of the A-pillar (closest to windshield) to the top of the windshield where it meets the plastic headliner. Believe it or not, this step was rather aggravating. The wires were to lose along most of the top, but near the sun visor mount, it was to tight which means they kept falling down. Pic below shows a tab you pull down on the sun visor holder. Underneath that is a torx screw that easily comes out. After I removed that, the wires you see below can be tucked in. Upon tightening it, they stay in place and are no longer visible.

I actually ran on extra wire during this process in case the mirror tap idea for the radar detector didn't work out, thus I ended up with access wires to hide. The black box right of the mirror (holding the vehicles camera) makes a convenient place to tuck all these extra wires and was a final destination spot before I mounted the dashcam. You have to tug on it to pop it lose. You will also need to tuck the wires coming from the headline edge to around the edge of the upper console. This is tighter so that plastic pry tool comes in handy there.

The CME100 Module that now holds the new data sim card was mounted on the opposite side of the windshield (top right corner) so it can bug my passenger. It's wire travels back to the dash cam, thus I tucked it's wire the same way I did the power wires on the driver side. Any access wire is actually stored in the passenger side A-Pillar.

Now for the long wire that must go from the dash cam to the rear camera. I decided to mount the rear camera on the roll bar. What is nice about this model is that I can easily rotate the rear camera to face the rear window or the front passenger area. I may do the latter if parking around crowds with the top down. Anyway, this was actually my biggest unknown as I have not seen many pics or discussions on how others have gotten wires back there. For the most part it went well with the rear camera wire following the headliner and A Pillar path already described for the power wires. From there, I basically pulled back the door trim panel closest to the fuse box to push the wire thru to the floor trim panel (which is easily removed with no tools). The 1st pic below shows this door frame trim panel (apologize if not the proper name) only partially pulled back which allowed me to easily fish the wire down toward the center floor trim piece.

Similar to the front floor trim piece, the back seat floor trim piece is easily removed. I was able to fish the wire to the back without removing the middle B-Pillar trim panels (area directly left and beneath front seat) by going along the inner edge and pushing wire beneath the trim. The plastic trim between the fender and rear seat is also easily pulled back to tuck the wire. To go vertical up the next pillar toward the roll bar, you simply pull back the rubber weather stripping, as shown below, and push the wires out of site. Be sure and place weather strip back in origional place.

Now we reach the spot I am least happy with. There is an airbag between this vertical pillar and the rollbar. That piece is not easily removed, and for good reason since you would not want a wire interfeeing with deployment. Thus, this is the only place where the wire ends up being visible, although it fits nicely in between the two sections before easily entering the bottom plastic panel that covers the roll bar. I may still look for a different solution in the area when I have more time since it is exposed and to be honest, I would rather not have it so close to the airbag area.

There is a panel behind the rollbar (not shown in pics) that is very loose; thus you can easily get a wire in there and run it along the back side of the plastic trim to the rollbar. I opted to place my rear camera in that middle channel in the back of the roll bar so the wire would mostly be hidden to passengers.

Below are final pics after install. This was taken at night so harder to see details. Dashcam in upper left windshield, Radar Detector on mount connected to mirror, and finally SIM Card Module with data plan at far right corner.

Here is the app doing its thing while at work.... all in real time.

Thanks. Now there is another accessory I didn't know I needed and now want. My wife's truck will be parked at the ski area she works at and people are careless with car doors and where they lean their skis. How about coming up for a weekend of skiing on us and installing one in her truck!!!

 

[Panzer948]

Interesting sounds like a pretty good plan to me! It did take some time but I should be faster on the next install

 

[cricex]

Like the set up, but not sure I want BlackVue Cloud to have all of my footage. Would be great if you could define where to upload cloud.

 

[Panzer948]

Interesting sounds like a pretty good plan to me! It did take some time but I should be faster on the next install

Like the set up, but not sure I want BlackVue Cloud to have all of my footage. Would be great if you could define where to upload cloud.

Good point as I don't blame you. Matter of fact you do have that control. Most of the video stays on the memory card in the camera. In the settings you can have it upload only impacts to the cloud or not... The notifications are only thumbnails. If you want the true video you can then select it in the app and it will upload to the cloud for you to download to your phone or computer, or you can pull the memory card out of the camera and plug that into your computer. I also think you can be within a few feet of the camera and download thru bluetooth to your phone but I haven't tried that. In other words, if you want, the cloud can really be used for notifications only.

I hope you guys don't think I am a sponsor for this product as I am just an owner that wants to keep track of what's happening with our property while away. When researching dash cams, I easily came to the conclusion that the higher end Blackvue Cameras had the best Cloudview service and since real time notifications were my most important feature, it was an easy choice. If my only criteria was the best image quality, I may have gone with Thinkware since I already have an older model in a 6 year old car and I think the video quality in that is a little better.

I have to give a shout out to a Youtuber that helped me tremendously with my dashcam research (and radar detector) . It's VortexRadar at https://www.youtube.com/c/VortexRadar I recommend checking out some of his posts as they are very thorough and he is up front with how he got his products.

 

[Panzer948]

Also, I will say this product isn't perfect either. It does sometimes disconnect and the initial setup wasn't easy. Matter of fact, the first couple of days I didn't think the cloud feature was working right and was about to send it back. However, Blackvue had great customer service and was able to fix my problem during a call (yes they answered the phone with little wait), which ended up being in my wifi settings. Like I said, set-up for me was not intuitive and was frustrating at times but once it was corrected, it has worked nearly flawlessly.

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